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Author Topic: Aquarama Build  (Read 121629 times)

ukmike

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #25 on: August 17, 2011, 03:16:26 PM »

A few more photos of the build so far.

Am slowing down now as I have reached the more complicated stages.
Here is the start of the varnishing of the FWD Cabin, 2 thinned coats of Rustins Yacht varnish thinned 25% with Turpentine, not Turps Sub.

Also I have the Faulx Leather material, less than 1mm thick, very soft and flexible. Eminently glueable.
I have loads to spare if any one wants any, just send me the postage costs.
It is almost white, as near enough as makes no difference.

Mike.
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ukmike

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #26 on: August 17, 2011, 06:55:24 PM »

Couldn't find any proprietary scale shape rudders so decided to make my own.

It's the best that I can do given my skill and available machinery but almost scale, (ish ).
The photos are before soldering and after soldering with a little polishing of course.

Mike
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MikeA

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #27 on: August 18, 2011, 12:11:17 AM »

there great. this boat will be awesome when its finished!! :-))
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ukmike

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #28 on: August 20, 2011, 03:33:31 PM »

Hello.
A little more done today, covered the cockpit panels and seat pedestals, the faulx leather is absolutely perfect for the job.
Glues easily and can be stretched around corners.
The pics include the Amati supplied seats, not my work thankfully.

On a different note, I am thinking of using the Hitec Opto 6 2.4GhZ radio.
It has a couple of free mixers and servo throw / expo with end point adjust.
Has anyone used this radio and what do you think of it?

Mike.
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ukmike

  • Guest
Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #29 on: August 21, 2011, 03:12:34 PM »

A little more done today.
Fwd cabin floor and grating started, the grating was teak so no varnish needed and the floor in mahogany has had the first sealing coat of varnish.
The cabin seats are covered with the faulx leather with a 1/4in. thick foam padding.

Mike.
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ukmike

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #30 on: August 21, 2011, 08:10:36 PM »

Glued in the motor mounts today, had to adjust to accept the larger diameter water jackets.
They sit quite well and should leave enough room for the Robbe rubber couplings, although I haven't received these yet.
Until then I can't order the prop shafts as I have no idea of the length of the couplings.
Will get the shafts from Marks Model Bits, www.marksmodelbits.com.
A few more photos.

Mike.
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pompebled

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #31 on: August 21, 2011, 10:08:39 PM »

Hi Mike,

I wonder how you'll be able to align the shafts with the motors if the motormount and the cutouts for the shafts are already in place?

Also, make sure the outlet on the cooling jackets is on the highest point, so the jackets will fill up completely, avoiding the infamous 'half motor cooling'...

Regards, Jan.
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ukmike

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #32 on: August 22, 2011, 06:10:01 PM »

Hello Pompebled.

The supplied motor mounting system is set to the correct angle so that the cutouts in the frames can be used, some adjustment is built in.

Take your point about the water jacket nipples having to be at the highest point. In the photo they are not yet fixed, just for a trial fit in the rear cradles.

Mike.
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MikeA

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #33 on: August 22, 2011, 06:33:17 PM »

when you finish youl have to give us some footage of it going !!
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ukmike

  • Guest
Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #34 on: August 22, 2011, 07:33:00 PM »

Hi MadMike.

Will do that but I don't think it will be this year. Have nearly done most of the easy bits, difficult things ahead.
I'm determined to complete the running gear and the electrics before starting the planking, much easier to see what you are doing like that.
One thing I'm pretty sure about is that the boat is not going to be short of power.

Mike
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ukmike

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #35 on: August 25, 2011, 08:14:42 PM »

Help needed !

I need to decide on the prop size.  Am thinking of the Rabosch 45mm 162 type prop.

The motors are going to be turning about 8500rpm with fully submerged props. What do you think?
Any help would be very welcome.

Also, the Robbe rubber couplings that I have received are very good but any mis-alignmenmt, results in the rubber part wanting to slide down from the housing.
Should I Silicone the parts together ? Although, I am aiming for no alignment problems just needing anti vibration dampening.
The Robbe part no. is, R1446, if this helps. 

Mike.
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fatcat123

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #36 on: August 25, 2011, 08:17:03 PM »

Sounds about right looking at a chart i have..
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pompebled

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #37 on: August 28, 2011, 09:50:31 PM »

Also, the Robbe rubber couplings that I have received are very good but any mis-alignmenmt, results in the rubber part wanting to slide down from the housing.
Should I Silicone the parts together ? Although, I am aiming for no alignment problems just needing anti vibration dampening.
The Robbe part no. is, R1446, if this helps.  Mike.
Hi Mike,

Siliconing the parts together sort of defeats the point of having a coupler with a rubber middle section, I'd say...
Use a solid piece of pipe with the correct holes and the size of the 1446 and use that to align the motors to their shafts, once that's done, replace the solid part with your 1446 coupler.

I'd get a few plastic props for testing purposes, smaller than what you're going to run. Only testruns will determen how big you can go without overheating issues.

Regards, Jan.
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ukmike

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #38 on: August 29, 2011, 12:05:26 PM »

Pompebled.
I take your point, especially re experementing with cheaper plastic props, but, is there a direct comparison, plastic v brass ?
No one seems to state the pitch, only the diameter !

My thoughts on whether to silicone the rubbers to the metal adapters on the Robbe couplings was not because of any misalignment but purely due to the fact that the joint is quite sloppy,
not at all secure. I intended, (intend ), to use an industrial compound to, "Vulcanise", the parts together forming one completely flexible unit. This will satisfy my requirements for anti vibration and torque absorption.
The compound which I have used before to construct anti vibration engine mounts on 100cc model aircraft engines with great success is Sikaflex 292.

I am approaching the dreaded planking stage of the build, have posted a couple of photos of the stern or transom of the boat which seems to show a problem with the Amati kit.
The horizontal frame across the transom is definitely cut wrongly. Even after carving and sanding the dimensions don't add up.

Have a look at Sharkeys Aquarama build thread on RC Groups, pages 6 and 7 to see what I mean, poor chap really struggled. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1454417&page=6

Not an insoluble problem but at 350 quid for the kit it should have been sorted.


 

 
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ukmike

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #39 on: September 04, 2011, 09:48:21 AM »

Managed to spend a little more time on the model this week.  Fitted the water jackets to the motors and pressure tested them, all seems o.k.
Batteries arrived but, alas, they are to big to fit in. Thought I measured the space available correctly but obviously not, pratt !!

Started the dreaded 1st layer of planking, thank goodness for the Amati pin pusher and very mini nails.
Never done this before I but am using the full size technique of shaping each plank to fit before fixing.

I have come to the conclusion that the accuracy of the first layer of softwood planks determines the quality of the final Mahogany finish

Anyway, 2 couple of photos of the work so far.

Mike.
 
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ukmike

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #40 on: September 04, 2011, 09:51:09 AM »

A few more photos.

Mike
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ukmike

  • Guest
Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #41 on: September 11, 2011, 08:13:19 PM »

A few more planks added , I think that shaping the planks before fitting is the best way to go as I don't have to fill in the gaps with offcuts.

The Graupner inlet / outlet fittings are going to sit nicely inside the rudders and are a very neat solution for water pickup and discharge.

Using Raboesch shafts and props, super quality but given up on the Robbe rubber couplings as a friend says that they have a tendency to tear up and slip.
although I'm sure people have used them with great success.

Have put the planking on hold for a while whilst I make some P brackets from brass plate and bar, will post some pics when the are roughed out.

Does anyone have the answer to how to work out the shape of the exit holes for the prop shafts ? The shaft tube is 6mm diameter and the shaft angle is 11 degrees.
Thought about cutting an 11 degree angle on the end of a bit of 6mm tube, might work.

A couple of pics of the work so far, very slow project !!

Mike. 
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Gravman

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #42 on: September 15, 2011, 06:45:06 PM »

Very nice work so far.  She will be a fine model when finished.  As I recall there was another kit of the same boat with a resin hull and you planked over that.  Has anyone done that kit before?
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ukmike

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #43 on: September 18, 2011, 04:47:44 PM »

Hi. All.
Another weekend and a little more done to the model. Before any more timber work I decided to roughly fit the running gear whilst there was still access.

Completed the fabrication of the P brackets, remembering to make a handed pair, the P itself I silver soldered to the upright but had to soft solder the flange plates because they had to be done in situ, would have set light to the planking had I used silver solder.

Only the first set of Limewood planks are fitted so far but have allowed enough clearance for the props when finally finished. 40 mm props shown but may well try a pair of 35mm also.

Mike.



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ukmike

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #44 on: September 18, 2011, 04:50:32 PM »

A couple more photos.
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MikeA

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #45 on: September 18, 2011, 04:57:15 PM »

very nice. the rudders looks a bit small though against the props but what do i know. its going to be interesting to see how this boat goes. I have found in my experience that open cockpit fast boats are prone to taking on water. Not from the bottom though from over the sides. youl see what i mean when you take her out for the maiden voyage
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ukmike

  • Guest
Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #46 on: September 18, 2011, 05:15:32 PM »

Mike.
I agree about the rudders, have made them scale size but may look more in keeping with 35mm props.
In the plans the rudders are somewhat small compared to the prop size. The blades that I made are only soft soldered to the shafts so would be an easy job to remove and replace.
May well do that at a later stage.
Thanks for the comment tho,' as I said at the beginning of this thread, this is my first attempt at a boat build so every comment is much appreciated.

Mike.
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MikeA

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #47 on: September 18, 2011, 05:28:52 PM »

is this a static display/converted for rc model?

as far as the rudders are concerned i think they will work fine, but will look odd.  i think you will need an autobailer in the end aswell
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ukmike

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #48 on: September 18, 2011, 05:42:40 PM »

It's the static display one which I'm trying to add R/C remote control.

Please offer any advice where you see a need for it as it is costing quite a lot of money so fa,r ( mainly on mistakes and unnecessary items ).

Didn't realise that boats are equally as expensive as R/C aircraft.

The grand kids better enjoy this model !!.

Mike
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Chris_b_uk

  • Guest
Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #49 on: September 18, 2011, 06:00:43 PM »

Hi Mike
Can i ask where you got your prop supports from?
Is it best to have some or can you do without?
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