Topic: WIDE-A-WAKE LAUNCH FOR STUART TWIN ENGINE (Read 95051 times)

Bernhard · « **Reply #50 on:** July 05, 2011, 08:15:01 pm »

.. Cant be eny better,,, a friend of me ...ask if you take ordre on one,,,,,

KBIO · « **Reply #51 on:** July 05, 2011, 08:51:17 pm »

Very interesting to follow up.
Perfect work!

Cheers!

Patternmaker · « **Reply #52 on:** July 05, 2011, 09:05:45 pm »

Quote from: Bernhard on July 05, 2011, 08:15:01 pm

.. Cant be eny better,,, a friend of me ...ask if you take ordre on one,,,,,

Bernard, sorry but I have so many other sports boats to build, not enough hours in the day because of a severe back problem I can only do 2 hours at a time and then rest for a while.

Regards Mick

Bernhard · « **Reply #53 on:** July 06, 2011, 12:58:52 pm »

Ohh yes i understand ,, i have the same big back problem...after a work Accident...bot good you stil can build your boats,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Regards Bernhard

broger · « **Reply #54 on:** July 15, 2011, 11:39:00 am »

Hi Mick
You really are a pattern maker, your skill is enviable. When I started my apprenticeship as a sheet metal worker my mate started as a pattern maker and the things he could make out of wood where amazing,
Thank you for posting how to do it, for enthusiasts like me it is invaluable.
I hope your back is better soon, I know how frustrating it can be not being able to what you want to do.
I'm ready to plank my Miranda now I'll post how I get on, just got to find a good glue!
Alan

Patternmaker · « **Reply #55 on:** July 15, 2011, 04:04:04 pm »

Hi Alan,
Thanks for your good wishes, unfortunately by back will never get any better, it started in my early 20s after leaving national service, I was in 3 para and did 28 parachute jumps, I was told this was the cause of my lower back problem, of course as with anything it gets worse with age I just have to live with it.

Looking forward to seeing your Miranda progress, I will be posting more pictures of Wide A Wake soon.

Regards Mick

Patternmaker · « **Reply #56 on:** July 18, 2011, 12:50:13 pm »

Ash ribs completed, 600 copper rivets used.

Bernhard · « **Reply #57 on:** July 18, 2011, 03:09:52 pm »

WOWWWW ...what a TOP job..

.........

Regards Bernhard

KBIO · « **Reply #58 on:** July 18, 2011, 05:27:44 pm »

Good evening!
Once again a pleasure to see how good, you are going ahead.

I know some who will be happy to see your progresses.

What is the wood for the ribs?
Thanks Patternmaker, we all learn the right way!
Regards!

Patternmaker · « **Reply #59 on:** July 18, 2011, 06:34:36 pm »

Quote from: KBIO on July 18, 2011, 05:27:44 pm

Good evening!
Once again a pleasure to see how good, you are going ahead.
I know some who will be happy to see your progresses.
What is the wood for the ribs?
Thanks Patternmaker, we all learn the right way!
Regards!

The ribs are sawn from Ash, 5/16" X 1/8" they have to be steamed to bend, Ash is also used in full sized boats.

Regards Mick

gondolier88 · « **Reply #60 on:** July 18, 2011, 08:32:58 pm »

It gets better! Well done Mick, eagerly awaiting the next install...

Patternmaker · « **Reply #61 on:** July 21, 2011, 05:48:07 pm »

Stern tube, shaft, oiler & propeller. Phosphor bronze bushes, 1/4”dia stainless steel shaft, PTFE gland & thrust washer. Propeller was a 4” dia bronze casting cut down to 3”dia balanced, sharpened and polished, To get closer to the suggested pitch of 8”

Bernhard · « **Reply #62 on:** July 21, 2011, 07:53:44 pm »

Woow im i love...it cant be eny better

...........when can i have it send,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Regards Bernhard

KBIO · « **Reply #63 on:** July 21, 2011, 09:06:37 pm »

Good evening !

Splendid Patternmaker.

My question: I guess , you didn't have a 3" x 8" propeller, and this is the reason why you shorten from 4" to 3".
But wont you need more RPM to keep propeller efficiency?
And now, will it be still easy to manoeuver?
Is it possible to compensate wih the surface of the rudder???
Interesting.

Thanks for these photos!
Regards!

Patternmaker · « **Reply #64 on:** July 21, 2011, 09:35:06 pm »

Hello KBIO,
You can no longer get a 3”X 8” pitch propeller which is a large pitch for this diameter that is why I have reduced a 4” to fit the hog aperture.
The plans state a 3 X 8 propeller for a D10. The Stuart Twin Launch Engine is more powerful, at 200rpm I estimate a speed of 2 knots it should not make any difference to propeller efficiency or manoeuvring, unless someone knows something different.

Regards Mick

gondolier88 · « **Reply #65 on:** July 22, 2011, 07:35:31 am »

Your right, that prop' should srill be fairly efficient, however I would have thought the ST Twin would need to swing at least 4" of prop' to keep the rev's at a decent level. Surmising here, but I assume that the prop had a more elliptical shape to the tops of the blades before you reduced this one? If so that would have used a lot of the torque up from the engine and increased efficiency. Realistically on a prop like that I would expect at least 25% slip, if not more, which at 200rpm;

6" = 150mm
150mm x 200rpm = 30000mm/min
30000mm = 30m
30m x 60 = 1800m
1800m = 1.8Kph
1.8Kph - 0.973 Knots

That said, it's a nice prop' and it's scale speed...

Greg

Patternmaker · « **Reply #66 on:** July 22, 2011, 08:19:43 am »

Thanks Greg,
I made a point of keeping the blade tips as near to the same elliptical shape as the original 4", I have had to fit a 3" because of of the aperture size of the deadwood, the main point is correct scale speed.

Mick

treeboa · « **Reply #67 on:** July 22, 2011, 11:04:38 am »

thats not a boat - more a work of art

, i tried a plank build in my misspent youth, a trawler from billings, it looked ok - from a distance - one eye shut - in a darkened room, my next foray was a perkasa, three weeks in and lots of mistakes later i purchased the glass hull

, admiration for you guys that can work with wood, as my mrs keeps telling me - mike if you had been a carpenter we would never have needed kindling

derekwarner · « **Reply #68 on:** July 22, 2011, 11:35:40 am »

.... a true craftsman always aligns the screwdriver slots in the countersunk head or cheese head screws in a true vertical or horizontal plane depending on the application

Patternmaker .....

...all true & correct .........Derek

broger · « **Reply #69 on:** July 22, 2011, 01:00:34 pm »

Hi Mick
Now riveting, I can do that!
I meant to ask you if the photo for the planking (MBMIMG_6738JAGUAR POWER BOAT)
Is that the shape of the plank? as I'm using strait one's!
I’m keeping a record of your build so I can attempt it myself one day.
Best wishes, Alan

KBIO · « **Reply #70 on:** July 22, 2011, 03:22:24 pm »

Good afternoon!
I’m keeping a record of your build so I can attempt it myself one day
So do I!

That's right, that it will be very helpfull, Mick, if you can show the way to install the first clinker and then the second.
A small speech on how to align it on the rig's ribs, will also make the things clearer for some of us!

Thanks a lot for this very interesting building!

Regards

Patternmaker · « **Reply #71 on:** July 22, 2011, 03:48:42 pm »

Hi Alan
Yes it is the shape of 1 plank, everyone is different but can be replicated for the same position on other side, with carvel planking depending on the width you can use straight planks of course they have to be tapered fore & aft.

Regards Mick

Patternmaker · « **Reply #72 on:** July 22, 2011, 05:05:10 pm »

Hello KBIO

When you have marked out 12 divisions from the keel rabbet to the sheer line on each mould station, stem & transom this will give you the width of each plank at these positions, fit the garboard planks first, very
little curve on these just tapered fore & aft. Once these have been fitted lay the the next plank in position and mark from the inside which will give you the shape of the next plank but you must add 1/4” from your
mark for the land ( the overlap) transfer dimensions from the position of your original mark from the inside at each station this will give you the shape of the plank which can be replicated for the other side.
Each plank is different shape as you work up to the sheer line.

The plans suggest using plywood for planking which I do not agree with that is why I have used mahogany, with plywood you would see all the edges, OK if you are going to paint the hull, yes there is a lot of
waste with mahogany but I think it is well worth it.

When I set up my moulds (stations) I put a 1.5” X 1/2” batten from Stem to transom this holds everything in place and keeps the hull rigid for planking.

The position of the ribs are marked at 2” centres on the outside of the hull square from the keel, drill 1/16” holes 1/8” in from the edge of each plank, this gives you the position of the ribs.

I have made a quick mock up of planking so you can see a section,
Hope this helps

Regards Mick

KBIO · « **Reply #73 on:** July 22, 2011, 06:05:10 pm »

Thanks Pattermaker!

Everything clearer for me.

The only reason why I used Plywood myself, was because I didn't dare (couldn't afford) to waste mahogany!

I agree that plain wood is far better and yhis is my next project when I have the proper wood.
My last (but important) question concernes both ends.
How far away from the extremities , do you sticks edge to edge? (I am not sure to be clear enough here!

)
Second question is: how wide is the plank before you draw the clinker?
third: (never ended!

) how thick is your plank?
Thank you to take time to answer those (stupids?

) questions!
Regards!

Patternmaker · « **Reply #74 on:** July 22, 2011, 06:14:06 pm »

Hello KBIO,

Just a small bead of adhesive down the centre of the land, if you are using plywood cut them 4' 6" long 3"
wide, the planks are 1/8" thick.

Regards Mick

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Author Topic: WIDE-A-WAKE LAUNCH FOR STUART TWIN ENGINE (Read 95051 times)

Bernhard

KBIO

Patternmaker

Bernhard

Patternmaker

Patternmaker

Bernhard

KBIO

Patternmaker

Patternmaker

Bernhard

KBIO

Patternmaker

Patternmaker

treeboa

KBIO

Patternmaker

Patternmaker

KBIO

Patternmaker