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[RickF]

Has anyone used James Lane 1:48 stanchions?  You know, the "split" and bent over ones. I need quite a few for Torpedo Boat 80 and his are about the cheapest - but are they any good?

Rick

[Shipmate60]

In a word YES.
I use them all the time.
I drill the holes in the hull or superstructure, trim the stanchions about an inch longer than the deck, assuming they will fit inside the hull/superstructure.
Push fit into the holes, if its a straight run fit the rails afterwards, if a bent or complex shape bend the rails to fit first and slide on to the stanchions.
When stanchions push fitted to the holes and guardrails fitted I use a jig for the height and ensure they are upright then solder every joint.
It sounds time consuming but it isn't.
This produces a very strong unit and as all my holes aren't drilled exactly square I dint fix in permanently, the friction between stanchion and deck holds them in firmly.
I have had these rails bent over at 90 degrees before and pulled them out and straightened them.
I also use a liquid flux to ensure the solder flows inside the stanchion without leaving an unsightly "blob".
I have used this method down to 1/12 scale and it works fine.

Bob

[RickF]

Thanks Bob, useful information.

I see you use solder. Have you tried them without, or with CA? James Lane himself appears to recommend just painting them to hold everything together.

Rick

[Shipmate60]

Rick,
I just prefer the belt and braces approach.
I have seen them superglued and they look fine, I just work to the worst scenario, and this method has worked for me so I continue to use it.

Bob

[RickF]

Thanks again, Bob.

Rick

[John W E]

hI YA

yes, Ive used James Lane's stanchions a lot of times like Shipmate 60 and when you first receive them you think they are quite flimsy but if you do what Shipmate 60 suggests and solder them, they become a strong substantial item - just as an afterthought, I know and have spoken to him - and one time getting him to talk about his model-building past and his experience would fill this Forum with hints and tips - but, one of the things he said was that when he used to build models for the Shipowners - one of the things he used todo was make a duplicate deck out of spare plywood exactly the same shape as the particular one on the model and assemble all  railings on this deck or cabin first to iron out any mistooks or mistakes even and then transfer the railings or the fittings over to the model when he was happy with them.

Ive tried the above method - and  though its time consuming , its very beneficial.

Aye
JOHN E
BLUEBIRD

[Holmsey]

I have used James Lane's 1/96 stanchions on my two ships and they are superb. I asked him to do me some special 5 rail stanchions and he obliged at no extra cost.
He needs to be added to the good customer service thread.

Holmsey

[justboatonic]

In connection with this and soldering, I use electrician's solder which contains flux in the core on Drumbeat's railing and stanchions.

However, Im not entirely satisfied with the results. Can someone suggest other solder and separate flux to use and more importantly, where to get it from!

Thanks!

[Shipmate60]

I use liquid Bakers Fluid, It allows the solder to flow, and if you dont put too much solder on the iron when painted you cant see it.
If there is a blob just add more flux, wipe the iron and it will flow back on the iron.

Bob

[RickF]

Thanks for all the info, Guys. I've just sent off an order for 100 stanchions.

Rick

[bosun]

 Hy Guys any chance of an address for the stanchions,
Cheers
Bosun

[Holmsey]

James Lane (Display Models)
30 Broadway
Blyth
Northumberland
NE24 2PP

Telephone: 01670 352051

The turnaround is about 2 weeks so give yourself a bit of time!

Holmsey

[gary r uk]

Dicky D
you was right here it is wot a silly billy o is
gary rowe