STARTING IN MODEL SPEED BOATS

STARTING IN MODEL SPEED BOATS
By Martin Davis Additional thoughts on starting model boats by Guy Bagley....! " I consider myself an expert to the matter of building model speed boats, on the principal that if we learn from our mistakes, then I'm the worlds smartest guy!" Martin Davis -every single day!

Starting out	Electric Motors	IC engines	Boat types
So you want to build yourself a nice model sports boat?
Do you know where to start? Well you could go to a model shop and ask the questions that I first asked, such as... How much will that model boat cost to put on the water? Have you got anything cheaper? How hard is it to build? (The kit has 2,000 parts!) Two channel radio? Do you mean stereo? I'm buying it for my kid, really!
MY STORY
My dealings with model boats began at Whitestone pond, Hampstead Heath, NW London, a historic spot for model boats. I always wanted my Dad to stop whenever driving pass so I could watch them. I recall one time I tried my own clockwork boat on said pond but it didn't work a lick as rust had caused premature rigormortis of the motor from previously testing the boat in the bath. Now I'm all grown up I have my own flotilla of radio controlled speed boats. One of these days, I'm going to make a pilgrimage to Whitestone pond to inspire other youngsters to have a go at boat modelling.
I didn't have much to do with model boats for many years after that, mainly due to my lack of pocket money, then some years ago my interest was rekindled when a friend informed me of an advert in a local sweetshop for a radio controlled model plane. "Sounds like a good idea", I said to myself, out of earshot of my wife. After a few days I had bought a poorly built trainer type aeroplane but with a new two channel radio (Acoms 27MHz) and new ENYA 3.5cc aero engine. "This'll never fly", I said to myself as I handed over the cash and carried away the bits in a box. I decided the plane was beyond help and was eventually laid to rest in my wheely bin, however the radio and engine etc. were in good condition and could be utilized in another type of model a boat for example. (Model boat can use the same type of radio and the engine was later part exchanged for a water-cooled version.) I chose a model boat as at the time radio controlled cars were all the rage and I wanted to do something a little different. A boat would give me a good excuse to spend time in a my lovely park (Ferry Meadows, Peterborough) in the green grass, next to a silvery lake amongst the wonderful wildlife and sunny skies above. What it's really like..... I'll tell you later.
I then had to decide what sort of boat I wanted. A really fast IC (Internal Combustion) boat was the most appealing but I changed my mind on the advice of Ron Dean, proprietor of the local DEAN'S MARINE workshop. "Electric boats are a lot less hassle than IC boats, just switch them on and go". DEAN's MARINE make a large range of warships launches and merchant ships but I wanted something faster. So I set about looking for my first fast electric boat kit. My wife and I thought "One boat and that would be it" ... WRONG!
FIRST THINGS FIRST
Best thing to do is to start with a simple kit where most of the work has been done for you, leave the glamorous and high performance kits till later. I've seen and heard of many people starting off with high hopes only to become despondent or fed up when they realize the scale of the task, ( pun intended). Electric boats are generally simpler than IC boats so make a better first choice of kit. Once you can see what model boating is all about you can then improve your first model, add further detail to it (no model is ever really complete), make it go faster or build a second model you were you can now become more ambitious!
But before buying anything, get yourself some reading material. Some good books are Model Boats by John Cundell, Power Boat Modelling by David Thomas, Advanced R/C boat modelling by John Finch and of course Model Boat magazine every month. Some of the model manufactures catalogues are well worth getting hold off especially the Robbe and Graupner ones which are as big as doorsteps but contain loads of interesting stuff about all types of models. Also worth looking out for are the RS components, Maplin and Tandy catalogues and websites as these have every electronic component & tool imaginable and quite a few unimaginable ones as well!
Your nearest model shop is the best place to purchase your first kits as you can see the kit "in the flesh" so-to-speak and you can call upon the retailers experience and local knowledge. I used to do a lot of driving as part of my job so I got get good idea what's available where and who has the best deal, it's worth comparing prices. These day, finding out about most kits can be found about on the web. The model magazines have very useful adverts and reviews that let you know what's available. Model shows come round several times a year where if you're real lucky, you may pick up a bargain. At shows always make sure you get a proper receipt and an address in case of problems or you just want to buy more goods of them at a later date. I should point out at this point that sports boats are not a gold bond investment and on the second hand market they rarely reach their original cost price but you can't put a price on enjoyment and sense or achievement can you.
Next thing to do is locate the nearest model boat club and find out when and where they meet. The members of the local club are a good source of information and always welcome newcomers. You may have search for the right club if you want to do a specific type of modelling as some clubs don't cater for IC boats. Don't be too surprised if you find out that some of us modellers are a little "eccentric" as we tend to spend a lot of time alone hunched over our latest masterpiece. Sometimes we just talk too much, just 'take us with a pinch of salt', one day, if you catch the 'bug', you'll be just the same!
WHAT WILL YOU NEED
There are just a few things you will need, they are... 1. A sack of money. Have you seen the price of some kits!!!. 2. All the spare time that can't really spare. 3. An understanding wife with a good sense of humour (She must think it's funny when you've emptied the bank account). 4. A wife and family that doesn't know how much you REALLY earn. 5. Somewhere to work - a French polished dining room table is ideal. 6. A workshop equipped with all the latest machine tools. 7. A drinking problem. 8. Wellies high enough to wade to the deepest part of your lake. 9. A spare room to store your boats (centrally heated). 10. A good first aid kit (second and third aid may also be required). 11. Patience. 12. Sedative tablets. 13. The brain the size of a planet. 14. More Patience. 15. A good book of excuses for explaining why things don't work, where the house keeping has gone, why the radio wasn't switched on when you put the boat in, why it sank, etc, etc. Unfortunately I have none of the above and yet still I manage to build and run my model boats. Next start inquiring of all your relatives, friends, acquaintances and relative friends of acquaintances. Find out what job they do, what skills they have, what workshop equipment they have or have access to, how rich they are, what shop they work in, what discount they can get etc, I'll bet you'll ask them sooner or later.
YOUR FIRST KIT
Once you have decided on the kit you want and given all your hard earned cash to the model shop, the next thing to do is sneak it into the house during the middle of the night without your wife (or husband) finding out. Later, when asked you can say "I've had it for ages!!" Well that's what my wife says when I see a new dress! Open your box of goodies and lay everything out on a table and check that everything that should be there is there. To do this you'll need to find the parts list. All good manufactures provide a parts listing, if not, you'll have to work out the parts list from the plans sheet. If it doesn't have a plan, you should have bought a better kit!
The quality of plans and instructions varies greatly from manufacturer to manufacturer, some only throw in a few bad photo copied sheets. The best plans I've come across are in the German Robbe kits, these have a full size plan with cross sections and a stage by stage construction book with complete plan references and even colour photos on the box. Sometimes you get a extra free giggle from the German to English translations. When I had the spare room I used to pin the plan to the wall behind me and the work bench so that I have to get up to check measurements etc, it's the only physical exercise I got.
Back to your kit, identify each part with the list or plan, check it's all there and examine parts for flaws. Check the wooden parts are of good quality and are not split or anything. Look at each part until you are familiar with it so you know where and how it fits in the model. As you look at each part try to work out how and when it needs to be fitted, what glue or fixing is required and if access is required to it for maintenance once in place.
If everything is there then make a list of the bits you'll need to complete the model and buy them as you need them or can afford them, fittings, stand, etc. Plan your complete model from the moment you decide to buy it. What radio equipment, motor, speed controller, batteries, engine, fuel tank etc. Buying most things at once can be useful as a retailer might be more inclined to offer you a "complete deal" price. Only buy what you need as I've got kits, motors, engines, fuel tanks, tools, etc. etc. all over the place that seemed like a good buy while in the shop. Do you know anyone that wants to buy some unused model gear? One careful owner!
BUILDING
To support my boats while working on them I use a MRM plastic glider stand that I got it for a fiver from Pardon Mill models in Harlow. This stand allows almost total access to the hull while building and it suits any shape of hull and had a useful tool tray underneath. Most kits still do not come with a storage stand, for a few extra quid the parts for even a temporary wood stand could be included which would be most beneficial. Each boat will needs it's own boat stand, for storage or start the engine on IC boats. Most plans provide you with the outlines for a suitable stand so you can build your own, unfortunately when I start work on a new boat the stand is not the most interesting bit to start with but it is the most necessary.
Choice of glue is MOST important. Get a lot of advice on this subject. A wrong choice could be instrumental in reproducing a kit of parts again if you bash your boat. For general use there are lots of Superglues around. Superglue accelerators are useful but tend to make the joint a little brittle. For plastic ABS boats the best glue is Stabilit Express, an epoxy type adhesive. Stabilit is really good stuff but cost an-arm-and-a-leg! There are a lot of other epoxy type glues around, Araldite and Devcon come to mind, check the instructions for application particularly for use on ABS plastic. On fibre glass, any of the multi boats suppliers stock a number of useful resins based mixes but you can also use two part epoxy and body work repair kits from car accessory shops. For wood Cascamite is usually the first choice followed by white PVA water resistant glues. Car body filler is also useful as a glue as it holds to most hard materials and doesn't need a flat surface.
BUILD 'GETABILITY'
Bits are going to wear out on your boat and it IS going to be bumped, run up the bank, rammed by other boats, attacked by wildlife, bounced around in the back of the car, dropped by the wife while dusting, etc, etc. If you build strong, your boat will survive a long time. If you also build it so that the internals can be easily removed then maintenance will not be a laborious chore. In the planning stage, I aim to be able to remove any part of the engine, running gear, radio, rudder etc, with a screwdriver or spanner within 10 minutes. You can't always achieve this but it's what you should trying to achieve. When it comes to the radio, the more time spent on the installation means less time laid up in dry dock for repairs. The radio layout should be such that it's easy to remove the bits for servicing. Never glue servos in if possible, screw fitting is much more desirable. Tie up the wiring neatly into bundles with signal and power cables separate. On more complicated installations a label and colour coded diagram should be made up for the wiring so that faults can be more readily traced after years of happy boating.
Murphy law . 1: If something can go wrong it will. 2: The more critical the part is, the greater the chance that it will fail. 3 : The less likely it is to go wrong, the quicker it will go wrong. One of the most annoying things that can happen is something breaking or failing before the boat even get on the water. If you think "that'll do", nine times out of ten it won't. If you are going to make your own parts then use the Victorian engineering principle, 'make it ten times stronger than it possibly needs to be'. Sometimes it's simpler, quicker and cost effective to buy commercial parts because if your home made part fails you may have go to out and buy one anyway.
While building, keep thinking of the boat as a whole, I've built parts for boats and then found that it won't work with something else eg. engine mount and exhaust can't fit through the deck opening or you can't get to some screws once the deck is glued down. Plan ahead, measure everything out on the plan, use paper templates and make small pilot holes before drilling the full size ones to check things will correctly line up. The less flash gimmicks you have on the boat, the less there is to go wrong, don't make things unnecessarily complicated just for the sake of it. Buy good engines, ones that you can get spares for. Don't always take a shopkeeper word that engine parts ten-a-penny, if he's trying to sell his "Supercharged OkiCoky 5.3.2cc" engine at a special price.
FINISHED?
How are you going to finish the boat? Are you going to be happy with the standard finish that may come in the way of decals in the kit or are you going to go for individualism? Do you want your boat to look the same as every other boat built from this kit or something more individualistic? For me, designing and applying the paint-job has sometimes taken longer than building the boat, in one case taking at least four times as long. Some parts are better pre-painted before fitting such at crew figures and cabins. The overall appearance is how a lot people will judge your work, but if you can get good performance from it also, then you've produced a winner.
KEEPING ABOVE THE WAVES
You can never have too much buoyancy in a speed boat. Fast speed boats splash a lot of water around and quite a bit can find it's way inside the hull. Place buoyancy in both the bow and stern of your boat and in the detachable cover or hatch. With buoyancy at both ends then most of the boat will remain above water if disaster strikes, the boat will also be easier and quicker to recover. Plumbers insulation foam in cans from DIY shops is very good buoyancy and also strengthens the bows. Great care must be taken when filling your boat with this stuff as the foam will expand many times it's original volume with a vengeance and pushes aside all before it. I've ballooned the front of two of my boats by thinking the foam had stopped expanding only to find it had only slowed down. Always leave a large hole if filling behind a bulkhead to allow the access foam and gases to escape. To fill the bow, stand the boat on it's nose so the hole in the front bulkhead is uppermost, vice versa for the stern. A week is a safe bet that the foam has stopped expanding at room temperature. By the way, once this stuff touches anything you'll NEVER get it off. You can also use different things for buoyancy such as bubble wrap, expanded polystyrene, packing "Quavers", air bags etc. but only expanding foam gives you extra strength but at the cost of extra weight. Never trust a sealed air tight compartment as adequate buoyancy, they always seem to leak. At the lake, keep a constant watch out for impending doom as a little carelessness might see all that money you couldn't really afford, heading for the bottom.
RADIO IN CONTROL?
ENSURE YOUR RADIO WORKS PERFECTLY. DON'T RUN DODGY (unsafe) BOATS.
The radio is the most important part of the model boat believe it or not, but some people give it less than the required attention. Install and test everything at home first and then re-check everything again on the lake when no one else is about. Don't switch on without checking the band is clear, Check the club peg-board or ask other boaters what band they are on and if busy wait your turn. I Failed to do this a little while ago, I nearly ended up with a black eye! If a fast boat breaks loose from it's master, they can do a lot of damage. Don't take chances, PLAY SAFE.
Some modellers remove the return spring from the throttle stick, this can be useful during long races, personally I don't as I prefer the boat to stop or slow to an idle if I accidentally drop the transmitter... in the water. Yes, I did once, in my early days. I was bringing a boat in, I put the control on the jetty and reached down for the boat and the transmitter fell in the water, the boat went mad, shot forward, broke my legs in 22 places and had to be amputated just below the neck!
Links from servos must never be sloppy, they never work properly and are unreliable. Metal to metal joints always cause radio interference and drive your servos crazy, use plastic cleveses. The rudder usually puts the most stress on a servo and on really fast boats, high power servos could be required. Use two links to your rudder tiller arm where possible which will provide extra strength and safety. I've tried both plastic and steel snakes or Bowden cables, I've found metal ones are more reliable. Use snakes and cables in pairs, i.e. in pull-pull mode as snakes aren't very good at pushing. Water-proof servos are a good idea if you can afford them, but a lot of people use a water tight radio box especially if using an electronic speed controller.
I always use NiCad batteries in my radio gear as after two or three re-charges the batteries have paid for themselves. All my boats have the receiver batteries soldered together, covered in heat shrink plastic and plug into the receiver with a charging jack and on/off switch. The subject of electric motors, IC engines, radios and batteries will be covered in more detail - HERE.
BURNING YOUR FINGERS ....ONLY ONCE !

You'll need to read up on the safe use of certain things such as Superglue, nicads, engines and two-stroke fuel because although these are safe they require respectful handling. For example, don't use Superglue and then pick your nose, or smoke while fuelling up your boat. Quite seriously, Superglue contains cyanide and two stroke fuel burns with an almost invisible flame. Be cautious of any propeller because even a cheap electric motor can rev at 10,000 RPM and can take a finger off without slowing down. IC engines get very hot, if you forget, an exhaust pipe will quickly remind you. Work in a well ventilated area when using any chemicals. Have a first-aid kit handy at all times, at home and by the lake and keep a fire extinguisher in your workshop or shed just in case you have a bad day. Common sense is not all that common so just a second or two of extra thought will save you time, blood, money or all three.
CRAFTSMANSHIP.
The more time and effort, NOT MONEY, that you put into your model the better the results will be. It will go quicker, look better and will require less maintenance. During all stages of construction test the quality of your work, is all the running gear securely locked down including the fuel tank, battery and silencer etc? It doesn't pay to leave anything loose. Do the servo links work smoothly without binding, are all the nuts and bolts tight, are the grub screws thread-locked in, is the deck joint sealed all the way round, are the radio and electrical connections 100%, will the hatch float if it comes adrift, is the radio box watertight? etc. etc. There are so many things you need to be sure about so think objectively and plan for the worst. To help you, keep in mind how much you have already spent on it! When you have finished everything, polish all parts of your sports boat's hull to a mirror finish thus minimizing the water drag. This will make your boat go faster. Use Brasso on all the metal work and T-Cut ( car bodywork paint cutter ) on the hull. Blobs of glue, a bad paint job and rough surfaces on the hull will rob you of speed and control.
A FEW THINGS TO KEEP IN MIND
Most model boats will fit in the bath so nearly everything can be tested at home before venturing down to the lake. Just a point, wives don't like husbands starting IC boats in the bathroom! Don't mistake belligerence or confidence for true expertise. In my experience, hydrodynamic theory is almost unheard of in the world of fast model boats and very seldom quoted or practiced, more a case of suck-it-and see and " It won didn't it! ". Don't be talked in to something you don't really want to build but do listen to experience. If it an't broke, don't try to fix it. Leave bad enough alone! K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Stupid! Better a bad day by the lake than a good day at work! Don't dump fuel into the water. Don't leave litter behind when you go home.
HAVING FUN
Model boats are meant to be fun but some people take it far too seriously. They can get very upset when they loose a race or a competition on a judges decision or because another competitor crashed into you. Model boats, whether fast or slow, are always at some sort of risk, you know that. Really it not that serious, even if it took you 10 years to build at a cost of £10,000. Unfortunately, there are much more important things in life to get upset about.

There are many different aspects of model boating and we all choose our which area we like. It's really narrow minded to say someone's else's boat isn't a real model boat just because it's something we personally wouldn't have touched with a barge pole. Look at their boat and appreciate the work that they have put into it, offer advice if you know what you're talking about and lend a hand if they need it. At club level, all aspects of boat modelling should be encouraged. Let us all enjoy our hobby both as individuals and as a group. One day sooner or later when you take the boat home with expensive damage or in a plastic bag, try to remember the whole object of the hobby was a relaxing pastime. And dispute what my wife and kids think, my model boats ARE NOT TOYS!!!
EPILOGUE
It has been said that model boats is the lowest form of radio control modelling because "if it floats, it works!" Model cars demand good driving skills and lightning reactions to stay on the track. Getting model planes in the air is hard enough, landing them in one piece is almost impossible. Model helicopters pilots need to be real helicopter pilots! Model boats and sports boats in particular are so easy in comparison to other r/c disciplines, it's slightly embarrassing. They go forwards, turn left and right, some even go backwards and there's a very good chance that you'll take it home with you in one piece.... but I think they're great. At the last count I've owned and run twenty eight boats and I'm still building. Please buy one off me before the wife throws me out of HER house!
With thanks...
A lot of the motivation for these articles / pages came from a certain Kapitain Bill Thomas who wrote an excellent series of article ages ago in the Sept/Nov '84 issue of Model Boats. Therein he describes the trials and tribulations of scratch building a model submarine and the constant need of a good sense of humour. This is one of the best article about model boats that I have ever read and still read it again from time to time for a laugh and encouragement to keep going when everything has gone wrong. Love to meet you one day Kapitain Thomas. - *NOW on Mayhem! - (Here)* Well all of this is just my opinion, but what do I know!
Further surfing... Mayhem Technical Pages www.gettingstartedinrc.com/boats/index.asp
TOP Back to Technical Home