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[Capt Podge]

the demands are finally subsiding
Ray.

Spoke too soon - didn't get into the workshop until after 9:30 this evening - managed to get a couple of photos though...

pic1: Stern light
pic2: Stbd nav light shows wiring entering superstructure (getting a bit grubby now, will need cleaning up)
pic3: Nice sheen with the lacquer applied.
pic4: Anchor chains.

[Capt Podge]

I've also been thinking about how best to link up the LED's

So far, I've soldered lengths of wire to each of the LED's, but that's all.

In the following photos I have rigged some spares to a choc-block, complete with the necessary resistors and jumper leads for the Positive legs, with all the Negatives in a single terminal.
They all light up nicely and don't get warm - so hopefully, I'm on the right track.

Regards,

Ray.

[Hande]

Someone's getting busy again 
(I've little hope  ).


Can you, capt, give some data about the led installation; I can tell they are micro-leds of sorts and they are connected in parallel. What is the ohm value of the resistors? I'm assuming a 12V system - is that right?  What if you want deck lights, wheelhouse lights? Will you have separate circuits for each? Finally, will you remotely switch them on/off?


You will be sailing this summer, won't you? 

[Capt Podge]

Hiya Hande, I'm still not 100% sure about how I'm going to achieve my aims for the lighting.

I'll try to answer your questions though...

First of all, the LED's and their relevant resistors were bought as sets from Component Shop, so I'm not sure what the actual ohm values are. Have a look at the reply 51 on page 3 of this log - this was kindly attached by Brian60 - download it, it might help you some.
Next, I only ever run my models on 6v - that's just what I started with and am happy to carry on doing for the foreseeable future.

Again, I'm not certain about how many lights I'm going to install but there will be at least 6, probably all on one circuit.

Finally, will you remotely switch them on/off?

I was going to but this would mean buying another servo and funds are getting tight.
Will probably just settle for a standard on/off switch, maybe hidden under the bench seat between the funnels ?

Sailing this summer ? I certainly hope so - I've been working on this model for nearly 11 months now.

Hope this reply helps you in some way.

Regards,

Ray.

[Capt Podge]

Settled into the workshop this evening, got everything ready for soldering up - LED's, wiring, clamps, insulating rubber, flux, solder and my 18watt iron.
Plugged it in, made a quick brew while it was warming up. Back to the workshop, soldering iron still cold.

Checked socket, plug, fuse - all ok.
Stripped the iron - all connections ok.

Can these things just "stop working?" it was ok last night....any ideas?

Regards,

Ray.

[Kipper]

My Draper iron did the same thing, it was a break in the fine wire used for the heating element, this wire does deteriorate with a lot of use & develop thin spots that then burn out.

[Capt Podge]

Ah, that sounds about right - off to Maplins for a replacement then, I guess.

Thanks for the quick reply Kipper.

Regards,

Ray.

[Ianlind]

I recently had a similar issue with my old Scope 3v 80 watt iron that I use for just about everything.
I dismantled the handpiece, couldn't see anything obvious, cleaned the carbon contactor, put it all back together and, nothing. Did the whole excersize over again, and still nothing!
Ordered another cheap 60 watt iron from my favoured supplier in china, including a range of different tips, and waited!
During this time I was using a cheap variable 60 watt iron, but with a very fine tip which didn't always give enough heat for the job, so I decided to have one last go at the Scope before I binned it!
Found the problem! Where the tip screws into the s/steel barrel it had built up a thin crust of oxidisation which acted like an insulator, even though I had unscrewed the tip a couple of times in the initial stripdown, it hadn't broken the crust, and visually there didn't appear to be a problem. Cleaned the thread with a coarse wire brush, and it's now working as good as new.
I've had this iron for well over 30 years, and I doubt the chinese cheappies will last this long. That said, they do work well for the price, and if they do kark it, it's only around AU$16.00 posted for a new variable temp unit with a bunch of tips. I usually keep a spare or two of most tools anyway!


Ian.

[Hande]

Hope this reply helps you in some way.

Regards,

Ray.

Thanks, Ray! I sure would like to install some lighting. Your example gives me an idea about what is involved.

[Capt Podge]

I seem to have spent quite a bit of time to achieve very little, but here goes...

For the lighting I've settled for a straight forward on / off switch, covered with bench seat, as stated previously.
All three lights have now been properly wired in, complete with the respective resistors, all working fine.

The lights are being run from a separate battery pack, located on top of the access hatch, along with a standard row of choc-blocks.

Finally received my Solder Paint today so I was able to make a start on the next running light, which will be located abaft the funnels on 01 deck.
The fixture is made up of 2 pieces of brass tube and a 4BA washer, the cut out for the lamp was fashioned with a small round file and then all 3 bits were joined with the solder paint.
This stuff, as recommended by others, is an easy to use (though expensive) alternative to traditional soldering methods - just paint it on (sparingly) and torch it - job done. It actually makes soldering a pleasure to do and is so neat. I'd say it's a must for those of us with shaky hands.

Lastly, for now, a piece of acetate was cut with a hole-punch and slid into place for a lens.

I should get this lamp fitted tomorrow I think, then I'll see about making one for the wheelhouse roof.

A few photo's then....

Pic 1: The 3 lamps in operation
Pic 2: Port & Stbd lamps - just discernable
Pic 3: Further shot of Stbd nav lamp
Pic 4: Stern lamp, switch uncovered just behind wheelhouse.

more coming....

[Capt Podge]

Pic 1: Post and lamp made up
Pic 2: The solder paint (other makes available) ordered through Maplins
Pic 3: It's a bit bright - but it works !
Pic 4: A bit Heath Robinson but this is the initial test phase.

Regards,

Ray.

[ballastanksian]

Heath robinson maybe, but it works and no one is suspended above a machine by old string and a funny but of stick!

Your illuminations look good. The photo showing your wiring of LEDs was useful and one I will try and remember.

[Capt Podge]

Thanks Ian. As can be seen in that last photo, the Resistor has yet to be soldered to the yellow (V+) wire. This will be done after the unit has been painted and the wires passed through into the lower superstructure.

Regards,

Ray.

[Hande]

most illuminating... 

[Capt Podge]

Just for a bit of added interest, here's a photo of the parts that go into the making of afore-mentioned pedestal lamps...

[Capt Podge]

...and the next one shows the lights being tested prior to removal for final painting...

...and another with the painted items hardening off.

[Capt Podge]

The only other work done is:-

For'd warping guides fitted to the lower superstructure, portholes glazed, grab rails installed and lower lifebelts fitted.

Also made a mould for the liferafts - the casting should be completed tomorrow.

A few pics to follow...


Regards,

Ray.

[radiojoe]

Good going Ray, she's going to be one very nice tug, two of my boats have lighting I to had thought about remotely switching them but then thought for the amount I sail at dusk it's so easy just to have a switch hiding somewhere, 
Joe.

[meechingman]

Here's a thought for your lighting.

My Denton (an ex Neddy) has a mix of grain of wheat and LED lighting. I prefer the warmer colour of the GOW bulbs - I think LEDs may well have got better at imitating this since then. LEDs were used for the port/starboard lights. But I put in two lighting circuits. The deck lights, spotlight, internal lights, after deck floodlights and the port/starboard lights come off the boat's main 6V battery. The mast lights come off their own 6V battery pack.

"Why do this?" you may ask. Well, the local club used to have night sailings, starting at dusk and ending when it was really pitch black. The battery on one of the boats ran down to zero and of course not only was it stuck out in the middle of the lake, but no-one could even see it! Finding and retrieving it was good fun, I can tell you. Even big torches aren't much help if you just don't know where to point them. At least if my battery should expire, the mast lights will still be on.

Here's Denton with lights switched on.

On Heighton, my other 'lit up' tug, I have a similar lighting mix, but she was built before Denton and has just one distribution board. 7.2V from the battery goes into a 5V regulator with trim pots allowing me to provide about 4.5V for the mast lights, 3V for the internals and around 1.5V for the LEDs. About 5 minutes to sketch out and half an hour to build from odds and sods in the electrics bin. She comes in before it gets really dark, just in case!

[Capt Podge]

Good going Ray, she's going to be one very nice tug, two of my boats have lighting I to had thought about remotely switching them but then thought for the amount I sail at dusk it's so easy just to have a switch hiding somewhere, 
Joe.

Thanks Joe.

I've yet to try a night sail somewhere. Our lake licence stipulates "no sailing after dusk"

Because our lake is right on the seaside we do get the odd "misty" day - the nav lights have saved a few models from collisions.

Regards,

Ray.

[Capt Podge]

Here's a thought for your lighting.

Thanks Meechingman.

I appreciate your breakdown of what's involved and will attempt something similar in one or two future models.

That's a nice looking conversion by the way.

Regards,

Ray.

[Capt Podge]

Just a little bit more done....

The yellow & blue stripes have been added to the superstructure, along with the ships bell and for'd loudhailer.

The 2 liferafts have been cast in resin, primed and painted, along with the new radar pedestal I've made.

The mounting for the aft end warping guide has been made, using 4 pieces of 13 x 10mm balsa which were then glued together to form a block, from which the final shape was made just by hand-sanding.
The guide was then added and the whole was primed and painted. Left alone now to harden off.

Pic 1: Stripes and fittings
Pic 2: Radar pedestal drying off
Pic 3: The replacement guide mounting
Pic 4: The 2 liferafts (still to be painted black around the "rubber" central seal)

Also dug out the old glazing for the wheelhouse, and promptly scattered them around the floor ! 

Thankfully, I've recovered them all - got them all sorted on the bench now - they'll be tackled on my next mini session (tomorrow ?)

Regards,

Ray.

[Capt Podge]

Update....

The wheelhouse glazing is now complete.

Next, the positions for the stanchions were marked and drilled out, stanchions currently dry fitted. Delivery of brass handrails is underway.
Meanwhile, the liferaft centre "rubbers" have been painted and the units mounted.
Aft warping guide roller glued into position.
The wheelhouse doors / frames have been tidied up and fitted. A little word of caution here for anyone else building this or a similar model - earlier in the build I glued the window frames all round and when it came to fitting the doors I had to cut away a couple of portions of the window frames so that the doors/frames could be glued flush against the wheelhouse.

Next, the 3 windscreen wipers were added to the front wheelhouse windows.

The mast and funnels have been reassembled and the whole thing pinned into position - still needs rigging before gluing into place.
(I'm actually thinking of leaving this assembly removable for transportation/storage - not sure yet)

...and that's where I'm up to so far.

Just a few more photos for now.

Regards,

Ray.

[Brian60]

Is it too late to mention your stern view lights?

You have two showing white, it should be one. However for towing purposes you do have two stern lights, 1 yellow above 1 white. Don't ask me why because from a distance I am sure they will both look the same colour!

[Capt Podge]

Good information is never too late Brian, thanks for the heads up, I could always just disconnect one or the other, or fashion a yellow lens for the upper one.

Regards,

Ray.