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[Bunkerbarge]

TAG, If you do not have the luxury of an additional boss as I have on my own tank then perhaps a "T" peice before the outlet valve would allow you to connect your pressure gauge without having to remove and replace the pressure gauge on the Ronson valve. 

I have a particular dislike of Ronson valves so use an alternative method of filling however I completely agree that i want to know what is going on in the gas tank so a pressure gauge is very handy.  I have also fitted a heat shunt between the seperator tank and the gas tank to prevent the gas tank cooling and since this picture I have cut the shunt into two parts so I can have 1/3rd of the effect, 2/3rd of the effect or the complete shunt in place depending on the ambient temperature.

[Canopus]

On my model of Canopus, 1899 Victorian Battleship powered by a Cheddar Puffin unit I just have the condenser/separator fitted so it just touches the end of the gas tank to provide some gentle heating. After half an hour run the tank is never more than just warm to the touch, but to be fair as my installation is totally enclosed I may not suffer the same kinds of issues others do with tanks exposed to the elements. I have done this for about 5 years and never had any issues albeit I never fill the gas tank right up due to the dangers of hydraulic lock.

The first time i tried this in the test tank (bath) there was indeed a feedback as the burner increased in pressure so more heat so more pressure etc but it rapidly stabilised at a realistic level and provided the constant burn I was looking for.

Hope this helps

Geoff

[mrsgoggins]

TAG,
Thank you for the follow up comments on your Model Engineer circuit and for developing such a useful piece of kit.
I have done my best to shroud the probe but the results are not encouraging - probably because of the local geometry.
The additional timer sounds attractive. I had thought of tripping one via a microswitch on the bypass valve servo but your idea is less complex. I may well PM you.

[TAG]

Thanks for the comments on measuring gas tank pressures. This is my first venture into using a tank. Up to now I have been using gas canisters in my steamboats. I have been modelling at 12th scale but my boats are getting heavier and heavier with age. I am scratch building a 24th scale TID tug but getting the steam plant in has got quite challenging.The gas tank is close to the burner and fitted to a subdeck in the bows, pictures attached. The gas tank "plugs" into the sub deck and has underneath it's base a slotted copper heat shunt. The fixings are spring loaded so the shunt can be slid up to or retracted from the back of the burner. I think that a pressure gauge is essential when warming gas but as I was strapped for space and bushes I ended up using an adaptor to attach the gauge to the tank after filling. I agree with bunkerbarge I do not like the Roson valves.

On the subject of the Model Boats water level detector I built one which worked ok but was worried about the long term effects of dc current passing through the water and possible plating/erosion of bushes in the boiler etc. My unit uses ac to avoid these problems.