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Author Topic: Bait Boat Repair  (Read 22456 times)

Ben123

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Re: Bait Boat Repair
« Reply #25 on: May 31, 2010, 05:30:20 pm »

Thanks mate. I had wondered myself it something had got in there and caused the 'threading' wear. Motor looks to be very similar to this: http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/cem900.html

or perhaps this: http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/graupner_6317.html

The graupner one says it has a fan and looks higher quality, but price is the same - what's the difference would you say?
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malcolmfrary

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Re: Bait Boat Repair
« Reply #26 on: May 31, 2010, 07:09:03 pm »

First thing, these motors are way bigger than my usual territory, so someone with actual experience of them is preferred.
Next, any replacement motor is likely to need some serious filing on the shaft to give the flats needed to take the coupler.  Also, if he motor is working OK, it really doesn't need replacing.
Those grooves on the shaft might be an intended part of the sealing system.  There could have been some matching moulding in the tube.
Thinking aloud again.
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"With the right tool, you can break anything" - Garfield

Ben123

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Re: Bait Boat Repair
« Reply #27 on: May 31, 2010, 07:44:55 pm »

Thanks again. The motor makes a right row compared to the other, which is visibly newer and has thus been replaced itself at some point. I'm thinking that since I've got as far as I have, I may as well replace it and do the job properly.

So the spindles don't normally have a flat? Have you seen the type of coupler before?

Also, when fitting/refitting, how do you go about aligning everything correctly? I'm wondering if not doing so has been a reason for the leak, or if it's jst general wear and tear.
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sunk?

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Re: Bait Boat Repair
« Reply #28 on: June 01, 2010, 12:50:31 pm »

HI MATE,
as said earlier for alignment it may be easier to use a 'silicone fuel pipe'
get one that is half the diameter inside than the shafts are, that way you would not have to make a motor mouting at exactly the right hieght and angle.
or put shaft back in and secure motor then fix it at half way on any flex felt , ie if when fitted it moves 1/4 in up and down, pack it up 1/8th in, and the same side ways.:)
with the plastic hull your only option may well be to 're-silicone it', as not much will stick to plastic and withstand the vibrations from the motor without giving way. you will need the external 'elastic' type silicone  [flexable] to dampen the vibes and keep a good bond when wet.
regards
don
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malcolmfrary

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Re: Bait Boat Repair
« Reply #29 on: June 01, 2010, 02:27:40 pm »

For alignment, the simplest way is probably to make a rigid tube, hole at one end to fit the prop shaft, the hole at the other to fit the motor shaft.  Build the whole thing in place, self aligned, then remove the dummy coupler and put the "proper" one in.  A look at what used to be the main part of the mayhem site can turn up lots of useful information.
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"With the right tool, you can break anything" - Garfield

Ben123

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Re: Bait Boat Repair
« Reply #30 on: June 02, 2010, 01:29:48 pm »

Thanks gents.

I've spoken to a friend who has a smaller version of the boat I have and he said the seal is like an 'archimedes screw' which is designed to push any water out. Have any of you seen anything like it, and any ideas where I could get a replacement from?

I'm also still unsure what caused the leak in the first place, so need to work that out and also what replacement motor to get.
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malcolmfrary

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Re: Bait Boat Repair
« Reply #31 on: June 02, 2010, 06:09:38 pm »

Quote
I'm also still unsure what caused the leak in the first place, so need to work that out
Wear n tear.
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"With the right tool, you can break anything" - Garfield
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