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Author Topic: New build-Club 500 class  (Read 16830 times)

F1 madness

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Re: New build-Club 500 class
« Reply #50 on: December 09, 2010, 10:08:50 PM »

Hi mate for moulding you need to first decide how your going to join the two parts,my advice would be shoebox as its quick easy and strong.Also you can then offer different coloured tops and bottoms etc,keep it simple  :-)).What you need to do is make the top plug bigger than the hull itself so it overlaps about 1/8" all the way round,fix each plug to a board then when moulded it creates a flange on the mould which makes the mould stronger etc.The other way is make them a seamless join this is more dificult to do as a parting dam needs making arround the hull where the halves will be joined then mould one half then leaving the  mould on the hull its flipped and you mould the other half which creates a perfect  oposite mould and you will then be able to join the two halves in the moulds with a resin bog which when you pop the parts leaves a thin line of resin which needs removing and smoothing over.Then you will need to glass the seam inside also,much more work and too much for such a cost effective budget project maybe?.

cheers mart was gonna make a parting board and framework as thought it would be easier.the other option was to cut the hull in half then glue it to a piece of board but that aint gonna be easy LOL

try the top one I used them some years ago for car chassies and as you only want small pieces it mat be cheap

http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/



http://www.carbonmods.co.uk/departments/carbon-fibre-sheet.aspx

Peter

Cheers pete ill have a look now :-))
 
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martno1fan

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Re: New build-Club 500 class
« Reply #51 on: December 09, 2010, 10:29:15 PM »

You could make your own,all you needs two sheets of glass some carbon and some resin,wax the glass first  ok2.
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F1 madness

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Re: New build-Club 500 class
« Reply #52 on: December 10, 2010, 09:42:10 AM »

Hey bud will sort it some how,not gonna worry to much about it at mo,just want to get finished for moulding
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martno1fan

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Re: New build-Club 500 class
« Reply #53 on: December 10, 2010, 10:32:43 AM »

If you make another deck just oversise with 1/4" depth that would make your top mould,moulding the bottom part would be easy enough even from the existing hull especially if you glue a parting dam to it to form the lip for the mould.A balsa plug will most likeley break when removing it from the mould mind,been there done that so its a one chance thing lol.
Mart
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F1 madness

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Re: New build-Club 500 class
« Reply #54 on: December 10, 2010, 10:48:38 AM »

Alrite mart,the only part that is balsa is the canopy but im going to glass cloth it inside and out to stop it from breaking up,ill have a look at doing another top shortly.
Cheers mart
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martno1fan

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Re: New build-Club 500 class
« Reply #55 on: December 10, 2010, 11:17:10 AM »

No probs mate plenty of time yet,im sure you want to concentrate on getting this one running first etc.Look forward to seeing how she goes  :-)).
Mart
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F1 madness

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Re: New build-Club 500 class
« Reply #56 on: December 10, 2010, 12:45:29 PM »

Got the servo mount made and installed(ill be using the hor alloy 1 in the fibreglass versions) hole drilled in transom for the brass tube to put the bellow on to,bent z for fixing to the servo horn.




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F1 madness

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Re: New build-Club 500 class
« Reply #57 on: December 10, 2010, 01:15:28 PM »

Just sorted out the cooling inlet (through the hull) and the outlet,gonna use the pick thats on the bottom of the strut,if its no good ill do another.


Iv used some alloy tube for the outlet and sanded it flush.
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F1 madness

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Re: New build-Club 500 class
« Reply #58 on: December 13, 2010, 05:50:33 PM »

Well after a couple of crap days iv finnally manage to get this all put together,all thats left now is to final sand it,glass cloth a little filling and paint.
Where everything is at the mo CG is around 35% from transom,and overall weight is 2lbs 1 ounce.







I am thinking of changing motor to either the outrunner i already got or purchasing the same motor but 4000kv,and also gonna order a 30mm,1.4 prop
:D:D
Was thinking of calling it GLS 500 (Goes like stink 500) Thanks to Martin-admin LOL,think i might run it 1st though mmmmmmmm
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Martin [Admin]

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Re: New build-Club 500 class
« Reply #59 on: December 13, 2010, 06:22:47 PM »

Can I ask a side question? (.... well I'm gonna anyway! )  :P

When you say "CG is around 35% from transom" why from the transom?
 I would say the boat actually ends at the prop on an outrigger!

 
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F1 madness

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Re: New build-Club 500 class
« Reply #60 on: December 13, 2010, 06:33:11 PM »

Can I ask a side question? (.... well I'm gonna anyway!   :P)

When you say "CG is around 35% from transom" why from the transom?
 I would say the boat actually ends at the prop on an outrigger!

 

I work out the CG based on the length of the hull,which is from tip to transom,then fine tune the CG once in the water but i find working from the transom is the best place to start from.
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martno1fan

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Re: New build-Club 500 class
« Reply #61 on: December 13, 2010, 09:45:17 PM »

Can I ask a side question? (.... well I'm gonna anyway! )  :P

When you say "CG is around 35% from transom" why from the transom?
 I would say the boat actually ends at the prop on an outrigger!

 

A boats cog is worked out from the transom not where the prop is  O0
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Martin [Admin]

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Re: New build-Club 500 class
« Reply #62 on: December 14, 2010, 02:38:10 PM »


Agreed on both counts.

But on a boat like this the CofG would be too far forward when at full flight because only a fraction of the hull would be in the water and the 'moment arm' would be measured from the point of applied force, ie. the propeller. Surely if you could get it right at the design stage, it could eliminate the necessity of trim-tabs! That a point, should the CofG measurement also include the trim-tabs?!!!

Am I being augmentative? Sorry, I live with a teenage son... and he obviously knows EVERYTHING and I think it's rubbing off on me!


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gregk9

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Re: New build-Club 500 class
« Reply #63 on: December 14, 2010, 02:51:06 PM »

Why not have the "cog" adjustable "to a small degree" by the individual? say by making the battery position/locator moveable?
if this is to be a "club racing boat" this could be one of few "variables" for the individual racer to adjust, within the rules so to speak.  making everything 100% now leaves no option for the individual, but getting the boat 99% allows a little bit of "edge" for  those wanting perfection.

I'm still a little wary of seeing the "result" of 6 or 8 of these in the water in one go, racing around a circuit we have planned, but only time will tell I suppose.

if the boat is going for "retail", then yes, by all means it needs to be 100% "RFT"
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martno1fan

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Re: New build-Club 500 class
« Reply #64 on: December 14, 2010, 03:44:26 PM »


Agreed on both counts.

But on a boat like this the CofG would be too far forward when at full flight because only a fraction of the hull would be in the water and the 'moment arm' would be measured from the point of applied force, ie. the propeller. Surely if you could get it right at the design stage, it could eliminate the necessity of trim-tabs! That a point, should the CofG measurement also include the trim-tabs?!!!

Am I being augmentative? Sorry, I live with a teenage son... that obviously knows EVERYTHING!




Trim tabs on a cat ? lol no no no  %%.
Martin people have been using this way of finding a boats cog for years and it works so why over think it   ok2.You cant work out a boats cog at the design stage as each boats different depending on what power, weight and props are used etc it all alters things so every boat has to be fine tuned on the water and things changed if need be.
Mart
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F1 madness

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Re: New build-Club 500 class
« Reply #65 on: December 14, 2010, 03:47:30 PM »


Agreed on both counts.

But on a boat like this the CofG would be too far forward when at full flight because only a fraction of the hull would be in the water and the 'moment arm' would be measured from the point of applied force, ie. the propeller. Surely if you could get it right at the design stage, it could eliminate the necessity of trim-tabs! That a point, should the CofG measurement also include the trim-tabs?!!!

Am I being augmentative? Sorry, I live with a teenage son... that obviously knows EVERYTHING!




Hi mart  my boats are designed not to run trim tabs there designed to be driven on the egde thats the point of tunnels,having the cg where it is at this starting will tell me if it needs to be moved back or forward.And another thing is tunnels/cats/hydros do not run trim tabs any,and any well set up mono does not need them either and this is all controlled by the cg placement,if the nose is light while running move the CG forward a little if its running wet move it back till you find that sweet planeing altitude and maximum speeds of what the electronics will deliver.
When setting up my boats the outboard and the strut are both adjustable,how ever i only ever adjust these if the efficient cg cannot be altered any more,the angle of the prop/strut/outboard is set to neutral position.
Rgds Daz
Why not have the "cog" adjustable "to a small degree" by the individual? say by making the battery position/locator moveable?
if this is to be a "club racing boat" this could be one of few "variables" for the individual racer to adjust, within the rules so to speak.  making everything 100% now leaves no option for the individual, but getting the boat 99% allows a little bit of "edge" for  those wanting perfection.

I'm still a little wary of seeing the "result" of 6 or 8 of these in the water in one go, racing around a circuit we have planned, but only time will tell I suppose.

if the boat is going for "retail", then yes, by all means it needs to be 100% "RFT"

Hey bud the cg is not a 100%,it will be all down to whats being run,yes the motors,esc,hardware will be the same,the batts will make alot of difference,iv got a 2s,3000mah batts made by 1 company,yet the same size batt made by another company is slightly heavier.
Another question is why so wary,it will be no different than having 6-8 of the other boats going round just a little faster,yes there will be accidents its racing an somtimes just unavoidable,Just like driving down the road and some1 hits,its the same thing.
This will be a fun class to participate in if the members are all in agree.
Only time and testing will reveal how this will unfold,and im sure the other members will enjoy it too
Daz
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martno1fan

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Re: New build-Club 500 class
« Reply #66 on: December 14, 2010, 03:48:49 PM »

Why not have the "cog" adjustable "to a small degree" by the individual? say by making the battery position/locator moveable?
if this is to be a "club racing boat" this could be one of few "variables" for the individual racer to adjust, within the rules so to speak.  making everything 100% now leaves no option for the individual, but getting the boat 99% allows a little bit of "edge" for  those wanting perfection.

I'm still a little wary of seeing the "result" of 6 or 8 of these in the water in one go, racing around a circuit we have planned, but only time will tell I suppose.

if the boat is going for "retail", then yes, by all means it needs to be 100% "RFT"

I agree having the battery location adjustable so you can use that to alter the boats balance point if need be is a good idea.This said id think that for those wanting to race offering a kit rather than a rtr boat would be a better option so then people can do it the way they want to,but for a sports boater just offer the rtr version with adjustable battery location etc.
Mart
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F1 madness

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Re: New build-Club 500 class
« Reply #67 on: December 14, 2010, 05:33:53 PM »

When we spoke at the last meeting with the members and the chairman (mark) the idea was to have Artr boats,with all the same motor,hardware,esc,prop etc for the members to race each other on the pool,with equal power etc then it will be down to the driver and setup, the battery placement is not fixed anyway,but iv set up like this for balance and cg just to start with and get it on the water and to make sure their is plenty of room for everything to fit,also dont forget that this 1 in the going to be the plug for the fibreglass versions which will have more room inside them,due to the lack of framework that will be inside,so the placement of everything is not the finished result,it will be completly different for the moulded 1s,im only done it like this for getting it on the water and testing the hull design itself,if its fast and handles what ever i throw at it with in reason then i know the fibreglass versions will do as well.
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martno1fan

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Re: New build-Club 500 class
« Reply #68 on: December 14, 2010, 05:44:22 PM »

I'm with you Daz and don't worry the glass ones will be even easier to setup as you say not to mention nice and shiny  ;).Sometimes people over think things when the best thing to do is test things out on the water just as i know you do with all your designs.
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F1 madness

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Re: New build-Club 500 class
« Reply #69 on: December 14, 2010, 06:06:48 PM »

I'm with you Daz and don't worry the glass ones will be even easier to setup as you say not to mention nice and shiny  ;).Sometimes people over think things when the best thing to do is test things out on the water just as i know you do with all your designs.

Cheers mart,as you know i test all my hulls to the limit, theres no point in moulding somthing that is useless,especially when my name is on it.
Wait till its painted will be nice and shiny then  :}
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F1 madness

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Re: New build-Club 500 class
« Reply #70 on: December 14, 2010, 06:20:13 PM »

All final sanded and filler work,just finished giving the hull its 1st coat of sealer,and already got the hatch glassclothed aswell.


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martno1fan

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Re: New build-Club 500 class
« Reply #71 on: December 14, 2010, 10:17:30 PM »

Wont be long now mate  :-))
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F1 madness

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Re: New build-Club 500 class
« Reply #72 on: December 15, 2010, 02:40:52 PM »

Nope gonna try and get it in primer shortly fingers crossed ;)
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martno1fan

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Re: New build-Club 500 class
« Reply #73 on: December 15, 2010, 05:07:21 PM »

Just seal it and run it you can paint it later  :D
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F1 madness

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Re: New build-Club 500 class
« Reply #74 on: December 15, 2010, 05:32:56 PM »

^^^^^^^^^ Too late ^^^^^^^
Getting ever closer,its now in primer
just letting it harden up then wet sand it,do any minor repairs that might need doing then ready for the shiny coat:D:D:popcorn::popcorn:



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