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Author Topic: Hunter's moon build  (Read 16078 times)

DaveM

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #125 on: June 04, 2020, 11:00:51 pm »

You'll have bought the Anglian Models version of the kit, produced after Balsacraft/Ripmax sold on the rights to them. They also bought the die-tools but hadn't much of a clue how to use them. In consequence the tools quickly became distorted and clogged up and the parts which they produced became less like they should have been.  All very sad.
DaveM
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radiojoe

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #126 on: June 04, 2020, 11:09:38 pm »



Hi Chris,  it's from CMB look under strip woods in various sizes I used  6mm x .5mm  no didn't steam or wet it. I chose it because I thought it looked similar to Teak.


Dave I don't doubt that everything apart from the hull was really bad quality it would never had made a decent model. {:-{

Joe
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ChrisF

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #127 on: June 04, 2020, 11:38:45 pm »

Thanks Joe.

Chris
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radiojoe

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #128 on: June 05, 2020, 04:42:49 pm »

So before I get too involved with the painting I thought I would fashion some handrails so they can be painted with the roof, I don't want them to stand out too much, the decks have now been sealed with thinned varnish ,  so now for the paint job.


Joe
« Last Edit: June 05, 2020, 04:45:00 pm by radiojoe »
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ChrisF

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #129 on: June 05, 2020, 07:04:39 pm »

Hi Joe

Hope you don't mind all the questions! I'm putting together a list of what I need to plank the deck etc. What thickness of mahogany have you used, yours looks slightly thicker than the 0.5mm planking? I've found it in 0.5mm and 0.8mm but only 100mm wide which means that I would have to make the bow part in 3 pieces. Is this what you have done (can't see any joins!) or did you find some wider sheet?

Cheers, Chris
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radiojoe

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #130 on: June 05, 2020, 07:53:55 pm »


Hi Chris  no don't mind at all mate,, the mahogany was 100mm x 1.5mm x 900mm and 5mm x 1.5 mm x 900 mm,  the sub deck was 0.8mm birch ply all from Slec and the planks Tanganyka  6mm x 0.5mm x 900mm from CMB, I couldn't find anything thinner than 1mm from Slec so got the planking from CMB, the Mahogany bow piece is done in two pieces there is a joint down the king plank,, the edge capping is cut to shape from the 100mm Mahogany not bent and the edge of the capping's is the 5mm x 1.5mm so the sub deck of 0.8mm and the planks of 0.5mm make 1.3mm so is just lower than the 1.5mm capping's hope all this makes sense Chris.


Joe
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ChrisF

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #131 on: June 05, 2020, 09:23:10 pm »



Thanks for the detailed response Joe, much appreciated.



Is the mahogany sheet 0.5mm or 1.5mm thick? If the latter it will be 1.0mm deeper than the planking? I had assumed it was 0.8mm thick i.e. slighter thicker than the planks as the king plank looks to be slightly above the planks with a notch in the front window.

The width of the bow piece is just over 200mm in my 1:12 model so I had assumed in your 1:11 that it would be even wider, so two pieces of mahogany sheet butted together is only going to be 200mm, so not wide enough?

Chris
« Last Edit: June 05, 2020, 09:47:22 pm by ChrisF »
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Capt Podge

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #132 on: June 05, 2020, 09:38:48 pm »

Hiya Joe, that decking looks great and I especially like the way you've tackled the capping, I just wish I hadn't started mine before seeing yours first  :embarrassed: .
Looking good mate.  :-))


Chris, that's the same problem as I had - ended up with having to insert the extra width both fore and aft  >:-o
If it's not too late, I would follow Joe's route.  O0


Regards,
Ray.
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ChrisF

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #133 on: June 05, 2020, 09:51:39 pm »

Hi Ray

I was originally going to plank the deck but then decided to get it laser etched but after seeing how you and Joe have tackled it decided to go back to planking.

Chris
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radiojoe

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #134 on: June 05, 2020, 10:04:49 pm »

Chris the mahogany is 1.5mm thick don't forget I used a 0.5 plank and a 0.8 sub deck making 1.3mm as for the width of the bow you make the scarf joints at a point on the bow that is a tab under 200mm. scarf joints are much better than butt joints as they are harder to see. 
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ChrisF

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #135 on: June 05, 2020, 10:55:32 pm »

Thanks Joe


Oh I see, the mahogany doesn't sit on the sub-deck then? I was confused because in an earlier photo it showed the sub-deck covering the whole of the deck area and had assumed that the bow-piece sat on it. Further confused by a later photo with the bow-piece fitted and the sub-deck continues behind where the scarf joint is. Was a strip of the sub-deck then removed to take the 1.5mm mahogany?


That's interesting because where your scarf joint is my hull is 203mm wide and my model is 1:12 so should be narrower than yours. No problem as I can move the joint forward so that the overall width is less than 200mm.
Sorry, we'll get there in the end!

Chris
« Last Edit: June 05, 2020, 11:06:15 pm by ChrisF »
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radiojoe

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #136 on: June 05, 2020, 11:04:31 pm »


This photo is when the Mahogany capping was glued in place and a paper pattern was made to cut the sub deck to fit the planking to.


Joe.
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ChrisF

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #137 on: June 05, 2020, 11:17:01 pm »

Thanks for your patience Joe

Ok, got it now! Didn't realise there is in fact 2 sub-decks. One that covers the whole of the deck and then one that sits inside the mahogany bow-piece and side pieces for the planking to sit on.

Chris
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radiojoe

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #138 on: June 06, 2020, 10:56:31 am »

Ok Chris, I probably confused you by calling the 0.8 ply that the planks are bonded to a "sub deck" maybe  secondary deck may have been better, the Mahogany detail at the bow I just put the scarf joints at a position where the measurement was 200mm, you could do it in three pieces, I just thought the less joints the better.


Joe
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ChrisF

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #139 on: June 06, 2020, 01:06:43 pm »

Hi Joe

I'm easily confused!

Less joints definitely better! I've now realised though that I'm probably going to have to do it directly on the boat as I've put a camber in the deck. So will use thinner mahogany to match the planks with both going on the sub-deck. Otherwise I will follow your method as it looks great.

Chris
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radiojoe

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #140 on: June 06, 2020, 02:31:39 pm »

I wouldn't worry too much about the camber Chris, I've got a camber in mine and because the planked area is in two halves they fit without a problem, when you think about it as the planks are longitudinal it's only the 0.8mm ply that has to bend and it dose that easily.


Joe
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ChrisF

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #141 on: June 06, 2020, 04:56:02 pm »

Ok, thanks Joe, I'd certainly like to do it off the model.

Cheers, Chris
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radiojoe

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #142 on: June 07, 2020, 04:39:45 pm »

Well all masked up and got the primer coats done to hull and cabins, leaving it till tomorrow now to cure before a light rub down and then the top coats, spray painting has never been My best subject but I'll do the best I can.  :embarrassed:


Joe
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DaveM

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #143 on: June 07, 2020, 05:13:27 pm »

Joe
Rattle-cans are no big mystery. I've been using them for yonks now and some folk say that my finishes look quite reasonable in the right light....  8)
There are a few rules to follow, though. The first thing is not to spray if the temperature is less than about 15C. Then:
1) Shake the can for 2 minutes before spraying and shake it again every 30 seconds or so while spraying:
2) Hold the can between 8"-12" from the model:
3) Move the spray cone along the model in one smooth movement, starting the spray just before you hit the start of the model and spraying until you've just passed the end:
4) Apply LIGHT, EVEN coats only, resisting the temptation to see what it wil look like fully-covered! Yeah - we've all done that...  Allow 15-20 minutes between coats:
5) If you DO get sags or runs then LEAVE THEM TO DRY FULLY. You'll then find that most of the mess was solvent and has evaporated, leaving a relatively low "blob" of pigment which you can rub down. If you attempt to wipe it off while it's wet then you'll make a much worse mess:
6) When you've added as many coats as you need, leave the model to dry for at least 24 hours in a warm place. To check if it's fully set, shove your nose right up against it and have a good sniff. If there's even a trace of the smell of solvent then leave it for another 24 hours.
I always maintain that the worst enemy of spraying is impatience.
I hope this helps.
DaveM


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radiojoe

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #144 on: June 07, 2020, 05:47:42 pm »

Ho I know how to spray them Dave it's the last bit the impatience that I have to master  :embarrassed: {-)


Joe.
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DaveM

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #145 on: June 07, 2020, 06:26:45 pm »

PM sent, Joe.  :-))
DM
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radiojoe

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #146 on: June 08, 2020, 04:48:08 pm »

Got most of the painting done today, just got the cabin sides to paint blue, I'm going to leave for a day or so to cure then I'll mask off the window frames and roof to do the cabin sides, not sure yet whether to leave the window frames gloss white or paint them silver to look something like alloy, I had a spare pair of brass props I put on to see what brass would look like these are 30mm, yes I know they are Destroyer props but I may try them out before I get the planned 40mm props just to see how they perform.
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Capt Podge

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #147 on: June 08, 2020, 05:08:51 pm »

Neat looking paint job Joe.


She'll probably fly with those props  %%


Regards,
Ray.
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radiojoe

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #148 on: June 08, 2020, 05:46:09 pm »


Thanks Ray, I had planned on 40mm props, but remembered I had these in the odds and ends box so thought I just as well try them first.




Joe
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radiojoe

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Re: Hunter's moon build
« Reply #149 on: June 09, 2020, 02:32:17 pm »

While the paint is curing I've been pottering about with the water slide transfers, I'm a lot happier with these than the vinyl lettering I used before that never really looked right no matter how careful I was I always got a letter or two slightly crooked, these water slides are well worth the effort and expense. ok2




Joe
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