Topic: Yamato jinks8 (Read 23499 times)

jinks8 · « **Reply #50 on:** December 13, 2010, 12:54:35 am »

Build packs 17/18 has arrived and I think we have a problem 2 packets with the same parts IE 2 Bow Fairlead 4 Machine-gun firing Control Mechanism and 4 bases and 14 launch cranes not that they will not cum in handy as 1or 2 will get lost in sailing her

the next is not 070 but 069

o71 must be the plan

jinks8 · « **Reply #51 on:** December 15, 2010, 01:53:20 am »

Hello back again with a bit more of my build first a lot of the first time builders will be looking at the cable drums and scratching of the head so this is my way ( Other ways are available ) first to clean the flat inside get a peace of wet and dry around 4” by 4” and stick it to a flat board

This will give you a good flat surface you can smooth and clean the inside of the drum ends lay the end flat side down and with your finger slid it back and forwards 3 or 4 times on more as you could round of the ends. The drums a good set of tweezers and the file supplied in issue 1 my tweezers are a locking type pick up the drum and hold firm on a flat surface and gently flatten the ends with file

Now for the putting them together, for this you need to make a gig 2 scrap bits of wood as long as they can be put together to form a right angle on dubbed sided sticky backed plastic

Stand one end in to the gig stick the drum free hand to a side plate with S/Glue when dry fix to side in gig this should give you a cable drum that will sit flat on the deck. Still fiddly but better than trying to do them free but get a good set of tweezes and the job will be a lot essayer

a few shots of build so far the guns on deck ar not fixt yet

jinks8 · « **Reply #52 on:** December 18, 2010, 01:37:36 am »

Hello again on a model that is to be RC one of the things you have to think a bout is the ON OFF switch it has to be placed in an unobtrusive place as pos hence I have put mine under the middle gun gun as mine are not going to be motorized all I have to do is swing the turret to left or right to get at the switch move it back and it is hidden

Next the anchor chains have used the sane as on my bissy it is a good double linked chine and used the one sent with the kit as the stay chins these are fastened to the anchor chine with fine fishing line and to the deck with a fine pin

Fixing the main tower to the deck mine is dun with 3 screws 2 can be seen in the photo the 3rd is underneath the tower will post photo later of the 3rd

jinks8 · « **Reply #53 on:** December 21, 2010, 04:03:48 pm »

jinks8 · « **Reply #54 on:** December 26, 2010, 02:05:12 pm »

Christmas over for 1 more year spring is on the way and the lakes may un freeze around march at this temp so just stick to the work shop, shed or if her in doors lets you the table. Fixing the guns on the deck fixing them on to a static is not much of a prob but on a working model well they need to be reinforced I have drilled holes in the bottom and put in a bit of brass rod .This is then fixt in to a hole drilled in to deck so if knocked hope fully they stay on and not go to the bottom of the lake

The pins will be cut down to just over deck thickness

jinks8 · « **Reply #55 on:** January 02, 2011, 11:47:38 pm »

hope allhad a good Christmas and new year. Radar is one of them as with the guns on the deck this part is best reinforced with pins as they are very vulnerable to damage

Once the paint work is touched up all will be well

jinks8 · « **Reply #56 on:** January 12, 2011, 09:59:46 pm »

HI all parts 19/20 turned upon my doorstep this morning and this is the contents

jinks8 · « **Reply #57 on:** January 18, 2011, 02:13:57 am »

USTON we have a problem the vents on the forward secondary gun mounts do not fit they are to big Mr T has dune this bit was just wondering if he had a problem and if so a way to fix it

The stern gun mount no problems a bit of filling in the gaps but that is all

The 2 Maine guns are a copy of the first so no probs there will have photos of rest later see you soon

jinks8 · « **Reply #58 on:** January 27, 2011, 03:15:54 am »

Hi fixed the bow fairlead that is part of the kit is a good bit of casting but is a devil of a bit to fix on a working model as super glue is to brittle by it self to withstand a collision with out support I have tested it and it fell off every time so if you are building a working ship it will have to be strengthened. My self I have made one out of brass and soldered it on not as good as the kit but it will not end up in the pond Mr Ts fix on the vents worked well thanks again

jinks8 · « **Reply #59 on:** February 06, 2011, 03:16:33 pm »

I have acquired a very sad looking USS MISSOURI she is around 4’ 6’’ long and has a beam of 6,1/2’’ and I an looking for plans to bring her back to full battle reedy condition if any one can help I would be most grateful. If I can get hold of the plans my post the progress on site will be a long term project. Sum of it is are on it but not a lot have not got photos of her yet but will post sum later

jinks8 · « **Reply #60 on:** February 07, 2011, 02:01:32 pm »

Got the last build E.M to day so will not be long now to finish over the next few days will get the port hols and scuppers water tight and if the wind stops it is to the lake and hope she doesn't go under 14 days and the parts should be on my door step looking at the build down load a lot of fiddly bits just the job ha, ha the safety rail will be the biggest challenge finding wire thin enough to make them as thread glued to the small pins provided Would not stand the test of time on the water
it would have bin better with etched brass but still will sort sum thing out . Well that is it for now be back soon

stoney · « **Reply #61 on:** February 07, 2011, 02:14:30 pm »

Looking good John

dont let Jim near it when its in the water

Paul

jinks8 · « **Reply #62 on:** February 07, 2011, 03:26:13 pm »

not on your life if Jim is on the water it will stay in the car that gos for Ray as well they are just to fast and create to much wash thanks for the looking good

stoney · « **Reply #63 on:** February 07, 2011, 03:40:02 pm »

Quote from: jinks8 on February 07, 2011, 03:26:13 pm

they are just to fast and create to much wash thanks for the looking good

Not as much wash as my Trent Lifeboat makes

Paul

jinks8 · « **Reply #64 on:** February 08, 2011, 12:23:22 am »

Thats true but you can see if a boat is in the way

jim just ceps on going

jinks8 · « **Reply #65 on:** February 23, 2011, 01:54:54 am »

last bits the very last 2 issues the last pieces and a lot of them

as you can see 081/082 are the same

now for pack 0022

jinks8 · « **Reply #66 on:** February 25, 2011, 01:07:55 am »

After putting the secondary gun turrets together started to mess around with railings on the turrets found sun wire thin enough not to look out of place turned not to bad but close up not brill need more work and les solder one thing the wood base fixed it in place but had to get it off again as sum of the pins for the railings went through the hole’s and would not cum out no matter how much I shuck the dam thing. The aerial’s that came with the kit needed a bit of work on them they looked ok but a bit too much solder on them and not too good it was only on one side and not all the way round. This was put right by covering them in flux holding them fast on a flat surface and with a hot soldering iron so it spreads around and some of the solder can be taken of

jinks8 · « **Reply #67 on:** March 03, 2011, 11:12:07 pm »

Have been working on the deck crane and aft Ariel mast and they went together without problem’s fixing the mast to its base that is a different mater sticking a brass Ariel on to a cast base is just about impossible solution make a brass one then it can be soldered on and so can the supports on the underside put a hole in the base support tower so it can be fixed to deck

jinks8 · « **Reply #68 on:** November 29, 2011, 04:53:29 pm »

Yes still hear had it built once but she was way to top heavy had her on the water but was far to choppy and with one I.C boat flying round should not have tried to put it on the water but ha ho she capsized lost one main gun and one secondary gun just the saltiest bit of water in her was enough to disrupt steering sending her over so now I am going to strip away a lot of the later armament and send her back in time to 1941 and see if that will help it will still be a faire weather ship. Must say the build was nice to do but the first sailing was

and all that in around 2Min's

pugwash · « **Reply #69 on:** November 29, 2011, 05:47:15 pm »

Jinks if you are having stability problems you could perhaps do the same as I did on a destroyer.
I went through the hull carving and cutting to remove excess weight - things like drilling out the resin turrets and making them hollow etc etc
and when I had removed about 1.5 kilos I then made a small ply keel - cast a lead bulb to 1.5 k and made it so it can be removed for going on
the display stand, Keel and bulb coated in epoxy and smoothed off and painted a dark colour so it is virtually invisible even in clear water.
- She now sails perfectly whereas before it would hardly stay upright in the test tank.

Geoff

jinks8 · « **Reply #70 on:** November 29, 2011, 11:57:41 pm »

Do not think it was just a stability problem but the freeboard is so close to the water and just the smallest amount of water in the hull and she has gone have 2 destroyers myself but sail theml as destroyers should give a lot of people at the pond a heart attack just watching them roll in a high speed turn with decks a wash. but thanks for the tip

Edward Pinniger · « **Reply #71 on:** November 30, 2011, 06:22:03 pm »

An alternative option for lightening the model could be to use some of the metal kit parts as masters for casting resin replacements - the difference in weight could then go into ballast in the bottom of the hull, resulting in a much more stable model. It's not surprising it's top-heavy with so many big cast metal parts (even the bridge superstructure and the main turrets!) on a wood hull. Definitely not your fault, but the manufacturer's - resin (or even better, styrene plastic as on the Hachette Bismarck) would have been a much better choice of material for a model intended to be R/C capable.

Your idea of converting the model to its 1941 fit (without all the AA gun turrets) is a good one, though - you don't see many R/C models of Yamato or Musashi in their original fit. You'd need to cast or scratchbuild another 6" gun turret

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