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[justboatonic]

Howdo.

Does anyone have a link to sites where you can purchase fret saws for model boat purposes? Most of the the ones I've seen in DIY stores are quite coarse and not suitable for cleanly cutting thin ply used for formers or decks.

Any suggestions?

Ta!

EDIT: That's a hand held fret saw not a machine one.

[John W E]

Hi you can try hear    http://hobby.uk.com/tools/fretsaw-blades.html
and hear http://stores.ebay.co.uk/always-hobbies/Fretsaw-Scrollsaw-Blades-/_i.html?_fsub=743212011&_sid=222604251&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322
 

aye
john

[JB]

This any use? ..I had the Bahco 302 fret saw, fine blades are available in packs with a selection of TPI, bought mine in Preston at a tool shop which I can't remember the name of now! paid about £12 + the blades, sold it on as I didn't use it much and I've changed my tack to models where I don't need one.

JB.

http://www.toolshopdirect.co.uk/products.php/store/5/c1/102/c2/259

[rmaddock]

These people are proper tool sellers:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/

They've got some lovely stuff.

[justboatonic]

Thanks both.

BTW, what's the difference between a fret saw and a coping saw? 

[CF-FZG]

BTW, what's the difference between a fret saw and a coping saw?  

From the depths of my memory, (I was at school at the time ), the depth of the throat - a fret saw has a much deeper throat than a coping saw.

There's probably other differences, but that's one I remember


Mark.

[HS93 (RIP)]

remember when buying blades that some have pins in the ends and some are plain I use the proxon pinned blades as they are easy to use I got fed up using the adapters for the plain ones, if you are doing lots of internal cuts where you drill a hole and put the blade through  pinned are much easier to use.

peter

[JB]

Thanks both.

BTW, what's the difference between a fret saw and a coping saw?  

I've used both fret and coping in the past, coping saw was for thicker woods, fret saw with the much finer blades for intricate work, I remember my dad using a fret saw 50+ years ago, the work piece...a small sheet of ply I think, was clamped to a table with an overhang where he was cutting... the saw handle below the ply...there is a name for this type of work but it escapes me at the moment!

JB.

Its just occured to me...! coping saw blade could be turned in the frame to any direction so you can cut sideways and up as well as down with the frame in the same position...and its Fretwork...too early for my brain on a sunday morning

[essex2visuvesi]

This any use? ..I had the Bahco 302 fret saw, fine blades are available in packs with a selection of TPI, bought mine in Preston at a tool shop which I can't remember the name of now! paid about £12 + the blades, sold it on as I didn't use it much and I've changed my tack to models where I don't need one.

JB.

http://www.toolshopdirect.co.uk/products.php/store/5/c1/102/c2/259

Bahco 302 here as well :) with the finest blades They do

[nhp651]

if you want really fine blades for very intricate work, then go for the Pearcing saw blade,s as the pearcing saw is a jewellers tool for cutting fine filigre' work on silver and gold........I use my pearcing saw for cutting fine shapes in brass........

and if you do, as with either the fret or coping saw......always set up the blade to cut on the "back stroke" ie, the cut is made when you draw the saw backwards toward you.....never the other way............as you havemore control of direction of cut, andcontrol over the bladen, and also the blades are so thin that on the "push" stroke they tend to bend and twist and break!

also with a piercing saw blade, it is secured by tightening up a "jaw" clamp, rather than a pin as with coping saw blades

[John W E]

hi there

As has been pointed out with using a Coping Saw one may adjust the blade in any direction of cut.  However the teeth of the blade always face the handle that is the way to remember it when fitting a new blade.   Also, one can use the Coping Saw in a variety of positions - vertically and horizontally.

With a fretsaw - doing fretwork (as its known)  the blade of the saw must be vertical and the piece being on is kept horizontal.    Normally, we use a board of approximately half inch thick x 10 x 8 inches with a V cut in, clamped to the workbench and this is used to hold our workpiece on.    We use the V as a support for the material whilst cutting it,.

On 99% of the models I have built from wood, I have always used the fretsaw to cut the frames out.

Hey, I have built a few models now  

aye
john

[JB]

Its the saw school...!

photo of blades used with a scroll saw...an electric fretsaw...not what our friend will be using but the same principles of vertical cut and blade cutting down, this machine no longer exists now, 2nd photo shows as I bought it, a hand fretsaw is much easier to control.

JB.

 

[nhp651]

that's a nice looking saw, Jb.what make is it.

neil.

[Tankerman]

These blades are superb: http://www.eileensemporium.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=65&Itemid=9

Chris

[JB]

that's a nice looking saw, Jb.what make is it.

neil.

Hi neil, its a Rexon, middle range for scroll saws I think, took me a while to decide which one to buy and I looked at several in different tool shops and the superstores around preston and Blackpool, Rexon was at B&Q Backpool near the M/way roundabout, I'm sure they are available with a different badge and in various colours.

Cost £90 at the time, 2005, fairly decent too for the price and it worked very well, 2 speed and the blade was vertical not like the one I saw at £40 in another B&Q in preston, blade was at an angle!  silly me broke the mechanism fitting a new blade in a rush and I couldn't figure out how to seperate the casing to fix it so I passed it on to a mate, it did need a mod to the plate where the blade passes through, I have some more photo's stored on CD so I'll sort those and post some later, its a useful machine to have but does take some getting used to, practice and you can do lots of work much quicker than by hand, the bulkheads in photo were for a small static trawler.

Just back from Fairhaven to look at the cars, weather was terrible and my back went twang again so I was stuck in the car

...a quick snap below...!

[nhp651]

yes, i passed there this lunch time on my way to pick the kisds up from ice skating.....looked to be a lot of nice cars but we were in a hurry and then the rain started so went home.
neil.

[JB]

I was late arriving at the lake, its all the wife's fault! Cortinas, police Sierra, Stag, E Type, Minors, all sorts...it was packed, eventually managed to park behind the Jags near the entrance, wouldn't let me in with the X Type it does need a wash mind you...!!!
 
Sorry back to the saw, my opinion for what its worth, Rexon is fine if you don't fancy spending a lot of cash, you can go up to and over £500 but that's a bit over the top, i removed the safety shield its dangerous! only problem is when cutting very thin stuff, the blade is not supported well enough because of the wide slots, you could sacrifice a piece of ply underneath but an internet acquaintance I was in contact with at the time had made his own insert out of paxolin, he sent me one FOC and its shown in the photo, fitted perfectly and made all the difference.

What all this has to do with a hand fret saw I have no idea but it all sounds good

Oh, I'm babysitting a 300ZX twin turbo tonight, son transports cars and this one is off to Brum in the morning...I'll try for some photo's