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[wrasse]

Can anyone recommend which type of glues would be used to adhere white metal fittings to each other. I am beginning a build of Mountfleets Boston Typhoon and have tried superglue but they do not appear to be overly effective at holding this material together..Thanks

[derekwarner]

The interface between both whitematal faces needs to be extremely uniform and flat for any Supaglue to securely bond them......




Conversely you may still need to get the two surfaces entirely flat, then roughen them up a little, again sand back, spray with IPA, let evaporate and use a small amount of a  2 x Part Metal Epoxy....and gently secure with minimal pressure via elastic bands



The latter processes will provide a secure load bearing joint if the surfaces were adequately roughened to provide that micro surface in both parts  for the epoxy to adhere to


Aradalite [brand] epoxy is an excellent slow curing epoxy, however when cured produces a waxy external surface, hence the recommendation of the Metal Epoxy


I have little faith in any cyanoacrylate glue for general model engineering work....the only exception is using the glue as a 'tack welding' medium


Derek   

[Fred Ellis]

 
I would go along with derekwarner you must have a good clean and flat service to work with in the first place.
As for myself I do not get on so good with two part glues so I use super glue and so far all has be O.K( I just may be lucky) just don't glue any item to a painted service as all yo are doing is gluing the item to the paint and not to the model.


Fred

[Subculture]

You'll find white metal fitting bond and accept paint much better if you etch them first. A dunking in some ferric chloride for a brief time until the surface goes a uniform dark grey, then a quick in water will fill the surface with millions of tiny pock marks, which the glue can cling to.

[Colin Bishop]

I prefer not to rely 100% on glue to attach most fittings, it's always nice to have a mechanical bond as well. I drill into the mounting suface of the fitting and glue in a metal pin which is then insertd into a corresponding hole in the model and again glued in.

It is very easy for fittings to be inadvertently knocked off and if it happens due to a collision on the pond thn you have lost them forever.

Colin

[Buccaneer]

I suggest Gorilla Clear Glue. You put a coat of Gorilla on one piece, dampen the other piece, then clamp overnight. I experimented with two short pieces of 5 mm square aluminium when I first got the glue. Cannot get them apart now.
John

[tonyH]

Mobile Marine Models sell a pack of 3 superglues, thin, medium and thick, that they recommend for their white metal winches etc. Seems to do the job well but I'll report back in a couple of years.

[Colin Bishop]

For fitting to fitting joints I would agree with Tony as long as you are not allergic to superglue as I am. Alternatively use a dab of 5 minute epoxy.

Subculture is right in saying it is best to etch them if possible. Failing that it is absolutely essential to give them a good clean using strong detergent to remove the waxy residue from the moulding process. If you have not done that then that's what might be the problem. I use an old toothbrush to scrub them in a strong washing up liquid solution then rinse in clean water and leave to dry.

Colin

[ballastanksian]

I agree. Wash, clean and fettle the surfaces to glue before putting together, and a physical join with rod is also wise. I fit nearly all my warship fittings with a physical pin and glue so I know where they go. If the Superglue doesn't work even on clean metal then it might be getting old as it does have a finite life, basically thin turns to medium and then thicker but not with the stickiness.

[justboatonic]

If you have super glued anything together in error or want to separate super glued items. Put then in a placcie bag and put them in the freezer for 24 hours. You then have to be fairly quick doing the next bit.
Take them out of the freezer and placcie bag and using two hands, snap the items apart along the joint line. The time in the freezer makes the glued joint brittle and once you have the knack, separating parts is easy. My lad had loads of those wargamer figures and tank things. Bag them in the freezer and you can break them down into component parts, strip the paint of them and glue them back together again.