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[raflaunches]

Hello everyone


I've been a bit quiet recently with regards to build threads but I have been busy in-between the Majestic build sections.
A few weeks back I approached Ron if I could buy a kit of the HMS Humber that he had just released, anyone who has seen my build of HMS Gnat would know that I really, really like Royal Navy riverine craft and Humber ticked all the boxes. An added bonus was that it wouldn't be huge like Gnat as she is built to 1/96 scale.


A bit of early history for the un-knowing...


HMS Humber was originally called Javary and built for the Brazilian Navy in 1913 to patrol the Amazon River with two sisters- Solimoes and Madeira- all named after tributaries of the Amazon. They were all built by Vickers at Barrow and designed to be approx 1200 tons carrying two 6in guns in a twin turret forward on a draught of 4ft 6in. To obtain such a shallow draught a very beamy hull was necessary- 261ft 6in (BP) by 49ft and the compact 6in turret was an improved version fitted to the Monmouth class armoured cruisers. A powerful secondary armament was also fitted, two single 4.72in howitzers aft, four Vickers 3pdrs and six machine guns.


However, by February 1914 all three monitors were complete and ready for delivery to Rio but the Brazilians were now that in a position to pay for the vessels as rubber prices had dropped in value in 1913 and Brazil could no longer afford to expand her navy. The three vessels were put up for sale at the same time as the battleship Rio de Janeiro which would be sold to Turkey in December 1913. But the river monitors were not such a saleable proposition as a battleship during the pre-war era so they remained laid up at Barrow. Just before the out break of the Great War Churchill expressed his concern about the possibility of their falling into enemy hands so an order was sent out to all firms building warships for foreign navies will not be permitted to pass in to foreign hands or leave the country (this included the battleship Rio de Janeirio). The Royal Navy agreed a price to take them over and the monitors were purchased for £155,000 each.

[raflaunches]

Part 2- The kit


Well what do you get...





Essentially you get as seen in the picture above:
a fibre glass hull measuring 810mm long by 130mm wide
three laser cut pre-printed 1mm plastic sheets for decks, superstructures, hatches, etc
a 0.25mm laser cut pre-printed plastic sheet for ships doors and ships boats decks
a vacform sheet containing all the ships boats, conning tower roof, 6in turret base barbette
a fibre glass turret
two lengths of plastic tube cut to length for the conning tower and funnel
a build CD
plan
instructions with parts list
a tray of fittings including prop shafts
plastic strip (various thicknesses)
etched brass stanchions and ladders
lengths of dowel for the masts and yard arms

[Martin (Admin)]

I see Deans Marine have got a new publicity dept..... a good one too!   

[raflaunches]

Well I do like his kits, and he is local to me too which is another benefit
Standby for the build pictures, i've reached the fittings stage and I've only been on it for a week!
Nice kit nice build, no problems so far.

[Martin (Admin)]

Here's one I built earlier....!

https://youtu.be/GUOdagrTgfo?t=40s

[Bob K]

I see Deans Marine have got a new publicity dept..... a good one too!   

I have been admiring this ship at Peterborough and Wicksteed, but looking at the very low draft and freeboard wondered how it will sail, and how to access steering gear whilst remaining watertight.
I appreciate such a detailed build log and will be following this thread with great interest.
PS:  I have several Deans ships and Deans hulled ships. Excellent quality.

[spooksgone]

That will make for a very attractive model, looking forward to the pictures

[ballastanksian]

Its a monitor:O) Nuff said I saw the model at Shepton mallet and I was impressed. Oh to have a few quid, maybe in the future after I have built a load of other shippes.

[Martin (Admin)]

Deans Marine factory tour... part 2

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2N8fkN3rhL0

[raflaunches]

Build pictures coming tomorrow night for those interested in how the model goes together. I have changed a couple of things as matter of personal tastes but it is exactly per instructions.
I have decided to go for the more expensive RB fitings individual stanchions made from machined brass 11mm high 3 ball inconjunction with 0.2mm nickel silver railings. I'm not very good at etched brass railings!   There are a few upgrades that are suggested in the kit instructions if you wish to 'improve' your model further- such as brass props, exposed prop shafts, railings.
I have also replaced the mast dowel with brass 4mm dia tube as I have snapped wooden masts in the past I don't like replacing them or repairing them.
Until tomorrow night...

[mudway]

The Science Museum does, well did when I was last there, have a builder's model of Humber on display.

[Martin (Admin)]

Some interesting stuff here!   


( Keep posting Nick, we'll sort out what posts go where afterwards! ) 

[mudway]

Lucky for my poor credit card that the kit isn't 1/72 scale.

[raflaunches]

Part 3- The hull and running gear

Following the instructions and the plans in conjunction with the build CD provided I marked out the excess material on the hull, the prop shaft exits, A-frame support brackets and the rudder posts all in red marker pen.
Using my files (and wearing all relevant PPE- thats face mask, goggles and gloves!) I filed away the material and used the relevant drill sizes to drill out the holes.





Now some of you who are aware of the location of the rudders will notice that they are approx 12mm too forward to be completely accurate, there is a very, very good reason why Dean's Marine have done this and its not due to lack of references or laziness: if you look at the stern of the hull you will notice that it inclines inwards and the rudders if correctly located will sit beneath this area- no problem I hear you say well try getting access to the tiller arms after the deck is on! However I think the correct word for me is sadistic and I 'corrected' them before I realised my error!
Thats the problem of having copies of the original drawings from NMM!
I can still get access to my tillers but they'll never ever come off again! So my advice is to follow the instructions and how the design team have designed it to be!

[raflaunches]

Part 4- prop shafts and rudders





As mentioned earlier, I moved the rudders back (and what a mistaka to maka!) I had to move the prop shafts the same distance (12mm) and the A-frames brackets too. I glued the A frame brackets first and positioned the prop shafts (M2 internal diameter) tacking them in place with super-glue before putting filler around and smoothing in to its final position.





The rudders are white-metal items and slide smoothly into place, using the rudders as a guide and the cut-off point on the underside of the hull I followed the instructions and removed from the 1mm pre-printed plastic card sheet the tunnel walls. These are sandwiched together like bread and butter methods used in some scratch-building hulls from the 60s. Glued on to the hull and once again applied the body filler to blend it all together exactly as described in the instructions.

[raflaunches]

Part 5- the decks





All the decks are pre-printed laser cut 1mm thick plastic card items that only requires some minor filing to fit. In the kit there plastic pre-cut lengths on the 1mm sheet which are used for the deck supports, simply push out and glue into the fibre glass hull, build up as thicker layer as you wish, the kit instructions suggest a minimum of three.


I stuck the decks into place with super glue and smoothed any gaps with body filler and fine modelling filler to smooth any blemishes.





Just remember to fit the deck hatch supports before the decks go into place, like earlier items they are pre-printed laser cut items that require a little swipe with a sanding stick (file) and they are ready to glue into position.








As you can see in the next pictures I have used a micro servo for the rudder control servo and two lengths of brass rod for the connecting rods, they connect to the white-metal tiller arms. The servo sits on the item supplied in the kit made from five pieces of pre-printed laser cut plastic sheet which hold the servo snugly.
The plastic vacform item you can see behind the servo are the motor mounts, nothing is connected at the moment as the hull will be painted soon and I don't want motors and radio gear floating around the hull.








The weird lumpy things on the quarter deck I believe are either for standing on or protection of the hull/rudders, not sure which but every picture there is of the Humber class they are fitted and Ron has included them in the kit.

[Martin (Admin)]

Blimey, he's nearly finished it!   

[raflaunches]

Hi Mudway


Thanks for the pictures of the Humber builders model, it wasn't in the science museum when I visited there in December 2012 which really annoyed me as that was something I wanted to see!


My Dad and I wanted to build Humber in 1/32 scale to match our Insect class gunboat but it would be 6inches longer 4inches wider and be twice as heavy! Lets just say we quickly changed our minds but my wanting of a Humber class has at last been forfilled in a size that matches some of my early warships.


More pictures to come tomorrow night of the superstructure builds- oh and Martin there is a bit more to add before finishing, a lot of guns to be made and all the stanchions to be drilled, fitted and railing wire to be pushed through the three balls! I love simple looking warships which you can add as much detail as you want and Ron's kits have always, for me, achieved this.

[derekwarner]

Hey Nick......in OZ, we had a story of an old Paddler which had so little draft she could float on a heavy dew 

I see you have installed the propeller's as outboard turning.......is the manufacturers instruction?

Considering the Humbers underwater geometry between the skegs, propeller's and rudders, it may be interesting to consider a trial with inboard turning props 

You may be aware we had a thread [courtesy of Marty] on the differences  between inboard & outboard turning props a week or so ago

The other point is you guys in Europe call your waterways rivers  ...when in reality our OZ renditions are just overgrown creeks  ..... infested with European Carp. ........Derek

PS...with plastic propeller's being such a difficult material to maintain the paint, is there another lightweight alternative to RED.......?

[raflaunches]

Hi Derek


The props aren't fixed in yet and they were there just for show for the pictures, they will be in-turning and be either brass or bronze replacements. The ones in the kit can be used if so desired and as they are plastic they can be sprayed with the relevant metallic colour.
Hope this helps.


Part 6- superstructures


The forward bridge





Once again pre-printed laser cut items that have the square windows cut out for you- no more trying to get your windows parallel or in line with the next one!
Simply push out, swipe with your sanding stick and glue with your favorite plastic glue- I used Revell Contacta fine modelling glue.





The strengthening beams and supports for the bridge wings.

[raflaunches]

Part 6 (A) superstructures


The funnel casing. Once again same method of construction and materials.

[raflaunches]

Part 6 (B) superstructures


The aft bridge


Same construction, etc...

[raflaunches]

Part 7- engine room hatch


Same construction and materials used as per superstructures, this time some angles are thrown in to create the hatch and its openings.

[Bob K]

Is HMS Humber still in prototyping?  I can't see it on the Dean's web site.
Very detailed and helpful build sequence.  Following each stage with great interest.

[raflaunches]

Hi Bob


I think I got something like a pre-production kit, however I'm sure if you contact Ron there would be one available if you wanted one.
I'm really enjoying this build because its not so fussy like my Prince George- and thats due to me being a detailer and taking probably too far!


Hope you continue to enjoy the build, tormorrow night will be the wheel house/chart room, hammock lockers and boat use lockers.