Topic: port holes (Read 8505 times)

hdserv · « **on:** October 07, 2011, 05:54:05 pm »

I need some portholes in brass with glazing and rivet marking to fit a12mm hole where would the best place to get them be Jim

Patrick Henry · « **Reply #1 on:** October 07, 2011, 06:02:23 pm »

Have a look here... http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/ship_fittings.html

Rich

Bryan Young · « **Reply #2 on:** October 07, 2011, 06:34:35 pm »

Be very careful here. Wooden hulled boats or wooden superstructures may (and I stress "may") have a secondary flange fitted on the outward side of a structure to avoid the fastening bolts damaging the wood. But the main scuttle casting flange is always fitted on the inside. So on a steel bulkhead, apart from a very thin sliver only the bolt heads are visible. Too many models are visually ruined by the scuttles/ports being fitted back to front. I think commercial manufacturers are mainly to blame for this, just have a look at a photo of a ship, or better still, have a look at one and you'll see what I mean. One of the reasons why the flange is on the inside is because the casting also incorporates at least one hinge....sometimes two so that the port light itself can actually be opened. Eight bolts are normally used. BY.

irishcarguy · « **Reply #3 on:** October 11, 2011, 06:33:13 am »

Hi, RB model boat fittings seem to match what you are looking for best, from what I can see. They are available from Cornwall Model Boats. Mick B.

hdserv · « **Reply #4 on:** October 11, 2011, 09:40:33 am »

thanks for all your advice have order from cornwall models

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #5 on:** October 11, 2011, 10:50:14 am »

As an aside but still on the topic, What is actually the best way to precisely fit portholes and Glazing.

What I mean to say is, what glues do you use for the glazing and what glues do you use to attach the brass porthole to a fibre glassed hull and also a wooden cabin. ????? Which comes first, the glass or the brass. ? Even how do you apply said material neatly.

Mine always look as if the were applied with a Tar brush by a monkey. I'm looking at seeing No glue or stains on the glass and being water tight. After 17 boats you would think I had some idea what I was doing.

Ken

NickKK · « **Reply #6 on:** October 12, 2011, 12:08:18 am »

Frosted glass with finger print motif ? ... I can do that very easily too!!! ... I tried using a pin or a sowing needle to first glue the glazing in then the porthole in to the wood or fiber glass .... I use a slow setting super glue to fix mine in place ... I use the pin to dip it in a spot of glue and run it around the edges

Bryan Young · « **Reply #7 on:** October 12, 2011, 11:57:57 am »

Kenny...what size ports (glass dia) are you doing? I've found that two sliding fit brass tubes cut about 1/4" long (for the outer one, and prehaps 1/16" shorter for the inner one is OK. Mount them all on a bit of scrap perspex then drop in a small amount of clear resin (I used "Bondaglass). When set the units easily chip off the perspex and the odd bit of leakage is easily trimmed off with a Stanley Knife. Doubtless, you've already drilled the holes into the hull etc. to the size of tube being used. Now simply push fit the ports into the drilled holes leaving a tiny bit of the outer rim protruding. Then run a few drops of superglue around the inside of the hull where the port sticks through. Depending on the scale of the model....if it's about 1:36 or greater then the 8 bolt heads can be shown. I use small headed dressmakers pins. At 1:48 the heads can't really be seen so missing them out won't be noticed. See the ports fitted into Norseman, Havelock etc. to get the idea. The inner tube purports to show the rim of the glazing, and the outer tube is the actual scuttle casting. Hope that helps. Bryan.

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #8 on:** October 12, 2011, 08:07:34 pm »

Thank you both for your input. You have both mentioned superglue, and this is the sticking point (pun intended) because this mists up the glazing.

I like the idea of a pin to delicately place glue into the space for the plastic 'glass' and have used 'cockpit glue' which has to very carefully applied because it stains and seems to fail after a voyage ? so I wondered what other glue there was. When we come to inserting the 'completed window' into the hull we cannot use superglue again so other makes have been tried which are thick and blobby ! Hence my cry for help.

When I reverse the procedure and superglue the 10mm brass porthole into the hull it's successful, but then I have to glaze a sometimes awkwardly located frame to glaze it but cannot then use superglue.

I like the idea of clear resin which would survive a superglue attack but is it really that clear ? This could be applied to the brass frames before insertion but would bump up the cost.

Thanks for your thoughts

Ken

DickyD · « **Reply #9 on:** October 12, 2011, 08:29:30 pm »

I use UHU or Zap a Dap a Goo for my windows and portholes Ken.

For small portholes I use two part epoxy resin and no plastic.

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #10 on:** October 12, 2011, 08:51:28 pm »

Thanks Dicky. I've never tried UHU. Zapa what

cheers

ken

JB · « **Reply #11 on:** October 12, 2011, 10:06:32 pm »

here you go..now called Zap Goo..formerly Zap A dap Goo

http://www.supergluecorp.com/zap/zap-glues/zap-dap-goo-ii

justboatonic · « **Reply #12 on:** October 12, 2011, 10:14:35 pm »

You can also use glazing glue which the airfix plane \ car kit builders use for canopies and windscreens etc.

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #13 on:** October 13, 2011, 11:28:39 am »

Plenty of ideas there.

I'll experiment

cheers guys

ken

JB · « **Reply #14 on:** October 13, 2011, 11:52:06 am »

Found this at my local model shop...not tried it myself yet but looks like it could be useful, anyone used it? second item down... not cheap!

JB.

http://www.transportmodels.co.uk/glues_108.php

Bryan Young · « **Reply #15 on:** October 13, 2011, 11:52:22 am »

The clear resin I mentioned is the stuff used for embedding things like the components of watches or insects or whatever. Totally clear. I also use Devcon as that also sets pretty clear. BY.

Spook · « **Reply #16 on:** October 13, 2011, 12:07:47 pm »

I read somewhere about using PVA exterior wood glue for portholes instead of glazing plastic. Put masking tape on the inside of the hull, lie the model on its side and drip-feed the PVA into the porthole until it reaches the desired level and leave to dry. It should dry opaque. But remember to use exterior glue, not interior, or you'll end up with a submarine when the PVA dissolves.

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #17 on:** October 13, 2011, 08:40:03 pm »

Quote from: jb on October 12, 2011, 10:06:32 pm

here you go..now called Zap Goo..formerly Zap A dap Goo

http://www.supergluecorp.com/zap/zap-glues/zap-dap-goo-ii

The clue is in the title. Contain superglue. Would have to experiment to see if it fogs up.

ken

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #18 on:** October 13, 2011, 08:42:27 pm »

Quote from: jb on October 13, 2011, 11:52:06 am

Found this at my local model shop...not tried it myself yet but looks like it could be useful, anyone used it? second item down... not cheap!

JB.

http://www.transportmodels.co.uk/glues_108.php

Used this on my Titanic with over 500 windows. Very runny drips out overnight. The recommended way was to get a cocktail stick and draw a wet piece across the porthole where it formed a thin film. Even after a week it could be punctured in a flash.

ken

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #19 on:** October 13, 2011, 08:47:04 pm »

Quote from: Bryan Young on October 13, 2011, 11:52:22 am

The clear resin I mentioned is the stuff used for embedding things like the components of watches or insects or whatever. Totally clear. I also use Devcon as that also sets pretty clear. BY.

Hi Brian,

I haven't found a small enough quantity of casting resin cheap enough to try this but it's one of the answers.

The Devcon's 'pretty clear' is not clear enough to simulate clear glass.

I think you're beginning to see the problems chaps.

cheers

ken

JB · « **Reply #20 on:** October 13, 2011, 09:07:54 pm »

Quote from: Tug---Kenny on October 13, 2011, 08:47:04 pm

Hi Brian,

I haven't found a small enough quantity of casting resin cheap enough to try this but it's one of the answers.

The Devcon's 'pretty clear' is not clear enough to simulate clear glass.

I think you're beginning to see the problems chaps.

cheers

ken

I think you are right, it is a problem what to use...as I have just discovered

Made a start on the Corvette and used epoxy for the portholes...eek! dried a foggy yellow and looks terrible, wonder if I can get away with saying 'its weathered'

JB.

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #21 on:** October 13, 2011, 09:23:35 pm »

Tomorrow I'll start experimenting and take some snap shots as I progress with as many variations as I can muster.

I know it seems like a silly exercise but you do get people insisting on poking their eye close up to see what's inside the model. When I illuminate the Titanic's massive window collection then any flaws are going to obvious.

My present Tug build is not quite so important but I'd still like them clean. For example, the wheelhouse has large square windows on all four flat sides. This was easy as I used a large sheet of perspex fitted wall to wall with double sided tape. Luckily it's high above the waves, but now I'm thinking of the engine room portholes (10mm) and want a flawless see through illuminated view.

ken

DickyD · « **Reply #22 on:** October 13, 2011, 10:24:47 pm »

Quote from: Tug---Kenny on October 13, 2011, 08:40:03 pm

The clue is in the title. Contain superglue. Would have to experiment to see if it fogs up.

ken

Windows in my Al Khubar fixed with Zap a dap a goo, no fogging.

JB · « **Reply #23 on:** October 13, 2011, 11:35:17 pm »

Quote from: Tug---Kenny on October 13, 2011, 08:42:27 pm

Used this on my Titanic with over 500 windows. Very runny drips out overnight. The recommended way was to get a cocktail stick and draw a wet piece across the porthole where it formed a thin film. Even after a week it could be punctured in a flash.

ken

Thanks for the info...saved me some cash! looking forward to your testing session

JB.

News:

Author Topic: port holes (Read 8505 times)

hdserv

Patrick Henry

hdserv

NickKK

Spook