Topic: Billing Boats Hoga no. 708 (Read 24602 times)

Taranis · « **Reply #75 on:** April 11, 2021, 05:02:17 pm »

So with internet pictures as a guide I now have snorkel vents on starboard side also.
This picture shows the bow is not ballasted and the bow is well out of the water.

RST · « **Reply #76 on:** April 11, 2021, 05:16:43 pm »

For me I think this is a benefit of a prototype which changed along the way. Nobody is going to say after it's not right. My kind of modelling anyway!

It's also interesting to see the different layouts and fittings between different countries.

Black hull, grey tops would look good against the many all grey US military tugs but then I guess I'm a bit biased as that's how I did my Loyal Class tender.

You should send a pic or two to Billings at the end!

Taranis · « **Reply #77 on:** April 11, 2021, 05:21:04 pm »

Billing see all my pictures Rich I'm a moderator on their official builders group but you dotedoo Farcebook

I'm part thinking of doing the antifoul coat and clear coating the rest.

FYI the group grows daily and is now heading towards 3 thousand members, the majority are building or want to build a billing kit.
There are always problems with interpretation of instructions and this is where builders helping builders is a big winner.

Stephen 24601 · « **Reply #78 on:** April 12, 2021, 09:23:24 pm »

Quote from: Taranis on April 09, 2021, 10:10:55 am

Try this....
https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/bb000001.pl?WD=waterproof%20raboesch&PRODUCTPAGE=Raboesch%2DWaterproof%2DPropshaft%2D211mm%2DM4%2D%2DRAB301_03%2Ehtml#SID=1163

https://www.modelshopleeds.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=24581

https://www.modelshopleeds.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=49016&gclid=CjwKCAjw9r-DBhBxEiwA9qYUpUZehxnzG-q-MYeY-MG8zUqqy7BbhBNtFYWoHCeDkIqzGMOlq1nHDRoCs28QAvD_BwE

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRASS-MODEL-BOAT-PROPELLER-50mm-4-BLADE-RIGHT-HAND-M4-CLOCKWISE-ROTATION/203294708470

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Model-Boats-Tiller-Arm-Single/162888627048?var=462071765751

Thanks for this, I’ll get ordering stuff.

[size=78%] Can I ask about servos and also about rudder and bearings? [/size]

Taranis · « **Reply #79 on:** April 12, 2021, 09:40:33 pm »

Bearings was probably a poor choice of word in hindsight. They are simply brass tube to fit whatever brass rod you use for your rudder. My servo is what I had in stock, a mid sized Corona DS-339MG that you can find at hobbyking or anything similar.

Beware, my neighbour asked how many rolls of wallpaper I bought for the living room. I told him 15. A week later he said he had 3 rolls left over, I said so did I

Stephen 24601 · « **Reply #80 on:** April 12, 2021, 11:13:12 pm »

Quote from: Taranis on April 12, 2021, 09:40:33 pm

Bearings was probably a poor choice of word in hindsight. They are simply brass tube to fit whatever brass rod you use for your rudder. My servo is what I had in stock, a mid sized Corona DS-339MG that you can find at hobbyking or anything similar.

Beware, my neighbour asked how many rolls of wallpaper I bought for the living room. I told him 15. A week later he said he had 3 rolls left over, I said so did I

Ha ha thanks again for your quick response.

Unlike you, I don’t carry any “stock”, so all purchases are carefully made.

Need to also buy an RC controller and possibly twin batteries for either side of hull?

Taranis · « **Reply #81 on:** April 13, 2021, 11:32:02 am »

For all the rudder parts I just used what I had to hand. The rudder shaft here is actually a brass tube with a brass rod inside. This is why the bottom end is stepped and uses a piece of the same tube as a bush in the keel. The other bush is larger to fit the tube of the rudder.
The grub screw in the tiller arm secures the tube to the rod.

Taranis · « **Reply #82 on:** April 13, 2021, 02:47:27 pm »

I haven't got to the ballasting stage yet but I am considering this or similar in front of the motor. Only 1" high and could use the alternative twin pack that have 6000mah.
I will be using lead shot along the keel as required.

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-shorty-4200mah-2s2p-65-130c-hardcase-lipo-pack-roar-approved.html?queryID=564e5fc12461eab5b2a35cd0f1dfb02d&objectID=30789&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products

or https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-ultimate-4600mah-2s2p-90c-hardcase-lipo-short-pack-roar-brca-approved.html?queryID=961a49390fbf41647ede39f49f40e2ad&objectID=30790&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products

or https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-ultimate-6000mah-2s3p-90c-hardcase-lipo-saddle-pack-roar-brca-approved.html?queryID=7f2cbee4abfe35f906a4d7b271861672&objectID=30802&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products

Taranis · « **Reply #83 on:** April 13, 2021, 04:17:41 pm »

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-MsR3gFV/0/1920/i-MsR3gFV-1920.mp4

Taranis · « **Reply #84 on:** April 13, 2021, 05:33:40 pm »

Worth a punt at £22 delivered
https://www.amazon.co.uk/VORJAY-5000mAh-Battery-Connector-Truggy/dp/B08DY45PC6/ref=pd_lpo_21_img_0/262-0067409-7003256?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B08DY45PC6&pd_rd_r=2db3e180-0a53-4f72-9ac3-5dd235d9efad&pd_rd_w=P062P&pd_rd_wg=sO897&pf_rd_p=d8b3a5b8-7766-4dff-b57a-24ee5d46250d&pf_rd_r=BHVBGMAKNFDSJGSXB3E9&psc=1&refRID=BHVBGMAKNFDSJGSXB3E9

OOPS noticed last one so I bought it

tsenecal · « **Reply #85 on:** April 13, 2021, 11:52:59 pm »

so, that battery claims to have a 100c discharge rating, and a 5ah (5000mah) capacity... which means - hypothetically - it should be able to discharge at a rate of 500 AMPs... all that through 12ag wire, and a deans connector?

Taranis · « **Reply #86 on:** April 14, 2021, 07:17:57 am »

In the unlikely event that anyone would require to take advantage of that I think you would need to replace the leads

As it’s designed for use in RC cars the leads are supplied appropriate to that.

However I don't want to get into a discussion about Lithium batteries and how manufacturers rate their comparisons.
This will not be required to delivery more than 5 amps mostly.

Battery tray made to size

Bracket and velcro for RX

Taranis · « **Reply #87 on:** April 14, 2021, 10:59:01 am »

I've been getting the feeling that most folk who might have been modelling for many years and use brushed motors only seem to think that brushless just means fast and not controllable. Videos here with no load and with load it is even better.
Hobbywing waterproof ESC average £24 motor £17.99
https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-bgBCs8W/0/1920/i-bgBCs8W-1920.mp4

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-9mr74kP/0/1920/i-9mr74kP-1920.mp4

For Stephen
https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-VRw6rmp/0/1920/i-VRw6rmp-1920.mp4

Stephen 24601 · « **Reply #88 on:** April 14, 2021, 06:02:42 pm »

Thank you

RST · « **Reply #89 on:** April 14, 2021, 08:25:08 pm »

Stephen I don't think there's any rule either way when it comes to brushed or brushless, well not for lower powered stuff anyway. If you're buying from scratch there's no real reason I suppose not to go brushless from the start. It's horses for courses. Ni-mh or Li-po I suppose also if you can handle either. You just need to research the specs either way and make your choice. There never seems a 100% difinitive thing either way unless your making something like an airfix or Lego kit. Heed the advice posted in the wonderful modelboats website and magazine for some really good and fundamental beginners guides.

Taranis · « **Reply #90 on:** April 14, 2021, 10:31:17 pm »

Stephen had a gap of 40 yrs from modelling just a little less than myself

Today I clear lacquered the hull before starting the waterline in indelible pen. Any errors are easily wiped off with isopropanol. This is quite time consuming to get right. I will now lacquer the hull again to protect the line and whether I paint it or leave it clear the line will be there to mask up.

I might partially ballast this tomorrow.

Taranis · « **Reply #91 on:** April 15, 2021, 03:42:21 pm »

I was dreading carving out these bow fairleads but it had too be done and I'm relieved that it has gone ok.
I then resin coated the bare wood.

After a rub down and a re lacquer to preserve the waterline

For placing the waterline I used all weapons necessary

Anywhere that the line went adrift I just wiped it off with isopropanol and used Tamiya masking tape to replace the line.

Double check

Mark T · « **Reply #92 on:** April 15, 2021, 07:29:28 pm »

Next time I need to do a waterline I think I'll pop around to yours and borrow that lazer. Nice work especially on that carving - very nice and square and that's hard to do

Taranis · « **Reply #93 on:** April 15, 2021, 08:18:23 pm »

I don’t believe you haven’t got some super duper levelling kit from USA

You are most welcome to use mine

Just bring a malt with you

Taranis · « **Reply #94 on:** April 15, 2021, 08:29:16 pm »

Ready to start ballasting

For a small hull I'm surprised at how much lead she'll need

Some shot set in resin for a start but much more needed.

A visit to local gun shop tomorrow for more shot.

Taranis · « **Reply #95 on:** April 16, 2021, 03:53:19 pm »

Continued

Taranis · « **Reply #96 on:** April 16, 2021, 05:22:44 pm »

Ballast completed with a little spare

Mark T · « **Reply #97 on:** April 16, 2021, 05:35:40 pm »

What's the total weight Andy? I'm yet to build a boat thats not less than 9KG all in. Looks nice in the bath and I can see that you nicked my waterline/levelling/superduper spirit level

Taranis · « **Reply #98 on:** April 16, 2021, 05:45:03 pm »

I left a little headroom incase I paint but she can go to 2.6 easily

Boulogne Etaples

Mark T · « **Reply #99 on:** April 16, 2021, 05:46:46 pm »

Thats a nice weigh to lift in and out of the water - nice one

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Author Topic: Billing Boats Hoga no. 708 (Read 24602 times)

RST

RST