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[inertia]

PS....did I ever mention that I have a big bag full of Craig Talbots goodies that I have not commissioned yet?...so don't leave town....... ...Derek

I hope you've at least tested them, because they're a little past their warranty period 

I'm pretty sure I posted this photo a while ago but I can't find the thread (OK, OK already.......)
The tiller arms are Robbe items and the 1/16"-thick glassfibre extension arm on the servo is exactly the same length as the tillers between pivot and pushrod.

[Neil]

typical of you Mr Milburn..........you've even filed the ends of the ss rod round.........nothing but perfection, 

[Peter Fitness]

typical of you Mr Milbourn..........you've even filed the ends of the ss rod round.........nothing but perfection, 

Doesn't everyone???


Peter.

[Neil]

Doesn't everyone???


Peter.

EEERRRRR ...........Can I pass on that one...............

[inertia]

typical of you Mr Milburn..........you've even filed the ends of the ss rod round.........nothing but perfection, 

It's not just to make it look pretty, Neil. I've snagged and stabbed my fingers on the burred ends of wire pushrods too often. Rounded ends are also a helluvalot easier to locate the holes in the SLEC connectors with.
See? Not so much a perfectionist - more a short-sighted coward!
DM

[sparkey]

  Hi,guys,just shows that we all approach  problems differently,some great replies here to help us all,I have only one boat with twin rudders,making me think should I change the set up I have now for something different,Ray.    

[Netleyned]

Ray,


If it ain't broke don't fix it 


Ned

[CJ1]

Here's what I used on my 1/12 Tamar lifeboat.
It allows adjustment between the two rudders as well as from servo to rudder. Just the one servo is needed so is very simple.
Chris

[Netleyned]

Single servo with the least mechanical linkage is what you need as Inertia's and CJ1's
setups show.
If you use two servos even matched electronically, there is a different force acting on
each rudder on a turn.
The mechanical linkage is not affected by the different forces.


Ned

[John W E]

hi there
 
theoretically speaking - a closed loop system of linkages where you have a tie bar between the two tiller arms and also 2 push rods from either side of the servo arms connecting to both tillers is the superior method - cos you are balancing the forces either side of the servo - as one side is pushing the other side is pulling - therefore halving the force applied to the servo.
 
Its a bit like riding a pushbike and steering with just one hand and arm where you come to try and turn the corner.
 
Very awkward using one arm cos of the amount of strength you need but a lot better and even when you use 2 hands cos the forces are balanced.   Generally speaking though in models we can get away quite easily using a single pushrod as long as the pushrod is of adequate strength to prevent flexing and the modern servos are fairly strong.
 3 rudder set up shown in pic
aye
john

[Stan]

We all seem to work in different ways so this my way of working using connectors from S L E C. The brass bush is held in place with a spring washer. The push rods are fitted and adjusted then nipped up with a steel screw which is located on the top of the bush. I find it far easier to use these than clevises and glue type connectors. A lesson from my aircraft modelling days. I never use steel push rods only brass. These are my thoughts on this subject and I have no wish to change the way we work. Two pictures showing the set up in my latest build.

Stan

[thething84]

We all seem to work in different ways so this my way of working using connectors from S L E C. The brass bush is held in place with a spring washer. The push rods are fitted and adjusted then nipped up with a steel screw which is located on the top of the bush. I find it far easier to use these than clevises and glue type connectors. A lesson from my aircraft modelling days. I never use steel push rods only brass. These are my thoughts on this subject and I have no wish to change the way we work. Two pictures showing the set up in my latest build.

Stan

Stan. What is the stripboard with the two wires soldered to it for in the second picture please?? I am curious.
 
Thanks
James

[Stan]

HI James. The strip board is for the stern running light. If you look in warships and military see Stan's last post you can see the model it is fitted in hope this helps.

Stan. {:-{now

[thething84]

Sorry Stan forgot all about thiss 
I assume it a contact plate, SO when you put deck and superstructure on it contacts with the strip board.

[Stan]

Hi James the copper track is for the rear stern light. The two cables in the picture go back to a quad switch supplied by Action and a resistor is fitted in line between the switch and the copper track. Cables from the stern light are fitted to copper track allowing the stern light to be turned on using your trannie. No circuits are made just fitting the rear hatch cover  hope this helps.


Stan.
Kirklees Model Boat Club. {:-{now