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[richardabeattie]

I'd like to fit this out for radio control but can't find any U tube advice and can't work out how I'd access the inside once the deck is on - the hatches look too small.

[tonyH]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F2xoqrNHkZQ so it looks feasible

[Martin (Admin)]

             #

https://store.amatimodel.com/en/models-amati-classic/product-dorade-racing-yacht-b1605.html

[richardabeattie]

The first response shows me the U tube posting showing the internal fit out but does not answer my question - how to access it once the deck is in place as none of the hatches seem big enough.  I'm not sure what the second response is telling me apart from where to buy it.  But thanks anyway!

[tonyH]

The video, apart from the fact that someone has done it,  implies either (A) that the whole deck lifts up in one go or (B) you seal the whole lot in. The choice is yours

[roycv]

Hi I remember seeing the Dorade at the launch at the Nuremburg Toy Fair (1992).  I spoke to the Amati sales and they said it was intended for both display and sailing.  They had a model fitted out with RC.
The model in the video is neatly laid out but you only need one sail winch, I agree it does not look easy to convert.  But as you say someone has done it and video'd her sailing.
As you know it can be done which is half the battle it is time to put the thinking cap on!
I converted an Amati 1 : 35 scale Endeavour Americas Cup display yacht to RC.  It took me a couple of weeks of calculating but I got there in the end.
You have the advantage that the yacht will sail with the hull as it is ,so should be easier.
I am currently working out how to adapt the Panart Bruma to sail without it looking like a Lego model underwater.
Have you experience with sail craft?  Only asking no crits intended.  You have chosen a very famous yacht with an excellent sailing record, which has now been restored in Rhode Island.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dorade_(yacht)
I do not know the construction system and whether all the super structure can be made to be removed.  If worried about locating onto a flush deck try neodimium magnets very small and powerful.
Good luck
Roy

[tonyH]

After a bit of lateral thinking I reckon one way would be to build the working structure/deck/masts/Rx/winch and batteries etc as one framed piece, hung from the deck, that drops onto a shelf in the hull as a unit. The only bits that would be permanently in the hull would be the keel ballast and the rudder setup (servo and linkage) so that the only connection would be to plug the rudder servo into the Rx.

[mrzippy]

Tony are you aware of an r/c Dorade conversion started around August this year here on Mayhem?
post titled - 'Amati Dorade build and conversion to RC'   by smileyjonregards Paul.

https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,69470.0.html

[tonyH]

Hi Paul, not seen that but my idea is not to glue the works into the hull but build a removable structure of deck and frame plus all the works and have the whole lot liftable out. 

[richardabeattie]

Thanks for all these helpful suggestions.  I'll see what I can do!  If I have understood the sketches the idea is to have a servo driving a long loop of cord running forward to a pulley and then to attach the main and jib sheets somewhere along that loop. The servo would need a wide arm on it at 90 to the hull to generate enough movement in the loop. Given the need to access the works and to get at the battery I like the idea of having the entire structure and deck removable in one piece.

[mrzippy]

Hi Tony, the continous loop systems I've spotted use rotary/drum sail winches to drive the loop -
I'd suggested this this method to Smileyjon because he's permanently fixing his deck and the complete winch unit may? have dropped in at a shallow angle via a hatch and be removable for maintenance etc along the lines of a Nottingham J Class.
 examples can be seen on the link below -
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1YbkIU_OPtht3Ns8gDNtOYmQmuOz5lYFH/edit?pli=1

But if you're going for a removable deck regular lever arm winches should work ok.
I'll be very interested to follow your progress, Dorade is a beautiful model and on my bucket list for many years !
any thoughts on how you might create a seal/gasket/whatever to make her water tight?
Paul.

[roycv]

Hi I fitted a similar winch and a stick system when I fitted out my 36 inch yacht Gracia.  I divert a little from the continuous line by having an elastic return of the loop to the winch drum.
My pulling side where all sail sheets attach to is on the lower drum of the winch.  The line goes out to the end pulley and returns to wind on the top drum.  The reason for this is if the elastic goes slack i.e. stays stretched you can wind an extra loop on the top drum without disturbing the rest.
This has been working since 2006 and has given no trouble.  The  'elastic' I use is Beadalon Elasticity 1mm dia.  It is a round section and some sort of silican as far as I know.

The pulley end of the stick needs to locate somewhere in the bow that is also easy to find by touch.
With this system you may only need a minimum size hatch opening at the stern of the yacht, which may be much easier to arrange.

I have just, like yesterday, been working on my Inga IV which has a continuous cord system, but I had to fit (a few years ago) a pulley in the loop on a spring to keep the tension on the loop.  In my case the spring flew off never to be seen again and so I used some more of the afore mentioned elastic to put the tension back.  All working now.
The elastic used was from the same reel I bought back in 2006 and still retains its elasticity.

Good Luck
Roy

[tonyH]

Hi Paul, to be honest I only thought of the "lift out" possibility for Dorade because I'm building a model of HMS Trial and was annoyed with the way the hatches came into play! I'm using a single winch/stick single loop run as well so the deck area taken up is relatively small. This means that the potential sealing area between the lower/dummy deck and the "real" deck is relatively large. I normally put a thin layer, or even just a couple of runs of silicone sealant on the lower deck, then a layer of cling-film, then the proper deck which is weighed down and left for a couple of days. Remove top deck and carefully peel off cling-film. Check that it's set and then it's just a case of screws, clips or magnets to suit.

[mrzippy]

Ahh wondered how you would solve it - the old submarine silicone hatch seal method, that would work well !
Modern tiny Neodym magnets open up endless possibilities these days !!  but use them at your own peril,
they are incredibly powerful when used in groups - a friends cabin cruiser superstucture requires so much force to lift off,
he regularly breaks joints apart thanks to Neodyms - Lol.
Paul.