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Author Topic: Huntsman Build  (Read 20492 times)

Steve

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #50 on: January 20, 2013, 09:02:20 PM »

I see theres for and against all of these methods, going out the side seemed the best way at the time because it had a short route out...I will have to ponder this one...thanks again guys :-))


Steve.
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tmbc

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #51 on: January 20, 2013, 09:32:36 PM »

hi guys

steve hat off to you this build is really good ! im not into scale that much but this project has made me think ! hmmmm look forward to seeing it finished

mark
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Steve

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #52 on: January 20, 2013, 10:18:24 PM »

Thank you mark, I believe if its worth doing its worth doing well, to me the Huntsman is sort of iconic, I would love to own the real thing, maybe my lottery will win one some day who knows.
The kit in itself I would say isn't the simplest of kits, theres much to think about and alot of adjustments here and there, the fibre glass hull isn't perfect by along away, mine had quite a bit of distortion but all went okay in the end.

I have included a link to my previous build that you might all want to see.
Hope you enjoy. :-)


https://picasaweb.google.com/107161168091837550562/LadyMarion02?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCNyE7_6PxPLngwE&feat=directlink
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pompebled

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #53 on: January 21, 2013, 07:16:13 PM »

Hi Steve,

I took a quick look at the pics, your Lady Marion / robbe Atlantis looks awsome!
Do you sail her often? (You should!)

Regards, Jan.
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Steve

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #54 on: January 21, 2013, 07:53:10 PM »

Hello again,
thanks Lady Marion was only finished early last year, I have sailed her a few times at our club regattas but at the moment she needs some maintenance, some of her rigging lines have slipped off the sail winch so when the weathers a bit warmer I will sort her out along side a few other bits and bobs.



Thank you for your time looking.


Steve
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Steve

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #55 on: January 25, 2013, 04:53:09 PM »

I have been looking at the power for the motors and the best way of keep everything neat and tidy.
I decided to build a type of raft that has two boxes mounted on it.
One box will hold the Mixer unit and the motor fuses and the other will isolate the batteries hold an inline 40amp fuse and where the batteries will be connected together in series making 24v.
The blank hole in the top of the box is where I plan on fitting a volt meter to show the state of the batteries.
I could have used telemetry with my spektrum kit but a bit much just to measure voltage.
The difference between spending 2 pounds as oppose to thirty-ish.
The one other thing I may have to add is a water cooling circuit to the mixer, I have weighed it all up and there doesn't seem to be an issue there fitting one.


Steve.
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essex2visuvesi

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #56 on: January 25, 2013, 05:15:55 PM »

Have to say that's a very neat setup you have there


One question... you have allowed for the drop in the superstructure? its like a tray bit at the back of the cabin and drops in between the frames
the reason I ask is I didn't and had to completely remove everything and rethink my layout
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Steve

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #57 on: January 25, 2013, 05:23:36 PM »

Ah Ah....yes I thought about that, the deep structure actually sits in the next section back.
So no worries there. The motors are in the forward section, which meant fitting 14" prop shafts.
The batteries will sit along the keel line, I have glued a length of wood in place ready to take a stud that holds a clamp plate, once I have floated her I will be able to determine the best place for the batteries.
The wood will also enable me to "P" clip the battery cables in place these then enter the raft from underneath.


Steve.
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pompebled

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #58 on: January 26, 2013, 11:56:11 AM »

Hi Steve,

As Action only has sketchy pictures of their products, I can't really see what's in the box on your pictures, what type of ESC(s) are you going to use?

As a rule of thumb, modern designs tend to be very efficient, but if there's a cooling fin attached to it, usually there's some heat to dissipate.
I'm not comfortable with heat buildup inside a small plastic box, either make sure the electronics will never see water under normal running conditions and leave the box open, or add watercooling to the cooling fins by soldering a piece of brass tubing onto it and run the cooling loop through the ESC first, than to the motor.

Don't underestimate how much the interior will heat up, when running the boat in summer in the sun, despite the fact the boat runs in water.

Regards, Jan.
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Steve

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #59 on: January 26, 2013, 03:44:57 PM »

Hi Jan
Yes I agree regarding the cooling, Im in the process of ordering parts for doing a cooling circuit, in the box is an Action P94 mixer and two P95 indicator fuse boards.


Steve
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Steve

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #60 on: January 31, 2013, 07:55:00 PM »

I have now fitted everything for the trim tab servo and rudder servos. I just need to buy one more servo.
I set everything up using the same one which was a pain but it did the job,


Next job was fitting the water scoops behind the probe, don't know if anyone has noticed but these plastic water scoops don't have the same size hole all the way through making them some what restricted, a quick clear out with a drill did the job.


I just need to make some supports for the solid aluminium tube now that carries the water from the scoops.
Then I have a single flush fitting scoop to fit that supplies water to the mixer.


Thats enough to be getting on with.
Bye for now
Steve.
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Steve

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #61 on: February 09, 2013, 09:01:10 AM »

Hello again to you all,
This week I have been concentratiing on getting all the additional fitting inside the hull, pieces for fixing clips to hold cooling tubes, wires etc,
Then came the long job of finally applying epoxy adhesive to everything as a final fix.
While I have been at it I made a start on scratch building the bathing platform at the stern, something I Havn't seen many modellers attempt
So maybe this may spur a few people into doing this in the future,
Its a good way of fixing the ladder at the rear, I shall make this from 3mm stainless tubing as I don't care for the one supplied in the kit, seems to be an excuse for one. anyway heres a few pics of my progress to date.
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Steve

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #62 on: February 09, 2013, 10:24:55 AM »

Battery Query,
A quick question to you all, I need help working out the charging time for a battery,
The outputs on my charger are as follows.


Output 3: 1000 mA, 4 - 8 NC/NiMH with Delta-Peak automatic cut-off.
Output 4: 250 mA, 4 - 8 NC/NiMH
Output 5: 250 mA, 4 - 8 NC/NiMH
Output 6: 120 mA, 4 - 8 NC/NiMH


I have a 12v 4600mah battery so which output do I need to use and for how long?


Thank you for any help.
Steve.
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essex2visuvesi

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #63 on: February 09, 2013, 10:37:58 AM »

Battery Query,
A quick question to you all, I need help working out the charging time for a battery,
The outputs on my charger are as follows.


Output 3: 1000 mA, 4 - 8 NC/NiMH with Delta-Peak automatic cut-off.
Output 4: 250 mA, 4 - 8 NC/NiMH
Output 5: 250 mA, 4 - 8 NC/NiMH
Output 6: 120 mA, 4 - 8 NC/NiMH


I have a 12v 4600mah battery so which output do I need to use and for how long?


Thank you for any help.
Steve.


I'm sorry to say if its a nicd/nimh pack then none of them.... your battery pack has 10 cells and the charger has a max of 8 (9.6v)
If its a Lead acid battery (like a mini car battery) then again the answer is no as a lead acid charger is required (tho you could use a domestic car battery charger)


Sorry to be the bearer of bad news
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Steve

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #64 on: February 09, 2013, 10:40:58 AM »

Thanks for that I see now, ah well time to put this one to auction and invest in one thats adequate, any recommendations?
And how do you work out the charge time?


Cheers
Steve.
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essex2visuvesi

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #65 on: February 09, 2013, 11:08:25 AM »

The Imax B6 is a very capable charger, and will handle most of your charging needs, even lipos should you go down that route.

Charging wise, you battery at 4600mah would take roughly 4.6Hrs at a charging rate of 1amp 2.3 hrs at 2A

The B6 can charge at up to 5A so you could charge at 4.6A and get it done in an hour.

The B6 can also cycle discharge your battery packs and lots of other thingsand can be picked up on ebay for about 15-20 quid.  It's basically all the chargers you need in on handy package



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red181

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #66 on: February 09, 2013, 09:02:02 PM »

the B6 is a very versatile and cost effective charger, I have one,however you may have to get a mains power source as mine didnt have one, and then you are relying on another battery to run it. get a version with a built in main adapter, this charger will accomodate nimhs, nicad, pb, and lipo, with a balance port for lipo, there are a number of cheap chinese clones out there so ensure its genuine with a warranty 
 
With my Hunts, I went for the back seat and ladder version, (there are so many! some have the transom opening!) I thought about the platform as a form of stabiliser, and will probably do it when the boat gets a refurb later this year as its single screw and does have torque roll after 23mph, so I am very interested to see how your trim tabs perform! :-))
 
 
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Steve

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #67 on: February 10, 2013, 12:09:32 PM »

She looks great mate, I have seen her before and admired her. you did a cracking job.
I have some sort of power running through now, did a bit of wiring yesterday, still have to sort out the control cable that runs from the receiver to the mixer, this week I will sort out the cooling for the mixer cooling fins.
Regarding the trim tabs I have had them working but both going up and down together, Im not sure if it would be an advantage for them to work separately. I need to decide on this before the deck is fixed into position.



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essex2visuvesi

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #68 on: February 10, 2013, 01:01:16 PM »

That is a mighty neat build, makes me want to tear all mine out and start again!


What is the digital display showing?
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Steve

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #69 on: February 10, 2013, 01:18:39 PM »

Oh its showing the voltage to the mixer, hence 23.6 volts, inside the black box is where the two batteries are connected together in series.
then from the switch it goes through a 40amp fuse its there where the voltage is taken, from that point the power splits into two and feeds the mixer.
From the bottom of the box with the mixer in  is a 9 core cable taking the power and signals from the receiver and the return to the rudder servo from the mixer. In theory it should all work, but we shall see. %)
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pompebled

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #70 on: February 10, 2013, 03:53:11 PM »

Hi Steve,

Regarding a 'new' charger; if you're going to run the boat on 20 cells wired in series, it is good practice to charge the cells in the same configuration as you use them, aka in series.
This avoids nasty rapid equalisation rushes between the packs when you connect them. Make no mistake, even with NiMH packs you can arch-weld...

This requires another charger as the Imax B6, as this charger only handles up to 15 cells NiMH.

If you're not planning on changing to Lipo's (which you no doubt will after the first runs on NiMH...), I'd search eBay for a charger like the Graupner Ultra Duo Plus 30, which can handle up to 30 NiMH cells with a charge current up to 7A.
This and similar chargers are being sold relative cheap, as they can't charge Lipo's as well as the new generation chargers.
There are a few on the German eBay: at the moment
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Ladegerat-Graupner-Ultra-Duo-Plus-30-/170984945545?pt=RC_Modellbau&hash=item27cf7f3789
You'll need a mains supply of 12V 15A minimum.

As I've mentioned before, please change the Tamiya connectors for something able to handle the current, like 4 mm gold plated connectors.
While the Tamiya do smell nice when the plastic melts when the connectors overheat, the possible shorting and burning following immediately is less pleaseant...

The picture doesn't show how high the swimming platform is above the bottom; if it sits too deep, it'll act as a (huge) trimtab, rendering your fancy controlable ones inert.

With two motors you'll not experience torque roll, so operating them simultaneously isn't an issue.

Testing will show the waterinlets are set rather (too) deep and will add considerable drag, specially if you pick up debris.
The intake may also be a little overdone.

Regards, Jan.
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Steve

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #71 on: February 10, 2013, 04:24:35 PM »

Hiya, thank you for the info, yes I was unsure of how deep the water inlets should be, theres still time for adjustment.
The Tamiya plugs are just temporary until I find the best position for the batteries, I have EC5's ready for fitting.
The platform sits flush with the bottom in fact it will just look like a continuation of the hull when finished.
The batteries are connected in series further along the line, I was just thinking of disconnecting each battery and charging it.
So its okay to charge them connected in series??


Thanks once again for your comments and help.
Steve. :-))
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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #72 on: February 10, 2013, 04:40:52 PM »

Stave never had a problem in all the years I have used stick packs in charging them individually,I allways DO.I NEVER charge mine in series or even Parallel.
 
One question I must ask is what Amperage is your switch.
 
 
Dave
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Steve

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #73 on: February 10, 2013, 04:43:36 PM »

Hiya Dave, I will bear that in mind thanks , I believe the switch is 40 or 50 amp rating.
should be okay eh?


Steve.




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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #74 on: February 10, 2013, 05:09:32 PM »

Hi Steve & Dave,

I didn't say it was mandatory to charge your packs as they are being used, just that it's good practice...

When charged seperately, there will come a time when the charge levels of both packs start to drift apart, and when the difference gets big enough the equalisation rush will cause fireworks when connecting them.

When I was racing the big electric powered fast electrics, I always charged my packs as they were used and never had a failure.

Charging them apart is a potential risk.

Regards, Jan.
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