Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Submarines => Topic started by: bbdave on February 09, 2008, 01:26:08 pm
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Hi just got home with the kit i'll be posting the build on here,but won't be getting the sticky stuff out yet untill i've read the instructions till they're worn out. so there will be lots of questions and problems posted here with the pics. Let the games begin!! ;D
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Hi BB Dave. Glad you are happy with the kit just going in the garage to get the fleet ready for Sunday morning.If you open up the warship section on mayhem Look for Gambier Bay you should see some pictures of my carrier. Hope to see you at Harrogate in May.
All the best
Stan
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Ok on reading the instructions it seems a fair amount of the joints are done with cyno is this considered a good joint? as i assumed cyno to be very brittle and would eventualy fail.
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Hello Dave,
Regarding your question about cyano, just about all the internal " frame " joints are glued using cyano, and when "fixed" are solid, if you have to undo the joint you have to physically tear apart the plastic the joint is VERY strong.
Make sure that it is right first time or you will have probs trying to fix it if its not in the correct position.
Build the frame up DRY first to ensure all is correct AND NOT TWISTED. I have seen some where the internal frame has not been given the care attention that is required when building and it looks awful and sealing problems follow later.
When correct you can always go over with Stabilit Express to reinforce the joints if you wish. I would reccomend STABILIT EXPRESS for the rest of the build as ROBBE do , not a cheap glue but very durable and it will stick all the brass parts to the plastic too. O0
It does pong a bit so do it when "she" is out for the day unless you have a centrally heated workshop / shed that is {-)
If you are going for the Engel tank dive system you need to mod the internal frame / tray from the start to allow for the tank and reinforce it at certain points, just ask and I will give you some info and pics ( if you want that is ).
Also the screw joint needs SILVER soldering too, there is a lot of stress put on this one piece of the kit and I have seen / heard of this snapping when screwed in on some boats when soft soldered as it tells you too in the instructions and its a hell of a job to get it out again when half of it is stuck in the boat !!!!! >:(
Hope this is of use. regards sub
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Thanks sub driver i've started to cut out the hull mouldings can you tell me how best to remove the parts from the flat sheet material it seems very tough to cut.
also the hull sections i have cut seem to have a slight curve to them and are fidley to marry up is that normal?
The centre keel re-enforcement strip is tapered at each end does the keel pinch at either end to meet up with it, i am asking this as the instructions don't mention it they just say lay it flat and glue it?
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I take it you are on with the central tray, you can use a fret saw or band saw , it should be scored about 1/2 way through so you only really have to cut the solid bits and then you should be able to fold and snap out the part you require. O0
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does anyone know what current draw the kit motors have?
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Never put an ammeter on a set, but they are powerful motors, hence rather thirsty.
If you are fitting a ballast tank, then it's worth looking at less powerful motors- the power is needed for a dynamic diver to get sufficient speed to produce the required downforce on the hydrovanes to submerge.
Also worth considering 12 volt electrics if you upgrade the motor.
Andy
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I to am building the U47, i will get the motors out later and put the clip on ammeter on them.
What voltage are you intending to run at?
Russ
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hello bbdave, be careful when using cynao, these glues can present breathing problems. The u-47 uses plenty of this type of adhesive. I use a face mask when building models with this glue....Mick
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Ok i just tested the motors on the bench and they pulled 0.3amps running on 6 volt and 0.9 amps running on 12 volt, i couldnt stall them completely but very close and they were pulling 8.5 - 11 amps respec
Cheers
Russ
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cheers russ handy to know i think i'll stick to 6v as i'm not wanting to run fast
i have seperated the hull parts and they don't marry up to well is that normal? is it just a case of tack gluing them together first then putting the re-enforcing strips in then filling any gaps later?
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I bought my kit second hand and to be honest the hull parts were cut out but not very good, i have sanded but i dont think you can get them spot on, however the centre hull section and the front hull section can be filled and sanded to achieve a good finish, with the rear section that needs to be quite flush because we cannot fill this gap, i am finding now that there is a few pieces missing but i can make most from scratch.
Russ
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I have noticed in the kit the wotsits (can't remember the name) that hold the square :-\ rod into the hydroplanes apear to be mild steel if this is the case are stainless or brass ones readily available if so where from?
Collets!
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just about any model shop. Just ask for ones for youre I/Dia
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Built my sub using Cyno two years ago - still going strong with no failures (famous last words)
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Tried a test today with cyno might just be me but i'm not happy with it so i think i'll use stabliit i have more confidence in it . i'm just not a cyno fan i'm affraid ???
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All the bits have arrived today so the build can start. after many hours of reading and looking on the web i have decided to copy a method i have seen for constructing a new tech rack whih i think will be easyier than modifying the orriginal with this in mind i have bought a bayonet ring for wtc.
Dream arts tower deck and bayonett ring.
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/P1000397.jpg)
Engel tank with proportional control. and the centre sections cut ready for the masks.
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/P1000396.jpg)
I have some 4mm acrylic to make the tech rack i am copying this chaps idea which looks straight forward enough as long as i take my time. What could possibly go wrong???? :-\
http://media.putfile.com/u47-static-conversion
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Glueing started this evening i have glued the slot masks on and i am now waiting for the glue to set on the joint for the centre section hull so far so good. i am glad i opted for the stabilit aproach as i have time to line every thing up.
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/P1000402.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/P1000403.jpg)
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i have got a little further i have got all the hull halves together now and have installed the tube in the centre section i decided to fit the planes and rudders after the hulls are glued together as i think it'll be easier to line everything up. i have built the first section of the tech rack which took alot of measuring but it seems to fit. the rest of the rack should hopfully be straight forward as it is jus a case of positioning the bulkheads where needed to accomodate all the gear. then comes the job of arranging the glueing order of the stern section end cap tech rack and bayonet ring :D but i'm sure it will all become clear.
Hull halves stuck together
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/P1000428.jpg)
The first part of the bayonet ring attached using stabilit then epoxy and glass mat.
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/P1000429-1.jpg)
The motor bulkhead servo tray and endcap bulkhead ready for the rest of the tech rack.
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/P1000430.jpg)
if anyone spots any problems please let me know as this is quite a steep learning curve ;D
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I have done some more work on the tech rack which seems to be ok so far there looks to be plenty of room but i'm sure that'll dissapear when all the gubbins comes.
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/P1000431.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/P1000432.jpg)
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for some reason all my pictures have gone off photobucket but i have them back now so i'll post the last few on here as a recap.
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000428.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000429-1.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000430.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000432.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000431.jpg)
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Nice work on the rack :)
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Been busy the past couple of days i've completed the rear section which was the most complicated part in my mind but it has all glued up fine so hopefully it should be fairly straight forward from here.
The rear a Aframes glued after being carefully lined up an measured to many times to mention
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000433.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000438.jpg)
The bayonet ring fixed to the rack
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000436.jpg)
The rear section being glued to the rear of the rack a nervous moment hoping all the lining up and measuring has paid off
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000441.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000439.jpg)
Hey presto! i love it when a plan comes together.
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000443.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000442.jpg)
Time for a celebratory cup of tea
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Yesterday i made all the linkages to the rudders and rear planes sealed up the shafts etc ready for the bath later today so fingers crossed there will be no leaks :'(. if all goes well i'll be then ready to glue the bow on and concetrate on the bow planes. So a few pictures of the install which doesn't look pretty but it is a very small space to work in so most of it is done using long nosed pliers which adds to the problem :D
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000446.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000445.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000444.jpg)
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Hi yesterday evening i had a test in the bath and found a small leak around one of the propshafts which was quickly re-sealed then another duncking this morning which was leak free i blew into the valve to preasurise the cylinder until i couldn't get any more air in the only air that came out was around the prop tubes which arn't greased yet so that will cure that so all watertight which is better than i expected O0.
I started to make a watertight box for the bow servo which will be sealed with copious amounts of sealant and fitted into the bow when it's fitted.
Just finished glueing the bow section on she's starting to look like a type vii now need all my batteries cable etc. to arrive so i can wire her up and go scare the pond life before filling all the joints and then the real fun starts decking her and painting {-)
Bath test
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000449.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000450.jpg)
Watertight bow plane servo
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000448.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000453.jpg)
The bow section attached
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000451.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000452.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000454.jpg).
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Well all the electrical bits were got today and this evening i set about them with soldering iron and crimpers and after a couple of hours it looked like a spiders web but with batteries connected it all seems to work i just need to tidy it all up a bit ::).
All the bits
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000456.jpg)
plenty to go wrong! but hopefully not
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000457.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000458.jpg)
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I have now completed the bow planes servo i tested it in a bowl of water and it seems watertight O0 i fitted it in the bow using plenty of silicone so that cross fingers is the last of the running gear.
Started the tower which for me is very fiddley but alot of the small parts i'm going to leave off i think they won't survive model life the ones i've fitted i'm dubious about but nothing i can't fix when they get knocked off. I'm not very impressed with Dream-arts tower it has needed alot of work to get to line up correctly the mouldings married up eventualy but were still off centre and the vertical lines are way off true! they didn't supply enough wire to finish the job but none of these problems arise till i started building it at which point it's to late to send back. Maybe i should have gone for the Acurate armour option even though it's 1/35 i'm surwe no one would have noticed.
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000460.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000461.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000462.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000463.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000464.jpg)
Notice the solder join on the short wire length!
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000465.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000466.jpg)
the very small gun which is proving a struggle
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000468.jpg)
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Impressive! O0
What did you use to glue the perspex together for the bow servo?
Martin
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Thanks Martin i initialy used waterproof cyno then i went over all the joints with plenty of silicone it's not pretty but should keep the water out. hopefully she might be ready for the mayhem weekend ::)
probably not a question for here but i've found that now the servo is in place it chatters in use but it worked fine before being stuck in what could the reasons be non of the other servos are doing it just the bow.
Dave
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To test if the servo or leads are faulty, have you tried plugging in another servo to that channel ?
Ken
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Test it for a few minutes every day as it may me that horrible vapour that silicon sealant gives off, it sometimes dirties up the contacts, in particular the position sensor potentiometer inside the servo. A few 'end to ends' should clean it up.
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Cheers Martin i never knew it did that! every day is a day at school
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Silicone bath sealant is air curing and contains formic acid, hence the acidic odour, this stuff can be very corrosive and may affect electronics under certain conditions.
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I've been operating the servo now each day and it has improved a greatly so that was obviously the problem O0
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Hi BBD, sounds like the pot wiper arm may have tarnished slightly so perhaps your continued operations may have cleaned it a bit but you may find it does it again if the boat is layed up for a while. Suck it and see as they say!
Good luck with your project.
Chris
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Been busy lately so not had the chance to upload the pics but she's practicaly done now only really the anttena to put on she has been in the pond and everything seems ok at the moment so i may get to the lake this week fingers crossed for the weather so heres the pictures up to today.
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/065a3b66.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/ce3e0cd6.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/fc1b8c1e.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/4e297579.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/40d8e0ec.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/422e00ff.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/764bf07e.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/233103a4.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/ebd673a4.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/d8ad7510.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/c387e809.jpg)
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You have been busy! :o
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See what happens when theres nothing on telly and bobs not around buying tea!
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A week ago finaly went to the big lake she performed well but i'm goin to trim her lower to make sbmerged running easier i only got one pic as i was to busy playing and enjoying myself O0
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/U-47/P1000513.jpg)
i'll try to do more tomorrow if i'm not busy again ::)
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You had better not be too busy tommorrow it's your turn to buy the tea :police:
Cheers
BobB P.S. my pics are quite good and the video
Spell checked just in case the spelling Police are about
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All the bits have arrived today so the build can start. after many hours of reading and looking on the web i have decided to copy a method i have seen for constructing a new tech rack whih i think will be easyier than modifying the orriginal with this in mind i have bought a bayonet ring for wtc.
Dream arts tower deck and bayonett ring.
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/P1000397.jpg)
Engel tank with proportional control. and the centre sections cut ready for the masks.
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/P1000396.jpg)
I have some 4mm acrylic to make the tech rack i am copying this chaps idea which looks straight forward enough as long as i take my time. What could possibly go wrong???? :-\
http://media.putfile.com/u47-static-conversion
The vid' is mine :D.
Today I would do some of the work in an other way. Most of all I would choose PVC rather than acrylic. Acrylic breaks to easy.
After finished my static conversion I had to mount a LR2 Lageregler because its impossible to control the sub without. Without LR2 then boat bounces up and down when in a dive.
I decided not to use the stern serveo and rudder. Its running better without.
But very interesting to build a static diving sub. A lot more challenges as you can't always know the results from your choises.
Regards,
Tom
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I've started on this boat too, certainly room for improvement on the instructions side of things and better pictures too.
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What radio system do you use on your boat mate? My batteries came today and i need the radio now.
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You want a 40mhz set with a minimum of 4-channels, but preferably 6-channels or more, this will give you the flexibility to add more functions later on.
If you intend to expand your fleet a computer TX can offer some benefit, but not as much as some would have you believe.
Manufacturers I recommend are Futaba, Hitec and Multiplex. Be wary of unbranded 'cheap as chips' sets unless they have been thoroughly tested in the field. Submarines place extra special demands on reception quality so you want the best you can get.
Dual conversion receivers appear to be worth the extra beer vouchers.
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The 8 channel Robbe (Futaba) F14 is particularly good value for a non computer radio http://www.hobbydirekt.de/Robbe2/Robbe/Fernsteuerungen/F14-4-8-1-40MHZ-Robbe-1-F4039-F4039::80968.html
and can be expanded as needed with various switches and sliders etc...
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Looks like very good advice, to me, in the previous 2 posts.
If you are feeling cautious buy 2 !
(I can't see the supply of 40MHz equipment becoming very easy in the future.)
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Well i've ordered an F14 as advised, any idea of an ESC? as the Rokraft ones seem to be evading me.
I've got the Robbe 6v 5ah batteries for the U-47. Thanks. Ian.
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Get this one http://microgyros.com/electronic_speed_controllers.html
I have about 4 of them now.
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They also have a built in throttle failsafe- very handy for submarines.
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Hi from trev. I am building a U47 it is my 1st sub but i have made r/c models before.It is a static diving fitted with a engel 852 tank.It is far from finished but i hope to take it to brookwell on sunday,
(http://s2.postimage.org/2otkmadic/01_15.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2otkmadic/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2ou4gqjfo/01_3.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2ou4gqjfo/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2ovn1gzqc/01_19.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2ovn1gzqc/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2ovym8f6s/01_20.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2ovym8f6s/)
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Looks great, and well done on fitting your first sub with a tank! These Robbe boats dive much more realistically with the extra ballast. See you at Brockwell.
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Where did you get your wiring stuff from mate? my local shop doesn't deal with subs so wasn't any help in this dept.
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HI silent running, i got my wire from maplins in stevanage it is 15amp power lead for car amps?. I am haveing problems with the motors (I only room for 2x5C cells plus 4C cell rx pack,I do not like bec) I have swop the motors for low drain 540 but still not happy :((
(http://s4.postimage.org/tu4vqjl0/PTDC0028.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/tu4vqjl0/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/tvsf31d0/01_5.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/tvsf31d0/)
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Aaah, have you got somewhere in mind for testing it? Fairlands Valley maybe?
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its 1st full test willbe at brookwell.it has been tested in a very small pound eg.10x6 by 18" deep
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Well you couldn't get a better test tank. Bring swimming trunks and a towel, just in case! :-))