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[dave parker]

How do you all cut out your ply shapes for hull and ribs, and frames etc

Can you give me a description of what you do?

I have a sander, thinking about getting a scroll saw or band saw, have got a jigsaw, but still cant see how you all get such straight tidy cuts in your work?

For example, I am currently planning a springer build, so, for cutting out the two sides out of 6mm ply wood.....

what would you do? how would you do it? In what order?

Same for the frames on other scratch built hulls, tell me your routines??

Cheers people! 

[Big Ada]

I just use a Fine toothed Hand Saw or a Tenon Saw.

Len.

[dave parker]

Thanks Len

I appreciate you taking the time to answer 

Is it possible to be quite accurate like that? What about curves?

I take it you get close then sand to your line?

[Martin (Admin)]

The Springer tug was designed to be as simple as possible, a normal hand saw will do most of the cuts for you, just take you time and let the saw do the work.

Don't go out and buy a band saw just yet, (use someone else's, if you know someone, with one!) for your first model, a cheap jigsaw will do. (edit)
Again take you time and let the saw do the work, i.e. move it up-and-down, don't try to push it through the wood.

"Practice makes perfect."

[Ian K]

Hi Dave,

Hand held electric jig saws are fine for this work. Just have clear marked lines to follow, cut to the outside of the line, then just sand off the excess to the marks.
For best results, clamp the sheet of ply to a work bench and take it slow and steady.

I have a band saw and circular saw, but still use the hand held jig saw for cutting out my curved frames.

Ian

[ChrisF]

I'm interested in this  thread as my intention is to construct a boat myself in the future and need to build up a knowledge of the best way of doing things.

For thinner ply i.e. 3mm can an electric jigsaw still be used or is it better to cut by hand?

With the thinner and thicker (3 and 6mm) ply is there much danger of surface breakage or is it minimised by use of a fine saw?

I've been working my way through other threads including the one on scroll and band saws.

Thanks, Chris

[Brian60]

I used to use handtools or a bandsaw and scrollsaw for big parts.

Now I just use the plan scanned into Coreldraw - trace the parts and send them for cutting on my laser cutter However not many people own these but its not a drawback, you can do the plan bit in the computer, get all your parts assembled in a file saved to pendrive or even email. Then have them cut by a commercial laser cutter. The best part about doing it this way is you are not limited to size, most commercial outfits can accomodate sizes up to 2400mm x 1200mm (8ft x 4ft) sheet. Small lasers for use at home can only manage up to A3 paper size without costing £££££££'s.

There is a member on the forum who may be able to help out with cutting files (not me I live in Spain) Carl at Linkspan Models was talking about offering such a service last year. Nice thing is a Laser gives you perfectly straight cuts everytime, what you have on the puter is exactly what you get cut out.

[Ian K]

Hi,

I use metal cutting jig saw blades, the finer the tooth count the better.
This helps to reduce the splintering/chipping on the surface faces. The same goes for band and circular saw blades too.

Thicknesses of 1.5mm or less can be cut well with good quality Stanley knife blades. A new blade edge per cut gives the best results.

I also try to use the best quality A + resin bonded plywoods. Personally, I have never rated lite ply for marine model use. I know this comment may be a contentious issue with fellow boat modellers on this site. But from personal experience, long term structural integrity is key for a strong long lasting model......in my experience anyway!

These methods and material choices are just my preferences. They work for me, and have done for about 30 years of model and full size boat building.

Hope this helps a bit

Ian

[dave parker]

Thanks all,very interesting comments 

Please keep themcoming

I feel i am nervous about starting as i am not 100% certain of what to do....

PS ChrisF I think we are in the same position,thanks for your input!

[Shipmate60]

With the framing and almost square shape you can use thinner side panels which would be easier to cut and sand.


Bob

[dave parker]

Am i allowed to quote another builders build as an example asto why i am asking the question?

This build by Missyd is a good example of how i want to undetstand how to cut out really good frames?

http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,45601.25.html

amazing!!!

[Martin (Admin)]

I use metal cutting jig saw blades, the finer the tooth count the better.

Ian

Clever!      .... and for best results, always use new / sharp blades.

[ballastanksian]

Tape both the side pieces together and cut them at the same time, then they will be of identical shape.

A good rule of thumb (that goes againt all rational hobbyists sensibilities) is to only buy a tool when you need it as then you can better budget and buy the right tool and not necessarily the cool tool. Bandsaws are great but you need somewhere to sit them and remember, no matter how big the bandsaw is, you will find jobs that are too big for it!

[Jonty]

  Re jigsaw blades: have a look at the German MPS range. Some are hollow ground and cut much more cleanly than conventional blades.

[essex2visuvesi]

You may find a good quality hand fret saw easier than a an electric jigsaw in the beginning. Far easier to control and see what you are doing. Also it's doesn't hurt as much if you catch your fingers!

[Nemo]

Hi Dave. If you want a hand jigsaw -  I use the Parkside Modelling Jigsaw, bought from Lidl some months ago and found it the ideal tool for frame-cutting and almost anything requiring a fine finish. It is light and easy to use, it has a 5-speed control and the blade is only 3mm deep, finer than the usual jigsaw blade. Cheap too. You may have to order direct from Parkside Tools, rather than wait for it to arrive at your local store.  As others have said, start with a slow speed and take your time until you get the hang of it. Although not really necessary for Springer construction, I recommend this tool for your other projects.
Bob.