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[Neptune2]

Has anybody had any problems with the thunder tiger neptune sub, or anybody know of any mods worth doing!

[Subculture]

The standard boat runs very well. Early models had a few issues, mainly with the electrics, but Thunder Tiger seemed to have ironed out all the gremlins within the first batch of models.

Modifications tend to concentrate on enhancing performance and looks rather than correct any deficiencies.

Most popular mods tend to include upgrading the onboard battery pack, as the standard pack doesn't give you a lot of running time, and replacing the stock prop for one with more pitch and/or blade area to give the boat a bit more speed, as it's a bit of a slug as standard.

Some people tinker with the hydroplanes, but it isn't really necessary- the standard boat handles well. If you go for more speed, a leveller may be handy,and you could also consider dividing control of front and rear hydroplanes (this will mean an additional channel though). 

I think they benefit from a bit of modelling, e.g. adding some scale features, and a decent paint job makes them look less fisher-price like.

[Neptune2]

Hi thanks for the information, i have got the 6 blade propeller fitted that is what came with the model, i bought it second hand of ebay but knew the original owner who had it for sale, looks like it seen the water a couple of times but nothing more than that, i will change the feature of it in time and find a other battery which will last longer, also have on order the camera and fittings required for it, was going to go wireless with the camera but 2.4Ghz does not work well under water so it the video cable being used. Have also changed the radio from the supplied model to a 7 channel 40Mhz and receiver as plan to fit working lights to it. Any  other suggestions welcome.
Happy Sailing

[Subculture]

Some people fit lipos, some fit NiMH's. Either will give you signifcantly longer running times. If you go for lipo, you may need to to tweak the voltage cut off on the ballast switcher.

[U-33]

Once you get used to the Neptune, you'll find they are super boats...I've had three now, and the one I have now is well and truly sorted, and performs flawlessly every time it sees water.


I've tried using it with the stock 'planes, the front 'planes removed, the rear 'planes removed, and to be honest, there's not a lot of difference. It now has a set of Robbe U-47 rear 'planes on the front, and the stock Neptune front 'planes on the rear, and that setup seems to work very well.


As Andy says, the best modification you can make is to swap the original 12v gel cmp.uell for either a set of high capacity niMhs or liPos. I have a pack of 3700a/h niMhs for mine, when this arthritis allows I will swap the batteries over. Another AMS  member, Paul Cook, has a 12v 5000a/h niMhs pack in his, and it seems to run forever.


Mine has had several external modifications made to it(see attached image)and uses a Robbe F-14 radio...I like the slider switches for use with the ballast pump.




Rich

[Neptune2]

Many thanks for the help and advice i have received so far, i do plan to change the batteries to niMhs at a larger not to sure about liPos though as don't you have to charge those in a special heat bag. Would be difficult to charge once in the sub and not to sure either about the pressure with them being underwater. Camera has arrived today with the coupling lead, but no video lead yet as not in stock yuk.
Happy sailing

[Subculture]

I've never bothered with the heatbag.

Been using lipos in model aeroplanes for about a decade now without incident, they're the easiest batteries to look after IMO.

The main thing to remember is always balance charge them, and don't charge them at more than their rated capacity unless it says on the pack you can (some lipos can be charged at upto 5 times their rated capacity).

Also you need to be careful of running them down too low. This doesn't crate a safety issue, it just kills the pack! Use an onboard lipo monitor.

In a nutshell, if you're looking for a easy direct lead acid replacement, then NiMh's will probably be simpler for you. Lipo gives greater capacity and are actually lower in cost.

[Neptune2]

Thanks for the advice, i will look into it further when i get around to sorting the sub out. I have a lot to learn about sub's as my main was the model boats years ago.
Happy sailing

[essex2visuvesi]

If you go for lipo, you may need to to tweak the voltage cut off on the ballast switcher.

How do you "tweak" the LVC? is it the blue pot on the dive controller?

[Subculture]

Not sure. Could probably work it out with a board in front of me. I suspect the voltage comparator is little more than a potential divider feeding into an A/D pin on the boards microcontroller. That may be achieved with fixed or variable resistor.

[essex2visuvesi]

A bit of tinkering with a train set controller and a voltmeter shows the blue pot on the controller board is indeed the LVC.  LVC is now set to "Lipo Friendly"