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[Patrick Henry]

I'll try and borrow my neighbours scales tomorrow and weigh it...

[tobyker]

Having built one myself, I'd say you don't want all the weight too low: you want it to heel out of the corner so that the sharp fwd chine digs in, and the round bilge aft can skid round to give fast tight turns. If you want to see the proper bottom shape for these things look at the gallery on Canadian-airboats.com.

[Patrick Henry]

Will do...thanks for that.

[Big Ada]

Even better...I never thought there would be this level of interest in airboats, it's quite surprising. What cells do you have in that second one, Len?


Rich

7.2v 3300 nicads.

[Big Ada]

Getting worried now...what sort of all up weight should I be looking at?


Rich

Dont get hung up on weight, if its heavy enough its an Air Boat if its too light its a PLANE!!

[Big Ada]

I would never entrust a servo to the open air. Plus water will most likely find its way down the sides and into the hull.

Anyone got plans for an airboat big enough for a 23cc Zenoah?

These Airboat dont get that wet so servos in mine are ok and in the small one the drivers arm works with the turn of the servo.

Re plan, If it looks right it is, mine I made up as I went along.

[boatmadman]

I have had no problem with the servo set up on the deck, mind you, I sealed everything with silicone sealant.

Re plan for a zenoah, just scale up existing dimensions until it looks right, and as Big Ada says, it will be right! These things arent critical.

One of our club members turned his over and drove it back to the shore upside down, it was ok once dried out.

Ian

[andyn]

I doubt that'll work with something that needs air to work

I've had this Zen aero engine sitting staring at me for some time now. It'll need a new carb and prop assembly, but they're cheap enough. Problem is I'll need to make the hull stable enough to fit the engine high enough to swing a 17" prop...

[Patrick Henry]

Thanks guys, much appreciated...I'll crack on with mine later, trying to get Enterprise operational and into full battle readiness for tomorrow.


Rich

[Patrick Henry]

It's not necessary to put the radio gear in a watertight box, is it? My hatch cover will be taped down and will sit on an internal coaming, so it should as waterproof as possible...I notice a lot of you guys haven't used a separate box.


Rich

[Patrick Henry]

Airboat so far...

[andyn]

You'll be needing one of these:

http://www.overlander.co.uk/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=2439&category_id=188&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53&vmcchk=1&Itemid=53

[Patrick Henry]

Thanks Andy...good man.

[PMK]

It's not necessary to put the radio gear in a watertight box, is it?

Rich, not absolutely, no. But I have seen good examples of watertight boxes fabricated from Tupperwear containers and suchlike (read dirt cheap) if you find that your ship is indeed taking on water.
Or, for the sake of a couple quid, pop down to your local electrical supplier (CEF, Wilks, etc) and try one of their plastic enclosures, preferably one with an IP rating suitable for all weather conditions, such as this, perhaps...

http://www.cefonline.co.uk/catalogue/product/11934/43562/plastic_enclosure_150x110x70

Good luck with the build. It's looking pretty damn sleek thus far.

[derekwarner]

  U33...from the photographs I see you drink Nescafe 43 Beans coffee.....   ...but what brand of margarine do you have on toast?  ...Derek

[boatmadman]

Rich,

I think you may need a bigger rudder than that, mine is about the same length as the prop diameter. Not sure if its a characteristic with these things or if mine just does it, but it turns much better in one direction than the other, probably due to the prop rotation direction?

Ian

[Patrick Henry]

Rich, not absolutely, no. But I have seen good examples of watertight boxes fabricated from Tupperwear containers and suchlike (read dirt cheap) if you find that your ship is indeed taking on water.
Or, for the sake of a couple quid, pop down to your local electrical supplier (CEF, Wilks, etc) and try one of their plastic enclosures, preferably one with an IP rating suitable for all weather conditions, such as this, perhaps...

http://www.cefonline.co.uk/catalogue/product/11934/43562/plastic_enclosure_150x110x70

Good luck with the build. It's looking pretty damn sleek thus far.

Thanks PMK old chum...our workshop uses those self same boxes for putting electronic 'stuff' in on the back end of a dustcart, so I'll be checking the stores for a supply of those on Monday morning...

U33...from the photographs I see you drink Nescafe 43 Beans coffee.....   ...but what brand of margarine do you have on toast?  ...Derek

Derek, you jump to the wrong conclusion...the coffee jar contains the genuine USN paint for the Enterprise, but I admit to buying Flora for my toast(other brands are available...) 

Rich,

I think you may need a bigger rudder than that, mine is about the same length as the prop diameter. Not sure if its a characteristic with these things or if mine just does it, but it turns much better in one direction than the other, probably due to the prop rotation direction? Ian

Ok Ian, thanks for the timely warning, the blade on this one is only held on with tape at the mo, just so as I could get a picture of what goes where. I think Andyn said the prop he's sending me is a 6"x4", so I'll make up a bigger rudder today.

Thank you gentlemen, very informative replies...


Rich

[Patrick Henry]

Another question chaps, if you please...what's favourite and why, pusher prop or puller prop set up?


Rich

[Circlip]

Another box to look at Rich are the ones sold for foodstuffs and have a snap down flap on each of the four sides. They also have a silicone rubber O-ring as a seal under the lid.

 As far as prop type, mechanically a puller is also a pusher? But it's better to mount it so that the airflow is directed backwards OVER the air rudders. If it's mounted in front of the motor, it also assists in cooling.

   Regards  Ian.

[Patrick Henry]

I have one of those boxes Ian, tried it earlier...it's about 1/2" too flippin' deep!!   

Right, got the point about prop mounting, thanks for that.


Rich

[andyn]

Another question chaps, if you please...what's favourite and why, pusher prop or puller prop?

Puller, as Ian has said you get cooling, but also with the prop adaptor its less likely to undo itself and sling the prop.

[hollowhornbear]

Hate to say this but a pusher prop is not a puller (tractor prop to give it it's real name) you can use a trctor prop as a pusher by putting it on backwards but it won't be as efficeint as a true pusher prop, just ask any flyer.
Having said that airboats are great fun we run a couple at our lake in guildford, and sometimes their very hairy!

[Patrick Henry]

Look, you're confusing me now!  Put it in English...prop facing the bows, or prop facing the stern? 

[hollowhornbear]

presuming your using a standard aircraft prop (tractor) facing the bows would be best, and as has been said will also cool the motor.

[Patrick Henry]

Cheers me dear...that's a bit of luck then, 'cos that's the way I'd set the motor mount up!