Topic: The Art of Models Irene (Read 73100 times)

hammer · « **Reply #50 on:** February 23, 2017, 11:48:34 am »

John my second paddler build can be seen on paddelducks you will have to log in to see the pictures. forum, construction, page2, then Duke of Devonshire. 24 pages plenty to see had over 91,000 hits. Proud or what. http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php or this my work
http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=5011.0

hammer · « **Reply #51 on:** February 24, 2017, 12:02:18 pm »

Only 3 more strakes left to do per side. Planks flowing nicely at the stern, and I have done the stealer at the bow. Someone may be wondering what am I going to do when I can't get clamps on? String around the hull and wedges.
But I want a change, so made a kit for the windlass.

hammer · « **Reply #52 on:** February 26, 2017, 02:52:56 pm »

26th started planking on 20th so only 5 play times ( no play Saturday ). But play today Sunday, no racing this week.
The best plank the last going in. Measure the plank with divider on each frame. As I said earlier I don't follow the spacing exactly only near the end. Some sanding & filling done, not to much as I want to show the planks. Although a half inch wouldn't show to this scale, but the planks on the original are quite pronounced. So I will try to do as an artist painting a brick house will do, not paint every brick, just a few & suggest the rest.

hammer · « **Reply #53 on:** February 27, 2017, 03:15:26 pm »

Sanded & filled the visible cracks then took an hour to clean up the dust & shavings. Coated the inside with resin a good way to find & cure any leaks. Stuck masking tape over the leaks temporary to seal.
Fitted the drop keel & rudder to find the height for the carrying handle, this rest on the keel box when fully extended. The rod can be seen above the hull on left. After cutting to length drilled & tapped to take a 5mm screw, retaining the wooden handle ( needs tidying.) The dinner bell rang, well the bang on the floor. So gave the outside a quick & thin coat of white emulsion, more filling & sanding tomorrow.

hammer · « **Reply #54 on:** February 28, 2017, 03:53:23 pm »

Ran out of filler so made some from Artex mixed with P.V.A., having to wait for it to dry.
Made the masts dowel, taper planed down then sanded in the lathe. Arial embedded in the mizzen mast, ( still on 40 megs ). All my receiver aerials are cut 9" long so I know the length of the extension what ever one I use. You will notice the hounds the mast are not parallel, done deliberately. This is to help miss the square yard crane, (if I fit one) as I will need to lower the top mast loading in car.
One dead eye, only another 31 to go. Aluminium as you can see, I don't have any wood close grain enough to hold together this small. Notice packing on one jaw making the hole off centre. Using three jaw chuck to position holes. Bit of a long job, position the rod on the packing, centre drill, remove, drill 1.9mm hole, reposition & repeat for each hole. Cut grove with parting tool, & part off. Can only drill a maximum depth for 3 as drill tends to wander after this. So have to start again.
Assembled the windlass & made a bell with a clapper.

hammer · « **Reply #55 on:** March 01, 2017, 04:34:40 pm »

Cut the hatches. Reinstalled the motor and servos. Had to move the rear servo to the main hatch as I couldn't get it in without cutting the side of the opening. Must be able to remove all moving parts or they will fail. Made the bowsprit & mounted the mast. Using 2 levels to make sure mast are in line & perpendicular. Any one got any thing to say, I know you are looking. R.G.Y.

hammer · « **Reply #56 on:** March 06, 2017, 09:08:24 am »

Arms on the servos, and the sheet runs under the deck installed. I normally use plastic fuel tube could only get silicone tube this time. Not so good as It is a lot more flexible, and gluing the ends a bit of a problem. Wire threaded through to pull cord later.
The carrying handle may have to be removed to get the hatch on when on display. We will see it will be touch and go.
Derek, Answer from other thread, I didn't know Captain Jimmy, unfortunately.

hammer · « **Reply #57 on:** March 07, 2017, 01:59:22 pm »

My method for control of the rudder, springs. The number of times I have hit the rudder loading the models in the car and damaging the controls!! numerous. Now the springs take the shock.
Sub deck fixed and planks ready, supplied by well known fast food & coffee houses.
Made kits for the deck houses, the side shown at the bottom upside down to show chamfered corners. Motor shed on left. Plane ply roofs.
My pilot cutter just unpacked not sailed for two years As lost club lake and the new pond not big enough for a 16th scale boat with no motor. I am going to sail in our river , with a bit of luck, can only sail three quarters hour each side of high tide, can reach 10 knots on the ebb. Sprayed sails with water hopefully the creases will fall out. Speak to me.

JayDee · « **Reply #58 on:** March 07, 2017, 07:42:41 pm »

Hello Robert,

The springs in the Rudder linkage are a good idea !!.
I will have to give them a try on my boats.

John.

ballastanksian · « **Reply #59 on:** March 07, 2017, 08:28:13 pm »

This is an excellent build and also a great store of tips Robert. The divider idea (probably as old as the hills but new to me) is inspired and bother free.

As Jay Dee said, the spring rudder control linkages are a great idea.

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #60 on:** March 08, 2017, 10:42:50 am »

I also like the SPRINGS idea. What a brilliant idea, especially for transporting it around.

Well done Sir.

ken

hammer · « **Reply #61 on:** March 08, 2017, 04:34:05 pm »

Thanks all three of you for speaking to me, it tells me I'm not wasting my time on the computer.
The springs need to be quite strong. Obviously a pair or one cut in half, as in my case.
Gluing the deck house, lay it flat masking tape on the outside, glue on chamfer, fold square and hold. View of finished joint.
Laid the cover boards and another coat of paint.
Mystery photo, answer soon, there is a clue in one of the photos.

derekwarner · « **Reply #62 on:** March 08, 2017, 09:38:04 pm »

Ahhhh. setting of the shrouds RGY?...we see a series of angled references marked on the deck

How do you establish these?......take the centre shroud an reference and vertical line from the tip of the mast?, then position another shroud line on either side? [or just copy from an image of the original vessel?]

This may sound simple, however for the mainsail, you have a 5th shroud line marking going aft of the main 4??

I am sure you will know what I mean as my yachting knowledge

is near zero

Derek

derekwarner · « **Reply #63 on:** March 09, 2017, 12:09:15 am »

..."we see a series of angled references marked on the ~~deck~~"... sorry, side of the hull ...

...Derek

hammer · « **Reply #64 on:** March 09, 2017, 09:31:20 am »

Yes Derek those are the chain plate alignment marks. I forgot to mention that I had marked them in when the masts where in position. Down from the hounds on the main & three quarters the way up the mizzen. They must be inline with each shroud. The fifth one at a shallow angel is the backstay.
The mystery photo will be revealed soon.

hammer · « **Reply #65 on:** March 09, 2017, 02:09:55 pm »

The mystery picture is two strips of balsa with rubber stuck between. Rubber from a windscreen wiper which split. Did anyone notice the extra hatch in the bow. Just in case I need access for ballast or the cable runs need attention. Rubber seal now fitted.
Lining up the centre planks (only front one shown) with a string line. So when I clear deck house & hatches there will be a straight line.
Also made 32 dead eye. Hurray.

hammer · « **Reply #66 on:** March 10, 2017, 04:52:32 pm »

Assembled the deck house, still a bit to do, sort doors, rest for mizzen boom, skylights & paint.
All the spars are now shaped, ( three artist brushes & a pencil.) fittings to make. In between all those deck planks!! Mod only 9 spars in photo should be 11. main mast, top mast, mizzen mast, bowsprit, staysail boom, main boom, mizzen boom, main gaff, mizzen gaff, main jack yard, & mizzen jack yard.

hammer · « **Reply #67 on:** March 13, 2017, 04:57:51 pm »

Made a mistake with the staysail boom, I picked it up and used it for the mizzen boom. that's why I was one spar short, all sorted now.
Had a change of plan with the deckhouse glazing. With the kit I made the intension was, cut out the windows & stick the clear plastic on the back. I normally use pop bottles for this, being bent it needs a backing. But S.W.M.B.O. bought some fish in a flat plastic tray, unfortunately she had washed it otherwise the boat would have smelt of the sea. I cut a square laid it on top of the pattern & stuck veneer to it. Much better as the glass is the correct distance in. Photo of pattern.

hammer · « **Reply #68 on:** March 14, 2017, 01:00:31 pm »

Plodding on with the deck planks, notching in to the cover board takes the time. I use marker pen to simulate the pitch in joints. I have found it better to only mark one side of the joint. Notice the centre plank I did both sides to much. Will improve when scraped, using a hard back razor blade for this. Neighbour gave me 1,000, should see me out.
The free planks have to be closely inspected for straightness & width.

hammer · « **Reply #69 on:** March 15, 2017, 05:03:11 pm »

Still plodding on. In between started blocks 40 required, first stage glue cross pieces to strip, the excess trimmed off later. far to fiddly to glue the right length. The double blocks have an aluminium strip in the middle later.
Very thin light ply wound & glued around tube, for mast hoops.

ballastanksian · « **Reply #70 on:** March 15, 2017, 10:17:28 pm »

I like the joggling on your deck planking Hammer

Did you use elderly brush handles or buy cheap ones and re-purpose? That is another good idea saving time shaping dowel to shape.

Don't worry about feedback, I am sure your topic is being read by many, the views number will tell you how much you are giving to the forum membership, especially when you add tips like the spring linkages

hammer · « **Reply #71 on:** March 16, 2017, 05:20:54 pm »

ballastanksian, you obviously don't know me, I try not to buy anything. So the brushes old & worn out. Your mention of the joggling made me think some one may like to know how I do it. I place the plank in position over the covering board, mark the edge where it crosses the covering board, at the point come into the covering board. In this model about 3/32" ( depends on scale) straight line between these points & cut. Place the plank back in position cut the covering board down the side of the plank with a scalpel. Being very careful not to slice a finger. Nice to hear from you, not from far away ether.
Have enough mast hoops for the mizzen. more to cut for the main, cut slices with a razor saw, when on a mandrel,( in this case a pluming fitting wrapped with tape). Other wise it will collapse, after every cut I apply super glue to the end. A photo of the main model there are lots of bits made as well.

derekwarner · « **Reply #72 on:** March 16, 2017, 10:39:05 pm »

It's OK Ian......our friend RGY is well known as a model builder of great resourceful manner, utilizing any materials he can lay his hands upon

Coffee stirrers from Mc Donies are a great favourite

He is such a spend thrift

...he has a small glass jar on the fireplace mantle with the 'sixpence' from his first wage pay packet way back in 1959

You will realise this coin bears the image of the very young Monarch QEII..................Derek

hammer · « **Reply #73 on:** March 17, 2017, 04:07:12 pm »

Thank you Derek you know me so well. Haven't found any use for cider cans in this build.
But I was paid £1, 1 shilling & nine pence for my first wage, had to give my mum 10 shillings. I never got an Australian six pence & the date was 1955 not 1959.
One more line of planks starboard side then sand & scrape, this has been done in yellow circle.
Forward hatch now you see it now you don't. Batteries & receiver going in here. I was sure I needed to get in the space. The companionway ( square not planked ) will hide the radio & motor switches.

hammer · « **Reply #74 on:** March 18, 2017, 03:47:42 pm »

I am away for a few days. I have made very small hinges for other models, if anyone is interested, tell me and I will show you how. If not I will continue with Irene when I return. R.G.Y.

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Author Topic: The Art of Models Irene (Read 73100 times)