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[sunnybob]

I'm refurbing the cabin cruiser, as I did a hasty job last time, but I know nothing about wood veneer.

In the pic you can see that the teak veneer has planking lines drawn (etched?) into it. I want to remove the 50 year old varnish (and the odd paint splatter ) but dont want to lose the planking.
So.... hows it done? cant be sand paper as this planking is very fine.

Ta,
Bob

[boatmadman]

Hi,

I would try fine wet/dry used gently wet with a drop of fairy liquid in it. Use a sanding block at all times, or, get hold of some polymorph ( here: http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=35511&C=Froogle&U=35511&T=Module ) and use it to shape a sanding block to the deck profile.

Go gently until you have a uniform matt surface, then start again with varnish, beginning with 50/50 varnish/white spirit for first coat, then 75/25 for second coat then neat varnish.

Sand down with 1200 or finer wet/dry as above between each coat after allowing plenty of time to harden. You may need 2 or 3 coats of neat varnish to get a good high gloss finish.

Alternately, try a scraper, maybe a razor blade?

Ian

[rockets]

As mentioned above or you could try scraping with a brand new stanley knike blade, taking care not to dig in. Scraping can be very precise if you take care.

Rockets.

[sunnybob]

Hi,

I would try fine wet/dry used gently wet with a drop of fairy liquid in it. Use a sanding block at all times, or, get hold of some polymorph ( here: http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=35511&C=Froogle&U=35511&T=Module ) and use it to shape a sanding block to the deck profile.

Go gently until you have a uniform matt surface, then start again with varnish, beginning with 50/50 varnish/white spirit for first coat, then 75/25 for second coat then neat varnish.

Sand down with 1200 or finer wet/dry as above between each coat after allowing plenty of time to harden. You may need 2 or 3 coats of neat varnish to get a good high gloss finish.

Alternately, try a scraper, maybe a razor blade?

Ian

the deck curve changes as it gets to the bow, no way can I get a single shaped sanding block that will cover all of the decking.

I think a scraper will cause the same problems by removing hi lights.
Looks like its going to have to be very careful sanding, then maybe re-inking the plank lines before resealing.
I hate this part of a job, I have no patience at all when it comes to paint and varnish

[riggers24]

Are you sure they aren't individual planks looking at the grain

[DickyD]

I reckon Riggers might be right, definitely looks like they are planks, the grain isn't the same all over.

[RaaArtyGunner]

the deck curve changes as it gets to the bow, no way can I get a single shaped sanding block that will cover all of the decking.

I think a scraper will cause the same problems by removing hi lights.
Looks like its going to have to be very careful sanding, then maybe re-inking the plank lines before resealing.
I hate this part of a job, I have no patience at all when it comes to paint and varnish

Correct. 
Generally no one sanding block will suffice, you will have to use smaller blocks to suit the curvatures encountered and small scrapers, ie smaller blades, to also suit the curvature.
Steady as she goes and following, Ian (boatmadman) script is good advice. 
Won't be easy but patience is required.

[sunnybob]

I reckon Riggers might be right, definitely looks like they are planks, the grain isn't the same all over.

well, you got me thinking... so heres another close up of the detail. my dad was a bloody good carpenter, but i dont think even he could get that fine a joint.
i think youve seen that each side is different. the centre "kingplank" divides the two sheets.

[Circlip]

Looks like they were originally scribed in followed with a ball pen. You could carefully re-scribe, sand with fine wet and dry or scrape and then redefine with a black ball pen or fine writer and varnish. Practice on scrap first.

  Regards  Ian.