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Author Topic: Paint and boat stand  (Read 9361 times)

pipster

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Paint and boat stand
« on: October 24, 2014, 11:25:17 PM »

Hi,


I've had a problem with the paint on the hull of my boat reacting with the stand I was using.  i used an old mouse mat to cover the contact points on the stand as recommended by Model Slipway.  I tried it both ways up (the mousemat not the stand!) and the same problem; stand sticks to hull, stand and leave marks which won't polish out.  I've resprayed but would like to avoid the same thing happening.  I used Halfords Gloss Appliance White on the hull and left it for 2 weeks before putting on the stand.


So didn't I leave enough drying time for the paint?
Did I used the wrong kind of mousemat?
Was I just unlucky?
Can anyone else suggest something I can use as padding on the stand?


Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Phil
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Klunk

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Re: Paint and boat stand
« Reply #1 on: October 25, 2014, 07:14:23 AM »

I use foam pipe insulation or door gasket. i have even used stick on felt that you get for furniture on wooden floors!
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roycv

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Re: Paint and boat stand
« Reply #2 on: October 25, 2014, 10:07:58 AM »

Hi I usually use green felt or pads made of felt.  It is a case of spreading the load of the boat on the stand. 

The boat probably spends more time on its' stand than anything else.  If I am not going to use a boat for a while I put supermarket bags around it and between the stand and the boat.  Never had a problem since doing this.  Not pretty but my boats are not allowed out in the house so are tucked away in spare bedroom.
good luck,
Roy
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pipster

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Re: Paint and boat stand
« Reply #3 on: October 25, 2014, 04:07:14 PM »

Thanks guys; looks like felt could be the way forward.
Phil
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chuffy

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Re: Paint and boat stand
« Reply #4 on: October 26, 2014, 07:54:40 AM »

I'm in the process of replacing all my boat stands and have also decided to go down the felt route. The rubber type does seem to stick to the hulls a little and if you use 4mm compressed baize any slight difference between the hull shape and the profile on the stand is taken up and also looks quite neat. The Compressed baize is available on Ebay quite cheaply.


Sticking it to the stand is not a real problem either, I seal the edge of the stand with a coat of white glue, let it dry and put a generous layer of white glue on top of that and then apply the baize, making sure not to stretch it. I have found that a little weight on top of the baize ensures that it stays down while the glue sets, only a few minutes anyway. Wipe any surplus glue off the stand with a damp cloth.


Paul
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jarvo

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Re: Paint and boat stand
« Reply #5 on: October 26, 2014, 12:05:09 PM »

Hi Pipster


The old type mouse mat was some sort of foam compound that was slightly tacky so the mouse wheel would go round, (you had to clean the wheel ) that is why it sticks to your hulls, I have been using foam pipe lagging for may years, it does compress with the weight of the hull, taking up the fine lines of the hull.


People from my club use draft excluder, old snooker table felt, conveyer belt rubber strip, its to protect the hull and look reasonable when the boat is sailing.


I do agree that the boat spends more time on its stand than sailing.


Mark
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sparkey

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Re: Paint and boat stand
« Reply #6 on: October 26, 2014, 12:31:22 PM »

 :-)) I use draft excluder from poundland a quid for two big rolls lasts for ever,used to use pipe covering but found it can scratch the hull,Ray. :-)) :-)) :-))
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tigertiger

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Re: Paint and boat stand
« Reply #7 on: October 27, 2014, 07:21:58 AM »

The stuff used for pipe lagging is really inert and feels a bit slippery it is so smooth. Some pool noodles are made out of the same stuff, and so are some camping and yoga mats. Strips cut from a camping mat is the stuff I use, and I get no reaction with paint even if the boat is left on the stand for months. This plastic is also used for some sorts of packing, instead of expanded polystyrene.
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Marc St Hilaire 60

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Re: Paint and boat stand
« Reply #8 on: January 12, 2015, 02:47:16 PM »

I use those thin foam washing up sponge cloths. They are about 6mm thick. I cut a strip the width of the stand, usually about 15mm and stick it down with white waterproof PVA. Never had any problems.
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petermun

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Re: Paint and boat stand
« Reply #9 on: January 12, 2015, 03:15:10 PM »

I use strips of sticky-backed Velcro, ( the soft felt part), works well.   Pete
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pipster

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Re: Paint and boat stand
« Reply #10 on: August 08, 2015, 08:59:26 AM »

Thanks again to everyone who replied.


It's happened again!  I resprayed the hull with halfords diamond white in case the gloss appliance white was too soft.  I've left the hull for 3 months upside down to harden.  Yesterday I put the stand, now with felt contact points, on the still upside down hull to check the fit around the keel.


I left it over night and it's marked the hull!  So it was only the weight of the stand on the hull that's done it.  I really don't know what to try next.  Does anyone have any ideas?  Do I need to strip the hull right back and start again?  If so can anyone recommend a paint stripper that will be ok with GRP and 'styrene?


Thanks
Phil
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Tug-Kenny

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Re: Paint and boat stand
« Reply #11 on: August 08, 2015, 10:15:26 AM »

 
Can you show a picture of the boat sitting on the stand please.   It does sound like the sides are gripping the hulls sides. The paint also sounds a little soft.

I always arrange the stand to be wider than the hull so that no pressure is applied.  It merely rest on the keel.

Cheers
ken
 
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pipster

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Re: Paint and boat stand
« Reply #12 on: August 08, 2015, 11:11:25 AM »

Hi Ken,


Here's a pic of the stand.  As you thought, the sides grip the hull.  But I'd expect Halfords paint to be properly hard after 3 months and the pressure would have been very light with everything upside down.




Phil
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Tug-Kenny

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Re: Paint and boat stand
« Reply #13 on: August 09, 2015, 10:20:53 AM »


As I suspected..........  The total weight of the craft is in direct contact with the hull at all points.

I would recommend curving the stand away from the keel and making it wider than the hull with small vertical pieces to go up the hull sides to prevent it toppling over.  Cover the stand surface with felt will prevent scratching your paintwork.

Hope this helps.

ken



 
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mrlownotes

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Re: Paint and boat stand
« Reply #14 on: August 09, 2015, 11:01:37 AM »

Do you have a close up picture that shows the extent of the marking ?
I am very surprised that the upside down stand had enough weight to force the felt to mark.
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inertia

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Re: Paint and boat stand
« Reply #15 on: August 09, 2015, 11:41:06 AM »

I had a similar experience with Halfords paint and the soft foam draft-excluder strip which I used on the stand. There seems to have been a reaction between the paint and the foam, even in areas (like the sides of the model) where no weight was being exerted i.e. the only pressure was from the slight compression of the foam. This reaction was severe enough to eat through several layers of gloss, primer and primer-filler down to the glass cloth which I had used to cover the hull. The last coat of paint had been dry for about a month before I padded the stand, but the damage occurred after I'd sailed the model and put it back in the store-room for a couple of months. I had little option but to sand off all of the paint and start again from the GRP layer.
I still use Halfords paints but I'm experimenting with different materials for the padding on the stands. At present the favourite is hard felt pads sold to prevent wooden furniture scuffing floor surfaces. The next trial will be the Spontex cleaning pads advocated by Marc St H. Like Ken says, I think just a few points of contact between the hull and the padding is preferable to a continuous strip - if only because it means you have less area to repair if it all goes wrong!
DM
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petermun

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Re: Paint and boat stand
« Reply #16 on: August 09, 2015, 03:05:49 PM »

I know I have previously advocated the use of the foam part of sticky-backed Velcro, what I didn`t say was that I also use  Halfords acrylic paint and none of my boats have had any problems, (up to now, touch wood ).  Pete
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Mark T

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Re: Paint and boat stand
« Reply #17 on: August 09, 2015, 03:58:04 PM »

I too have this problem on my Alpine - I have used thick baize and also the hard felt that Inertia has mentioned.  All of my efforts have left marring on the painted hull which at first drove me mad.


However I'm not too bothered about it now because when the boat is in the stand the marks cannot be seen, and when it does (if ever at the rate I'm building  {-) ) hit the water the marks will be below the waterline.  I have just put it down to the softness of the paint.  My next hull will be sprayed in 2 pack to stop this happening ever again.
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pipster

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Re: Paint and boat stand
« Reply #18 on: August 09, 2015, 05:17:50 PM »

Thanks all,


I think a stand redesign and complete paint strip down is the only option then.  Can anyone recommend a paint striper that will be ok with grp and styrene?


Cheers
Phil
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Netleyned

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Re: Paint and boat stand
« Reply #19 on: August 09, 2015, 06:17:43 PM »

Fairy Power Spray.

Ned
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inertia

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Re: Paint and boat stand
« Reply #20 on: August 09, 2015, 06:19:40 PM »

Phil
Not that I've heard of. Silicon carbide paper and elbow grease is safest. Chemicals may soften the GRP and/or styrene.
Dave M
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Capt Podge

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Re: Paint and boat stand
« Reply #21 on: August 09, 2015, 06:30:58 PM »

Hi Pipster,
 
When you paint your hulls, do you give them a couple of coats of varnish ? - I couldn't see any reference to it in the postings to date.
 
I've used Halfords "rattle cans" for a few models, final coats of varnish, boats put on stand after 48 hours drying time. No marks discovered to date :-))
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 
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pipster

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Re: Paint and boat stand
« Reply #22 on: August 09, 2015, 10:35:35 PM »

Think I'll try Fairy Power spray on some scrap GRP just to be safe.  Otherwise given how many coats I've to get through, it's a lot of elbow grease!


Ray, I've not used varnish as I've never got decent results with Halfords lacquer despite several attempts.  I now try to get a decent finish from the colour coat.    Do you use Halfords lacquer or a completely different varnish?


Phil
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Capt Podge

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Re: Paint and boat stand
« Reply #23 on: August 09, 2015, 10:45:38 PM »

I tried the Halford's lacquer once, on a piece of freshly painted (and dried) scrap plastic. The result was poor, in that the surface, for want of a better description, felt like sandpaper.
 
So then I went back to my old favourite - Rustoleum clear matt varnish, still using the spray cans - result excellent. O0 :-))
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 
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Stavros

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Re: Paint and boat stand
« Reply #24 on: August 09, 2015, 11:22:06 PM »

Phil I find this very odd to say the least ...I'n all the years I have been using Halfords paint I have NEVER had this problem so there is Definatly a cause to this.

So Lets start with the obvious Question..................

When the hull was primered how MANY coats of primer did you apply..........how long between coats of primer


Now don't go stripping the hull down as I personally don't think it will need it...you should be able to rub the marks down starting with Wet/Dry used WET starting with 240 to get a good feather and then go to 600 then reprime the areas that need it....if the paint is being picked up on the rubbing down paper then the problem is definatly the amount of paint that has been applied ...in other words....far to many coats in one go...been there had the tee shirt


Dave
Dave
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