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[Trucker]

Thank you all for your kind words regarding my build, its heart warming and encouraging 


Trucker

[Trucker]

one big job has been going around my head now for a few days, that is what material should i make all the stantions from, brass or abs rod and tube, i can seen benefits for both ways, the brass idea will involve plenty of silver soldering, cleaning up , the abs method seems a bit more easier to construct but might not last the test of time   i could buy some but as ive scratch build pretty much every thing i might as well make the stantions too.


whats your thoughts



Trucker

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Hi Trucker,
For me it would be the brass rod/tube route. However, it does not have to be silver soldering, normal soft ['lead'] solder will suffice. I'm in Kent myself.....not sure how far away, so might be able to help. However, the main three points to remember are:

• A clean joint - both parts cleaned with very fine [1200 grade] wet & dry
• right heat [temperature] for the right size of job / material
• a rock steady positioning [sometimes pinning the parts to wood or the special fibre composite soldering sheets using paper clips cut to 'U' shape] and then a good quality flux paste.

Wash with soapy water once finished and then 'Swiss' file [cheap versions for this job, NOT your finest!] the main surplus solder and final wet and dry rub to get back to original brass surfaces. Metal Primer coat and then a black satin enamel.


All the best. This is covered on my Shannon build with both this and my silver soldering approach. I taught this on my U3A Model Boat course some years back and folk said that once they went down this road the 'mystic' of soldering vanished and they would always solder in future. QED.
All the best, do come back on a PM if you want any further 'chat throughs'.


Cheers,
Kim

[JoJoElbe]

Hi Trucker,if you handle your boats with great care and never had problems with transport etc. PS would be ok. Maybe ps-rod and a thin rod of brass inside.
I will built all the stuff from brass, especially the connection into the deck will be tricky, my plan is to make it from 0.5mm brass and about 2mm wide, drill holes in the bar which holds the deck and twist it below, glue that part with superglue. In the photos and at least one of the other building blogs the holder on/in deck and the stantions both have a triangle which is the connection plate. That I would take over ("I'll do it that way too") so that one has an easier way to repair 'mistakes'.

Indeed the soldering is tricky, but if you found the right material and tools including right temperature and soldering water it can go quite well.  You just need to make a form or a hold so that everything keeps right in place and doesn't move. As many of the parts are needed several times it's worth the effort.
For the stantions I would use small brass pipes, for connectionts you can stick a tiny rod as connector between both parts and use soldering water over it. The connector is always helping for a stronger connection. The plates which hold the steel 'ropes' I would cut the stantion from both sides and stick a plate of brass through it.
I've made a sketch which hopefully helps a bit understanding my words.
Good luck!
Best,Joerg
 

[Trucker]

made a couple of trial stanchions  today using 1/8th brass tube, after filing in the cod mouth shapes to take another piece of tube which the safety cable go through i silver soldered every thing together trying my best to keep things inline, over all its not too bad, my concern at the moment is the size is a bit big, another trial is needed...


Trucker

[Trucker]

Hi all
i settled on brass rod for the stanchions with tube for the middle and top holes, construction is made up of two stanchion parts with the tube silver soldered in, once i worked out a the best way to make these it became a little easier, heres a couple of pictures so far, one shows the construction phase with a few made , and another my basic soldering set up.


Trucker

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Nicely done Trucker   There's more than 'one way to skin a cat!', as the saying goes. You had a few thoughts, shared them, got advice and made up your own mind on which way you would proceed. They look good and solid and should take the odd knock, which we all do to our models, usually loading or unloading for the pond or going to a show! The end products look neat too.
Keep up the good work....I am sure you will tempt someone else to try this method of construction too.
Looking forward to your next Post. I hope to get back to my Shannon in the very near future.
Regards,
Kim

[JoJoElbe]

good job  looks very stable, that will be an advantage later.
But it was a nasty/awful job, I guess.
Best,Joerg

[Trucker]

thanks for the encouragement guys, thinking of the base now and how to attach them securely to the deck,


hows your tyne progressing joerg




Trucker

[JoJoElbe]

Hi Trucker,if you look into beyno1968's built, you can see extended stations which were sticked (and glued) in to the Deck.  Probably the easiest way. As your stantions seem to have the needed length, you can stick some MS rod inside for extension.
https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,61309.50.html
I have another examp,e where the buider used an aluminum angle profile and bult the stand (deck connection) from it.  Just don't know where it's from, I try to send you a pn.
My tyne is progresing 'slowly but unsystematic'. As I work and develope on boathouse, slipway and lifeboat in parallel there are long 'thinking' times inbetween 
The motors to the propellers are mounted, rudder built and mounted but not the connections to the servo, as all depends on the space I need for the trim plate movement. Which, at the moment is handled by 0.5mm stainless steel rod running in various sizes of ps pipes. But the bow inside the hull ana a propper movement ist tricky. Nevertheless, I think I have now two diferent solutions wher at lest the non favored will work, I just have to come up with the manual movement part inside the hull.
The slipway idea is already a bit further than the last image and I wait for some test cutouts from my colleague with the laser.
Besides all,I was asked to write an article about the built of my pontoon, so I had to finish the 'non-invasive' clamp idea which will not do any harm to where it will be mounted.
Best refards,Joerg

Image: a fantastic morning at the pond with my LÜBECK II (Sievers, Hannover), WILMA SIKORSKI (Graupner) and  my pontoon, mounted with (still too long) metal grabbers.

[Trucker]

hi all.
I have put together a few trial stanchion feet, this seems to be the stronger and better looking one so far, much work is needed but im on the right track.




Trucker

[Trucker]

Wondering if the stanchion base that I'm making would be good to resin mould, could also do with stanchions in situ
Never done resin moulding, so what's your thoughts could it be done


Trucker

[JoJoElbe]

Hi Trucker,I just use water washable resin, therefore I can't use the whole variation (there are semi flexible resins) but normal resin would be to brittle I think, there is no flexibility, it'll break fast.But maybe someone has a solution with alcohol washable resin.  I still head for a brass solution, but I may have a laser cut solution.
Manfred Sievers (Hannover) has these things in brass for the 1:20 Mersey lifeboat. A guy just started to build the boat in a german forum. When it comes to the stantions, I'll try to get you that solution.
In this forum you can see the content of that kit:https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,60106.msg632950.html#msg632950
but it's from germany... tax customs and all that poop ....
Best,Joerg

[Trucker]

been silver soldering again    here are the stanchions for my tyne class lifeboat, clean up and the bases to sort out, but things have definitely moved on, just may be an end in sight 


Trucker

[JoJoElbe]

looks god 

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Trucker,
As JoJo has said, they look good [god]   You will be pleased with the time and effort spent on these when you look back at this episode of the build!
When you have taken the worst of the excess solder off, one cheaper and effective way of getting the final result is to use the emery boards that the ladies use to shape and buff their nails. These can be got from Boots the chemist [including a sponge centred block with four grades of 'grit'] or for slightly more cost the modellers ones from Flory Models in a variety of packs and grades. Alternately you can double sided tape or glue various grades of wet & dry paper to stiff card. If you use a small amount of washing up liquid in the small dish of water, to act as the lubricant, this will help to stop the paper from clogging.
So, all the best with the finishing progress, it's great to see someone have a go and succeed with their silver soldering. Remember to use a metal primer once finished, to stop them tarnishing as they await their final colour coats.
Cheers,
Kim [Canterbury Coxswain]

[JoJoElbe]

Trucker,
As JoJo has said, they look good [god]    

Kind of Alzheimer disease on my small keyboard here 

Trucker: The more stable they are, the happier you will beat at the end!   
Joerg

[Trucker]

Hi all.
ive been waiting for this very warm dry condition for quite some time, probably like most i expect, so, i have finally repainted the white hull on my tyne class, its not a bad finish with the rattle can, a couple of small runs but that what you get by rushing things, i hope for a few more days of the bright yellow object above us so i can get on with the re coat of the blue..


Trucker

[Trucker]

Hi, i have finally put my lifeboat in the lake for a maiden voyage, no bubbly though, my thoughts are all went well, how ever i do have one electrical issue, besides that the hull was dry inside, the boat looked trimmed, and the speed was good,


ive put the issue on the electric heading...


Trucker

[Trucker]

With the bases for the stanchions made up I'm now putting the plan together in order to make the mould   and resin mould them, how ever each base now has a piece of plastic rod attached which will go through the deck to aid stability when in place, SO, I m not sure of the best method to make the mould, IE, two pieces, envilop, what's the experts advice , oh I'm not moulding the stanchions just the base....

[Trucker]

Here i have a pic of the stanchion feet with extensions attached and a before and after of the life rings that will be attached to the railings,  moulding and painting in the few days,


Trucker

[Trucker]

heres a little pic of my first ever attempt at moulding, i have done two moulds, one for all the straight footings and one for the feet that have angles , fingers crossed all will be good..


Trucker

[Trucker]

heres a pic of my first ever attempt of moulding, these are for the footings of my stanchions, one mould for the straight footings and one for the angled ones


Trucker

[Trucker]

Well, the moulding did not go as i had hoped, the rubber mould set ok but the actual master i had made up just was not good enough, so back to the bench to come up with some thing better, even though i have already made all the stanchions im wondering if things will be easier to mould if, i mould the base and stanchion as one piece.


What colour should the life rings be. i see some are orange, is that the same orange as the cabin, and i have seen life rings that are red ish in colour.


Trucker









 ,

[JoJoElbe]

What colour should the life rings be. i see some are orange, is that the same orange as the cabin, and i have seen life rings that are red ish in colour.

Hi Trucker,
I can't help with mouldings and resin, but for the life rings I would choose a photo of the boat you're building and use that color.  If they are painted 8probably the old ones) it's resonable that they have the same orange. If they are from colored plastic it will be similar but not exactly the same orange (whicht shouldn't matter for the model.
Best,Joerg