Topic: Cheddar Proteus (Read 10378 times)

jpdenver · « **on:** August 09, 2020, 04:30:48 am »

Greetings Steamers,
I recently scored a slightly dusty low mileage Cheddar Proteus.
It has the sensors installed for the ABC (Pressure and Sight-glass) but no electronic control module.

I need the manuals for the set, boiler and engine.
Can anyone provide them for me?
Also - If anyone has any guidance on the use of the ABC sensors? Success or failures?

Thanks,
Jim Pope
Denver, CO USA

derekwarner · « **Reply #1 on:** August 09, 2020, 06:54:13 am »

That's a nice ....acquisition/pick-up/find/buy/score

....not sure Jim, but try Jerry for Clevedon Steam.......he may be able to assist....... Derek

https://www.clevedonsteam.co.uk/

jpdenver · « **Reply #2 on:** August 10, 2020, 11:41:37 pm »

Thanks Derek,
Jerry got back to me but he does not have actual copies of the documentation.
However - as it turn out the remainder of the set turned up so I am now in proud
possession of an - OLD-NEW-IN-BOX Cheddar Proteus Horizontal Steam Plant w/ABC.
From the looks of it, never fired, never run, every gear bright and shiny.

A few marks on the end of the driveshaft - might have been from a test fit.

OK, I am gloating. But I consider this a real rare find.

Thanks for putting up with me.
Jim

kinmel · « **Reply #3 on:** August 11, 2020, 08:25:36 am »

Mayhemer KNO3 posted in April 2019 that he had a copy of the Proteus manual........ https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=62870.0

logoman · « **Reply #4 on:** August 13, 2020, 06:41:36 pm »

https://www.flickr.com/photos/69998588@N00/albums/72157622541165244/with/5657343941/

jpdenver · « **Reply #5 on:** August 13, 2020, 06:47:14 pm »

Thanks everyone.

I got one for a Gemini and a Proteus from KNO3.
Does anyone have one for a Pintail?
BTW - flickr requires an account. But thanks for looking anyway.
Regards,Jim

KNO3 · « **Reply #6 on:** August 13, 2020, 06:55:38 pm »

Jim, you've got a pristine Proteus there. And with the automatic boiler control as a bonus. What a lucky find!
I hope the manuals will come in handy.

jpdenver · « **Reply #7 on:** August 14, 2020, 03:06:22 am »

Thanks for your help.
I am now looking for a hull to put it in.
Jim

KNO3 · « **Reply #8 on:** August 15, 2020, 12:07:17 pm »

It must be a larger hull, since the plant is very heavy. What kind of boat would you like to build?

DBS88 · « **Reply #9 on:** August 15, 2020, 11:14:23 pm »

May I suggest looking at a Thames Steam Launch and a Royal Navy Picket boat. I have both the Kingston Mouldings Thames Steam launch hull with the additional canopy, plus the drawings, new in the box, unstarted, that would show off the engine and boiler, or, a Kingston Mouldings Royal Navy Picket Boat with plans, 4 inch steam prop, that has been started. This picket boat was intended to have a proteus plant installed, the plant is now going to another project. They are both approx 4feet long and are fine looking classic boats that would make good use of your proteus, the hull for Thames Launch can be seen at
https://www.loyalhannadockyard.com/ under kits - Kingston mouldings.
Good luck selecting a hull, look forward to seeing the finished project

SteamboatPhil · « **Reply #10 on:** August 16, 2020, 01:13:52 pm »

Here is my thames steam launch, the original was built by John Thornycroft for his father (although the original had a steel hull)

jpdenver · « **Reply #11 on:** August 16, 2020, 05:37:10 pm »

Thanks for the responses.
I have a test boat called The Greyhounds Revenge (the build is on this forum) - and
She is based upon a Kingston Mouldings - Lady Margaret
Robin built the hull for me and pre-tinted the GRP since I told him
it was going to have a lot of maintenance on it over time and did not want to worry about paint jobs.
Right now it is powered by a D10 with electric feed pump (still being adjusted) -

Here is a test - you can see where it has a lot of open cockpit deck space. -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HUp3emHNxtk&t=81s

So after I get tired of the D10 - I may switch to the Proteus, unless another hull project pops up.

Regards to all -
Stay safe.
Jim

jpdenver · « **Reply #12 on:** September 14, 2020, 12:11:31 am »

I finally got around to test running the Proteus.

What a delightful little engine, Makes me wish I kept the Gemini too! Hope Bernard enjoys it, whenever he gets it.
Here is a couple of minutes of her test run.
https://youtu.be/L1p9yrz4NIw

She was very stiff at the beginning, but just needed a little oil in the right places.
If the other two new Proteus owners (from my auctions) read this, make sure you pay attention
to the feed pump, and at least make it re-cycle to keep from burning it up.

Regards,

Jim

KNO3 · « **Reply #13 on:** September 14, 2020, 01:03:07 am »

Runs very smooth indeed. Have you found a suitable boat?
I think thins one would be the perfect plant for a powerful tugboat.

jpdenver · « **Reply #14 on:** September 19, 2020, 03:15:56 am »

Thanks for the responses.

Raphael - if you see this,
On my You-tube page you commented on the Proteus trial run.
and I think you said that your proteus pump was not working.
Mine was working just fine, with the bypass valve open, the water
pumped back into the tank, You can see this when I pick up the tube and show it flowing.
When I closed the valve, the water pumped into the boiler.

The reason I am bringing this up is not to just boast about it,
but instead to see if I can help. When I was handling the estate
sale last month, I came across an engineering drawing for the pump,
and was wondering if it might help you with your problem.
I will say that I have seen it mentioned in a number of places
that it is very important to keep the pump actually pumping water
in order to keep it from running dry and ruining it.

So - have you opened up the pump and looked at the
nitrile balls that are used inside?

The drawing is a large format, I will get it scanned and post it here.

Regards,
Jim

rhavrane · « **Reply #15 on:** September 19, 2020, 08:51:00 am »

Bonjour James,
Thank you for your feed back I have change the metal balls by nitrile ones, also changed the check valve and set the screws to let the balls have a minimum of movment.
I think that the problem comes from the piston rod which is possibly worn in the pump as I does not deliver enough pressure drain the water then push it into the boiler.
When te water comes above the pump : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Z6nuByugp0
At the pump level: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WpoyLn94_FE

KNO3 · « **Reply #16 on:** September 19, 2020, 11:53:52 am »

Hello Raphael, does the pump loose water at the seals around the piston? If not, then a worn piston is unlikely.

Nitrile balls are very good and should seal perfectly.

What can often happen with small pumps is that air can gather in the pipes. Because air is compressible, the pump might not move enough volume to suck enough water in to push the air out. You would need to air out the pipes. This can be done by removing the top screw from the clack valve on Cheddar units. Let the pump run until water comes out through the open clack valve, then close it off again with the screw.

rhavrane · « **Reply #17 on:** September 19, 2020, 01:20:43 pm »

Bonjour Calin,
I will follow your opinion and open clack valve to see if water comes. As there is no leak at he pump level, perhaps should I also tighten a little more the balls.
Besides this, I do not finf that an horizontal pump is the best idea for a direct driven one whish is very fast. And my machine is quite old...

KNO3 · « **Reply #18 on:** September 19, 2020, 05:26:44 pm »

You should also check if the replacement nitrile ball valves are not too small. Perhaps they have too much lateral play, and maybe then they do not always return to their seat.

jpdenver · « **Reply #19 on:** September 19, 2020, 06:05:57 pm »

Here is a drawing as old as your engine!but maybe it will help.

rhavrane · « **Reply #20 on:** September 19, 2020, 08:16:16 pm »

Bonjour,
Many thanks to both of ypu I amsure that yout ideas and drawings will help me

[size=78%] [/size]

jpdenver · « **Reply #21 on:** September 19, 2020, 11:09:06 pm »

Hey -

We may all be in lock-down, but what are friends for?
Take care,Jim

rhavrane · « **Reply #22 on:** September 20, 2020, 07:29:27 pm »

Bonjour James,
I wish I will be able one day to meet all the steam passionate who have kindly spent some time and ideas to help me

jpdenver · « **Reply #23 on:** September 20, 2020, 08:43:28 pm »

Me too, my friend, me too.
Stay safe,Jim

DBS88 · « **Reply #24 on:** September 21, 2020, 11:56:13 am »

Jim many thanks for posting the drawing of the pump and its settings.
I recently had to reset the ball valves on my Cheddar Puffin engine pumps, this is what I found. I stupidly forgot that when disassembling the lock nut and nut that they both needed to be undone at the same time to maintain the settings. Anyway, what I found was that the Nitrile balls were larger by 0.004" than they should have been, perhaps they swell over time? any way they were not moving freely in the gage assembly. So replaced them with new Nitrile balls. When setting them up I used a steel ball, screwed the fitting into place until I could feel the ball, then measured the distance from the back of the pump to the front of the fitting with a micrometer, then undid the fitting by 0.010" for the pump inlet and made a note of the new dimension, however by experimentation found the pumps delivered a higher flow rate if the outlet was set at 0.020". Once the fitting had been backed off by the required amount 0.010" the fitting was undone and the steel ball replaced by the Nitrile ball, the fitting was then replaced and screwed in and checked it was at the new list before tightening the lock nut. From the Puffin instructions it appears ram seals may also need to be replaced from time to time. Hope the sharing this experience is of assistance to you and others in setting up these pumps.

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Author Topic: Cheddar Proteus (Read 10378 times)