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Author Topic: HMS Royal Marine  (Read 14392 times)

Bob K

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HMS Royal Marine
« on: May 05, 2016, 10:17:06 AM »

HMS Royal Marine

Having been greatly impressed by the sea handling qualities of a Dean’s HMS Bronington at Black Park recently I decided to buy HMS Royal Marine from the same ‘compact kit’ series.  A WW2 armed trawler.

What’s in the box
For £120.16 you get to build a ship just over 2 ft (619mm) long x 4 inches (102mm) beam with a good quality detailed f/glass hull, 3 sheets of plastic ready marked for cutting, 2 trays of nice standard resin and metal fittings, sheet of vac formings, brass wire, rigging thread, deck planking sheet, plus prop shaft rudder and propeller. It came with a full size colour plan, 22 page detailed booklet of illustrated instructions, and a CD of photos. 



In addition I bought a motor, 5A ESC, coupling, and 6V 1600mA battery.

First impressions:  The hull will need very little trimming.  Fittings, as usual with Dean’s these days, will need almost no dressing to remove flash etc.  For such a little vessel there is certainly a large quantity of fittings, more than 200.

As usual with one of these I will need to carefully read all the instructions, at least twice, before formulating my plan of operations.  I am going to enjoy building this one !
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HMS Skirmisher (1905), HMS Amazon (1906), HMS K9 (1915), Type 212A (2002), HMS Polyphemus (1881), Descartes (1897), Iggle Piggle boat (CBBC), HMS Royal Marine (1943), HMS Marshall Soult, HMS Agincourt (1912)

big_bri

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Re: HMS Royal Marine
« Reply #1 on: May 05, 2016, 04:02:14 PM »

I love armed trawlers Bob, I was thinking of getting one of these a couple of months ago, but decided to do something a bit bigger...This is mine in 1/32 scale

I might pick one of these up from Ron a Wicksteed
Looking forward to your build mate :-))
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Bob K

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Re: HMS Royal Marine
« Reply #2 on: May 05, 2016, 04:46:22 PM »

Looks really nice Brian, excellent workmanship.  It is roughly three times the length of mine, but I am sure it will prove very seaworthy.  More info please as your build continues . . .
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Capt Podge

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Re: HMS Royal Marine
« Reply #3 on: May 05, 2016, 08:34:47 PM »

That seems like a fair price for what you're getting Bob - hope to drop in on this one from time to time.  :-)

Regards,

Ray.
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ballastanksian

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Re: HMS Royal Marine
« Reply #4 on: May 05, 2016, 11:03:20 PM »

More interesting stuff to read about:O)
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Bob K

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Re: HMS Royal Marine
« Reply #5 on: June 12, 2016, 02:10:15 PM »

Going slowly and carefully on this build.  As stated previously started with reading through the instruction book twice before removing anything from the box

Hull Preparation

Carefully cleaned the fibre glass hull.  Not much trimming required on the edges. Nice.
Next was carefully cutting out the rectangular freeing ports as these would be required for positioning the deck support strips.  A pattern of 0.5 dia holes, and finished with a fine point dremmel bit and mini diamond files.
I drilled the marked position for the rudder tube, which was then fitted with its bearing in some epoxy reinforced Milliput.
With the rudder positioned I could now determine the prop/propeller position, drill its hole, and tack/glue in place.  I also added an oiling tube to the shaft.



Using the vac-formed motor mounting I modified it for neoprene mounting and a clamp.  I used a 2.0 mm ID tube as an alignment tool between shaft and motor, before epoxying in the mounting and prop shaft.  I may reposition the 6V 1600 mAh battery to get the best weight distribution before fitting the ESC and rudder servo.  On the plans the servo is a long way back, and I would prefer a shorter push rod if possible.

So far, going well. 
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Re: HMS Royal Marine
« Reply #6 on: June 12, 2016, 04:48:42 PM »

That is a tidy installation so far Bob. I like to see a good dollop of resin, and it hasn't run either :-))
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Bob K

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Re: HMS Royal Marine
« Reply #7 on: June 12, 2016, 05:25:40 PM »

Thank you.  I used a little resin around the hole, moulded the Milliput around the rudder shaft & bearing, then coated it over on the top.  Always worth spending time getting the internals accurately set up, before fitting the deck supports and deck. 

I am also planning the rest of the electrics before fitting the deck.  ie:  I would like the Planet Rx vertical with its aerial inside the wheelhouse for best reception.
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Re: HMS Royal Marine
« Reply #8 on: June 12, 2016, 05:31:16 PM »

Just caught up with this build Bob, as you probably already know with a fair bit of your own input Deans do make a lovely model, the hull in particular light with plenty of detail, enjoy your build Bob I'll keep following. :-))
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Re: HMS Royal Marine
« Reply #9 on: June 12, 2016, 06:43:13 PM »

Lovely work Bob, nice filing-everything ship shape and square. :-))
I do prefer a short servo arm rod as I often have the horrible feeling that if they are too long it'll bend the rod or damage the servo.
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derekwarner

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Re: HMS Royal Marine
« Reply #10 on: June 12, 2016, 10:47:01 PM »

Very good Bob......will be following on also.....love your file set  :kiss:

Derek
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Bob K

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Re: HMS Royal Marine
« Reply #11 on: June 13, 2016, 07:39:28 AM »

Nice Rolson files Derek, just like mine.  I have five sets of files, for different purposes.  From the ultra fine diamond Sealey ones used on the freeing ports, to some aggressively chunky ones like my twelve inch Dreadnaught -  which I believe was specifically designed for working on 1/528 scale models of post 1906 battleships.   %%
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Bob K

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Re: HMS Royal Marine
« Reply #12 on: June 21, 2016, 12:42:15 PM »

One of the reasons for my liking Dean’s models is that I prefer working in plastic than wood any day.  Everything is pre-marked on the sheets supplied and numbered according to the instruction book and photo’s.  However, it is always best to check and measure each part before cutting.  A sharp knife and steel rule is all that is needed.

Decking and Superstructure

Rather than having the rudder servo a long way for’ard near the battery I made a wood-reinforced styrene bridge for it over the prop shaft.  Another small mod was using 3/16" Plastruct square sections for the deck supports instead of the styrene strips supplied.  Deck was cut out and trimmed to fit.  I am not gluing it in just yet, taking time to get all the coamings fitted, linkage set up, complete the wiring, and position the Rx as high in the hull as possible but away from the ESC.  Original plan was to site Rx in wheelhouse, but dropped as it would have been too close to the ESC. 



Into the bath to establish optimum position for battery tray - merely showed that more ballast would be needed.  Some 5 min epoxy to set the tray in place. 

When all the internals are fitted and wiring tested I can glue the deck in and finish the edges with a fine filler.  Starting to look like a ship.

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Bob K

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Re: HMS Royal Marine
« Reply #13 on: June 23, 2016, 10:06:00 AM »


Sorry about the loss of the last photo, Photobucket gets a bit unstable sometimes, refusing to add pictures then duplicating them.  Replacing here:-




~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

HMS Royal Marine

Wiring completed and tested.  Everything working nicely.  I prefer to get the insides done before fitting the deck whilst maximum access is available.



Deck now glued in after fitting coamings and hatches.  Measuring everything first is really important on this model as some of the pre marked numbered pieces did not fit too well, especially around the steering cover and f’o’s’cle deck area.  Unusual for these kits.  Luckily there is plenty of spare styrene sheet to remake undersized parts from.



When glue is fully set I will apply some fine filler to the joins to tidy them up.


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Re: HMS Royal Marine
« Reply #14 on: June 23, 2016, 01:42:15 PM »

Hi Bob,  printed pieces not fitting is not at all unusual for Deans, which is why I say " with a fair bit of your own input" but you do get the basics of a very nice model, good job there is plenty of waste styrene I had to bin some of the printed pieces on mine as they were just too small and had to make new ones, I think the best thing about Deans kits is it teaches you how to scratch build so I thank them for that,   she's coming along nicely Bob, looks like a good sea keeping hull. :-))
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Bob K

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Re: HMS Royal Marine
« Reply #15 on: June 23, 2016, 03:25:00 PM »

Thank you Joe.  This is my 4th Dean's construction and I have rarely had problems before, and then only minor occurrences which can usually be circumvented by keep reading the info and measuring before cutting.  I have also 'scratch' built models so this approach is second nature.  The term "kit" may be misleading to those familiar with Airfix etc  where you just pull a part off the sprue and stick it on.  I would say semi-kit is more accurate.  Model making skills are still required, especially planning out each stage in advance, and 'dry building' each sub-assembly to check fit, and where necessary adjust.

She has all the makings of a good sea boat, despite her size.  At £120 excellent value IMO.
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HMS Skirmisher (1905), HMS Amazon (1906), HMS K9 (1915), Type 212A (2002), HMS Polyphemus (1881), Descartes (1897), Iggle Piggle boat (CBBC), HMS Royal Marine (1943), HMS Marshall Soult, HMS Agincourt (1912)

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Re: HMS Royal Marine
« Reply #16 on: June 29, 2016, 03:53:31 PM »

HMS Royal Marine

Let me make it clear that my purpose in this build log is to show how this ship can be built, with a few small ‘improvements’ of my choice, to encourage and assist others who may be interested in doing so.  It is not a difficult build, but care and good planning are essential.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Finishing off the f’o’c’sle area and deck edges with a fine filler was fairly straightforward.
A fair amount of it needed to smooth the inner hull f/glass texture. 



Next was the large forward hatch. I decided to use a lip at the rear and two magnets with steel keeper plates at the for’ard corners. 
Keepers were conduit knockouts from a slimline conduit box.  Just the right size and thickness.




Before starting on the superstructures, around 120 bulwark supports had to be constructed.  Rather than cut tiny pieces from the 0.5 mm styrene, as per the instruction book, I decided to use 1/16” Plastruct tees and a 1/16 x 1/16 square section for the ‘wooden” handrail above. 
I just felt I could make a neater job that way.

Careful planning on spray painting is required, even at this early stage.  I aim to use the same method as previous ships (See my HMS Amazon thread) in getting the hull prepared, masking access holes and prop etc.  Superstructure to be built as sub-assemblies, and fittings mounted on card using double sided tape with legend giving their assembly part numbers for identification.


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HMS Skirmisher (1905), HMS Amazon (1906), HMS K9 (1915), Type 212A (2002), HMS Polyphemus (1881), Descartes (1897), Iggle Piggle boat (CBBC), HMS Royal Marine (1943), HMS Marshall Soult, HMS Agincourt (1912)

Bob K

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Re: HMS Royal Marine
« Reply #17 on: June 30, 2016, 03:38:50 PM »

HMS Royal Marine, initial sea trials

With innards installed and tested, and with basic deck-work fitted it was time to progress from bath to initial sea trials.  Purpose was to test seagoing operation and ballasting.  For the purposes of this test a temporary cover was fitted over the superstructure coamings. 
In the bath it is not that easy to see the exact waterline on a deeply curving hull, nor check how the hull rides under power.





Lead shot ballast in small zip-loc bags to make it easier to trim.  I decided to remove 150gm from the forward section and 50gm from the aft.  Rides better in the water.
Steering is super sensitive with the huge rudder.  I am going to need alter the linkages before putting the top hamper in place.

All in all a successful two hour sailing session.

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Bob K

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Re: HMS Royal Marine
« Reply #18 on: November 24, 2016, 03:26:08 PM »

HMS Royal Marine.

A long enforced pause in all dockyard work here, but progress on this model is finally underway again.  Hull sea trials went well, everything tested out and primary ballasting done.  I have made a start on the superstructure, which will be in sub-assemblies to facilitate spray painting.

Forward gun platform mounting needed some improvisation as illustrations and parts had got out of step since the original kit.  However, no worries. Some 20mm tube and Plastruct sections solved it.  The platform and lip were straightforward.

The main superstructure parts required a lot of measure (and sometimes remake) before cutting. Additional packing had to be made up as it was about 4mm wider than the coaming box already installed on the deck.  No real problem, but it underlines the need to plan well ahead and take extra care.



Before cutting out the various parts with windows I needed to cut these small openings with great care - before separating the parts including them.  I found that a sheet of thin foam board underneath helped the Xacto knife work as the lattices of 22 cut-outs are quite fragile. Small incisions, made away from the corners.



Successful, and will only need minor needle file dressing afterwards.

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Re: HMS Royal Marine
« Reply #19 on: November 24, 2016, 09:18:13 PM »

Watching on Bob....she looks fine in the water :-)).....are all of the superstructure building walls pre numbered? ... as I see two different sized  sections however both marked as No 115  O0

Derek
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ballastanksian

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Re: HMS Royal Marine
« Reply #20 on: November 24, 2016, 09:24:28 PM »

She's building up nicely Bob. I agree with your comments earlier about parts fit, I made a few new plates for the superstructure on my M15 Monitor, nothing seriously complex to make.
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Bob K

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Re: HMS Royal Marine
« Reply #21 on: November 24, 2016, 09:38:35 PM »

Astute observation Derek, as always.   :-))

Yes there are two parts marked "115" but as they are clearly identified on the instructions booklet photos as to where they go and it was quite obvious in practice.  NB:  The lower row of parts is for the wheelhouse, the upper row the chart room above.  In all fairness this kit was originally designed in 1990 and has been through several improvement iterations since. The original build sequence photos however remain 1990. It would probably require a new 'from scratch' build to re-photograph and re-annotate the instructions booklet and styrene. 

In practice by reading everything carefully and 'measure before cut' it all works out.
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Re: HMS Royal Marine
« Reply #22 on: November 24, 2016, 11:06:25 PM »

It's good to see you back on this one Bob - and you have my full sympathy with regard to all those window/door cut-outs. They can be a bit of a nightmare but, taking one's time usually produces the required results.  :-)

Regards,

Ray.
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Bob K

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Re: HMS Royal Marine
« Reply #23 on: November 26, 2016, 05:36:29 PM »

HMS Royal Marine.

Some very delicate needle file work to dress those 22 tiny cutouts.  Phew!

From this point onwards I am cutting all parts oversized and gradually trimming down to ensure a good fit.  Taking time to let adhesives dry solidly before final joint trimming, then going on to the next group of parts.  So don’t expect daily updates.

Wheelhouse and Bridge both coming on nicely.

The steering cover needed quite a bit of packing to become a good fit over the steering coaming box.  To hold the cover against the rear of the coaming box I used neoprene blocks attached to the underside of the cover with impact adhesive.



Glazing will go in after spraying of course.  I intend fitting LED's.

More edge bulkheads for the bridge deck next, then I will use 1/16” Plastruct tees on their inside faces.  The same as I used on the hull bulwarks.  After that I will start work on the after part of the main superstructure.
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HMS Skirmisher (1905), HMS Amazon (1906), HMS K9 (1915), Type 212A (2002), HMS Polyphemus (1881), Descartes (1897), Iggle Piggle boat (CBBC), HMS Royal Marine (1943), HMS Marshall Soult, HMS Agincourt (1912)

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Re: HMS Royal Marine
« Reply #24 on: November 26, 2016, 09:54:47 PM »

Excellent progress Bob. Full marks for window fettling.
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