Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Pleasure boats, Sports, Race, Power and Leisure Boats: => Topic started by: glennb2006 on January 20, 2009, 12:25:26 am
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Hello all.
I have taken the plunge and decided to build a hydro, after some research, I decided to go for a Whiplash Hydro by Blazer Marine in the US. It is wooden construction, all parts are laser cut and fit well. The boat is designed to run with 26cc gas engines, but I am going to fit a tuned Zenoah running on petrol!
Some pictures:
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/th_WhiplashDoublers1.jpg) (http://s152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/?action=view¤t=WhiplashDoublers1.jpg)
The first stage, glueing together some pieces that require doublers.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/th_Whiplashframe1.jpg) (http://s152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/?action=view¤t=Whiplashframe1.jpg)
First assembley of side rails and frames 1 to 7.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/th_Whiplashframe2.jpg) (http://s152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/?action=view¤t=Whiplashframe2.jpg)
Frames tacked into place with superglue. So far I am impressed, well cut out kit. Going together well.
This will be a slow build as I do not have the time I want for all my hobbies, but I'll try to do a bit each week and post the results here. Hopefully it will keep me motivated to stick with it.
Hope this is of some interest to you.
Regards,
Glenn
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Nice build Glenn!
How much was the kit and does it include running hardware?
( For larger photos, try using the "IMG Code - Forums & Bulletin Boards" from Photobucket: [IMG ]http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Whiplashframe2.jpg[ /IMG]
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/WhiplashDoublers1.jpg)
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Whiplashframe1.jpg)
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Whiplashframe2.jpg)
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hi There Martin,
the kit as it came includes nothing but the wood, the turn fin was additional to the cost. The base kit was from memory about £100 - $180 seems to ring a bell. On top I had to get the resin to bond it all together (and coat it), the strut, rudder, flex shaft and the prop. And engine mounts and pipe etc etc.
I reckon by the time I am done it will stand me about £500, but I have an engine already. Not cheap.
as to the pictures, thought I'd try thumbnails, if you click on the photos they get bigger, but looking at it now I think I'll put them on full size.
Thanks for the interest.
Glenn
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What's it doing here Glenn I expected to find it under Dry Dock ok2 You hiding it from Martin (Martno1fan).
Will you be sealing the frame before adding the skin?
Little trick here, warm the epoxy and the wood before sealing, makes it thinner and absorb better :-))
Looking forward to the rest of the build.
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Hi Ian,
dry dock for repairs, this is new build so on the slips!!
Not sure where Mart is - thought he would have been onto a lump of wood build by now, time yet though.
One thing I did not mention as a bit of an issue to overcome, when putting the frames together, they are very flexible in current state so need a lot os support to keep straight until the glue dries.
I clamped two spirit levels to the sides to keep them straight.
It is getting a lot stiffer even just tacked with the superglue. Seems this i going to be strong, which is good, and light, which I like. Hopefully it is going to be fast, the designer claims speeds in excess of 85MPH.
As to the epoxy, I'm using West Systems slow curing stuff which goes on like water, really thin at room temperature, I will heat it a little though to get better penetration, thanks for that.
Going to coat the frames when the bottom goes on, there are 1/8" sticks to go onto every joint with the deck and the bottom sheet to increase the glueing area first. That is going to be laborious, and I can tell I will superglue myself to the frame!!
I will have some more done on Froday with luck and will post some pictures as I go.
Off to London now - so no boats. :((
Glenn
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Hi Glenn sorry i missed this ok2 good luck with it mate,these are really nice kits ive been considering one myself for some time.One thing i notice about Brians kits is theres lots of frames like a traditional wood kit.Def more pieces compaired to the zippkits hydros,i know yours is a piccklefork so theres bound to be more bits i supose.Not a complaint just an observation,good idea about using the spirit levels for the sides to keep it straight i used ali angle on mine.You will be surprised how light and strong the wood kits are compaired to glass boats.Good to see you having a go mate keep up the good work,regarding your epoxy i used some i got from a yacht builders it was cheaper than the west systems and its lloyds aproved,name escapes me now,takes longer to cure though about 8 hrs usually but its very strong.Did your kit come with a glass cowl in the price or extra?.You can def get 80mph from that boat im sure,when shes done bring her to fleetwood .Be good to see how it compairs to the roundnose ,yours will be faster on a flat lake for sure.
Mart
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Martin,
How on earth did you find me here?
Let's get it finished first! I got West Systems resin, it only cost about £15 for enough to do three of these, so there will be no shopping around needed there, it seems to take about 12 hours to go off, it is the slow cure stuff.
Jury still out for me on wood, let me get a few high speed crashes under my belt and I'll let you know how tough I think it is.
As to coming over to Fleetwood, that's hardly fair, it's salt water - your boat is set up for it. And you got a posh tuned motor.
I believe there are something like 40 bits of wood in the kit, if I had the drawing with me I'd tell you exactly, I did laugh when I saw the wording from Brian Blazer on the US Customs Declaration on the box - he described the contents as a "Wooden Puzzle". Some truth there, though that was easily sorted once I realised I was missing four pages from the destructions, which Brian emailed to me.
Watch this space!
Glenn.
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Haha im allways lurking mate not much gets past me muhaha ok2,when i said this epoxy takes 8 hrs i meant till you can safeley move the boat from the board but it does take a full 24 hrs to fully cure.Probably ther same for the west systems i guess,im sure you will get lots of pleasure building this kit .Just take your time and have fun mate,look forward to seeing how it comes together.Just be sure to add some cloth tape and resin to the seams where you feel it might be needed,thats what i did even though thats not in the instructions .Thats funny about him calling it a wood puzzle,i never paid any customs on the zipp either and it came in two boxes,one for the kit and one for the cowl.The sponsons on the zipp arent equal size wise by design which seems to work really well.As you know im making a plug for a glass T boat as we speak,i used the zipp as my inspiration taking some of its sponson angles etc and incorporating them into it ,all with Joes permision of course.Mine will be a tad longer and will have a different style deck and a few other changes.This one will have a sports cowl but i might do a traditional one too,lots of work to do but hopefully its worth the effort.Allready had interest from a few people about them which is encouraging.
Mart
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I forgot to add Glenn my boat has the ss mod you have a zen 7 somewhere im sure ok2,that hydro will fly with a modded zen or are you modding one yourself or is it a secret ;).Salt water fresh water its all wet to me ,ive never ran in fresh water with mine yet :D
Mart
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No secret,
I'm having a go at modifying an engine myself, it will be interesting to see what I can get it to do, I still have the Zen 7 which is going to go into my other new boat, which is an FSRV - then I have another motor which is stock, and staying stock for now, which is going into my third new boat when I get it.
Oh, looks like there are 31 pieces plus the deck, covers, radio box etc so I was about right with 40 bits.
Told you I did not have enough time.
Glenn
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Its good to see you building a boat that actually resembles a real boat for a change lol just kidding couldnt resist %).I think the zipp had 34 pieces including the radio box parts so not much of a difference really considering.Did you get a cowl with the kit?.
Mart
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Looks like no boat I ever saw before in real life!!
Yes, it does come complete with a cowl made from epoxy / glass. And a turn fin, made from a hulking great lump of stainless steel!
Glenn
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Stainless steel fin thats gonna be heavy lol,get some ali and make your own .I think your hydro is kinda modeled on the piccklefork turbines maybe ? although its not exactly a scale boat but then neither is mine which i supose is why they run so well compaired to the scale ones.How good is your cowl ,the zip ones are epoxy or at least mine is,but been so long i needed to beef up the front and rear to stop it flexing so much but you wont have that problem ok2.
Mart
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Looking good so far Glenn,if a skeleton looks good that is O0
Since when are real boats made of wood nowadays!
As you know i still prefer a nice smooth glass fibre finish {-)
Brod..
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Yea but wood is lighter and stiffer and thus faster when it comes to models ,most of the guys racing them use wood over glass and most of the records are set with the wood whiplash not the glass version as far as i know :-)),i supoose its as smooth as you make it too lol.
Mart
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Looking good so far Glenn,if a skeleton looks good that is O0
Since when are real boats made of wood nowadays!
As you know i still prefer a nice smooth glass fibre finish {-)
Brod..
I'm with you I think Brod - I am used to epoxy glass and carbon kevlar, just have to see how it goes, Mart is right in that so far it is light.
Might end up strong - we shall see how it handles flipping at full tilt and crashing into other boats.
Going to safety wire all the big lumps to some flotation if that is any cue as to how confident I am!
Glenn
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Ah,so you are a crasher Glenn,we shall see when we come over your place in summer. :-))
I'll bring the woodworm cuprinol with me {-)
Brod..
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Very funny Glen,as regards flipping id think the clue is in how many guys use the wooden ones rather than the glass ones over there.They seem to hold up pretty well,i know my Rockett is pretty light but its strong too.The only place i find weak is the deck sheeting as its poplar ply and i think that is the weakest area as i think he should have used birch plywood instead.I left it as it was but i dont plan crashing mine so she will be ok .Not sure what wood yours is made of but you might want to check that .I think you will be surprised how strong it is when shes finnished although i do know how you like to flip your boats ok2.Strongest boat i had was my old woody vee it was hard as nails ,i think it would have smashed through a lot of glass boats if it had hit them lol.
Mart
Carbon Kevlar you must have money to burn theyre only toy boats you know {-)
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I've had a few! %)
It's the only way to find the boundaries though!
Bring some creosote too....
Glenn
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The build goes on:
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Whiplashportsponson1.jpg)
The port side sponson frame.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Whiplashportsponson2.jpg)
The port side sponson frame from lower angle.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/WhiplashStarboardsponson1.jpg)
The starboard sponson.
The observant will have noticed the sponsons are not the same, the port side has a dihedral on the outer edge, meant to stop the boat tripping at speed through turns. I hope it works!
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Whiplashfulllengthglued.jpg)
Here is full length shot of the boat tacked with cyano. The blocks of wood are to hold the frame square, which has been a challenge. Seems to have worked out. Next job is to fit the bottom, this should stiffen things up and make life easier and the boat more manageable. ONce that is done, the hardware fit out will begin. Hope to have more progress next weekend.
Glenn
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Its getting there Glenn nice build :-)),its a completely diff build process to the zippkits i built.On mine the bottom skin is the first part you start with and all the frames slot into it,helps a lot with keeping things square etc.Lots of bricks and weights were needed to hold things flat to the bench till the glue dried though.The sponsons on mine are similar in that they aren't both the same size or shape in fact if you hold the boat up on end and look at the shape of the nose its not an even curve as the sponsons are different widths ,i think the ride surface on one is 1/4" narrower.Its not noticeable to most people until you point it out but as you say its to help with turns etc .Not sure if the whiplash has non trip sides at the rear like the t boats or not?.Keep up the good work,i enjoy the building almost as much as running them how are you finding it so far ok2 .Someone gave me a great tip on home made clamps for these kind of builds,get some plastic tubing in diff diameters and cut them into 1" wide pieces then cut through one side and there you have a clamp and they work really well too ok2.Will you be adding any glass cloth or tape to the seams in the sponsons etc?.
Mart
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It's got no ride pads at the back, just runs on the prop!
I'll be adding some strengthening to the joints on the high impact areas - I will use Kevlar tape for this probably.
So far not been too bad, still not sure about wood but we shall see - it is a very well thought out kit though, I will say that.
Hope to get the bottom on tonight.
Glenn
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Yea i know mate all i meant was on my t boat the sides at the transom are angled so they dont trip in a turn when water gets thrown up onto the sides i supose.Heres a pic of mine i just wondered if the whip was the same .Looks like a very nice kit thats another woody ill need to build by the looks %).
Mart
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The Whiplash is more complex than the one you show, the sponsons are quite intricate. Once they are sheeted, I'll put a picutre herre - still very early days on this build.
Same principles apply though. Boat - engine - water - air
Glenn
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Some more progress has been made. Here, the bottom sheet is being fitted.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/WhiplashBottom3.jpg)
The bottom sheet has to be cut to allow it to bend up either side of the sponsons, which project past it. Pressure on here, measure twice and all that!!
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/WhiplashBottom4.jpg)
Hopefully clearer detail of cuts.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/WhiplashBottom2.jpg)
Square to the transom - eventually, but an important step, check for true front to back, then commence to tacking into place. Started at the transom once I got it square and worked forward.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/WhiplashBottom1.jpg)
Looks about right!!
Next installment, sheeting the sponsons.
After that is resin on interior, the flotation.
Hope some of you are finding this interesting.
Glenn
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Well i am Glenn nice work keep the pics coming :-)).
Mart
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Watching with interest Glenn :-))
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Watching with interest Glenn :-))
Same as that..
Rich
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Glenn
With 329 reads, there are a lot of us watching with interest - just don't stray TOO far to the "dark side" :-)) {-)
Danny
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Don't worry Danny - I will be back soon enough.
Not much progress tonight - I ran out of sticks!
Glenn
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OK, back to it again, my package of sticks came through the post from SLEC today. All good.
So got to cutting some triangular shaped braces for between the hull sides and the bulheads in the critical and high stress areas, the engine bay, radio box, nose and the turn fin area on bulkhead 7. When you see the turn fin, you will see why this is going to be a high stress area, it is huge!!
The blocks can be seen in the background.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/WhiplashSponsondoublers1.jpg)
Some shots showing the 1/8" stick that is added to increase the glueing area for the sponson skins.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/WhiplashSponsondoublers2.jpg)
And a close up.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/WhiplashSponsondoublers3.jpg)
You can get the idea on how it's all held together!
I have used the West Systems slow curing epoxy on these areas to get as much strength as I can into the sponsons. The epoxy should be cured by tomorrow, when it is, I will block sand all the sponson framework to ensure the surfaces are flat, then the sponson skins will be fitted. Not worked out how to do that yet, might need some more clamps!!
I also have the nose to fit, which should not be difficult, but to ensure the hull is as streamlined as is possible, I want to try to "let in" the bottom sheet of the boat into the nose block, which is oak and hence hard as bell metal. It will need a groove machined into the back bottom edge to accomodate the ply, then cut the ply a bit shorter. There is no top sheet on this block as the epoxy glass cover goes all the way forward and into the nose block.
If anyone has any good ideas on how to put the groove into the nose block, then please shout, I am all ears.
So far it is going OK, a few anomalies with the instructions which were ironed out by a couple of emails to the boat designer, it is becoming quite rigid now.
Enjoy!!
Glenn
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Looks good Glenn when you say groove do you just mean a shoulder or recess like this pic or an actual groove? id use a tennon saw or failing that try the hacksaw they cut hardwood well but be carefull.Maybe an easier way would be to get some ply and cut it the same size as the nose less the thickness of the bottom sheet and glue it to the nose then that will creat a recess for the sheet to sit on hope that makes sense,heres a pic of what i mean.
Mart
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A recess is more of an accurate description I think Martin, it's just a bit tricky with the piece being quite small and the job being delicate - I'll get there though I am sure. A friend has a milling machine at work, I am tempted!
Epoxy nearly gone off from last nights work, so will be off again soon to start the sponsons.
Glenn
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I think my idea will work just rienforce the join with triangular stock on the inside or glass tape etc.Keep up the good work its getting there.
Mart
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A recess..
I'd call it a step :} :} If (as it appears to be) flat then a file should work, I know it's not as high tech as a mill but can be just as accurate.
Moving along nicely, I used to get frustrated at times waiting for West to harden before moving on but it prevents stress overload.....
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A step is accurate, this is going to cause me some loss of sleep - think I will go to the pub and ponder the dilema of which is the best way to incorporate this!!
The epoxy delay is not too bad - I am used to it now, it just slows everything up.
Going to begin the sponsons tomorrow, when complete, the hardware can go on.
Glenn
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hi glenn,
im following with great intrest and the potos are fantastic, its coming along realy well!
can i ask where you got it from?
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Dan, it comes from Blazer Marine in the USA
http://www.blazermarine.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=6 (http://www.blazermarine.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=6)
Very popular in the US and reportedly very fast and stable :-))
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thanks for the info :-))
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Wow $240 plus the cowl is $60 extra :o,my zipp only costs $179 and it came with an epoxy cowl and a turn fin i didnt realise the Blazers cost so much :o.Joes new tunnel looks good too for the price .
Mart
check out the zippkits here Dan :-))
http://www.zippkits.com/ (http://www.zippkits.com/)
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Don't forget the shipping too Mart!
Speak with Brian or email him, he might do you a deal if you are interested.....
If more than one of you decide to build then for sure postage can be saved. Or he might even sell the plans, then thye could be cut on a laser cutter over here which will save money.
Glenn
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Wow $240 plus the cowl is $60 extra :o,my zipp only costs $179 and it came with an epoxy cowl and a turn fin i didnt realise the Blazers cost so much :o.Joes new tunnel looks good too for the price .
Mart
check out the zippkits here Dan :-))
http://www.zippkits.com/ (http://www.zippkits.com/)
Just a point on the price of the Whip and the Zipp price - not really comparing like for like, a lot of what you are paying for on the Whip is the design, testing and development that has gone into this hull. It has won a lot of races.
That is not to criticise the Zipp Kits stuff. I have not seen any close up to comment.
Cheers.
Glenn
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Glenn the same goes for the zipps he spent over a year testing the design as with all his designs .As regards races won ,the zipp is as fast if not faster than the blazer shovel i have that on good authority,its probably the fastest of the roundnoses.It had superb results at the winternats in florida in 2008.Its so fast its been run in sports hydro class with moddified zenoahs and it has run against the whipplash and others and done pretty well especially when the water is rough,speeds are in exess of 65 mph in race trim.I was one of the first to try a fully modified zenoah in one ok2.Joe tends to keep his prices low as most of his kits are aimed at people who are either just starting out as with the easy vee or people who just cant afford to buy a glass hull.His price doesnt reflect all that testing and design work though as it is under $170 and that includes glass cowl.Shipping is not so bad either when you consider that they are now available in Europe now through MHZ Germany ok2.Thats said mine cost me $60 shipping from the states i think i know it was reasonable at the time but it might have been a tad more.No import taxes for gifts and puzzles as you know :-)).He also has a cat and a sports piccklefork hydro kit coming very soon too so the whiplash better watch out because knowing Joe he wont release it till he knows its going to be very fast.I was told it will be arround the same price as his other kits at arround $170 and all his kits include cowls and turn fins.He even threw in a strut with mine for good measure.By the way Glenn i can send you a copy of the orlando thunderboat nats if you want as i have a copy here you can have.
Mart
heres rockett running in sports hydro against aeromarine thunderbolts i think.right click and savethen open if the links dont work for you.
http://www.webdrgraphics.com/boatvideos/sport_hydro1.wmv (http://www.webdrgraphics.com/boatvideos/sport_hydro1.wmv)
http://www.webdrgraphics.com/boatvideos/sport_hydro.wmv (http://www.webdrgraphics.com/boatvideos/sport_hydro.wmv)
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Back to the subject matter. A few bits and pieces coming together toward completion, coupling and shaft etc arrived so that can now be installed.
Going OK - sponson skins this weekend!
Glenn
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Disappointed Glenn, a post stating progress with no pics <*< <*< <*< :} :} :} Looking forward to this weekends accomplishments ok2
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Disappointed Glenn, a post stating progress with no pics <*< <*< <*< :} :} :} Looking forward to this weekends accomplishments ok2
Sorry about that Ian. I aim to please! So, without further ado, some pictures!
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/PortSponsonSkin1.jpg)
This is the port side first sponson skin fitted.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/StarboardSponsonSkin1.jpg)
This one the outermost Starboard skin being glued into place.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/StarboardSponsonSkin2.jpg)
Closer shot. Note the use of atmospheric lighting to enhance drama of glueing wood together. (Does that sound anywhere near convincing?)
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/SomeWhiplashHardware.jpg)
Some of the drive train hardware:
Strut by Speedmaster.
Flex shaft by Dave Marles.
Stuffing tube by Dave Marles
Prop by Chris Hoffman
Rubber bush - crept into shot - by Ian Folkson.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Motorlooseandrough1.jpg)
And an engine - this is a Zenoah 26cc modified (By me) so we shall see how it performs. Motor moutns are Top Secret, drive end mounts are inverted to make them fit the hull, looks like they will be perfect.
New Metric rubbers on the way from Ian to try to get as much metric threads on the boat as I can.
So we have some progress - I must thank my friends Jon and Steve for the lend of the additional clamps which will speed the sponson skinning process no end.
Hope you enjoy the updates.
Glenn
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Looks good Glenn will you be using an iv bag setup in this one?.What did you decide to do about the nose block?,will you be adding some glass to the engine bay area to add more strength ok2.Cant wait to see what she looks like when the skins are on top and bottom your doing a good job keep the pics coming.
Mart
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Sorry Glenn, only 5/10 for mood lighting..
Is that the dining table you're building this on? :o You must have better control over your Mrs (and your epoxy) than I have over mine....
Coming along nicely. Clamp-wise I find elastic bands useful and for something stronger, cut down bike inner tubes.
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Looking well Glenn,looks like plenty of work left yet though.
That hydro shape is my favourite one,if i ever get one that will be the design,albeit in glass though :-))
Those mounts look very similar to my Zen7/Apache mounts from Daves,good idea about the upside down thingy.
Should be bye-bye 60,hello 70mph time now....
Brod..
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Sorry Glenn, only 5/10 for mood lighting..
Is that the dining table you're building this on? :o You must have better control over your Mrs (and your epoxy) than I have over mine....
Coming along nicely. Clamp-wise I find elastic bands useful and for something stronger, cut down bike inner tubes.
Hi Ian,
the table is in the conservatory, I am struggling to find somewhere in the house where it is warm enough for the epoxy to work and where I can leave the boat without a pair of little hands grabbing it!
I have the building board on the table normally, but have just put it back there for the moment without it while the glue drys. The missus is pretty good, as long as I have something to do she knows it keeps me happy, so everyone's a winner!
Will try harder on the photography front for you then Ian!
Hi Mart - yes, I plan on using an IV bag on this set up. There will be glass reinforcing, well, kevlar most likely, need to ensure the motor does not interfere with the bottom of the engine bay. Got the nose blocks sorted, going to make some different ones to make my life easier, they will be done when the skins are on the sponsons. Most of the strength is going to be needed on the starboard sponson around the turn fin mount I think.
Hi Brod, there is a fair bit left to do, most of the horrible wood work is behind me though.
There is a glass fibre version available, known as the Whiplash GV. Seems to be having good results in the US.
I do expect this model to do over 70 with some ease once I have it set up, if it does not then I will try my Zen 7 motor in it!
If anyone has a spare CS23 or CS23a Prestwich exhaust for sale, please let me know as I could do with one.
Done some more sponson sticking this morning, so only got three skins left to fit. Lot of cutting and sanding to finish them nicely.
Glenn
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Hi Glenn,as we talked about earlier regarding building up the Mercury Cat again with my Zen7.
The cs23 i have or did have on the Apache and the cat stuck out a far bit,which i think looked odd,i am thinking of getting a shorter one to replace,so could flog you the pipe you want?
speak to you later in email....
Brod...
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Brod, I have a cs24 not doing much if that is what you are looking for....
I am fortunate enough to build at my place of work although that has it's own problems.
Glenn 10/10 for the photos it's just the mood lighting that needs work..
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Your not wrong about the room under the motor ,mines the same on the rockett .Not much room in the engine bay on mine at all i supose yours will be the same ?,can be a pain sometimes especially when your used to running bigger boats.Wont have as much of a problem with the glass versions i supose,ill post some pics soon of my hydro plug on a new thread i widened the opening to give more room for better access to the motor,carb etc.Still working out the canopy design but the hull is done just need to get it ready for some primer.Was hoping to get the rockett wet but its too dam cold and i bet the lakes frozen {:-{.
Mart
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Brod, I have a cs24 not doing much if that is what you are looking for....
I am fortunate enough to build at my place of work although that has it's own problems.
Glenn 10/10 for the photos it's just the mood lighting that needs work..
Ian,well what i have is a 2 boat build up.i have 1 cs23a,stainless finish.
In the near process of the rebuild Mercury Cat,which you've probably seen on RCU.The cs23a was a bit too long for it.
I'm also also ready to hunt for 2 indentical pipes for a inline MTI cat build,not sure which ones yet though.
Is your cs23 shorter than the cs23a?
sorry Glenn,for talking about my boats :embarrassed: on your thread, but it kinda involves your hunt for a pipe too. :-))
Brod..
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Talking about pipes im thinking of trying this one 570 mm long might fit nice in a hydro,i can get it for a good price but they sell for about £80 normally .
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that looks similar to that black pipe running in Jacks boat,mart?
if so,should be good.
Brod..
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Yea they do look similar mate ,i think theyre very similar to the cs23a from Dave but alluminium.
Mart
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Whats the total length?
Brod..
ps.the pipe Mart,the Pipe ok2 ok2
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Whats the total length?
Brod..
ps.the pipe Mart,the Pipe ok2 ok2
570mm he said Brod - which is the same as the CS23 near enough. (22 1/2")
I am happy to take your CS 23 off you Brod.
Glenn
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Wow Glenn,thats a bigun' O0
Brod..
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Its what you do with it not how big it is you should know that by now Brod ;).
Mart
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;)
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Some more progress, slow going this epoxying lumps of wood. You were right Ian - it gets frustrating!!
Apologes for the sensitive on the misuse of a tool in the next shot - it was all I had to hand when fumbling to get a clamp into place!!
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/StarboardSponsonSkincomplete.jpg)#
The starboard sponson skinned complete. Needs sanding to finish.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/PortSponsonTripEdgeSkin.jpg)
The port side sponson trip edge. As you can see, this sponson has a different profile to the starboard side.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/PortSponsonTripEdgeSkin1.jpg)
Another shot of the same, like the lighting?
So we have some progress. Next job is to complete port side, sand them all off to finished profiles. Then hardware mounting. At last, something that is not wood!!
Glenn
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You wont dislike wood so much when your wood whip is kicking the glass versions backside theyre a good deal faster than the glass ones ok2.
Mart
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Nice thing with wood Glenn, keep it tidy on the outside and then using stain, epoxy and polishing you will get a finish far better than any paint job. Makes all the hassle worth while.
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Nice thing with wood Glenn, keep it tidy on the outside and then using stain, epoxy and polishing you will get a finish far better than any paint job. Makes all the hassle worth while.
Good point Ian have a look at this beauty might give you some ideas Glenn,mixture of paint and stain looks stunning :o.
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Hi Mart,
not sure I know why the wooden ones are faster than the glass ones, I am thinking that because they have been out longer, the boats have had a couple years of set up on them which makes 'em quicker. I too had heard they are faster, just don't like it when I don't know the reason behind things.
I have seen the Sanchez build, in fact I am using it for some photographic guidance in places, it is a very well put together model, not convinced on the colour scheme myself.
Good point on the finish Ian, although I not sure how I am going to finish it, there are a few places that are going to need some covering!!
Might try to go for simulated GRP look - just to save embarrasment at the lake if anyone finds out I have some sticks glued together with an engine bolted on!!
Glenn
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I think the main reason the glass ones are faster is they can be lighter by quite some way,im sure its possible to make a glass one as light but you would lose some strength unless you used epoxy etc.For the price of a wood one compaired to epoxy there would be a massive price difference id suspect so thats probably the main reason behind it.Wood is quite a lot stiffer than standard glass (poly) and if built straight is a great material to use and it wont flex as much as a glass hull maybe that is another factor in why glass hydros and riggers are faster than glass ones.
Mart
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Eh?
I thought you said wood was faster than glass?
Glass is faster than glass.?
Think maybe your finally losin' it mate! :} :}
Brod..
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Haha yea too early i supose %) and this forum doesnt allow you to go back and edit,didnt have time to do spell check either :-).
Mart
ps i lost it a long time ago mate %%
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I think the main reason the glass ones are faster is they can be lighter by quite some way,im sure its possible to make a glass one as light but you would lose some strength unless you used epoxy etc.For the price of a wood one compaired to epoxy there would be a massive price difference id suspect so thats probably the main reason behind it.Wood is quite a lot stiffer than standard glass (poly)
Which straight away reinforces my point that epoxy glass is one of the better materials for building with. But you at the time said Polyester glass was better as it was cheaper Martin and good enough for model boats..... I think if you factor in time to the equation, then Epoxy glass (or better epoxy carbon / kevlar) is not that dear. If this wooden whip where to include my time at even £20 / hour, then the labour alone in it would be in the region of £200. I know it is a hobby so somewhat irrelevant to price time, but puts perspective into the cost of purchased hulls ready to fit out.
I think weight might be one issue, but I think in time you will see some Whiplash GV's doing OK in the racing - also remmeber they have not been out long so not too many races have taken place with them yet.
Time will tell.
Will get the final skin on the sponson tonight then that's one job done.
Glenn
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Glenn ive never said polyester glass is better than epoxy,what i said was to me epoxy is not cost effective for the boats i make so polyester is better suited to my uses .Yes polyester boats are fine for most uses.There are more companys using it than epoxy for sure,reason been cost and demand.There just isnt the high demand for most companys to use epoxy.Im sure the glass whips will do well racing but as has been said many times a good wood one will beat a good glass one even Blazer himself will admit that.Where glass has the advantage is in they can produce them faster and cheaper than they can a wood one.
Mart
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they can produce them faster and cheaper than they can a wood one.
Mart
I reckon I could build one in glass a whole lot quicker too, no sticks to glue on place building one of them!!
Glenn
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Far more satisfaction in building something yourself..... it'll be worth the trouble when you see it flying across the water...
Building method reflects the market, looking at the US, where polyester is king, guys are changing boats left, rigt and centre and the price structure allows that. Europeans seem to build to last more and are willing to pay for a hull with inbuilt longevity, ie epoxy.
Last but not least are those that enjoy the building process and they are willing to lay down time on wooden construction. Wooden boats are however limited in their design as you can only get wood to do certain things without special equipment and processes.
Wood can't be all that bad the Mosquito (http://www.aviation-history.com/dehavilland/mosquito.html (http://www.aviation-history.com/dehavilland/mosquito.html)) was a wood construction..... although that used one of these special techniques in it's constructionhttp://www.aviation-history.com/theory/plywood.htm (http://www.aviation-history.com/theory/plywood.htm).
Enough of this discussion, we want more PICS, well I do at least O0
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I know theres a lot of guys building epoxy hulls on your side of the channel Ian but i don't know of any in the UK who actually make any epoxy hulls themselves although some do sell them I'm not sure where they're actually made.Ill let you get on with it Glenn i wont say have fun as it seems your not convinced wood is your friend.Maybe you will change your mind when you run it,for me building is more than half the fun of this hobby but to each their own.
Mart
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I'm not sure where they're actually made.
Bolton and Essex as far as I know! Not that I am not having fun, it is just slow progress nd as Ian pointed out earlier, frustrating waiting while epoxy dries.
It's gettting more interesting now as the hardware is getting together to be fitted out.
More pics during the weekend Ian.
Glenn
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I hear you on the slow thing mate ,try making a plug its painstakingly slow ive never done so much filling priming sanding in my life my fingers are sore as blazes .Oh well it will be worth it in the end ,its good to see the finnished results of all your hard work when your done.Keep at it you will get there :-)).
Mart
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Sorry for no updates for a while, the build went onto the backburner for a while whilst work got hectic - always gets in the way of the fun eh?
Sponsons now skinned - which pleases me, that was time consuming. So starting to fit hardware to the hull, once engine mounts are located I will be in position to fit the deck. It's getting there!
Photo's to follow. Camera battery flat. (Sorry Ian)
Still wishing I'd got the GV I think! {:-{
Glenn
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How much you want for it Glenn {-)
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If you'd asked a week ago it would have been in the post for free. Going to finish it off and see what it goes like, then get a GV - maybe. People seem to love 'em once they have them so we shall see.
Got another boat last week too - this one more offshore style, so something to test motors in whatever the weather.....
Glenn
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How much you want for it Glenn
One for sale here Mart, open to offers...http://www.smbf.info/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2029 (http://www.smbf.info/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2029)
Waiting 2 weeks for an update and no pics >>:-( :} A pity that real life has to disturb the serious business of modelling!!!!
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Darn it and you know how i luv free stuff,i was just joking mate all my money is tied up trying to get my moulds built for the t boat {:-{.I think you will love that hydro when you get her dialed in :-)).Thanks for the link Ian no harm in looking ehh O0.How bigs the offshore boat Glenn and is it something new ?.I like those new monos from speedcraft in the states Brian my buddy just sent me some pics of the one hes waiting for it looks awesome not really an offshore type though, looks dam fast just sitting there.this is one i wouldnt mind having in the future thats for sure.
Mart
http://www.jrcbd.com/showthread.php?t=22627 (http://www.jrcbd.com/showthread.php?t=22627)
If you'd asked a week ago it would have been in the post for free. Going to finish it off and see what it goes like, then get a GV - maybe. People seem to love 'em once they have them so we shall see.
Got another boat last week too - this one more offshore style, so something to test motors in whatever the weather.....
Glenn
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Hey Glenn seems like the new gv whip is picking up speed someone just broke the g1 sports hydro heat racing record by 5 seconds .Looks like the wood version has a challenge on its hands now <*< lol.
Mart
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Hey Glenn seems like the new gv whip is picking up speed someone just broke the g1 sports hydro heat racing record by 5 seconds .Looks like the wood version has a challenge on its hands now <*< lol.
Mart
Hate to say I told you so. Actualy, no I don't - told you so!! There, that's better.
We shall see how it all pans out, lot of factors involved that can have an effect.
Glenn
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Blahh i figured you would say that ;D im sure Scott will go out and break it again with his wooden one just to keep us all guessing which is best lol.
Mart
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Hmm, now there's a thing, his is not stock though - and it is a Gen1 version. Or was.
There's always someone faster - that's the beuty of racing, you can't stop going forwards.
Glenn
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Right, I'm back - work been manic recently, camera been playing up and 3 kids, so not posted anything for a little while. Sorry to any watchers who've missed the updates.
Good news - for me, the sponsons are done, in fact, the hull is done, only needs the deck on.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Whiplashhullcomplete2.jpg)
The hull from the rear.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Whiplashhullcomplete.jpg)
The hull from the front.
As you can see, the rudder bracket and drive strut are fitted, the rudder is awaiting arrival of a new rudder bearing block witht he control horn on the right side instead of the left, want the rudder on a "pull to turn right" set up, the control rod is around 400mm for this thing. The rod itself is carbon fibre, got a test sample curing now with 3mm studs bonded in, wnat to ensure my servos are not going to be able to pull the studs out of the carbon fibre tube, so calculated that on 15mm servo horn, the S3305 servo with torque of 8.9Kg/cm, will be capable of exerting a linear force not exceeding 6.675Kg.
So I am going to clamp my test piece in the vice and try to hang 7Kg off it, if it's a success then I have my control rod sorted! Brutal but effective.
I now have an engine ready for this boat too, I had a new Zenoah PUM26 which was un run, I recently completed some porting alteration work, along with piston lightening, etc etc, the engine was test run last week in my Panther and ran very well. Good spread of power with a fairly healthy top end, got over half an hour running on it so it is run in and ready to start to increase run times and speed. This will happen in the Whiplash. I also picked up a CS23a Prestwich tuned pipe for the model - great pipes, plenty of power and very quiet.
So as you see, it's coming together. Next to do is mount the motor properly to the hull, then fit the prop shaft tube.
Here is a sneaky peek at the turn fin - I told you all earlier it is huge!
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/WhiplashTurnfin.jpg)
Hope to get more done this weekend for uploading Sunday.
Glenn
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Looking good there Glenn.
On the CF tubes, you are reinforcing the outside of the tube with a binding or a sleeve I hope, they have a tendency to split otherwise. I have used threaded rod all through the tube and bonded, the ends can't fall out!!
I have also used components from here http://www.petetindal.co.uk/Component%20Fittings/ (http://www.petetindal.co.uk/Component%20Fittings/) Nicely made and easy to use.
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Very nice Glenn thats looking good,for my pushrod or should i say pull rod ;) i just used piano wire running inside a carbon tube from my lads tent,works flawless.Its arround 670 mm long so has to be in a sleeve .Nice turn fin did you make that? what ali did you use as i need to make some for the new hydros to include in the kit.
Mart
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The turn fin is stainless. I had thought of ferrules over the ends of the CF rod - nothing on the test pieces. I will make some, did not want 3mm rod all the way through, thought it a bit heavy. It will be strong.
I'll do some testing. Watch this space!
Glenn
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Cool what thickness is the fin ?
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OK, more progress, though slight. Still - it's progress!
The fin is 3mm thick Martin, and hard as bell metal. The bracket is pretty thick aluminium, 6mm.
Below some photo's of my brutal (but effective) test on the pushrod. I bonded into some carbon fibre tube two 3mm stainless cap head allen screws, which it is my intention to use as the connectors if my test was successful.
By calculation, I reckon in worst case stalled or seized rudder scenario, with the servo horn out at 15mm, my servo can generate 8.9Kg @ 1cm, so max at 15mm = 6.675Kg.
This is near enough for the linear force.
So my test rig was assembled - a lump of 3x2 to support the top end, some builders twine and a bucket.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Thepushrod.jpg)
Here is the pushrod
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Pushrodtestrig1.jpg)
And here is the pushrod being tested. Water torture!
In the end, I managed to get 9litres in, so near enough 9Kg, more than it is going to get in real life. No reason to think it would not have done more, but no point. Plus I might have got wet!
So proof of concept - proven, tick in the box for that one. Once I make the real pushrod, which will have some ferrules to prevent the CF splitting at the ends, which I have been informed can be an issue (Thanks Ian), then I will test the real sample before fitting it. Nice to know something should not fail you on the water.
Glenn
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I know theres a lot of guys building epoxy hulls on your side of the channel Ian but i don't know of any in the UK who actually make any epoxy hulls themselves although some do sell them I'm not sure where they're actually made.Ill let you get on with it Glenn i wont say have fun as it seems your not convinced wood is your friend.Maybe you will change your mind when you run it,for me building is more than half the fun of this hobby but to each their own.
Mart
FYI We have been making quality epoxy hulls for 20 years here in sunny Cheshire.
Dave
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I know, I got three of 'em in the garage Dave!!
Shame you can't make me an epoxy boat similar to the Whiplash!
Glenn
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OK- it's been way too long I know, but the Whiplash build has restarted! Hooray.
I have completed fixing the nose blocks into position, they will be sanded to shape tomorrow. The sponsons are going to get some reinforcement with glass fibre tape and epoxy, as will various parts of the tub to help cope with the high stresses involved.
I am optimistic that by the end of the weekend I will have the top fitted. Time will tell.
I have been inspired again to complete the build after buying a glass fibre Whiplash. I have run it several times now and the thing is really good fun, very stable and quite quick, I managed to GPS it at 72MPH last weekend, that was witht eh rougher water turn fin fitted which is much higher drag than the other one I have, so with some flat water it will be interesting.
Glenn
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Some progress this weekend, the trun fin bracket is now on,the tub has most of the joints taped and epoxied, this has made the hull a lot more rigid, I was hopeful of getting the enigne mounted into the hull and prop shaft tube fitted in, which would have allowed the deck to be bonded on, but alas the engine mounts I got for it are not the correct ones, the engine mounts I need are the usual hypertorque style though they seem to "drop" the motor further at the drive end. I might try the ones in from my other whip and if they are right then I can fit the rubbers. There's a slight problem to overcoem there too, I try to use metric rubbers (for ease of replacement) where possible, the American ones have some funny sizes, and most seem to come with American threads. I need to fit the rubbers with captive nuts, the largest I can find are 5mm, does anyone know where I can get them in 6mm?
Turn fin bracket has been modified and dressed up, and is now fitted to the back of the right sponson.
Also I was not able to get a pool flotation sausage, I was going to fit this to the compartments before the lid goes on. ANy ideas on retailers in the UK who have them please?
I will try to get some more pictures up later on.
Glenn
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Most poundshops seem to have pool noodles they sell em off cheap this time of year 50 p each lol .You can use pipe insulators though they work ok ,get those at B&Q.Glenn i use those mounts of Daves on my Rocket if you flip the small rubber bracket up the other way the motor will sit lower.
Mart
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Cheers Martin,
they look very much like the set of mounts I tried initially which are TSB - they are not quite right for the space I have, it is pretty tight, and, they interfer with my throttle linkage set up.
As to the flotation, I'll give the cheap shops a loook and see what I can find. I don't want to use pipe lagging as it does soak in water after time.
I might try and see if I can find 5mm stud rubbers the corect simensions which will help with my engine mount problems.
Glenn
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If i see any in town in grab a handfull and let you know mate and ill cut it in 3 pieces and post it lol,you probably only need one for it id think.Home bargains might have some,b&m bargains ,if not on display ask em they might have some left in store room.Ive seen em on ebay too before and another source for good foam is kids boogey boards just rip the cover off and use the foam cut into blocks.
Mart
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Not cheap but if your struggling to find any ;).
Mart
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Swimming-Pool-Noodles-Woggle-Floats-Aid-6-Colours_W0QQitemZ320424499651QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Swimming_Pools_Hot_Tubs?hash=item4a9ac9d9c3&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
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Thanks Martin, cheaper than a lost model so I will buy some.
I have been busy tonight, managed to add some kevlar to the more vulnerable areas, shown in the pictures. The other seems have been taped and epoxied for additional strength too. Shame it will not be possible to do the top sides when the deck is on. Never mind.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/StarboardSponsonstrengthened.jpg)
The STBD sponson reinforced. This one takes the stresses of the turn fin.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/PortsponsonStrengthened.jpg)
The port sponson. Strengthened to take the day to day battering and forces encountered in the event of mishaps!!
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Turnfinbracket.jpg)
The turn fin bracket, shaped on the edges (the bevels) to hopefully deflect water up and over with minimal interference during turns.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/WhiplashGV1.jpg)
The whiplash GV that got me back on track with building the wooden one again.
I hope the wooden one is as strong, and at least as quick as, the GV version. It flies.
My conundrum with the 6mm engine mount rubbers has been sorted too, I found someone who sells 6mm captive nuts.
More soon hopefully.
Glenn
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Hi Glenn not sure what room you have to work on the deck from inside when fitting etc but what i would do now is get some trangular stock and glue it to all top edges of the hull to give more gluing area if you cant get in to glass it that should help stop it popping in a crash.That said mate the Rocket deck held up pretty well in a 61MPH Flip ,she went 8 ft in the air sumersaulted and wham but just a 2" popped seam where the cowl fits ,all outer edges were fine.Have to say i was worried when i saw her take flight but was amazed at the outcome,yup wooden boats are pretty strong lol.Like the look of your new GV whip,what you got planned for the scheme of the wooden one? i kinda like the part wood part paint look myself.
Mart
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A little on some areas where I can maybe get fingers in the glass the top on, but most of it no access. I already fitted the 1/8" strips to all the tops as doublers, see how it goes, I am sure it'll be fine.
The pool floats arrived today so I can get the sponsons filled with foam.
It's getting there.
Glenn
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Im sure you will get there mate good luck with it :-)).
Mart
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Got some more done this weekend.
The engine is mounted, though I had to pinch the mounts from my Whip GV - if anyone has some hypertorque style mounts for sale I am interested, they need to have the rubber brackets on the power take off end in line with the centreline of the crankshaft.
A couple of pictures:
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Enginemounted.jpg)
This one shows the motor in position, the rubbers have been marked for the holes to be put in for the blind nuts.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Shafttube.jpg)
This shot shows the stuffing tube through the hull. There is a short piece of brass tube that the actual stuffing tube runs through, makes it easy to change the shaft tube if needed in future. As can be seen, I pushed the tube all the way into the collet for alignment purposes.
The outer tube was tacked with araldite and has now been bonded into place with resin and microfibres, makes a paste that dries solidly. Should hold the tube firm.
It's getting there slowly.
Glenn
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Some more work has been done, I got the prop shaft bent into shape and in position, the fuel tank (bag) is in place and the priceless foam flotation is installed.
Some pictures below.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Engineandfoamin.jpg)
The engine and flotation foam installed. (This engine is the one from my GRP Whiplash, I will be fitting another Zenoah that I have into this model).
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Fueltank.jpg)
The fuel bag. An empty IV bag.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Theshaft.jpg)
The bottom of the boat with the tube in. I think I will elongate the slot in the strut further to allow me to get the prop centreline a bit higher.
Just about run out of excuses not to fit the deck now!!
Glenn
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Starboard side deck fitted, I'll put pictures of the port side going on / clamped. What a challenge!!
Glenn
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OK, so I really have been getting on with it the last few days, as you will notice, the model crept back into the house, the ambient has dropped and for the epoxy to work correctly, it needs room temperature. Which is not found in my garage!!
Some pictures showing the port side deck being fitted, a mix of slow epoxy and microfibres was employed to mix up a a glue which was placed on all the hull spars prior to fitting the deck. This stuff dries as hard as bell metal.
The deck underside was coated in epoxy resin prior to fitting. The challenge being to ensure it was all touching where it should be for the duration of the drying process.
Flotation was previously installed prior to deck fitting.
Interestingly, too much clamping force was often an issue, with the wood being flexible, it was very easy to pull things out of shape and away from contacting the frameworks.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/WhiplashPortdeck1.jpg)
The fwd end of port side deck going on.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/WhiplashPortdeck2.jpg)
ANother shot, further aft. Note the two 4mm screws, these go into captive nuts in three layers of ply under the deck, this is the tuned pipe aft mounting. Or will be..
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/WhiplashPortdeck3.jpg)
A wider shot - lots of clamps needed for building these things. The deck has been very challenging both port and starboard, mainly due to the compund curves, the port side in particular as the anti-trip caused issues with clamping. Got there in the end though.
I must say now it is nearing completion, it has suddenly become a hugely rigid item, probably more so than the GRP version I have too, and there is still the centre deck section to fit.
I might be nearly converted to wood. (In fact I ordered my next project which is wood already) Come on Mart - bring it on.
But so far, the kit has been pretty straightforward to put together. I think another one would take two weeks to get where this one is now. Live and learn though.
Now to trim back the lips and start sanding prior to coating the whole thing in epoxy.
Glenn
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Its looking good now mate :-)),the top decks are a pain to get on with all the curves as you found out.I'm glad you are slowly coming to realise wood has its uses ;).The fact they stay more rigid than glass ones should hopefully make her run faster than the glass one but time will tell.I know thats what the guys used to say about them but there are ways to make the glass ones more rigid,adding a bulkhead here or there where possible or even part bulkheads works well.Once shes finished it will be interesting to see what the weight difference is between the two.On a side note mate i have some cool plans here for a 50" kneeler style hydro for outboard setups but i plan on making a few adjustments to allow inboard setups also.It doesn't have a cowl as such so ill need to design one.Ill start a thread next year on the build.So whens the big day sometime in the new year i guess?.
Mart
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Its looking good now mate :-)),the top decks are a pain to get on with all the curves as you found out.I'm glad you are slowly coming to realise wood has its uses ;).The fact they stay more rigid than glass ones should hopefully make her run faster than the glass one but time will tell.I know thats what the guys used to say about them but there are ways to make the glass ones more rigid,adding a bulkhead here or there where possible or even part bulkheads works well.Once shes finished it will be interesting to see what the weight difference is between the two.On a side note mate i have some cool plans here for a 50" kneeler style hydro for outboard setups but i plan on making a few adjustments to allow inboard setups also.It doesn't have a cowl as such so ill need to design one.Ill start a thread next year on the build.So whens the big day sometime in the new year i guess?.
Mart
Well it's coming along. I never doubted it would be capable in wood, I am still nto convinced it is the best material for a boat. It is very light though I must say, and any errors can be easily repaired. As I said, it is also very rigid now and feels strong. The real advantage in this compared to the other Whip I have is that all the edges are really sharp, so it should break the water well and be low in drag if I get it right.
Next job will be to fit the cowl, which is one of those pressure jobs, one chance to get it right, and very visible. The start to fit our radio box to suit radio install. Then more sanding and coat the wood in epoxy.
I also need to mod a motor to go into it, I might do some more port work to the motor I have in the GV and use that, though I have another untouched Zenoah waiting to be ground to pieces!
Always something to do.
I am aiming for the New Year to get this wet Martin, though time pressure is really mounting at the moment as work is a bear and got lots going on in the personal life. Might even get to go boating one of these days with my other boats.
Glenn
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I'm sure you will get it done and it should run great with a modded motor,you make a good point about the sharp edges.Problem with glass hulls is its hard to make the edges sharp without having issues with the parts coming out of the moulds easily.
You can sharpen them up but what many glass boat manufacturers don't do is use a bog of resin and fibres in the corners and sharp edges so you cant sharpen them up much without going through to the cloth or matt %).You might wanna ask Brian if they do that on his hulls before trying it ok2.I do that on all my boats so people can sharpen them if they want that extra bit from them but as you say wood can be done sharp from the start so its not an issue.
Glenn i have been boating 6 times this year <:(,i just haven't had the time ive been too busy.Good luck with getting her finished and ill look forward to seeing some vids when you do.
Mart
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The Whip GV is fast enough as it is right now, not really had much chance to work on it for speed as yet, base set up form where I got it and it over 70MPH, so not too shabby so far. It is not running the right prop either, bit too big but the motor turns it, though need some motor work done too to get some more go out of it.
The wood whip comes on, and I will put some photos up tomorrow, as it is now the Epoxy is drying (again), this time on the cover, got it cut and fitted so there is some progress. A job done that I was not looking forwards to.
Lots and lots of sanding to do. Next job will be to fit out radio box, install linkages etc. Then I can glue the deck on.
Nearly there.
Glenn
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I'm sure you will be able to get her to 80 mph no problem once you get chance to dial her in etc,the rocket does 58-61mph without ridepads depending on water conditions which isn't too shabby.With them i had her to 68 and thats with the base setup i did when i built the boat,no prop changes or alterations other than strut height to account for the ridepads etc ,Fastest ive heard of one doing is 69 not sure anyones hit 70 yet so i havent done too bad with it.
Im sure the whip will easy reach 80+ as its a much smaller lighter boat,different animal all together anyway.They run more like a rigger than a hydro from what ive seen,very fast boats for sure.To be honest 60 is fast enough for me on a narrow lake ;),in any case im retiring her to concentrate on my own hydros from now on.Might clean her up and give her a new paint job and sell her on as a bare hull.
Mart
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that looks fantastic, i've just brought my first fast electric boat today, i've brought the Robbe Magin 1 :-)
if i enjoy this and all goes well, then i'll be be getting a fast cat from:-
http://www.swissmodelpowerboatteam.ch/135er.html
this one is 135 cm long :o :-))
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that looks fantastic, i've just brought my first fast electric boat today, i've brought the Robbe Magin 1 :-)
if i enjoy this and all goes well, then i'll be be getting a fast cat from:-
http://www.swissmodelpowerboatteam.ch/135er.html
this one is 135 cm long, but they also make some truly massive hulls :o :-))
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that looks fantastic, i've just brought my first fast electric boat today, i've brought the Robbe Magin 1 :-)
if i enjoy this and all goes well, then i'll be be getting a fast cat from:-
http://www.swissmodelpowerboatteam.ch/135er.html
this one is 135 cm long :o :-))
Very good, enjoy the Robbe, not run one but it looks afun place to start. The HPR boats are things of beuty, well made, very expensive. Need some big motors to run them too.
Something to aim for though.
I'm nearly at the end of this my first wood build. (Should say, first wood build since I was 14). So it has been interesting for me, I think I'd build another a lot quicker, cleaner and a little differently, but now just looking forward to getting the motor sorted and ready to go into it. My engine mounts arrived today so off we go again.
Glenn
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yes i'm trying to build her as light as possible, but also to find the most powerful brushless motor to suit her, all of this is new to me, because i used to build tugboats only.
these Hydroplanes look awesome on youtube :-))
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The smaller cat hull 115cm is 260 quid and the 135cm hull is 346 quid, so they're very expensive, but top quality.
i can get a 32'' hull for miles cheaper, but i'd rather have the far larger 115cm, plus it's a far better build
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i saw one on youtube tonight with a jet turbine model aircraft engine :-)) it sounded exactly like a jet fighter, it was a Budweiser; it sounded totally awesome
but this one wasn't as fast as yours, no way, i think it did about 70 mph, yours will be 80 to 90mph.
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It still brings a smile to my face when i fire it up three years on !
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yT1uSHB4oAs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b20o85ffmkQ
If i had a suitable boat, i would love to try it out (if i could find somewhere suitable)
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flipping heck WoW %% %% that looks great.
i had a P51 Mustang years ago, that looked great too.
i dont know how much damage would be done to a jet turbine if you crashed at 90 mph on water though, but it sure does sound the part
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i dont know how much damage would be done to a jet turbine if you crashed at 90 mph on water though, but it sure does sound the part
Yeah, that is a big concern. It`s bad enough when you get a reciever wet, let alone a £500 ECU not to mention the turbine itself, and you also need two seperate proportional channels to operate the turbine, so 2.4 might be the solution to that.
That said, i would be prepaired to try it if anybody can recommend a suitable boat ?
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Yeah, that is a big concern. It`s bad enough when you get a reciever wet, let alone a £500 ECU not to mention the turbine itself, and you also need two seperate proportional channels to operate the turbine, so 2.4 might be the solution to that.
That said, i would be prepaired to try it if anybody can recommend a suitable boat ?
no i cant think of one, because all RC fast electric boats crash dont they, only much slower scale boats are stable and even they get wet inside.
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no i cant think of one, because all RC fast electric boats crash dont they
Even on calm water?
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Would fitting a Gyro to it help keep it Die straight, or is this not the cause of crashes ?
(maybe we should start another thread for this one)
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Would fitting a Gyro to it help keep it Die straight, or is this not the cause of crashes ?
(maybe we should start another thread for this one)
not sure, but they always seem to flip over on Youtube, most often whilst near the end of a long fast run in a straight line, i think they hit prop wash from a previous run, because you dont often see a Cat flip over whilst turning or going slowly, it's in a straight line near 140km/h that they suddenly take off, the Hydro seems to do the same too.
my guess is they're racing into unstable water caused by the previous run, because they seem to sail the same course all the time, i.e up and down a lake in a straight line, trying to break a previous speed record, but i wont know what's going on until i get mine on the water; i only know about tugboats, i've never raced fast electrics.
solution:- self-righting !
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Any more updates on the WHIPLASH ? :o,Mal x i think you need to start your own thread m8.
Mart
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Still sanding at the moment Martin, getting it ready for the filling in places needed and the all over coating of epoxy.
Sick of sanding now, but nearly there. Started to play with the radio fit out.
Also, been grinding, ports and piston on the motor that is, now that's a bit more fun!
Glenn
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If you all like turbine powered models check this bad boy out a turbine powerd Miss Bud.
http://www.modelgasboats.com/Magazine_Content/Scratch%10Custom_Builds/Budweiser_Turbine_Hydro/
I think I will have to rob a bank and buy me one of them turbines lol
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Still sanding at the moment Martin, getting it ready for the filling in places needed and the all over coating of epoxy.
Sick of sanding now, but nearly there. Started to play with the radio fit out.
Also, been grinding, ports and piston on the motor that is, now that's a bit more fun!
Glenn
Look forward to seeing her when you get her ready for paint Glenn,hows the engine work going mate?.Maybe you should start doing it as a service for us mere mortals who can just about tell one end of a cranckshaft from the other :}.By the way im doing a deal with a guy in the states who has a hydro similar to the whiplash,ill be building them here in the UK he will be building my Comet over there.He says its good for 80 mph should be fun :-)).
Mart
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Engine work is done. Problem is with doning work for others is the first time something goes wrong witht eh motor, even if it is 5 months down the line, it comes back to you. There is no guarantee they are going to hang together when done, though that said, I have not had a failure as yet.
That's got to be the kiss of death.
Read the article done by Jeroen Pasman - then get your Dremel out and give it a go, it is not that difficult to do really.
Should be ready for epoxy coating this weekend I think.
Glenn
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Yea i know what you mean mate,im sure i could do it i just cant be bothered im too busy with the boat building.Anyways i think rcmk motors for me from now on,cant beat the performance for the price.Good luck with the epoxy ok2.
Mart
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Thanks. I am sure the epoxy will be fine, the tricky bit is going to be finding a spot in the house when the missus is out for an hour or two so I can hang it up in the warm to coat it, then scrape it off again.
Saturday afternoon talk of Christmas shopping trips sounds the best plan for me.
As to engines, I am aware that the RCMK are fairly powerful out of the box, but for a little work you can get more from a Zen and they are becoming cheap to buy on the secondhand market.
I'm still on Zens for now as you can probably tell.
Glenn.
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Nothing against zens i still luv mine just rcmk seem to be the furure for sure,do the same work as you do on your zen you will have a better motor theyre quallity and great customer service unlike Komatsu :o.
Mart
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OK, so, after too much timke, some updates:
I have the radio gear installed, the servo brackets have been made, bolted through wooden laminated "plates" which are epoxied onto the radio box base. These will be easy to get the servo's out complete with brackets for easy changes.
Some pictures:
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Whiplashthrottlelinkage.jpg)
Here is the throttle linkage at the engine end. The carb has an accelerator pump so it will be interesting to see how the engine performs when the throttle is opened quickly.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Whiplashservomountplates.jpg)
Here is one of the servo plates. These are laminated ply, the captive nuts being pulled into the top sheet, then the bottom sheet being laminated onto it, the whole thing then gets epoxied to the radio box bottom.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Whiplashradiobox.jpg)
The radio box. You can see how easy it is to remove servos.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Whiplashrudderlinkage.jpg)
This final shot showing the rudder ball joint.
I used carbon fibre tubes as you can see for the linkages, they are light and strong. Ferrules of brass tube to prevent the carbon rod splitting (Thanks Ian for the advice).
Engine is mounted, I made some spacers to take up the slaclk fomr the new riubbers, I have changed all bolts and nuts on the model to ensure everything is metric, this resulted in some slack on the engine mounts between rails and the rubbers as the metric rubbers I used are slightly shorter, some spacers made from 3mm aluminum sorted that out nicely.
So all that remains is:
Fit the final top deck where the hatches go, fuel tank in, sand it all down, do any final filling, epoxy the whole thing, then paint, fit out and test. The engine in the pictures is still stock at the moment so that will be ported during the Christmas break with luck. If anyone is interested I'll post some pics of the engine butchery!!
Have a Happy Christmas and a great New Year.
Glenn
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The engine in the pictures is still stock at the moment so that will be ported during the Christmas break with luck. If anyone is interested I'll post some pics of the engine butchery!!
Have a Happy Christmas and a great New Year.
Glenn
Ohhhh yes :-))
I`ve modified several glow engines over the years, but i`ve never been tempted with any of my zenoah`s. i`d be really keen to see this.
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It shall be done then. It's not pretty! But so far have had success with them.
Glenn
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Look forward to seeing what you do to yours Glenn,i plan on some mods to an evo motor,ill be following Scotts methods on the mgb site for the evo mods.I have no clue what im doing or why whats done works i just copy what they do knowing it will work lol.Look forward to following your mods along with the rest of your build :-)).
Mart
John heres a great article to wet your apetite
http://www.modelgasboats.com/Magazine_Content/Tech_Articles/Engine_Porting/
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It shall be done then. It's not pretty! But so far have had success with them.
Glenn
The engine I had lined up for this one ended up elsewere, henece the reason I need to tune another......
Glenn
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The engine I had lined up for this one ended up elsewere, henece the reason I need to tune another......
Glenn
Do you find that your changing bearings more often the the modified engines ?
john
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Do you find that your changing bearings more often the the modified engines ?
john
Not so far John.
Glenn
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OK - I know I said I'd post during Christmas, but I got so busy that I never had the chance. ;)
Some progress has been made though, but not too much yet. Won't be long now!
Photo's to follow.
Glenn
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I know what you mean Glenn i got busy quite a lot over Christmas too O0,look forward to the pics mate.
Mart
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Here are the start of the pics, there'll be a few in this series:
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Whiplash%20engine%20tuning/Engineoutofboat.jpg)
Engine loosened off
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Whiplash%20engine%20tuning/Flywheelpullertool.jpg)
Pulling the flywheel. Homemade tool works well for this.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Whiplash%20engine%20tuning/Enginestripped.jpg)
Strippped down to all it's glory
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Whiplash%20engine%20tuning/Notbelikethatforlong.jpg)
Not for long it isn't!!
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Whiplash%20engine%20tuning/Pistonstock2.jpg)
The stock piston
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Whiplash%20engine%20tuning/Pistonworkcommences.jpg)
Material removed from intake side of piston skirt
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Whiplash%20engine%20tuning/Pistonstock.jpg)
A shot to show how much is cast into the piston. Lots of this will be removed to lighten the piston.
That's it for now, more later when more grinding has been done.
Glenn
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And some more. I managed to get the engine finished this afternoon.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Whiplash%20engine%20tuning/Pistonground1.jpg)
This is the inside of the piston, lot of weight removed here as you can see.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Whiplash%20engine%20tuning/Pistonground2.jpg)
Side profile of the piston.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Whiplash%20engine%20tuning/Casesandcylindermatched2.jpg)
Drive end crankcase matched to cylinder.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Whiplash%20engine%20tuning/Casesandcylindermatched.jpg)
Flywheel end cylinder and case matching.
Note the cases were polished after this was done to make it nice and smooth for the gas flow from the bottom end up the transfers. You can see the eyebrow cuts in the transfers.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Whiplash%20engine%20tuning/Crankground1.jpg)
In a new expermiment for me you can see I ground the leading edge of the crank. Supposed to reduce drag as the crank turns. See if it revs better I guess!!
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Whiplash%20engine%20tuning/Crankground2.jpg)
Another angle of the same.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Whiplash%20engine%20tuning/Degreewheelsetup.jpg)
Checking the timing numbers.
For anyone interested, this motor is now running 186 degrees exhaust timing and 154 degrees of inlet. Hopefully it will produce some good power. Should rev well anyway!!
One shot I did not take was of the exhaust port - basically, the roof is rasied and the profile maintained. All edges cleaned off and radiused when done to allow smooth action for the piston. I built it back up and it starts. If I get the chance I will run it tomorrow in another model to test it.
Glenn
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lookin good glen
whens it hitting the water ( pardon the pun ) %% %% %%
cheers tony
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Nice work Glenn thanks for sharing good luck with it.
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lookin good glen
whens it hitting the water ( pardon the pun ) %% %% %%
cheers tony
Hi Tony,
the Whip will most likely be another month or so, time just isn't there to do as much as I want to. We shall see though. The motor is hopefully going to get a run today.
Thanks Mart - hope some of you enjoyed the tune up info. Are you going to have a go?
Glenn
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Glenn i allready did some minor porting on my first motor a while back,practiced on a weedy motor and it really woke it up.As you know im not a mechanic by any means so i just followed what someone told me to try etc.Ill have a go on a zen or the rcmk evo hopefully over the summer and your pics and info should help me a lot,pictures speak more than words to me lol.Hope to try the evo in one of my vees and then its going in a new cat ill be building soon.Im hoping i get a lot more time on the water this year than last thats for sure.
Mart
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Very good. Most important thing to get before you start is a degree wheel and pointer, then, if you know what timing numbers you are after it is a very simple process to calculate how much to remove from the ports / piston skirt.
Glenn
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I wouldnt know where to start lol but ill keep a look out for one and im sure you can give me some tips lol.I supose ill just do a bit at a time and test and see what i get on the tac (when i buy one) and the gps.Not looking for any world records but a bit more power is allways welcome when its free ok2.Im about to strip my full mod ss motor down to check it over and that should give me some ideas as to whats been done to it.When i do ill take a few pics see what you think.
Mart
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If the mod motor that you have is working OK and knowing you have low hours on it in the last 12 months I'd recommend that you leave well alone for now. Just use it.
To the Whip - hopefully this weekend will be coating the exterior in epoxy - got to find somewhere warm, thhat I can hang the hull up in and leave it there for at least 12 hours to cure.
Looking like the sheds gettingn an electric heater fitted!
Glenn
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Well the motors out of the rockett anyway as i planned on installing it in one of my comet hydros but someone bought the hull lol,so i might have a look at it anyway.I havent even got a boat i can run at this moment {:-{.
Mart
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Build a Whiplash!
G
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Facinating stuff glenn :-)) i think i`ll give it a go on my own zenoah`s
cheers
john
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Glenn now you know im not going to build a whip when i can build my own hydros from scratch ok2.Next build will be a cat though.
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Facinating stuff glenn :-)) i think i`ll give it a go on my own zenoah`s
cheers
john
I dropped you an email. I think. Email me and I will send the mail to you.
Glenn
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The end is nigh!
I can see this thing in the water soon. Had a few hours doing some sanding, then managed to get the first coat of epoxy onto the hull. I warmed some mixed up West Systems epoxy to thin it, brushed on and left it for 20 minutes before scraping off and wiping excess with cloths. Just drying off, light between coat sand tomorrow then final coat of epoxy.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Whipepoxied.jpg)
Hung out to dry. The conservatory has electric heaters and I can get it good and warm for such tasks!!
After this, the next job will be to apply paint, I think white hull and red decks, but open to suggestions. Does anyone know of any good "hard" paint that will withstand the rigours of a hydroplane? Not cans, we have a compressor and spray equipment. Ideally like to stay away from 2 pack acrylics for health reasons.
Cheers.
Glenn
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Just done a weigh in - and with everything required to run except fuel, the drive shaft, a prop and the cowl, come in so far at 10lb 4 oz. Roughly 4.6Kg, so a bit more and I think hitting the water this one is going to be at the 5Kg mark.
I'm happy with that. It will be suck it and see how straight it is!!
Glenn
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Well,
I just completed coat of epoxy number two after sanding the first coat back.
And a thought has just struck me, I am finished building it! Just needs the pain on now, fit out the hardware, engine, radio etc and it is done. Funny how it all comes together so quickly in the end.
Still not 100% on paint job to use.
Glenn
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'The pain', Glen???????????? :o
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'The pain', Glen???????????? :o
Yeah - I always apply two or three coats of pain before primer. Helps it all stick!
:-)
Glenn
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Hi Glenn looks good mate,i use cellulose paint when painting boats and it seems to work well.You can get it at any car paints suppliers locally or on line.Ive used this on line store before when ive wanted special colours but im sure you can get normal colours locally.
Mart
http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/Nu-Agane-Car-Paints-01234-355990__W0QQ_armrsZ1QQ_fsubZ3195635QQ_scZ1QQ_sopZ1
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Cheers Martin
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Yeah - I always apply two or three coats of pain before primer. Helps it all stick!
Been using the sandpaper the wrong way round? :o
Makes a change from the usual blood, sweat and tears %) %)
Coming along well :-))
Danny
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Been using the sandpaper the wrong way round? :o
Makes a change from the usual blood, sweat and tears %) %)
Coming along well :-))
Danny
Hi Danny,
thanks, nice to hear from you. Plenty of sweat, not too many tears (yet) and a little blood gone into it so far!! How do you reckon it'll run in D class?
Glenn.
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How do you reckon it'll run in D class?
Ideal, nice and fast, might have a "bit" of difficulty in the bigger waves - the plus side would be that the other half won't be moaning about all the trophies she has to dust! ;)
Have fun.
Danny
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Is it wet yet Glenn :D
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Is it wet yet Glenn :D
Not painted yet - answer is no. But the engine has done about an hour of running in the Makara, it likes to rev!
Glenn
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I hear your motors like to rev Glenn ,should be ideal for the hydro ok2.
Mart
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I hear your motors like to rev Glenn ,should be ideal for the hydro ok2.
Mart
Where did you hear that? Hopefully you also heard that it starts easy and is a joy to use too!!
Glenn
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Brod told me last week when he picked up his new hatch i made for the stealth :-))
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I'd forgotten this build all the way down the forum :(( You've come a long way Glenn and it's looking good.
When will it hit the water?
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Hi Ian,
well, it is complete, and I am just waiting for the weather to warm up then my firend will paint it and it is done.
Apparently paint does not like the cold, and he is painting in his garage.
I have run the motor that is going into this boat in two of my other models, after intial teething troubles involving pipe length I got it on song and achieved nearly 50 in the heavy lump that is my Makara - so plenty of power, turning 18000RPM, so looking good.
It should be toward the end of May I think.
Glenn
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(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Whiplash%20engine%20tuning/th_DSCF0016.jpg) (http://s152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Whiplash%20engine%20tuning/?action=view¤t=DSCF0016.flv)
A little taster hopefully attached for those who have not seen a Whiplash inaction, this is my GV (Fibreglass) whip in action. It has the self tuned motor you saw. Going OK, more engine work needed to get the power I want from it.
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Good to see a video Glenn :o
get one with the new prop.
We will be over in summer..
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Wow, this is all so long ago, and loads of people have looked at the thread.
The boat remains built and un run currently, needs a flash of paint and rigging out and it will be good to run.
Keep watching and you will see some video of it running.
Glenn
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As I said in the last post I made, it has been way to long.
Anyway, I finally pulled my finger out last weekend after having an enjoyable day with the Whip GV and thought I would ifnd a painter.
The results are below and any motorcyclist will recognise Kawasaki "Mean Green"
It came out fine and shines like a very shiny thing.
The cowl needs to be done again and the painter would not let me have it, there must have been something on it as there were small indentations on the paint - he insists he is going to rub it down and start again.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Whipgreen1.jpg)
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Whipgreen2.jpg)
Should be easy enough to spot when on the water hopefully. All I need to now is find / or replace the parts I had put aside for building it up and assemble.
Glenn
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And for now the final few photos. Next time you see this I hope to have a video of it running linked into this (long running) build thread. It is nearly ready to go. All I am missing is the cover which is still with the painter. Engine runs, shaft in, radio in and tested.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Thebackendreadytogo.jpg)
The back of the boat
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Radioboxdone.jpg)
The radio box
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Enginereadytogo.jpg)
The motor and pipe installed.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s169/glennb2006/Thefrontendreadytogo.jpg)
The front of the boat.
Going to sort the pipe clamp arrangement out once it has run a few times, so if I can get the hatch tomorrow, I will run it this weekend I think.
Hope you have enjoyed the build. It has been fun.
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A lot of views registered but no comments - questions or interest.
I'll let you know how it runs - I think it should be one of the fastest boats in England.
Glenn
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Hi Glenn, a very nice hydro build! I hope you have a lot of fun with it.
I think that the lack of replies is NOT due to lack of interest, but it does take time to get your sight back to normal colours {-)
You probably need a special camera to try and reduce the intense shiny green-ness ..... how about Google Earth cam {-) {-) {-)
Looking forward to seeing the vid of it on the water.
Cheers
Danny
:kiss:
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Cheers Danny,
I'm still waiting for the hatch, but hopefully it should have been wet this time next week. Been a fun build, just took way too long. If it lives up to the hype then I'll keep this one and look to sell the fibreglass one.
It is a bit bright - and still shiny, that won't last long at our lake!! No doubt someone will run a prop across it before too long.
Glenn
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Long time since I was this far down the forum. Nice green Glenn. Reminds me of the green used by a Swedish V team, Pudenitroz.
Looking forward to pics and vids on the water :-))
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Long time since I was this far down the forum. Nice green Glenn. Reminds me of the green used by a Swedish V team, Pudenitroz.
Looking forward to pics and vids on the water :-))
Hi Ian,
yes, a long way down now. Just (still) waiting for the painter to get his act together and give me the cover.
Itching to get it wet. (I know it floats!!)
Video to follow some time soon hopefully.
Glenn
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Well the model is finished and ready to get wet, however our lake was closed for use by the local authority due to blue green algae infestation, however, as of today, 8th October 2011, we are back in business so we should get a run in the next week or so.
Glenn
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Good news Glenn, look forward to the vid and your comments.
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Wow only 2 yrs and 9 months down the line ,almost thought youd given up lol.
Mart
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Wow only 2 yrs and 9 months down the line ,almost thought youd given up lol.
Mart
Funny, it seems longer! %%. I was waiting to get to 10000 views before posting, but the big news is that I ran it today at the lake, perfect weather conditions, nice little chope so it was not too flat and for a base set up it flew, tracks nice and straight, turns very sharply and precisely. It is a completely different boat to the Whiplash GV, handling wise anyway.
Managed high 60's which for a first run is OK, and it did not have a particularly "hot" motor in it. I am well chuffed.
Fun was stopped by a dodgy no leak exhaust flange loosing the O ring.
Have since changed the flange and will be out again next week trying to get some set up time on it. I reckon there is still a lot to come from this one.
I will try and get one of the other guys to get some video next time out which I will post here.
Glenn
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Sounds good look forward to seeing some video just dont wait 2 yrs lol ok2.What you said about the difference between the kit version and the glass one seems to confirm what ive read about them too.
Mart
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Will try my best not to, someone has got me thinking and I might start to build another wooden one, this time the backlash to see how different it is. Not sure, I will see about that one, time is slipping away these days.
Got the exhaust flange changed out and it seems better, made a new exhaust bracket too which will enable me to get the pipe shorter where I need it. Hoping to pick up another 2000 revs and then get it somewhere into the low 70 mark.
Glenn
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Hooray - it made 10000 views!!
Anyone else out there tempted to put one together - or maybe a backlash?
Glenn
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Hooray - it made 10000 views!!
Anyone else out there tempted to put one together - or maybe a backlash?
Glenn
Seems I was the only one - backlash ordered and on the way in two weeks. I must have enjoyed this one after all!! {-)
New build thread? Maybe not, will be the same again I presume. Will maybe show some on the build photos from start to finish.
Glenn
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Where's the vid of the Whiplash then???? :}
Sorely tempted to buy and try the Backlash but having only got a boat on the water twice this year I don't feel that it would go down well with the better half... Hopefully next year will see more time for boats.
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Havent even got one boat wet this year,been too busy building them for others to enjoy but i hope to get a few wet next year %).
Mart
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Where's the vid of the Whiplash then???? :}
Sorely tempted to buy and try the Backlash but having only got a boat on the water twice this year I don't feel that it would go down well with the better half... Hopefully next year will see more time for boats.
Try for it tomorrow if any of the guys have a video camera with them.
Glenn
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Try for it tomorrow if any of the guys have a video camera with them.
Glenn
Still waiting........ <*< <*< <*< <*< Sorry but it's cold and dark here at the moment and I'm bored %% %%
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Still waiting........ <*< <*< <*< <*< Sorry but it's cold and dark here at the moment and I'm bored %% %%
Yeah long nights up there Ian, you can always go watch the aurora when it gets too much.
Bit of a disaster today, I got to the lake only to find no cowl or rear square covers - on the bench in the garage. Doh!! >:-o
So went to run my rigger instead and suffered engine cutting out problems and revving up and down, could not maintain throttle.
Found duff servo to be the cause, so only did about three laps with anything. {:-{
So maybe next time......
Glenn
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The backlash kit arrived. Heck, I thought that there were a lot of parts in the whip kit, this is like a mega puzzle.
I am going to build it over the Winter, plan being to run it in the Summer.
My Whip progresses on performance, we are around the 80MPH mark now so well happy with that, need to tone it down a little to be more of a race boat than an all out speed monster.
Handling so far has been impeccable.
Glenn
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Got a pic of the pile of sticks then Glenn?
Sounds like the Whip is going well...
I have a new project on the way, details... not yet ;D
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fZB6UlBhJrI&context=C46b0b4fADvjVQa1PpcFNBcTh7uhKoACmC2H-FC0IJ4Z1X71mAav4=
Here is a link to an onboard of a few laps of our lake from last Sunday on a Whip. Action starts at about 1 minute 30 or so, a bit bumpy as you would expect but it shuffles around OK, until I manage to hit one of our turn markers and burst it. Oops. No damage to the model though.
This one has a self tuned 30.5cc Zenoah in it.
My wood whip continues to run well, though I loned someone the prop and their shaft snapped so that was lost, I am going to do an engine swap on the wood whip to a J&G engine I am building up.
Someone did video the green meany in action but then failed to load it to You Tube so still no video of it, sorry.
I will get some though.
By the way, I sold on my Backlash kit so am going to stick with the wood whip, it is my litle baby now and I rather suprisingly was struggling to part with it, so the unborn child was moved on.
Glenn
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Wow i feel dizzy now lol,still tinkering with zens i see Glenn so no plans to try the cheaper k 30 cc rcmk engines yet ?,im ordering a cpl soon to go in one of my new skater cat hulls ill be producing in the summer hehe,cant beat the price of them even though they do need a starter swap by the sounds of it.
Mart
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What an angry bee swarm you've got there Glenn.... Still alive and kicking up north I gather. Look forward to more and to getting a boat on the water here.
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Wow i feel dizzy now lol,still tinkering with zens i see Glenn so no plans to try the cheaper k 30 cc rcmk engines yet ?,im ordering a cpl soon to go in one of my new skater cat hulls ill be producing in the summer hehe,cant beat the price of them even though they do need a starter swap by the sounds of it.
Mart
Hi there Mart,
Dizziness caused from having to do several shorter laps inside the course to try and move the wildlife before I could go around (or through!) the buouys.
Oh yes, lots of tinkering goiing on up our way, mainly by me. I do the big bore Zens like the one in the video and they go really well with little effort, the beauty being they will run a large variety of props and are not too pipe sensitive - they are VERY thirsty though, and need so much air I have had to rethink more than one models venitlation. Worth it though.
But I do still like the J&G motors, they are the much more finesse option but when you get one running nicely they are a dream.
Someone ran an Arrow on it's maiden voyage last Sunday. Went pretty well.
Glenn
What an angry bee swarm you've got there Glenn.... Still alive and kicking up north I gather. Look forward to more and to getting a boat on the water here.
Yep,
we are all still well and kicking up here, or down here relative to you in HSB. Hope that you are well.
The motor is a bit buzzy, it is turning the 6719/3 in the Whiplashe to 19000 so it really needs a little more prop to drop the revs down a wee bit, but it does come off the corners well as it is.
Glenn
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Yea the 29-30 cc zens seem to go really well m8 a friend had his Arrow to 65 on its maiden with one a local guy modded.Only wish i had time to actually run a boat been too busy lateley.
Mart