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[Alanboaty]

Hi all
      I'm about to start my first vac formed boat kit and would welcome any tips or advice from anyone who has built FSB Tenby or any other vac formed kit. I also want to use ready made rail stantions not cos I can't solder but I think they will look better so if anybody knows of a supplier could they let me know, I live in the Blackpool area.
             
                                                                     Cheers
                                                                         Alanboaty

[Number 6]

Check out the other thread in this section Model Slipway Tenby, Yes / No?
There was a feature in Model Boats Magazine July 2008 about the build, back issue available using the link below.
http://www.myhobbystore.com/product/23842/model-boats-magazine-july-2008

Marking sets are available from Barrys Model Lettering.
http://www.modellettering.com/prodetail.asp?productid=308&categorycode=09
http://www.modellettering.com/

I've built one of these, but modified mine to have twin prop/rudder like the real one. I can't remember where I got the stanchions from but I use Westbourne Model Centre quit a lot for parts, quick service and they know what they're talking about. Some stanchions below from Aeronaut.
http://www.westbourne-model.co.uk/aero-naut-model-boat-fittings-5673-0.html

You could try Scale Hobbies at Skelmersdale, not too far from you. I'd call them and ask what they have got.
http://www.scalehobbies.net/HOMEPAGE.html

You just need to be carefull when cutting the vac form parts, it's very easy to cut too much off, not easy to put it back again! Keep it as light as possible. I put some stiffeners under
the deck to make it a bit more rigid. Paints generally used for ease are Halfords own acryllic aerosols, Ford Galaxy Blue, VW Brilliant Orange (make sure you use white primer for the orange), can't remember which red I used.
The red, yellow stripes and the white line are all from individual colour 'coachlining' sets from Barrys Model Lettering as mentioned above. Have you checked out the photos in the gallery on Model Slipways website of real Tenby Tamar Class? I took those for them. Pictures of mine below at Wicksteed this year, hope this has been some help, Dave.

[Alanboaty]

Hi Dave,
          Many thanks for your advice I will take my time to check  on all you suggested and hopefully not make any daft mistakes.

                                                             Cheers
                                                                 Alanboaty

[barriew]

There is (was?) a company called Red Bank Models somewhere in the Blackpool area. They will do stantions.

Barrie

[Number 6]

Red Bank Models is still there at 201 Central Drive opposite the Co-Op. I called in last year when the Model Boat Show was on at the Norbreck. Not a huge amount for us boaters but they maybe able to order stuff in? Dave. 

http://www.redbankmodels.co.uk/

[Alanboaty]

  I visited model and hobby world on Owen Rd. in Lancaster today and found the stanchions I wanted, they are in packs of 10 for a £1 made by Lesro. They are made of white plastic and the correct hight also being plastic the holes can be easily opened out for the 1.6mm wire, they are spot on for the 1mm.  I recommend you give them a visit if you are ever nearby they are really helpful and the free brew is good as well. Yes Redbank Models are alive and well but not a lot for boatys.
                                                                           Alanboaty

[Number 6]

I'll check out that shop in Lancaster if up that way. There aren't too many shops in the Stoke-on-Trent area that do boat bits, it's mainly r/c cars and static plastic kits. They're ok for general building supplies, paints etc. but have to order most scale fittings over the web, or stock up at shows. Roll on Warwick, time to get all the running gear for my 8ft container ship!! That'll keep me busy over the winter!! Keep us posted on your progress, Dave. 

[Ben Tickle]

Thanks for the advise. Another question, is how do you use polystyrene cement?
The only boats which i have built is a club 500.

Thanks

Ben

[Number 6]

I use thick superglue (cyanoacrylate) in my builds for superstructures, general building, available from most big DIY or hardware shops. This type below at Westbourne Model Centre is good stuff, looks expensive for a glue but worth it.

http://www.westbourne-model.co.uk/glues-for-modeling-3489-0.html

For things like propshafts, rudders, motor-mounts where they need to be well and truly stuck rigid I use a car filler like Isopon P38.
First I make sure everything is positioned properly then temporarily hold in place with superglue. When satisfied everything is as it should be, I start to build up filler around it (on the inside of the hull of course!) There should have time to check everything still in line before it goes off. For things like propshafts I tend to glue a temporary support in place to hold the shaft rigid, once shaft is set the temporary support is removed, much easier than replacing a misaligned shaft! Model boats like the fsb Tenby have a thin vac-formed hull so be carefull it doesn't twist it while fitting shaft and rudders.
A lot of builders use 2 part epoxies such as Araldite, they're good but if not mixed properly they wont set causing all sorts of trouble. Also they can get warm while setting and I've had this cause me a problem before. I don't use them anymore because the superglue and Isopon route works best for me. Hope this of some use to you, cheers, Dave. 

[Shipmate60]

Dave,
I fit mine in vac formed hull as you do but with a skim of epoxy over the car filler as the filler is porous and this seals it completely.
In GRP/Wooden hulls I just use epoxy resin.

Bob

[Number 6]

That's good idea, hadn't really considered sealing the filler with epoxy. Resined wooden hulls before, have to really. Learn all sorts of usefull tips on here, cheers, Dave. 

[Roadrunner]

A good trick i know of is using super glue on wood is to 'damp' the area with water first then apply the super glue and let it dry, this is a 'Tack' method only you will need to reinforce the joint with something like P38.

What happends is that the wood surface absorbs the water in the porus surface now because its damp when you apply the superglue the glue follows the path of the water forming a very very strong bond with the wood and the part your glued to it! but it will take a while for it to dry fully giving you enough working time to position parts more accurately.

As a test try it out on a scrap bit of wood and see how much stronger it is compared to another adhesive, that test will tell you what adhesive works the best for that particular material.

If its a wood to wood surface obviously a decent wood glue should be used, but when its a metal or plastic against wood this works very well.

If its plastic to plastic then a 'plastic weld' is a better glue for choice over super glue.

As always use the right glue for the right job