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Author Topic: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build  (Read 128829 times)

Mark T

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Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #25 on: December 14, 2014, 11:51:29 am »

Time for the first coat of primer to see how the hull was looking.  I have posted these pictures before but not part of a build log.  Before painting, the hull was given a good wipe over with panel wipe and a tack cloth.  The results are below









This first coat revealed the flaws in the hull - I hadn't quite got the bow shape right and the stern needed some more work too.
At this time I then permanently fitted the kort nozzles and swapped the supplied prop shafts with raboaesh ones as I liked the idea of them being maintenance free.  The korts are secured with two small brass screws and epoxy resin.













I also fitted the first piece of hardware  ;)  The rudder servo!  This was a little bit easier said than done due to the modifications that I had made to the rear deck.  I had to position the servo lower in the hull so that it did not interfere with the deck.  The tiller arms are modified Raboaesh items that I had to reduce in width and also relocate the locking grub screw.  To be honest none of this was particularly difficult it just needed a bit of thought.



Thanks for looking I'll post some more up next weekend - Mark

Mark T

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Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #26 on: December 20, 2014, 08:56:02 pm »

Back again so a little update.

I started work on the rear deck which was nice as it was the first time that I managed to get into the detail of the boat.  The rear deck has a covering of a few hundred little planks  :o   I thought that the best way to tackle this would be to set up a small chop station and cut them all out first  %%



The kit comes with full scale plans so it was a case of marking the covering out onto the deck and then gluing them on.  I made the job slightly harder as I had glued stainless washers onto the deck due to the screws which secured it down.  These will now require counter sinking as my new brass countersunk screws were delivered in the post yesterday  :-)





Which continued until the job was complete



The rear deck was then primed - filled and finished - I used Ford Dove Grey from Halfords as the final colour





The final deck was first given a coat of epoxy followed by a coat of clear lacquer



At the same time I also decided to put the rubbing strips on the hull.  These are not part of the kit but they are a very distinctive part of the real ship.  I must be honest, I really struggled here.  The full scale plans are on a flat diagram that I could not translate into the 3D model.  In the end I just did the best that I could.  I marked the strips out and epoxied wood into place.








Unfortunately After I had glued the wood strips on I realised that they were far to thick and looked slightly comical  <:(  On the real ship they are quite subtle and they certainly weren't that.  So there was only one option - Yep sand them down until they were of a thickness that I was happy with!  I made so many mistakes doing this but I learn't a lot from the process and I am a lot better at using filler now too  {-)   I know that it would have been far easier to use styrene; but I wanted to improve my skills with wood - Having said that I would encourage any builder to use styrene and save themselves many many hours of sanding and countless hours of bad language too  {-)



And when I was happy I sealed the wood with a few good coats of clear gloss



Sorry that the pictures are around the wrong way  :embarrassed:

david48

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Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #27 on: December 21, 2014, 09:32:59 am »

Hi Mark
As you say getting the strip detail is a bit of a challenge ,it all worked out in the end . The order of painting will also need some thought , I have not got that far yet I did not want to damage the paint while fitting the electrics ,this has been on hold due to funding ,all being well after a few days beating on the local shoots I should be back on track .
Happy Christmas and prosperous new year
David
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Mark T

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Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #28 on: December 21, 2014, 09:56:46 am »

Hi Mark
As you say getting the strip detail is a bit of a challenge ,it all worked out in the end . The order of painting will also need some thought , I have not got that far yet I did not want to damage the paint while fitting the electrics ,this has been on hold due to funding ,all being well after a few days beating on the local shoots I should be back on track .
Happy Christmas and prosperous new year
David


Hi David you are so right about the painting.  I have sprayed the hull and it really did take some thinking about due to the amount of detail and recesses that you have to get into.  I was also surprised by the amount of paint it took as well to get a good finish.  Be careful with the beating just keep your head down  :o
Happy Christmas to you too  :-)

Mark T

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Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #29 on: December 21, 2014, 10:18:57 am »

Next to do was to give the upper deck the same coaming treatment as the lower one.  Once again I used U styrene which is epoxied in place and I also closed two holes at the very front of the opening using ply.  Doing this has meant that I will have to modify the upper deck piece slightly but it should be okay when I get around to it





Then a little more detail was added.  I was trying to put on as many parts as possible that would be painted in the base colours without making the painting impossible





With the bulk of the upper decks nearing the priming stage I needed to think about how I was going to prepare the wood to get the best finish that I could.  I decided on trying eze-kote as I had read some good things about this on this forum.  After a little experimentation I found that I could get it on using my airbrush.  It just needed a little thinning with water and the pressure turned up on the airbrush.  I also used the biggest tip that I had.  So back to masking up and spraying  8)



I'm really glad that I used eze-kote as one of the benefits I found was that because its also a very strong adhesive it seemed to fix all of the parts better together.  It also filled any small gaps between the parts



Once the first coat had dried, I lightly sanded the entire topside and then masked up again for a second coat.  This was then sanded with some 2500 paper which seemed to give a pretty good finish
As a bit of a break I decided to solder up the motors just to give me a break from the hull  {-)



Mark T

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Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #30 on: December 22, 2014, 04:17:53 pm »

Time for a little more of the detail work.  First was to make the hatch handles out of brass wire.  To make these I wrapped the wire around a drill bit and then cut them off with a dremel.  It was just a case then of soldering them together.  The plans suggested that they should also have a small spigot the lifted them off of the face of the hatch.  I must admit this was a step to far for me so I didn't bother with that.





I had to make a few of these and also the parts which the ropes tie around - sorry I do not know what they are called  :embarrassed:





Then finally the anchor chain guides and vents were made and fitted.  I never did quite get the bend right on the vents even though I annealed the metal before hand.  I think I need a bigger vice!  I put small pins into the bottom of the vents to get a better fix onto the deck







You will probably have noticed to that I have placed eyelets into the hawse holes.  I got these from our local Dunelm and all I had to do was to trim the length slightly as they were too long.  Actually this was very tricky - I held them in a pair of locking forceps whilst cutting the eyelet with a dremel.  I had a few shoot off across the room never to be seen again  {-)

Mark T

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Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #31 on: December 22, 2014, 05:50:12 pm »

Two more small jobs to do before the final coat of primer.  The first was to fill the cavities next to the rudder tubes as I expect some water to creep up them and I think trying to get the water out of the cavities would be difficult



Then I fitted a water inlet as I am hoping to make the water cannons working items





Then for the final coat of primer















As per usual I'll post some more when I get a chance.  The next photos will be of the final colour going on the hull - Happy Xmas everyone!

hama

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Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #32 on: December 22, 2014, 11:21:21 pm »

Looking really good!! :-))
Hama
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Mark T

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Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #33 on: December 27, 2014, 09:55:55 am »

Looking really good!! :-))
Hama


Thanks Hama  :-)

Mark T

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Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #34 on: December 27, 2014, 10:10:04 am »

Time to get some paint onto the hull.  I did not have any special paints mixed up for the boat, I simply got the closest colour that I could from Halfords.  First a good final rub down with some grey scotch bright to get rid of as many imperfections as possible followed by a good clean with panel wipe and then masking up.  First up was the decks - I'm not too bad a spraying but I did find this a difficult job due to the amount of nooks and crannies.  I found that the best way to tackle it was to start with the most inaccessible areas first starting with very light coats leaving the big areas till last.  I wanted to make sure that there were no bits left unpainted and therefore vulnerable.

Masking up



Then paint (Ford Dove Grey)







Not forgetting to get the colour right for the deck drains (If thats what they are called).  I wanted the inside to be the deck colour and not the main colour



Then a bit more masking up to paint the rear deck rails which added a nice splash of colour.  (Volkswagen Brilliant Orange)



GAZOU

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Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #35 on: December 27, 2014, 10:12:58 am »

 ok2

Hello

I return on the subject

Your installation is not good, the clearance of rudders will not be parallel because the stalks of commands are not parallel I suggest deus servomotor with a cordon Y

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Mark T

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Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #36 on: December 27, 2014, 10:26:14 am »

Now for the first main colour which is GREEN
and boy is it green {-) %%

Yet again more masking up - I think it took me about half a day to get this right.  There are so many places that are tricky to get too but well worth the effort if you do.  This was also the time that I had to mark out the water line.  All I can say is I tried my best!

Marking out the waterline





Masking up









Then paint (Ford Signal Green)





I was pretty pleased with the results once the masking had been removed











Mark T

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Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #37 on: December 27, 2014, 10:31:15 am »

ok2

Hello

I return on the subject

Your installation is not good, the clearance of rudders will not be parallel because the stalks of commands are not parallel I suggest deus servomotor with a cordon Y




Hi Gazou - Yes I agree with you.  The movement of the rudders will not be exactly equal due to this set up.  Unfortunately I cannot use two servos as their just is not enough room.  This is the recommended set up by the manufacturer of the kit but I did have to turn the servo around due to my modifications on the deck above.

Mark T

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Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #38 on: December 27, 2014, 10:39:05 am »

And just a few pictures with the rear deck on.  This is currently undergoing modifications to the fixings thanks to Brian56  :-))   I'm just waiting for some custom countersunk washers to be delivered sometime in the new year.







Thanks for looking I'll get some more up later in the week - Mark

GAZOU

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Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #39 on: December 27, 2014, 10:55:20 am »

 ;)

I agree with you, it is the note but:

You can put two mini slept servomotors I have a friend who made it
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Mark T

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Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #40 on: December 27, 2014, 10:59:15 am »

;)

I agree with you, it is the note but:

You can put two mini slept servomotors I have a friend who made it


Actually I probably could do this  :-)   I'll give it some thought - Thanks Gazou!

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Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #41 on: December 27, 2014, 11:50:00 am »

All you got to do to get an equal movement on the rudders is to extend one side of the servo horn this will give you the same movement each side Simples really
 
 
Dave
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Mark T

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Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #42 on: December 27, 2014, 12:46:21 pm »

All you got to do to get an equal movement on the rudders is to extend one side of the servo horn this will give you the same movement each side Simples really
 
 
Dave


Hi Dave thanks for the advice but I'm not quite sure what you mean?  Any chance of a quick diagram so that I understand it fully - Mark

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Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #43 on: December 27, 2014, 01:02:28 pm »

Hi Mark
if you use a disc on the servo instead of the arm then turn the rudder arms at an angle you can get the linkages at 90 degrees. this will give fully symmetric movement.

Jim
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Mark T

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Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #44 on: December 27, 2014, 01:05:10 pm »

Hi Mark
if you use a disc on the servo instead of the arm then turn the rudder arms at an angle you can get the linkages at 90 degrees. this will give fully symmetric movement.

Jim


Ok Jim I really like that idea  :-))   Now I can see how this would work and would be so simple to do.  Cheers Jim much appreciated  :}

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Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #45 on: December 27, 2014, 01:15:29 pm »

Probably show my ignorance here but wouldn't the rudders benefit from unequal movement as in a vehicles steering geometry where each adopts a different radius for maximum effect.
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Mark T

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Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #46 on: December 27, 2014, 01:24:06 pm »

Probably show my ignorance here but wouldn't the rudders benefit from unequal movement as in a vehicles steering geometry where each adopts a different radius for maximum effect.


Only a guess but vehicles travel on solid ground and without a differential between the wheels that axle would effectively seize up.  Trains have a similar problem which is cured with tapered wheels to stop them locking onto the tracks around corners.  Ships/boats would not have this issue but this is only my meandering thoughts!

GAZOU

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Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #47 on: December 27, 2014, 02:07:03 pm »

Here is a very good subject on the commands of rudders

Use translate or other translators

You can ask me questions

http://modelismenavalradioc.nouvellestar6.com/t10938-commandes-de-gouvernails



I sometimes take ideas on Mayhem :-))

I find normal to offer ideas of the French forum

We are every designers
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david48

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Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #48 on: December 27, 2014, 02:45:53 pm »

If The ESC that DM advises  and it is set up ,I have that to do yet ,as helm is applied the props slow down on the inside of the turn, aiding steering .
David
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Mark T

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Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #49 on: December 27, 2014, 02:52:00 pm »

If The ESC that DM advises  and it is set up ,I have that to do yet ,as helm is applied the props slow down on the inside of the turn, aiding steering .
David


David do you mean the action mixer?  If so I intend to use this item when I eventually get to that point in the build? - Mark
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