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Author Topic: Andy's Amati Riva Aquarama build  (Read 17565 times)

Taranis

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Re: Andy's Amati Riva Aquarama build
« Reply #350 on: August 26, 2020, 10:43:27 am »

Thank you


The magnet solution




This part of the deck arrowed I originally left it untrimmed as it wasn't clear from the manual how it should be.
After fitting the edge trim last night I concluded it wanted trimming back flush with the bulkhead.









For builders who find it frustrating searching back through threads for a particular photo.....  the gallery is here with currently 571 pictures  https://techno.smugmug.com/Amati-Riva-Aquarama/i-DvfgtM9

DJW

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Re: Andy's Amati Riva Aquarama build
« Reply #352 on: August 26, 2020, 03:10:42 pm »

Looking and sounding good..!  You might need it if your heading to Scotland, been raining a bit up there I think...


 :-))

ukmike

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Re: Andy's Amati Riva Aquarama build
« Reply #353 on: August 26, 2020, 08:18:20 pm »

Hi Andy.

I've been giving some thought to the problems that you mentioned earlier, re the varnishing.
 
I can't offer any explanation as to the reason for short drying times that you are experiencing with the varnish, as I am getting at least 20/25 mins. before the brush starts to drag. Maybe, the original recipe has been tweaked somewhat by the German new owners, they have owned the company for about a year now and yours is, "fresh" stock. I will certainly be very disappointed if that proves to be the case.
The Classic that I am using if old stock and that may explain the difference. Fortunate for me if that is the case.

Re. brush marks. Quick drying times will definitely not allow the varnish time to level,only reduced temps. will extend it. Also, "tipping off", could help in this respect.

Forgive me if you already know all this, but the brush angle is very important when tipping off. I don't know your varnishing sequence but just for an example, let's say, bottom and sides first and then top and transom last. When tipping off always hold the brush at an high angle and use the tip only and not loaded with varnish.

In the example, do the bottom, thin coats always, tip off, then varnish one or both side, tip off, then tip off the bottom again, tip off the now varnished sides, tip off the sides again before doing the top etc. Varnish the top and transom, tip off, wait a few minutes, check for runs and sages, tip off to correct. Finally tip off the top etc.
After a minute or two check all over for any faults and you should have enough time to correct.

Sounds complicated but worth the effort to achieve your desired finish. Hope that helps.

Mike.
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Taranis

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Re: Andy's Amati Riva Aquarama build
« Reply #354 on: August 27, 2020, 08:27:15 am »

Thank you Mike.
I just had to find out for myself what marine no.1 was like and it is that which didn't have enough brushing time.


The recent coat of classic applied in the bathroom initially looked really good but still there are significant dust particles, certainly not good enough when it comes to a final coat.
Next time I'll try it without the extract fan running as that is obviuously drawing air through the room.


I'm doing no more varnish or sanding for 3 weeks now.

Nordlys

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Re: Andy's Amati Riva Aquarama build
« Reply #355 on: August 27, 2020, 08:45:02 am »

I thought it was very decent of you to publish/post the entire gallery of photos you have taken of this build.
It certainly will be of great benefit to be able to refer quickly to any particular stage of build,
A methodical masterclass !
Thanks.
Nordlys.
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Taranis

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Re: Andy's Amati Riva Aquarama build
« Reply #356 on: August 27, 2020, 08:47:06 am »

My pleasure Nord all my photos of all my builds are on Smugmug to share in various galleries.
For the most part a photo says more than words so the gallery is quicker for reference.
Caution tho as any mistakes are also there  {-)

ukmike

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Re: Andy's Amati Riva Aquarama build
« Reply #357 on: August 27, 2020, 09:04:54 am »

Morning Andy.


I have the same problems with dust particles and the only way is to accept my friends offer of the use of his wet room. Just for the final coat.
I don't mind a little dust up until then as they easily rub level as you have found.
It's strange, but I can't remember it being a problem when I varnished my Amati Aqarama, maybe I just got lucky.
Use the tipping off tho' as it does help, especially with the sneeky runs and sags.


I too am going to leave the Varnishing for while and get on with making the deck fittings which is going to be a long job I think, I tend to scrap more than I keep.


Mike
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Taranis

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Re: Andy's Amati Riva Aquarama build
« Reply #358 on: August 27, 2020, 09:22:32 am »

Yesterday I had her in water  %%   I'd say 3.8kg is about the maximum displacement. I'm still a little lower on the bow than I would like but I think I'll get away with it. In hindsight I should have removed absolutely everything from the day cabin area before decking it over.


My finish just now



Taranis

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Re: Andy's Amati Riva Aquarama build
« Reply #360 on: August 27, 2020, 11:10:53 am »

Every gram counts



Took out what I could get to here too

Taranis

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Re: Andy's Amati Riva Aquarama build
« Reply #361 on: August 27, 2020, 01:40:49 pm »

Some helium bubbles added to seat and bench bases






ESC switches relocated



Seats will require some filler depending on your level of fussiness  %%


Taranis

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Re: Andy's Amati Riva Aquarama build
« Reply #362 on: August 27, 2020, 03:59:30 pm »

Book says matt white but I think Tamiya FINE white primer works OK.


I haven't found a blue yet but Tamiya might have something close.








Shot of motor ventilation

Mark T

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Re: Andy's Amati Riva Aquarama build
« Reply #363 on: August 27, 2020, 05:41:43 pm »

Great attention to detail Andy - I'm looking forward to seeing some pictures of all of the Riva's on the water.

Taranis

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Re: Andy's Amati Riva Aquarama build
« Reply #364 on: August 29, 2020, 08:44:28 am »

Thanks Mark. I bought Tamiya light blue and French blue yesterday to try for the upholstery trim but today I have to finally go replace the sump pan on the van. I've put the job off for too long and sods law it will spring a leak on holiday. I'm hoping it goes without a problem and only a couple of hours. The new pan is from Poland eBay and twice the gauge of steel that Fiat use as well as being very much cheaper. I have hydraulic self levelling jacks to lift the 4 ton but its not good getting up and down on my back these days  %%  Combining this with changing the 9 litres of oil and filters, one stone two birds   O0
 

Taranis

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Re: Andy's Amati Riva Aquarama build
« Reply #365 on: August 29, 2020, 10:39:18 am »

Mixed news  %%
Contrary to advice from an expert mechanic in the trade I cannot remove the sump without removing the offside drive shaft as it blocks one of the bolts  <*<


Good news is having scrapped off the very substantial rust and tapped the casing all over the affected areas it does not sound like it will fail any time soon so Iíve sent wifey for wire brush,hammerite and paint brush  :kiss:


No time wasted as Iíve serviced it anyway.


Back modelling this afternoon.  :-))

Taranis

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Re: Andy's Amati Riva Aquarama build
« Reply #366 on: August 29, 2020, 04:35:39 pm »

This is Tamiya TS23 light blue and it compares well to the sticky stripes supplied.





This is rust  %%



Black Hammerite after cleaning off  :-))  if holiday goes Pete Tong it won't be down to oil leaks  8)



Taranis

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Re: Andy's Amati Riva Aquarama build P40e mixer
« Reply #367 on: August 29, 2020, 10:37:32 pm »

Whilst whiling away time this evening I had a rummage through my Action Electronics stock and found a P40e
If I'm not mistaken this will slow the inboard motor on turns ? even with brushless as it acts on the ECS signals only and not the power to the motors like a P94 for brushed motors does.


So after my jollies I'll set this up as per instructions with 2 spare servos on the bench.


Basically it connects to throttle and rudder RX outputs and mixes 2 ESC's proportional to rudder on the outputs.


I plan on using the mode 1 of the four options available.


It is very lightweight  :-))


 https://www.componentshop.co.uk/p40e-marine-motor-mixer.html

https://www.componentshop.co.uk/pdf/P40E.pdf


Taranis

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Re: Andy's Amati Riva Aquarama build TS-10 is the right blue
« Reply #368 on: August 30, 2020, 01:02:00 pm »

My last day for a while.


Ammendment to the blue!
Yesterday looking at the two blues the cap would indicate that French blue is a darker shade than light blue  >>:-( so I used light blue.



I have just tested the French one and it is lighter and a much better choice.  :-))


Light



French and my choice TS-10



Nordlys

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Re: Andy's Amati Riva Aquarama build
« Reply #370 on: August 30, 2020, 02:34:47 pm »

I have action p40 mixer not yet installed. Can you give me the connections for each motor and rudders to the P40 as I thought the rudders would be redundant?
Nord.
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Taranis

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Re: Andy's Amati Riva Aquarama build
« Reply #372 on: August 30, 2020, 03:21:12 pm »

Maybe need some matt lacquer on the blue

Nordlys

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Re: Andy's Amati Riva Aquarama build
« Reply #373 on: August 30, 2020, 03:25:49 pm »

Thanks Andy, of course I have that sheet too!
So, do you work the rudders with RH stick on radio as well as one motor?
Sorry I'm a bit vague here.
Nord.
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Taranis

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Re: Andy's Amati Riva Aquarama build
« Reply #374 on: August 30, 2020, 03:30:44 pm »

The rudders can be regarded as one, there is only one servo operating them.
Motors there are two with one esc each


On the P40 there are location points for esc 1 esc 2 and rudder


The two wires marked S and T are Steering and Throttle
They connect to the receiver as aile and throttle
As long as both dip switches are set to on the unit will operate in mode 1


The throttle will operate on left stick as normal but as steering is applied on right stick it will slow or stop the inboard prop
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