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[roedj]

To All,

I've just purchased a Sheerline German IID sub and am starting on opening up the flood holes in the solid bow section. I have yet to start on the upper hull. My question is this (if you have such experience) - specifically what tools did you use and how long did it take you to do all the flood holes - both bow and upper hull. Warning - if you say it only took you a couple of hours, I'm going to be physically ill.

Dan in sunny Michigan

[Subculture]

Most people just chain drill and finish off with needle files. Slow laborious job, which is why etched metal decks are popular if available.

If you have access to a milling machine, that will certainly make life a lot easier, but you'll probably still have to do a little finishing off by hand e.g. squaring off the ends of the slots.

That's one advantage of doing a Brit boat of the same era- they tended to go for holes as opposed to slots- darn sight easier for the modeller!

Andy in overcast London

[roedj]

Most people just chain drill and finish off with needle files. Slow laborious job, which is why etched metal decks are popular if available.
Andy in overcast London

Not quite clear on "chain drill".

There are chain drills but I doubt that's what you mean. Rather, I think you mean to start by making smaller holes working up with bigger holes until you can finish it off with files.

Is that about it? That's what I'm doing now and it's a tough slog to be sure.

Thanks for the help,

Dan in rainy Michigan

[Subculture]

Yep you pretty much have it. Chain drilling is drilling a series of holes adjacent to one another to form a rough slot, then finish off with a file(s).

[trevor v]

Hi,On my U177  I did a holes at each end and then used a dremel fitted with fine blade

[trevor v]

To All,

I've just purchased a Sheerline German IID sub and am starting on opening up the flood holes in the solid bow section. I have yet to start on the upper hull. My question is this (if you have such experience) - specifically what tools did you use and how long did it take you to do all the flood holes - both bow and upper hull. Warning - if you say it only took you a couple of hours, I'm going to be physically ill.

Dan in sunny Michigan

By the way just over 300 holes on the engel U177 took me 5 to 6 hours work

[roedj]

Hi,On my U177  I did a holes at each end and then used a dremel fitted with fine blade

I thought I'd tried every Dremel tool I could think of but what exactly is a "fine blade"? Do you have a Dremel P/N?

Thanks for your time.

Dan

[trevor v]

A thin diamond cutting disc

[roedj]

A thin diamond cutting disc

I must admit I never thought of using a disc.

I'm having enough trouble with drill bits. I'm sure with a disc I can do twice as much damage in the same amount of time.

Thanks for the idea,

Dan

[timsenecal]

on my manley-esk type II, i made a brass template that had about 5 slots in it using a friends mill, and then clamped that in place and used a dremel with a small drill bit like a router to do most of my slots.   I plan to upgrade my laser cut deck template to include two different templates for the two different size holes (upper hull slots versus small bow and stern slots)

[Subculture]

You can also benchfit a template (using basic hand tools- maybe a pillar drill).

[reinhard]

Hello there
If you can acquire a copy of Marine Modeller (June 2006, page 27), it outlines the method I used in the build article.  Failing that, the article is reproduced in the latest Traplet publication 'Simply Submarines'.
I hope the info is useful.
Reinhard

[roedj]

Hello there
If you can acquire a copy of Marine Modeller (June 2006, page 27), it outlines the method I used in the build article.  Failing that, the article is reproduced in the latest Traplet publication 'Simply Submarines'.
I hope the info is useful.
Reinhard

I have "Simply Submarines". The article on the IID was largely responsible for me acquiring this sub in the first place.
Thanks to all for their ideas.

Dan