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[missyd]

I am wondering if somebody has built a model ship in metal. I was thinking of tinplate/copper/brass.
Would be arounf 1/24 scale trawler with steel a hull over 1-1.4m long....any suggestion where I can inform me how to build it?

[Colin Bishop]

Soldering hulls using tinplate was a method which was used in the 1950s wnen other materials were in short supply. There were examples in the issues of Model Maker and Model Engineer magazines at the time but this method of construction has generally fallen out of use since.

This link of an article published by John Cundell, a previous Editor of Model Boats does provide some useful information which you may find helpful.

https://www.modelboats.co.uk/news/article/model-shipbuilding-in-steel/480

Colin

[John W E]

hi there


Tin plate hulls have been around from about the 1890s - there are a few very old models made from tin plate at the Model Boat Club I belong too.   The one in the photograph is, I think, built in the early 1950s from old tins (the ones that baby milk used to come in) and I believe it was constructed over a wooden plug and once the tin plate had been shaped and soldered (so you had a complete hull) the internal bulkheads and stiffenings were then soldered in place.  Obviously, they were then well painted and what have you. 


No doubt you could do exactly the same by constructing a wooden plug to mould sections of tin plate around.


When I next speak with Bob at the club I will ask him if he knows of any books about construction of tin plate models - or no doubt if Steamboat Phil reads this - he will be able to advise you - he used to or still has tin plate models.


John

[DBS88]

Hi, have been experimenting with tin plate construction, I salvaged some biscuit tins at Xmas and have been cutting them into thin strips, folding them to make angle iron, then practicing making a lattice mast. I am new to this so its a skill that needs patience and practice but its very satisfying. I have been inspired by the work of Norman Ough, there is a book with a lot of his drawings and work in steel called The Life and Ship Models of Norman Ough, well worth a read before you start. Heres a photo of my practice piece to, the finished item will have more than one hundred individual elements, this one is just to find out how to build the real one.

[coch y bonddu]

Steam boat Phil actually does own a steam powered tug and if memory serves me rightly was built in the 50's possibly earlier and believe you me it weighs a ton it is darned heavy




Dave

[derekwarner]

The link to Modelboats posted by Colin is a must to read again & again ....however two areas of need for understanding is firstly the calculation and subsequent drawing of the Hull Expansion plates [is self explanatory]


https://www.modelboats.co.uk/news/article/model-shipbuilding-in-steel/480


The second is a good supply of tight fitting Pig Skin hand gloves  ......trying to use Welders leather gauntlets is next to useless as your hands natural dexterous manipulation of fingers is lost with slippery [dry] Tinplate....[steel with a few micron of Tin [Sn] plated to both sides

Without gloves, even a very generous supply of Mercurchrome  + Band-Aid Strips also creates the same useless handling as with the Welders gauntlets

[freshly cut/cropped/sheared Tin-Plate sheet is razor sharp. ........corroded Tin-Plate [from Bakers Soldering Fluid] is razor sharp & a can cause Tetanus if the cuts are not washed then treated with great care]

Derek

[PS....many years ago, I remember the Ladies at the Inspection Stations of the Tin-Plate Department of the Port Kembla Steel Works wearing those tight fitting Pig Skin hand gloves as they flipped each sheet of Plate ]

[missyd]

Thanks a lot for all this very useful ideas and links. I think I just must have a modelship in metal that really rusts on the right places. I may be another huge Cornelia Marie with a length of over 2m or a nice trawler from brittany....lets do some research first....

[missyd]

Hi, have been experimenting with tin plate construction, I salvaged some biscuit tins at Xmas and have been cutting them into thin strips, folding them to make angle iron, then practicing making a lattice mast. I am new to this so its a skill that needs patience and practice but its very satisfying. I have been inspired by the work of Norman Ough, there is a book with a lot of his drawings and work in steel called The Life and Ship Models of Norman Ough, well worth a read before you start. Heres a photo of my practice piece to, the finished item will have more than one hundred individual elements, this one is just to find out how to build the real one.

I ordered the mentioned book second hand.The lattice mast is a beauty!!!

[raflaunches]

My Dad is currently restoring an old brass plate model for an old RAF friend. He is finding it interesting as it was just the metal left, the wood had rotted years ago. The hull was surprisingly intact with a few dents here and there. I’ve attached some pictures of the restoration so far.

[SteamboatPhil]

I do indeed have several very large tinplate /brass models in my collection from the 1930's and the 1950's. One of the very early pioneers in tin plate hull was Ted Vanner, who's most famous steam powered boat was called "All Alone" built around 1924 (if memory is correct) this was built as a straight (free) running craft and had a 3 cylinder steam plant. The engine was replaced in 19770 by Alan Rayman and the boat is still in regular use today (well it will be back running as soon as we can get back into the water.
As has been said these hulls were made over a wooden former, with the "plates" being gently combed and curved, Ted Vanner used to ease them over his Knee and slightly (by working the plates) stretching them to  lay perfectly onto the mould with out (very important) forcing them to mate with the previous plate.
Hope this helps a little

[ballastanksian]

A book I have is 'Scale Model Warships'. This is a collection of articles edited by John Bowen and ISBN 0 85177 170 X. Included is an article on Tinplate Construction by H. T. N. Batchelor. He described building a rivetted style hull with overlapping strakes.


He also recommended using Fluxite both as flux for soldering and also to lubricate wooden formers and forming tools, as use of other lubricants left residues that might inhibit soldering and be difficult to remove.


He did not recommend corrosive fluxes as their residues would eat the metal over time especially in hard to get areas.


The book is worth having as it has good descriptions and diagrams for making fittings and such like.

[missyd]

Wow very nice hull!!!!
I also ordered the book "scale model warships"... they cost very little money second hand...