Topic: Cutty Sark (Read 51254 times)

dlancast · « **Reply #75 on:** January 23, 2022, 01:21:34 am »

more.

dlancast · « **Reply #76 on:** January 30, 2022, 12:09:14 am »

more plates.....

Dennis

Martin (Admin) · « **Reply #77 on:** January 30, 2022, 09:36:50 am »

Looking good! ..... how are the frustration tolerance levels holding up?

dlancast · « **Reply #78 on:** January 30, 2022, 02:15:52 pm »

Tks Martin, the frustrations are swallowed up in determination. I can easily see an other month in this part and I long to flip the hull and begin deck details. I must not forget to drill my two mounting holes for base supports. Cheers! Dennis

Mark T · « **Reply #79 on:** January 30, 2022, 03:05:31 pm »

Dennis that really is looking great mate

dlancast · « **Reply #80 on:** January 31, 2022, 05:51:27 am »

Tku sir. i have been thinking. I want to try a technique on my copper to finish. I want to lightly brush black paint and wipe, to give a antique look. Then I want to brush on a clear, satin finish varnish (two coats) to seal. Has anyone ever tried something like this? Dennis

warspite · « **Reply #81 on:** January 31, 2022, 10:35:45 am »

I have not checked my victory and sovereign for a while, but, I painted the hull with Humbrol copper enamel to simulate this effect and then as they were going to be immersed in water, coated with a clear seal to prevent them going green, when I did sovereign she started going green not long after putting the first coat on so a coat of copper enamel again and did a couple of clear coats - last time I checked she was still copper coloured, though to be fair she hasn't been in water for a while.

dlancast · « **Reply #82 on:** February 03, 2022, 01:06:31 am »

Rub strakes are installed. One at the waterline, the other, below the waterline. I couldn't find them on the Cutty Sark as she is today, but did find some old pictures showing them on the hull. There were years that her rub strake at the waterline was painted white and then was painted black. I chose to include both of them and paint them black. Campbells plans or Underhill's plans do not show them at all. As I go along on this build, it is understood that the Cutty Sark went through numerous changes through her life. I am trying to depict her as she may have looked in the same year she was launched. 1870. Campbells plans depict that. My choice to add rub strakes. Cheers, Dennis

dlancast · « **Reply #83 on:** February 03, 2022, 08:16:21 pm »

I had my first mate help me to take a couple of pictures of my technique for applying copper plates to hull. I first use fine needle nosed twezers to place the plate to the hull after applying CA, then with the twezers closed, I depress the plate against the hull to make contact and then press the point around the surface of the plate to help even things out and also to leave small depressions in the copper that mimic rivets. Then I use my special smoothing tool (a wood dowel with a slant cut into the end) to depress the plate firmly down onto the hull, works for me. A side note, the plates I am using are several years old, left over from another plating job. These plates are blank. I have yet to find blank plates available for sale, What I have found is the right size, but have rivets already depressed and they are much to big for this scale and cannot be rubbed out. I know that if I run out of these old ones, I can use copper self-adheasive tape cut to size.. Dennis

dlancast · « **Reply #84 on:** February 03, 2022, 08:17:05 pm »

more,

dlancast · « **Reply #85 on:** February 11, 2022, 01:43:02 am »

Coppering is now completed. Took about a month and a half, eight hours a day, 1,650 plates, 6mmx12mm. I ran out of blank plates and finished with self adhesive copper tape, cutting each plate to size. But, after using that tape, I wish I had done the entire hull with it. No glue residue to mess with and holds the copper tight to the hull. Lesson learned. Attached False Keel to bottom. My research says that all the clippers used False Keels. Campbells plans also show same. So, I went ahead and did it. The keel is attached over the copper plated main keel and then varnished. False Keels were sacrificial and protected the main keel and copper when grounding. Replaced when worn out. Ok, on to deck fittings.. finally. Dennis

dlancast · « **Reply #86 on:** February 11, 2022, 01:43:31 am »

more.

dlancast · « **Reply #87 on:** February 11, 2022, 01:43:57 am »

more.

derekwarner · « **Reply #88 on:** February 11, 2022, 02:22:45 am »

Dennis....have you read or researched in how did they sealed the copper plates to the wooden planking...to keep the sea worm

out?

Could they have used a tar/bituminous type goop?..in addition to nailing?

Derek

dlancast · « **Reply #89 on:** February 11, 2022, 05:33:25 am »

Hi Derek, Yes, tar for sure, but also I read where they used a mat like material that was impregnated with tar and something else that went down under the copper plates to help keep worms out. Here is an excerpt from China Tea Clippers by George Campbell, "The copper plates could be nailed directly to the planking over a tar or pitch coating, or in the best work, over tarred paper or felt about 1/4 in. thick." Great book on this subject and worth having in one's library of ship history. Cheers! Dennis

warspite · « **Reply #90 on:** February 11, 2022, 10:25:13 am »

superb work

dlancast · « **Reply #91 on:** February 12, 2022, 08:57:42 pm »

Working on the Forehatch. Making covering boards, 10mm long with eyebolts. Great fun.

Dennis

dlancast · « **Reply #92 on:** February 12, 2022, 08:58:22 pm »

more.

Mark T · « **Reply #93 on:** February 13, 2022, 01:11:43 pm »

Fantastic work

Its a pleasure seeing this ship come together!

dlancast · « **Reply #94 on:** February 16, 2022, 01:01:53 am »

Making up the Deadeyes and wire lanyards to be mounted to the pinrails. Lanyards will be mounted to the backside of the piinrail before attaching to the bulwarks. Then the bottom end of the lanyard will be fixed to the bulwark and if I can do it at this scale, attach a copper plate at the bottom. Belaying pins will be painted and mounted to pinrail, also before mounting. Of note, the dead eyes and lanyards are painted black. The edges around the deadeye will be painted white to simulate the iron collars on the real ship. Scale too small for me to make up metal clamps and bolt to lanyards. This will look fine, I hope. Very tedious work under magnification. Oh the joy!

Dennis

dlancast · « **Reply #95 on:** February 16, 2022, 01:02:27 am »

more.

dlancast · « **Reply #96 on:** February 16, 2022, 01:03:02 am »

Main hatch installed.

dlancast · « **Reply #97 on:** February 16, 2022, 10:33:42 pm »

Foredeck pinrails about ready to mount to bulwarks. Dennis

dlancast · « **Reply #98 on:** February 16, 2022, 10:34:52 pm »

more.

dlancast · « **Reply #99 on:** February 17, 2022, 08:42:19 pm »

Darn, I better get my terminology correct, sorry about that

. Attached pic shows the stbd Pin Rail installed. Components starting from the Main Rail, Pin Rail with Dead Eye, stropped (painted white), with the Shank going down and attached at bottom to the Palm that is against the bulwark. The white supports are the Bulwark Support Stanchions. I think that about covers it for terminology, now I feel better

. Next is to install the Port Pin Rail. Both of these support the Foremast. Also working on the Main Mast Pin Rails. Cheers, Dennis

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Author Topic: Cutty Sark (Read 51254 times)