Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length.

[Pointy]

Don't have any fuses, just the supressors on the motors. All I have are two old M3 sonik Escs, lots of thick wiring, big wire connector blocks from Halfords, a Y lead connecting the ESc to the reciever. When I leave the Escs out of it and connect the paralledl batteries straight up to the motors they work. Its something to do with the Escs and connections to the reciever.

When I got the Prinz the wiring diagram was simple, a single speed controller and two batteries. Never had to do anything like this before, I have no soldering skills but have been so carefull wiring stuff up, nothing is loose or exposed, even used insulating tape over connectors. Very wary of this digital Speckrum setup- thinking of taking it back again.

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

Don't have any fuses, just the supressors on the motors. All I have are two old M3 sonik Escs, lots of thick wiring, big wire connector blocks from Halfords, a Y lead connecting the ESc to the reciever. When I leave the Escs out of it and connect the paralledl batteries straight up to the motors they work. Its something to do with the Escs and connections to the reciever.

Hi Pointy

First thing to do is fit fuses. The second thing to do is fit fuses.

Fit a low starter fuse in the feed to the ESC  (only use one at the moment .... till we get it right)  About 3 amp should be enough

Fit ANOTHER 3 amp fuse from the ESC to the motor.

Test it on the bench

If it works, substitute the second ESC and try again

Connect up both ESC's and repeat the test.

Report back here as you have a town hall full of people on the edge of their seats.

 

ken

[FullLeatherJacket]

http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/pdfs/Jamara%20Titanic%20-%20Robert%20Bolton.pdf

Similar but can be adapted.

Works for Mr B and his mate Mr W.  Check your regular E-Mail, Pointy.

[Pointy]

Don't have a means of taking pics and posting  Thank you everyone who is trying to help, this is such a wonderful forum- it really shines when someone needs help!
Not at the giving up stage just yet but did something rash which I'm kicking myself for. Need to walk away from it for a bit or can see myself jumping up and down on it.

[OMK]

Don't lose any sleep regarding them diodes in my previous post. Common concensus seems to be that it's perfectly okay to go without.
For what it's worth, I have noticed on at least a couple occasions where the gel-cells were acting up , then the problems went away with the diodes in circuit. If you eyeball the sketch in FLJ's last post you can see the diodes I'm talking of (marked as 2 x 20A Schottkys). It's up to you to decide to go with them, but don't break into a sweat if you think it may be more hassle than it's worth to use them.
I guess all this is a moot point - not really helping you with your present situation.
Listen, I noticed you don't have a means of putting up a photo. Does that mean you are without a digital camera? Don't take this the wrong way, but I have a spare camera doing nothing. It's a Cannon 7.1 mega-pixel job - not the best in the world, but pretty nifty for day-to-day general use. It's yours if you think it'll help any.

Hang in there, don't give up just yet. Keep pumping as much info. as you can - someone here is bound to hit the magical solution at some point. A photo or two, or even a simple sketch of your present lash-up, sure would help with a possible prognosis/diagnosis.
In the meantime, walk away from it for a while. Pour yourself a beer, sleep on it, wake up with a fresh mind.
Holler if you need fuses.

[Pointy]

Thanks for your very generous offer PMK but just can't accept without paying you for it and have no other reason for a camera right now- but thanks again.

The saga continues. I hate the radio, the Spektrum Dx5e so took it back to the shop. They refused to exchange it/refund as it was not their policy if it had been used. The guy did look at it as I insisted there must be something wrong with it. He reckons they are fool proof so he was quick to get it out to power it up and bind it- but he couldn't get it work either. Asked him for a futuba but no one makes the crystal types anymore so the futaba he had was digital and £100 on top of what I paid for the Spektrum
Anyway have taken back the Spektrum and he has given me a new receiver for it which he bound and proved was working with the radio in the shop. To tell the truth I think I probably did something to the reciever. Had two old Ecs connected by a Y lead to it- sure they must have done something to it.

The model has 3 600 speed type motors, can I get away with only using 2 batteries? Why do I have to bust a gut with all this 4 battery business- if its only for the sake of ballast?! Would it be safer and less problematic or is it a matter of only having a very short time on the water with that set up? The batteries are 6v,4ah.

Not touching anything and will start from scratch again I think.

[OMK]

No sweat regarding the camera. Didn't mean to fob my junk on you.
Glad to hear your radio system is now working at least. Just heed and digest the sage advise already given - you'll get there... if not already.

Ghost: You and Seaspray are the only two member to use Morse on your signatures.
I'm intrigued... what is yours saying?

[jimtrellis]

also off Action, just order 3 regular ESC's with your radio you don't need a mixer, your radio already has one.  out the outer two esc's onto the Right-hand stick and scroll through the mixing, I think its either V-Tail or Elevon you need.  Put the Rudder and centre motor onto the Left Stick.  for slow manouvring below steerage speed, use the right stick to control the motors.  you can then cruise on the centre motor, allowing you extended run times in the water, the drag on the props is negligible, I used to run the Yamato like that until I figured out how the mixing worked. 

I have a Spektrum DX5e like Pointy's but I can't seem to find where the mixer function is. You seem to know a lot about these things so can you point me in the right direction, please?
Also, if it's fine to wire up batteries in parallel then why do PMK and FLJ say you shouldn't do it? PMK has a website with all sorts of electronics on it and FLJ runs a business making things for boats. Are they both wrong?
If so, can I connect a 6v in parallel with a 12v battery to get more running time?

[malcolmfrary]

If so, can I connect a 6v in parallel with a 12v battery to get more running time?

NO!
This is a near perfect example of why folks like FLJ who make a living selling electronic gear always give the safest possible instructions. 
If you connect a 6 volt battery in parallel with a 12 volt battery you will NOT get a long run time. 
You WILL get a short loud bang, some burnt wiring, probably bits of battery and the corrosive contents scattered about, and probably embedded in your person, and a total lack of eyebrows.
Any batteries connected in parallel must be the same actual voltage.

[John W E]

hi ya there Pointy

Have you had your P94 repaired by FLJ?

It will only cost the postage plus a minimal amount - we aren't talking megabucks I am sure of that.

Once you have it repaired; it is the ideal candidate for your model - do not be frightened of it!   May I suggest, although this Forum is brilliant for advice AND THERE IS A LOT OF GOOD ADVICE ON IT sometimes it can become a hindrance - all of the advice - because a person who is seeking the advice doesn't have the knowledge to filter out what he needs.   This is not a fault, its a human trait. 

May I make this last suggestion, you pick someone like FLJ - and seek advice solely from him - to guide you through the set up and installation of the electronics into the model.

I would say this isnt putting a bloob on any of the advice which has been given, its just helping the gentleman seek the correct advice and help 

aye
john e
bluebird

[wideawake]

I have a Spektrum DX5e like Pointy's but I can't seem to find where the mixer function is. You seem to know a lot about these things so can you point me in the right direction, please?

the mix switch on the DX5e is the right hand one of the bank of slide switches on the front panel.   It is limited in function.  To quote from the manual  "The DX5e offers an Elevon mix. Elevon (also called delta wing) mixing combines the function of ailerons with the function of the elevator to allow precise control of both roll and pitch for delta wing aircraft. To activate the Elevon mix, move the mix switch to the on (up) position."    That's it!

The Dx5e is an excellent basic set but lacks the flexibility of the more expensive 2.4GHz sets.

HTH

Guy

[Pointy]

This is what access is like, from a pic I took before I started work on the model.
Its approx 240mm by 90mm, this is the largest access point, there are 2 others both much smaller.

http://s825.photobucket.com/albums/zz175/pointy_photos/?action=view&current=33630010.jpg

[jimtrellis]

OOPS!  For left read right!
Guy

Many thanks, Guy. I think I'd probably buy the Action mixer if I ever needed to do this; the instructions look like they were written with boats in mind, not aeroplanes!

[wideawake]

Many thanks, Guy. I think I'd probably buy the Action mixer if I ever needed to do this; the instructions look like they were written with boats in mind, not aeroplanes!

Good choice I think Jim.  WRT the instructions, sadly this aeroplane bias applies to almost all radio sets, presumably because they represent by far the greater number of sales.

Cheers

Guy

[funtimefrankie]

the mix switch on the DX5e is the left hand one of the bank of slide switches on the front panel.   It is limited in function.  To quote from the manual  "The DX5e offers an Elevon mix. Elevon (also called delta wing) mixing combines the function of ailerons with the function of the elevator to allow precise control of both roll and pitch for delta wing aircraft. To activate the Elevon mix, move the mix switch to the on (up) position."    That's it!
Guy

What does that mean in boat terms? What do the ailerons /elevators equate to? the motor or rudder

[Ghost in the shell]

What does that mean in boat terms? What do the ailerons /elevators equate to? the motor or rudder

usually used with dual motor set ups.
stick command "full elevator down" = ALL AHEAD FULL
stick command "full elevator up = ALL ASTERN FULL
stick command "roll left" = "motor spin turn to the left" - port engine astern, starboard engine ahead
stick command "roll right" = "motor spin turn to the right - Starboard engine astern, port engine ahead.

result as demonstrated on my Southampton, using my Futaba 6EXA radio.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cok0wJTJVLE
notice MTRONIKS viper esc's and NO mixer.  its all done on the radio.

[funtimefrankie]

Sorry not quite with it, please bear with me......

Mines a 6EXP

Channel  1 (right stick L&R) is the rudder(s)
channel  2 (right stick up & Down) is one esc  right motor(?)
channel  3 (left   stick up & down) is the other esc left motor(?)
   
channel 4 (Left stick L&R)   attached to  ?????

The elevon mixing is set to ch 1&2 or is it V-tail  ch 2 & 4

[Ghost in the shell]

If it helps you, I have put my Radio in Mode2 NOT mode3.

then turned on ELEVON mixng.  Rudder is on CH4

ch1- no1 motor
ch2 - no2 motor

ch4- rudder 

[funtimefrankie]

Thanks... I'll give it a try soon.

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

    Sooooper Demo, Ghostie.   

Thank you for explaining it so clearly   

Cheers

Ken

[Pointy]

Have orderd new electronics from Dave at Action who has been brilliant and patient. Going to go for 2 batteries only for power, one of those Shorkydorky things that stop back charging, a p92 distribution board, a new p94, (don't ask what happend to the old damaged one  ) and a speed controller for the 3rd motor a switch and some quality wire.  Won't need seperate batteries for the receiver so thats good news. Will need to build it up in stages which I hope Dave will remind me of as I've forgotten already.
Going to get my very own wiring diagram  
Waiting for parts so will continue improving look of the model in the mean time. Not that it needs much more of this.
Yes I'm spending even more on the electronics- I've gone this far so might as well make this model all that it could be on the water.
Annoyed about the awful access to this models interior and the poor wiring directions in the graupner instructions- thought it would be a simple matter.
Do you think I should ballast it in water first with just batteries inside?
Heck I've no idea yet if it leaks!

[FullLeatherJacket]

Going to get my very own wiring diagram  

http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/pdfs/Graupner%20Scharnhorst%20-%20Alex%20Benis.pdf

[Ghost in the shell]

Do you think I should ballast it in water first with just batteries inside?
Heck I've no idea yet if it leaks!

1/ get batteries
2/ fill bath with water till it gets to the depth of the waterline + an inch
3/ put batteries in boat to set on desired waterline
4/ put in lead strips or tyre weights to trim her out.

during this, observe inside to see if the wetstuff that belongs outside enters the hull

[Pointy]

Sharnhorst is now in the care of her uncle Bob 

[Pointy]

The Sharnhorst saga continues.....

Shipmate60 has done a wonderful job on her and I now have a rather cool mixer, power distribution board, sholkydolky thingy and a seperate speed controller for 3rd motor. The port motor seems more reluctant than the others- something to tight somewhere? Needs more throttle than the other two to turn. It was good to know that I wasn't the only one who felt access to the interior is ridiculous, will only be running on 2 batteries, the motors draw quite a lot of ampage but still hope to get an hour and a half running time? Have to experiment. Still haven't got her bottom wet so no idea if it leaks let alone ballasted it yet.

Did have a big scare, the model has a thin layer of wood veneer covering its plastic deck. The model was left overnight in cool conditions in a garage, it had been raining outside so the atmosphere was damp. Well the deck had bubbled up and warped So here we have a £800 plus model, (not including electronics) who's deck is not even treated properly-  I mean didn't the people who made this thing figure the deck would see WATER at some point?!  
Rushed it home (How I HATE the M3!) and played a hairdryer over the deck and this worked, I now have a flat deck again. Going to get some Ronseal matt and coat the blinking decks. This is going to be very tricky as there are many parts I can not remove as I would rip the wretched veneer deck. Does it seem reasonable that I have to do this after buying such an expensive model sold as "Almost Ready To Run"?