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[Richard M]

I am on my second build so am still learning but here goes.

I wanted to mask up for the waterline on my Robbe Atlantis. Can't use tape as the shallow counter stern means the waterline varies in width a lot and there is also a tight curve at the stern.
I bought some flexible plastic tape off a trade stand at the recent Model Engineering Exhibition in Warwickshire. It is red and hopeless. I reckon it is the tape that butchers use in those little machines for sealing plastic bags.
I then bought some flexible tape from a well known on line supplier of modellers bits and pieces. It is also hopeless. It feels like regular DIY paper masking tape sliced very narrow. Follows the curve OK but allows bleeding.
I have now achieved some success using Tamiya 6mm tape for the straightish section of the hull and Trimline PVC tape for the tight radius, the trouble with the latter is it sticks too well. I notice that someone suggested BECC flexible tape so back to the Credit Card I suppose.
If anyone can shorten my learning curve, me and my boat would be very happy!

Rich

[Brian Roberts]

Difficult I know, but persevere with the Tamiya tape around the tight curves, a bit of patience needed but you'll get there in the end..........I know, I've been there!

There's nothing quite like the Tamiya tape to prevent bleeding.

Brian

[Guy Bagley]

i use the tamiya tapes, if they are too sticky i sometimes stick them to a clean cotton sheet and then remove and apply to the models, it just takes the tack off the tape, it still sticks and so long as care is taken to ensure the edge is well stuck its a good mask edge....

 i have also used low tack  graphics tape- especially good for curves....this tape is low tack and is particually good when used on recently painted surfaces...
i used to get from the london graphics centre- i have no idea if i will ever be able to replace this tape as its been in my workshop for ages, and  its been around a while before that !- i dont even know if it is still made, but i guess when the roll comes to an end i will go hunting....

but if you have an art shop or a graphics type  retailer locally it may be worth asking if they sell low tack film/ graphics tapes..... they are good.....flexible and low tack....

 maybe someone like stavros or others who is a wealth of info  on car repairs and sprays may be able to advise about painting/ masking off too.........

[Circlip]

1" (25mm) wide crepe masking tape, Patience and a sharp scalpel, "Frisk" film and Patience and a sharp scalpel or red tape you've already got, Patience and a sharp scalpel.

  Regards  Ian.

[Liverbudgie2]

As has already been mentioned there is no substitute for taking you time and being careful, also when your in the tight section keep the tape as taught as possible while slowly pressing down on the tape and applying in very small sections, even then the tape may not follow the line you want it to which is were the Sharp blade comes into play.

Much is made of Tamiya tape which is very good but, also very expensive; there are though much cheaper versions which are just as good. I recently bought from the local model shop 18 meters (55 feet approx) of 5.9mm tape for £1.79 which as far as I could tell was about a third of the price of a similar Tamiya product. (www.tristar-model.com)

To reduce the likelihood of paint bleeding under the tape always make sure that the edge of the tape is firmly applied but, even this did not stop it in my case. So, I have taken to applying a thin coat of matt varnish to the edge of the tape and allowing to dry before applying the paint; I also apply the paint so that it does not run into the edge of the tape, i.e. if I’m doing the underwater section of the hull then the model is the right way up and if I’m doing the section above the waterline then is upside down. To date this has worked remarkably well and bleeds seem to be a thing of the past, at least as far as I’m concerned.

LB

[nemesis]

Hello, I have found that even at 6mm it is difficult to radius tight bends, so I cut it to 2mm wide then add another, half lapping the first one and adding again until you can use the broader tape. As with the other mayhemers, patience at times is bitter but its virtues are sweet. Good luck. Oh, it is Tamiya tape that I am on about,                 Nemesis

[triumphjon]

duck sell a flexible masking tape that is designed to follow curves , ive bought a roll for just a pound ( it was in poundland ! ) so far ive found it an exelent product !

[Boy From the Bay]

Would electrical tape do it?

Flexible, low tack, no residue, cheaper than Tamiya tape, won't bleed, and it won't ruck unless overstretched.

[Netleyned]

Spray a light coat of the colour under the mask along the edge and let dry before continuing with the required colour
Any bleed then will be the same colour as the masked area


Ned

[knoby]

Hi Rich, car paint suppliers sell the tape im 3mm size. its known as edging tape. i found its best to get the cheaper ones, not the branded names, as they tend to be less sticky. Also, as Ned says, paimit first coat with the colour you have masked on so any bleed is the same colour. remove the edging tape as soon as you can, other wise it can chip or pull the paint off.
cheers glenn

[HS93 (RIP)]

Ive used this to good effect, the front was very tight and I had to go over the spray rail it worked well


http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Masking-Tape-Micro-Pinstripe-Removable-Channel-2-5-mm-/250708841010?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_BoatEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item3a5f695232

Peter

[Richard M]

Thanks guys for the suggestions. My last efforts were better as I used varnish to seal the edge, almost no bleed, hooray!!

I have more to do so the help is much appreciated.

I have experimented with T Cut on a piece of waste and it brings up a fantastic gloss on the Halfords Aerosols I am using and I have seen the posts regarding using 1500g and 2000g wet and dry to remove the high points. If I can get the same finish as that Fire Tender I will be a happy bunny.

I am building Robbe Atlantis hence want to achieve a gloss finish and mainly for my own benefit have started a blog at http://robbeatlantis.blogspot.com

Cheers
Rich

[Watchleader]

Liverbudgie and others.

Tamiya tape is by and far the best and it is NOT that expensive.
Just don't throw away the original holder from the used tape.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180570548899&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_500wt_949

Not connected to this in any way, other than a satisfied user.

John

[HS93 (RIP)]

one thing you have to do is remove the tape when the paint is wet, or before it starts to form a skin .

Peter

[Liverbudgie2]

Liverbudgie and others.

Tamiya tape is by and far the best and it is NOT that expensive.
Just don't throw away the original holder from the used tape.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180570548899&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_500wt_949

Not connected to this in any way, other than a satisfied user.

John

Tamiya tape is by and far the best and it is NOT that expensive.
Well that's relative isn’t it, if one were to have £100m in the bank then a new Roller would not be that expensive would it!

[brianc]

When you take the overall cost of a build,I have to say that 3 or 4 quid for a roll of Tamiya tape is a pretty good investment.
The paint finish will make or break a build,so why not buy the best?
Personally,I think it`s a no brainer 

[Watchleader]

Whatever you wish to relate it to. 

2 rolls, each 18 metres (36metres) of 6mm Tamiya masking tape for £2.95;  - whilst living on a state pension is NOT expensive.
 
As you say Big Bri  - "No Brainer"

[soldier151]

Hi Guys
Read the post re Masking Tape - my question is "How soon is it necessary to remove the masking tape?
I would have thought it would be better to let the area dry before removal
Soldier151

[pugwash]

Chris - a lot of people advocate taking the tape off almost immediately - If it is fairly quick drying paint I take it off as soon as I am satisfied with the painting,
if it is slower to dry I leave it for a few minutes so that it doesn't pull of any paint as you remove the tape. I never pull the tape away from the model but pull
it down the side of the model so the tape is doubling back on itself hope that makes sense. this system works for me
Geoff

[soldier151]

Hi Geoff,
My goodness, that was quick.   Thanks for the advice.  Will certainly try it.  Thank goodness for ModelMayhem, where you can get answers that QUICK.  Thanks Matey
Chris

[brianc]

Yep,this way works for me too Geoff,I just pull it back on itself slow and steady,works everytime 

[HS93 (RIP)]

if you leave it to fully dry the paint that goes over the masking tape is joined to the paint you want to keep so it has to tear when you remove the tape , that is why you can get a rough edge when you paint to tape.
so if you remove it when wetthe edge can form and will look straight it is not going to run the type of paint we use, also get used to pulling the tape away from the painted area at about 45deg.

Peter

[soldier151]

Hi,
You guys are quick, never expected a reply so soon.  Great work and many thanks.
Thats what ModelMayhem is about!!!!!
Chris aka soldier 151

[justboatonic]

if you leave it to fully dry the paint that goes over the masking tape is joined to the paint you want to keep so it has to tear when you remove the tape , that is why you can get a rough edge when you paint to tape.
so if you remove it when wetthe edge can form and will look straight it is not going to run the type of paint we use, also get used to pulling the tape away from the painted area at about 45deg.

Peter

Aah! That's why I sometimes get a 'step' between one paint and another. I guess if you do remove the tape while the paint is drying is be careful where you put your fingers!

I'd agree about tape removal, always remove the tape at a 45 degree angle. Makes for a cleaner edge and lessens the chance of pulling paint off the model.

[Chuffy]

And also a tip that Stavros posted some time ago, as soon as you have removed the tape, lightly and quickly wipe a clean finger along the painted edge and you will find that the little edge left where the paint meets the masking tape will vanish...........magic! It does need a bit of nerve though the first time you do it, sticking your finger on paint that is still a wee bit soft and actually improving the finish. The trick is however to keep the finger moving over the paint and not stop on the paint, and lift the finger off while still moving.

Paul.