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[essex2visuvesi]

After buyng a cheapie RTR model for the kids last summer I decided to have a go at building my own.

I wanted somethng that would be good for a first time boat builder, tho I will admit I have build RC planes in the past and the Phantom seems to fit the bill perfectly.


Its been pretty straightforward so far tho I have to admit that I didnt taper the planks, but it seems to have come out ok and as they will be covered in mahogany vener I dedcided not to start again and just carry on






I am now ready to start smoothing and sanding the hull ready for the veneer layer

Its been very enjoyable so far and im pleased with the results

Any comments suggestions welcome

[xilsoe]

It looks good!

I had my Phantom in the water for the first time last Saturday. I am very happy about how it runs.

I replaced the propeller shaft into one from Graupner. The one supplied seems not so OK
Then I reinforced the rudder mount. I didn't think the support from the keel was sufficient
I recommend installing the RC gear before mounting the deck

Jørgen

[essex2visuvesi]

I plan to fit the RC gear next but I have some other plans first

As the deck is fitted directed to the top I'm thinking of running some spare planking along the top edge of the hull to thicken it.  my thoughts are that this will give a better join between the hull and the deck

I have coated the inside of the hull with a few layers of waterproof woodglue to seal the inside, I'm think of going belt and braces and applying a couple of coats of resin on the inside also

I have continued sanding a little more of the hull today and it feels nice and smooth but there are some small areas where the wood has broken away leaving small holes/dips in the hull.  I have some super smooth automotive bodyfiller (its used to skim the top layer of normal car filler after sanding) and was wondering as I'm laying a mahogany veneer over the top do I need to have the base layer of planking perfect?

[steamboatbob]

yup you do 

you need the 1st planking to be fairly smooth use lots of small amounts of body filler get it smooth then spray an undercoat on and sand it back to show the defects

try to use a good sanding block mine I made from a 12mm thick ply and 12 cork glued together with contact glue and clamped overnight then cut down the next day to my preferred hand size and it makes a surface very flat

just start on your coarse grades 100 grit and work your way through to around a 240 grit and that should be a good start

check out my slomo if you want a bit of info on finishing and veneering
 http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=12951.0

[essex2visuvesi]

yup you do 

you need the 1st planking to be fairly smooth use lots of small amounts of body filler get it smooth then spray an undercoat on and sand it back to show the defects

try to use a good sanding block mine I made from a 12mm thick ply and 12 cork glued together with contact glue and clamped overnight then cut down the next day to my preferred hand size and it makes a surface very flat

just start on your coarse grades 100 grit and work your way through to around a 240 grit and that should be a good start

check out my slomo if you want a bit of info on finishing and veneering
 http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=12951.0

Just a quick question
I understand sandin convex curves with a block but how do you get into the concave ones or do I just have to be careful and just use the paper in my hand?

The Hull has now been skimmed with filler and is awaiting sanding.... looks a bit of a state but should look better once sanded.
Cant do much at the moment as Mrs has an eye infection and has to stay dust free for 2 weeks.  Outside I hear you say! Not when its -18C I wont

[Martin (Admin)]

Topic split on request    - http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=22070.0