Topic: Sheerline Akula (Read 30977 times)

thegrimreaper · « **on:** November 17, 2010, 05:13:57 pm »

Hiya guys my Sheerline Akula arrived today if no one minds while i build the sub i will put some pics up as i go along wont be a quick build due to work any hint`s or tips along the way would be gratefuly received

first off whats in the big box

Like a kid on Christmas day

Lots of packing

The two halfs of the hull

lots of little bags with more bits in

and of course destructions

With many thanks to Chris for the service he provided

to be continued >>>>>>

Subculture · « **Reply #1 on:** November 17, 2010, 06:39:13 pm »

If the boat doesn't come with one, get a leveller, it'll be much more satisfying to run with one.

dreadnought72 · « **Reply #2 on:** November 17, 2010, 07:25:42 pm »

Quote from: thegrimreaper on November 17, 2010, 05:13:57 pm

... if no one minds ...

Hey, this is MBM! Of course no-one minds. (But we'll need pictures as you go!)

Andy

Mankster · « **Reply #3 on:** November 17, 2010, 07:49:21 pm »

Painting is by far the most time comsuming part of building this boat, you should be able to have here ready for bath testing tomorrow

thegrimreaper · « **Reply #4 on:** November 17, 2010, 08:06:06 pm »

maybe if i was you mankster but i have come across a small snag the screws i have for the servo`s are to small for the pre drilled holes so its a trip to Q & B in the morning at the moment i am slot cutting

dont think i want a typhoon now ha ha

thegrimreaper · « **Reply #5 on:** November 18, 2010, 08:12:22 pm »

Got a bit more done today drilled out the bottom flood holes and also took out the side slots also put the reciever and servo`s in position in the process of making the cam for the ballast tank op`s

will post more as and when i do a bit more

thegrimreaper · « **Reply #6 on:** November 22, 2010, 04:52:04 pm »

few more pictures for you build is going well will have wtc in the test tank (bath ) tonight with any luck

front dive planes in position also wtc end plate in position

wtc rear end plate in position and also prop shaft support

rudder and rear dive plane linkages in place and lead ballest in loose position ready for ballancing

battery and end stop in position

front velcro wtc hold down strap in place
continued..........

gyronuts · « **Reply #7 on:** November 22, 2010, 09:42:57 pm »

have you managed to get a leveller? if so which one did you buy and where did you get it
I have an old spirit one but don't know if it works. Bill

thegrimreaper · « **Reply #8 on:** November 22, 2010, 11:08:23 pm »

going to give it a go without a leveler at first i fancy the chalange

Number 6 · « **Reply #9 on:** November 23, 2010, 08:06:31 am »

Making me jealous. Looking good, you don't hang about with the building! Is cutting the slots out making you psychotic yet?

Keep the pics coming, regards, Dave.

Subculture · « **Reply #10 on:** November 23, 2010, 12:46:11 pm »

Quote from: thegrimreaper on November 22, 2010, 11:08:23 pm

going to give it a go without a leveler at first i fancy the chalange

You can run without a leveller, but you won't run as well. Basically running without a leveller is a little like flying a model aeroplane nice and level six inches off the deck- possible but quite difficult and you need a great deal of concentration.

For levellers, I always recommend microgyro's. Not sure about current availability, Mike is swimming in ESC's at the moment (also excellent)!

http://www.microgyros.com/model_submarine_electronics.html

Other makes are Subtech

http://www.subtech.co

Engel

http://www.engel-modellbau.eu/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=2_87&products_id=621

Norbert

http://modelluboot.de/Elektronik/LageBriefmE.html

Christian Feldmann

http://momo.tsmw.de/cms/index.php?id=11&L=3

Andy

thegrimreaper · « **Reply #11 on:** November 23, 2010, 06:49:08 pm »

Thanks for the links andy have you by any chance watched me with a model airplane flying streight and level at a hight of 6 inches PHttttt bang crunch

flew helicopters a long while ago now that was bl**dy hard

will probably end up spending more money on a leveler anyway could always ask father Xmas

thegrimreaper · « **Reply #12 on:** November 27, 2010, 09:10:40 pm »

Few more pictures of my build

top hull hold down bolt

Pod and upper fin fixed in place will be fitting brass rings to air release holes in top of pod

just another angle on the pod and rear fin

two forward servos fitted top is for forward dive planes lower is to control the dive pump with the cam on the top of the servo

two rear servos top is for rear dive planes lower is for rudder control

more to follow.....................................

thegrimreaper · « **Reply #13 on:** December 07, 2010, 12:05:28 pm »

A few more pics for you to peruse

Periscopes mostly done just need to sort out one more ................

Navigation lights in position and working got to sort out a couple of reed switches for on/off ops

The third pic is similar to the one above but you can just make out the orange strobe light striking up
not sure if this light is in the correct place but it looks good

Mankster · « **Reply #14 on:** December 07, 2010, 12:13:44 pm »

Looking good so far

thegrimreaper · « **Reply #15 on:** December 07, 2010, 08:40:45 pm »

Got the Top and Bottom catch done was not a simple job in the end what I did was fix the bottom clip in place with resin waited for it to set then fitted the top clip to the bottom clip
I then ran a piece of insulation tape around both the clips. I then taped the top and bottom edges of the hull to catch any resin drips from the next step while the two clips were held together
by the tape I ran resin onto the edge of the top clip support plate then carefully lowered the top hull onto the bottom hull using tape on the outside to hold everything together
I hope that makes sense

here is the end product anyway it all works as its supposed to and holds the front hull top to the bottom

this is the bottom clip

this is the top clip

more to come at a later date

thegrimreaper · « **Reply #16 on:** December 09, 2010, 02:17:37 pm »

Forgot to mention that when the resin is dry you need to borrow a long knife (carving) while her indoors aint looking slip the said knife between the top and bottom hull joint and cut the insulation tape you can then check the ops of the catch

gyronuts · « **Reply #17 on:** December 11, 2010, 01:18:24 pm »

finally got some enthusiasm as the snow melts. Ballasting went well and now have to weigh all the add on bits such as steel drills etc to replace them with pucker lead ballast. very impressed. Bill

Mankster · « **Reply #18 on:** December 11, 2010, 02:22:46 pm »

Nice bath.
Is the second pic with the ballast tank empty or does she sit higher up in the water than that?

gyronuts · « **Reply #19 on:** December 11, 2010, 03:09:52 pm »

With the ballast used and the boat surfaced at picture 2 took 15 secs to submerge so probably too much ballast. I will need to experiment.
Picture 3 after 10 secs of pump!!!

gyronuts · « **Reply #20 on:** December 11, 2010, 09:41:47 pm »

my instructions say the waterline should be 2 1/2 inches above top/bottom hull join so too much ballast.

sheerline · « **Reply #21 on:** December 12, 2010, 11:57:28 am »

Hi Bill, she should go down in around 30 secs from fully blown on a fully charged battery.
If you want to get the ballast about right, take some out, fully pump the tank with water, (give it around 40 secs) and close the valve. You will find she is still sitting on the surface due to too little ballast so start putting some in until she just sinks to the bottom. Add a little more so she is just a little heavier. Once you have done this, blow the tank and she will surface. Leave her for around 40 seconds to ensure the tank is completely blown and where she sits on the surface now will be your waterline. ... simples!! You should now find you have around 30secs dive time when the pump is operated again
She's looking good old chap.
Regards.
Chris

thegrimreaper · « **Reply #22 on:** December 15, 2010, 07:34:48 pm »

Ok finaly got my Akula wet for real today followed Chris`s instructions and purfik submerged all the way to the bottom of the sea sorry sorry meant bath all i have got to do now is put a bit of deck detail and then onto the paint job
few pics now of the sub in the bath a bit earlier today

the LED lights run of a seperate battery pack along with the strob light which was obtained from a promotion board from Boots batterys are 3 watch batterys total 9 volts switching them on and off from a pair of reed switches and a magnet

thegrimreaper · « **Reply #23 on:** December 29, 2010, 11:54:12 am »

A couple more pic`s of the Akula with some deck detail the detail was found on different pictures on the net and then a guestimate made as to how big/small where they should be was made
will be bath testing again today just to fine balance the sub before the paint job I will have to warm the shed up a bit for the spraying

and may I take this oppertunity to wish one and all a very merry Christmas and all the best for the new year, may your god be with you.

Mark

gyronuts · « **Reply #24 on:** December 30, 2010, 03:10:38 pm »

reballasted to get the boat to float at the correct depth. Tape indicates 21/2 inches up from hull join. Took 50 secs to submerge completely. White band is a rubber band to hold any lead ballast on.Bill
AK1,2 and 3 ..ready to dive

AK4 after 50 secs
HAPPY NEW YEAR ONE AND ALL

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Author Topic: Sheerline Akula (Read 30977 times)

thegrimreaper

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gyronuts

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