Topic: clueless (Read 10724 times)

theyoungboy · « **on:** August 30, 2012, 12:25:33 pm »

I'm building a boat and its going OK i am not building a real boat of scale i just found some planes and started to build
so whats my problem
well I'm thinking of putting motors in it but i an clueless i get the moter propeller ans battrey put servos and other thins i would like to know what i will need and what it does so can you help many thanks in advanced
( i don't want to use a ruder i would like to use 2 motors its is much easier at installing)

essex2visuvesi · « **Reply #1 on:** August 30, 2012, 12:35:15 pm »

first up what kind of boat and what size? this makes a huge difference to the equipment required

theyoungboy · « **Reply #2 on:** August 30, 2012, 12:38:03 pm »

the lenght is about 70 cm and the back ( is that the bow or stern ) comes up if you know what i mean like the titanic

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #3 on:** August 30, 2012, 03:13:35 pm »

Any chance you could post a picture. ?

Welcome to Mayhem. You should find all the help you're gonna need on here.

Norseman · « **Reply #4 on:** August 30, 2012, 03:27:15 pm »

And your local club would be a great source of help for you too

I am so grateful for all the hands on help I have recieved along the way.

Anyway welcome to Mayhem

Dave

dodgy geezer · « **Reply #5 on:** August 30, 2012, 05:12:22 pm »

There's a full thread here: http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=38943.0 helping a newcomer to model boating - providing advice on Radios, motors, servos, escs, the lot.

Without knowing much about your boat it's hard to give advice, but I would suggest that you consider a rudder - the cost of a single engine installation is much less in cash and time and difficulty, and a rudder will provide better maneuverability...

theyoungboy · « **Reply #6 on:** August 30, 2012, 05:20:57 pm »

there we go no i did try to plank it which i did but i had to many gaps so i paper mached it which you may think is crays but it will still work with waterproof paint also im going to add yacht varnish too it and i have already looked at my local boat club but would like to finish it first and thanks for the warm welcome

Netleyned · « **Reply #7 on:** August 30, 2012, 05:38:48 pm »

Wind up methinks
If not, my apologies and welcome.

Ned

theyoungboy · « **Reply #8 on:** August 30, 2012, 05:43:55 pm »

wind up ?? i dont get it you think im joking or some thing??

theyoungboy · « **Reply #9 on:** August 30, 2012, 08:31:54 pm »

is there anyone who can answer my questions

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #10 on:** August 30, 2012, 08:52:18 pm »

Hello again,

The first thing that is noticeable is that you have a centre bar running across the top of deck level. This should be removed and re-fitted along the bottom of the boat to act as a stabilising keel.

Secondly, you are going to need stronger sides to the boat with sturdier materials. Please discount the paper and glue idea as it's not suitable. Your joints are going to be poor and a good waterproofing will be needed. Please have a read up on other members models to get some more ideas as you seem keen to get on and we will help you all we can.

ken

Norseman · « **Reply #11 on:** August 30, 2012, 09:52:10 pm »

and..... is your Super Lamb Banana the one in Liverpool outside the Uni?

Dave

Neil · « **Reply #12 on:** August 30, 2012, 10:02:55 pm »

Quote from: theyoungboy on August 30, 2012, 08:31:54 pm

is there anyone who can answer my questions

the last thing you need to do when asking for help is to put a ticked off smiley after your post young man.......it serves nothing and just gets the backs up of those whom you want to help you.

as is.......another way of strengthening your hull is to use brown paper glued strips.......you can buy it in rolls from stationary shops.

Once you have bought it....lay it on in diagonal strips from top to bottom of the hull, and then once coated./..re strip it with the paper strips running in the opposite diagonal way.....normally done on lifeboat hulls with timber planks, you'll be suprised to find how strong a hull can be made from brown paper strip.

Mad_Mike · « **Reply #13 on:** August 30, 2012, 11:29:13 pm »

paper is not unusual look at the tissue and clear shrinking dope method of sealing a hull. brown paper strips and dope will do the job just fine. To me it seems that the designer of this boat didnt have the intention of including a motor installation, If they had they wouldnt have put that centre bar down the middle blocking all access.

theyoungboy · « **Reply #14 on:** August 31, 2012, 10:12:04 am »

thanks 4 all the help so far an th reason i didnt put it along the bottom is it curves it so to me it made more sense an thanks for the brown paper idea i will try it as i dont want to scrap it because i know it can work yes it will need waterproofing i intend to use waterproof paint then top of with a few coats of yacht varnish

essex2visuvesi · « **Reply #15 on:** August 31, 2012, 10:15:11 am »

make sure you varnish the inside as well

theyoungboy · « **Reply #16 on:** August 31, 2012, 10:17:03 am »

i would like use resin for the inside but carnt find any shops that sell it

essex2visuvesi · « **Reply #17 on:** August 31, 2012, 10:26:10 am »

Halfords sell the resin and hardener, should be with the body repair fillers and fibreglass matting

resin
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_168217_langId_-1_categoryId_165625

Hardener
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_189508_langId_-1_categoryId_165625

You could also lay on some tisse to give it some extra stength on the outside
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_161890_langId_-1_categoryId_165625

theyoungboy · « **Reply #18 on:** August 31, 2012, 11:28:08 am »

thank i shall buy some what does the hardener do ??

dreadnought72 · « **Reply #19 on:** August 31, 2012, 11:35:23 am »

The clue's in the name!

You mix a little of the hardener into a pot of the resin (the quantities that you need of each are given on the products) and it starts a chemical reaction which makes the resin go hard. Typically - though it depends on temperature and the amount of resin you add - you get ten minutes or so before the resin is an unusable, jelly-like, sticky mess of hot gloop.

Can you tell us what plans you used for the hull, please?

Andy

theyoungboy · « **Reply #20 on:** August 31, 2012, 11:50:23 am »

i got the plans from a picture and trace them

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #21 on:** August 31, 2012, 11:54:04 am »

Very impressive. You have the right ideas.

theyoungboy · « **Reply #22 on:** August 31, 2012, 11:56:05 am »

why thanks that makes a 15 year old boy very happy

dodgy geezer · « **Reply #23 on:** August 31, 2012, 01:07:59 pm »

Quote from: theyoungboy on August 31, 2012, 11:50:23 am

i got the plans from a picture and trace them

Maybe I can add a few comments? Unfortunately several will be of the kind "I wouldn't start from here"...

Nowadays, it is very common to buy a whole boat ready-made from China. 10 years ago, it was common to buy the hull ready-formed in something like fibreglass. 30 years ago, it was common to make up hard chine planing hulls from sheets of ply. You are making up a hull using formers and strip covering, from a basic set of lines, in a manner which was common 60 years ago, and which is nowadays considered to be difficult, sophisticated, fiddly and demanding a high level of skill. So that's not normally a technique I would recommend for a person starting to build model boats.

Having said that, it looks to me as if you have cut the bulkhead formers to a very high level of accuracy. Well done! But it looks as if you have then gone on to join and skin them less well. I attribute that to the fact that you have given them very little longitudinal support - just one stringer down the centre at deck level. Boats built using this technique were usually put together upside down on a building board, with a frame jig, or building stock. Here is a picture from a 60-year-old book showing the technique:

You will see that the frames are mounted upside down on the stock, a strong keel is inserted and stringers are run down the sides of the frames in little notches. This produces a very stiff hull which can then be planked with thin wood, card or gummed paper - usually in two layers diagonally, and while still attached to the building board via the stocks. When dry, the hull is lifted out and the top frames are cut away, like this:

Provision would usually be made for a propeller tube through the keel, and usually a motor mount as well. In your case, if you attempted to skin the hull without any further support, it must have been an almost impossible task. I couldn't have managed it! It is hard to see from your pictures how well-formed the hull skin is, but if it is poor, in your case I might be inclined to strip the skin, notch the bulkhead frames for a keel and stringers, and then mount them on some stocks and re-skin. The bulkheads look to be very well shaped, and probably deserve a better skin than they have currently got...

theyoungboy · « **Reply #24 on:** August 31, 2012, 01:27:17 pm »

thanks for your knowledge i want to see if it works my way if not then i will try a dirrent way it is all about experimenting to me

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Author Topic: clueless (Read 10724 times)