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[brianB6]

It's probably about time I started my own topic instead of using Gelns and Dickies. 
I have been building H.M.A.S. Ararat "The Rat" an Armidale class Patrol boat for more than 15 months, using Steve Batcheldors fibreglass hull.  The reason for Ararat is that she is the only Boat named after a town in the State of Victoria where I live.
I enjoy doing the detail parts working mostly in brass and perspex.   Yes, they are heavier than styrene but my styrene parts either come apart or the paint comes off. 
The latest parts I have been working on are the 25 mm. gun (see Glens build of an Armidale) and the rear steps.
The diagonal mesh was from Northyard in N.Z. but I am not sure if they still have it.
Although it is about the right dimensions I fear it may clog up when painted.
The bolts will go through the transom so that it can be removed for painting the hull.   I much prefer to paint as much of the boat as possible at the same time but with the details painted separately.

[DickyD]

Very nice Brian. I take it that your boat is 1:50 scale. 

[brianB6]

Hi Dickie.
Yes, 1:50 to go with my 1:48 Vosper Mk. 3 Corvette and Cervia.
I have done some more turning on the drill to make up some of the anchor handeling details.
They all need finishing off.

[Norseman]

I have done some more turning on the drill

Hi Brian - How do you do that on a drill? I ask because I thought I would have to have a lathe.
A pm would do if you don't want to interrupt your build log.

Thanks Dave

[brianB6]

Happy to show the world. 
The Engineers on this site will probably be horrified at using a drill but I am not trying to make a steam engine. 
I can usually get to within about 0.05 mm. of the right dia. and length.
I have a 13 mm. Makita hammer drill with reverse but no speed control unfortunatly.
Just held in a 4" vice on the bench.
Light cuts only as the drill bearings are not meant for side pressure although the hammer drill bearings are probably better than a plain drill.
For turning I use a series of files from 150 mm. down to needle files and wet and dry paper.
I also use a jewellers saw or junior hacksaw to cut narrow slots and 'square' corners.
The files need to be cleaned with a fine wire brush to get rid of the swarf that clings to them.
Most of the material I turn is brass rod but I have used aluminium and a little steel.
The reverse is really useful as files cut differently in each direction.
Only have the minimum work sticking out of the chuck and try to finish that part before moving the rod out for the next cuts. (As per Glens gun barrel shown below)

[brianB6]

Some more turning.   The Anchor and Port and Stbd. stern winches.
The photos really show the faults. 
Just remember they are less than 10 mm. high.

[RaaArtyGunner]

Brian,

Thank you.  

Any more photos.

Bunnings have a larger 2 speed Makita Hammer drill with reverse, and not overly priced.

However the older ones are be sturdier having been built in Japan.

My variable speed with reverse, 10mm with hammer, is still going strong, bought in late 1970's, back then it cost twice as much as the current bigger Hammer drill.

[brianB6]

"Your wish is my command" 
The supports for the gun platform and the almost finished gun.   Most of the bits are still loose so may not be properly aligned.
SWMBO wants 'more' cupboards so it may be a few days before I can get back to the boat. 

[DickyD]

Coming on well Brian, makes mine look a little sad.

Brian do you know the width of the superstructure ladders for my 1:72 scale ?

[brianB6]

Hi Dickie
Not quite sure.   There are two widths:-
P & S up to Bonnet vents appear to be 425 mm. or 450 mm. ccs. on the handrails. (say 6 mm. at 1/72nd.)
The rest:- Stbd gun platform, Stbd. funnel (2 off, one above the other from bridge deck) Port from rear deck to bridge deck work out to 350 mm. to 375 mm. ccs. on the handrails.  (say 5 mm. at 1/72nd.)
Approx 320 mm. between treads.  (say 4.2 mm. at 1/72nd.)
Handrails (Side rails) about 25 mm. dia. and treads 20 mm.
Maybe Glen can measure them?

[DickyD]

Thanks Bri, that will help a lot.

[Norseman]

Ok Brian - Thanks a lot for the turning info - I can rig something up
I have plenty of spare drills etc 

Dave

[bobk]

Thank you for that Brian.  What a great idea.  I was just thinking about how to create a couple of small fittings.
I have a spare hammer drill and a vice, but no lathe.  I could now do them in brass rather than fabricate in ABS.   

[brianB6]

I have not turned every part.   The Trim tab hydraulics are brass tubes since they appear to be almost the right size. 
Non of the bits are fully assembled yet so they might show as slightly out of place. 

[DickyD]

Very nice Brian but could you do that in 1:72 scale ? 

Could not do it on mine as it would be to heavy.

[brianB6]

Yes, weight has always been a problem with this hull.
That's one of the reasons I used tube and keep any brass sections as thin as possible.
In hindsight, it would have been nice to build in a larger scale. 1:32 perhaps.
Getting to painting time and seeing how "the Rat" performs with a full load. 

[brianB6]

A few more small parts.
Towing post which will be used to hold the removable section of the rear deck in place.
Searchlight brackets and P & S light surrounds.   I cannot think og the right name. 
The first of 12 Bollards.  Only 11 more to go.

[Glenedge]

Hi brian

Carpenters Box springs to mind for the side lights!!!!
Glen

[brianB6]

Maybe the left hand photo should have been posted under "Name the Part" 
What are they? Divers boots 
The right hand photo shows them soldered onto their deck mounting plates.
Yes, Bollards 
And NO, I am not going to make any more, even for myself! after getting rid of the cramp in my finger from holding the soldering iron so steady. 
They have to be so accurate to look right and even now I can see the imperfections.
Maybe I should have bought Steve's moulded ones, but I had to give it a try. 

[RaaArtyGunner]

Brian,

Wouldn't worry about it.
Unless the full sized ones are cast, then imperfections will be present in the real thing.

Reckon it adds realism to the model.

[derekwarner]

brianB6........do you have any acquaintances with [small] sand blasting or grit blasting equipment? ...it does an excellent job & turns fabricated soldered components into look like cast items......& a great key for your grey paint

opps....   there is no grey in the colour chart..........Derek

[brianB6]

The full size bollards are fabricated so cast ones would be wrong.
Plenty of grey, but perhaps it does not matter if the paint comes off. It does on the full size boats!
I use a tooth brush and neat Cream cleanser to get the worst of the flux off.
Photo of Armidale bollard.
Does anyone have a better photo of the Navigation lights?   They appear to be painted black and do not show up very well.

[derekwarner]

1. citric acid removes flux
2. P&S navigation lights on all RAN vessels have the 90 degree included angle back & side plates as flat black

[Glenedge]

Hi brian
 As Derek says the mount for the light is painted flat black at the back, base and the bit against the bridgewing. The lights are moulded black and are made by Aquasignal if you want to get some more details on them.



Cheers
Glen

[Peter Fitness]

Lovely work, Brian, and great attention to detail

Peter.