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[ray t]

Hi all.  I am in the process of modifying a boat hull I have so that it works better for my needs.  I then have the intention of making a mould of it so that I can reproduce it for my dad and a friend.  The question I have is, I have filled a few large holes and straightened up a few edges using car body filler (P38 & P40).  I have also added a partition made from wood which I have covered in the filler also.  What do I need to do to this filler so that I can wax then apply PVA before the gelcoat? 

I have sanded the filler down to 2000 wet and dry so all is smooth. 

[Subculture]

If you're satisfied with the finish, then you apply the release agents directly over the filler.

[ray t]

Thanks for the reply mate.  That will save a little work I quess, as I didnt think I'd be able to wax filler properly.  If I was to insert a strip of wood, would I be able to just primer and spray it with car paints without covering in filler?

[Subculture]

Yes that will be fine. The materials you have to be cautious with are anything damp like clay, or polystyrene which melts in contact with polyester resin.

[ray t]

Is there any type of brush on primer/paint that I can paint my pattern with once it is finished then sand smooth?  I have been told that crystic primer is great but this does not seem available to the general public.  I am after something that will also fill any small imperfections in my finish 

Thanks again

[Subculture]

I see you're in North London like me. I get my paint supplies from a place in Edmonton (Bounces Rd), called 'Cars paint'. They sell all types of paint for automotive refinishing.

What you want is a filler primer, and ask for a 1k product (i.e. non catalysing single part). You can brush paint filler primer, and it will go on very thick, but you will find it sands very readily and allows you to get a nice finish. Whilst you are there, it's worth stocking up on filler, acryl red sspot putty and wet and dry as their prices are very keen.

Failing that try a local Halfrauds, they do an acrylic based filler primer in rattle cans which works well.

Pictured is a master I knocked up last week for an Aquabat I'm renovating with came minus a bottom hatch. This was made from MDF and finished using car body filler, filler primer, acryl red putty and a couple of coats of grey primer.

[ray t]

I will give that a try then.  I live in Enfield so will pop over later today.  I was looking at filler primer but I found it didn't cover any better than normal primer when I used it before.   Saying that though, it was a rattle can own brand from Halfords.  It was a yellow colour.  I will buy some of the paint on stuff as it sounds like it goes on a lot thicker.  I will let you know how it goes.

Thanks again

[Subculture]

I've used the yellow filler primer- it is a lot thicker than the normal grey/white/red primer they supply.

Make sure you get some cellulose thinners too for cleaning up your brushes afterwards. You will find that the primer dries very quickly, so don't over brush.

Another thing that works quite well is to mix a bit of talcum powder with the paint (do this in separate pot), and you get a nice smell when you sand it!

I sand the primer back with 150, 250 and 400 grit wet and dry, used dry. The paper will clog, but after you finish sanding, you wash the paper and let it dry overnight.

A litre of primer will last you a long time for modelmaking.