Topic: My Krick Victoria - MkII (Read 116787 times)

muleears · « **Reply #25 on:** April 27, 2012, 10:06:35 pm »

Great pics, thanks! Below are two pics of the middle bulkhead, have I planked it properly around the alignment strips?

I also have a strip formed to the edge of the rudder and it is drying as I type. I hope to get more done tomorrow...

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #26 on:** April 27, 2012, 10:53:55 pm »

Hi there, you appear to have missed out the ledge that the floors sit on, there should be one either side, 5mm x 5mm I think. You may get away with it, the potions are shave/sand a little off the edge of the floor to allow for the thickness of the planking ( probably the easiest) or mark on where the floor support fits and trim the planking. Here's a picture of what it should look like. Incidentally, there is only just enough planking strips for the build, not a lot of room for manoeuvre, I have allready had to get extra to finish off,

muleears · « **Reply #27 on:** April 28, 2012, 03:26:36 pm »

The pic didn't make it, but I realized a couple days ago that I had planked too far down on the center bulkhead. I have already bought some additional mahogany, it was on sale so I bought some not knowing I'd probably need it for the boat. The only catch is that it is about .5mm thicker and 1mm wider (1.5mm X 6mm). If necessary I'll get some more 1x5mm like came with the kit. I'll order some now in fact!

I got the floor supports added to both sides of the center bulkhead and the forward bulkhead, also planked the forward bulkhead and put a strip along the edge of the rudder.

When do you finish all these parts? I assume

I can go ahead and finish both bulkheads before I put them in the boat? I see you installed your combing unfinished, how will you finish that now, with a brush? How about the rubbing strakes, are they done after installation? With a brush also? I would probably cut them to length, sand and finish then attach. But if thats not the way to do it I won't!

I'm going to go install the rudder servo now. Wish me luck!

Thanks again for all the help Nick.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #28 on:** April 28, 2012, 06:09:52 pm »

I varnished as I went along, gave the bulkheads a few coats before fitting, but try not to get too much on the edges so the glue will do its job properly. I fitted the rubbing strakes and shaprd them afterwards, its much easier than trying to round 2 edges of a 1 metre strip on a bench top .I do all my varnishing with a brush, start off by thinning it 50/50 with white spirit and then give the job a few coats, rubbing down between coats. The last few coats can then be done strength, this way the varnish soaks well into the wood.

Regards, Nick.

muleears · « **Reply #29 on:** April 28, 2012, 07:21:22 pm »

Nick,

How did you attach the rudder shaft to the rudder? Epoxy? I don't want conspicuous gobs of glue showing if I can avoid it. Although, at my skill level I shouldn't complain! Also, how did you attach the tiller? The only was I can see is glue. The tiller fits in the slot in the rudder, correct? To me the plans are a little murky about that.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #30 on:** April 28, 2012, 07:56:08 pm »

The rudder stock is fixed with epoxy, then partially covered by the last 2 planks, if you go easy with the glue, all will end up neat and tidy. The tiller is probably one of the last parts to fit, as it will only get in the way and get damaged,from what I can see, it goes in a slot about 1/2" down from the top, I will look into it.No need to actually fit the rudder at this stage, best done when the steam plant is fitted and you are ready for sea trials. Your next major task should be planning your engine bay layout, basically, drop everything into the hull( with the engine room floor loosely in place, shove it all around, line it up and keep playing about with it untill you are happy. If you post some photos while you are doing this, I can offer advice as you go along.

muleears · « **Reply #31 on:** April 28, 2012, 08:06:10 pm »

Thanks for the response Nick. I haven't glued the deck on yet, to scared to! I haven't done anything with the floors either. When I glue on the deck should I then add the two bulkheads I have assembled or should they wait? I have assembled the rudder servo support, when did you glue that in place?

I know the evening is getting on over there, I very much appreciate your advice so I won't bother you any more (until tomorrow maybe!).

Cal

muleears · « **Reply #32 on:** April 29, 2012, 02:33:20 am »

Well, I glued the servo mount in place with CA glue along the bottom and epoxy on the sides. That should hold it! I also got brave and glued the deck on, it is rubber banded, taped and clamped in an attempt to hold it in place with no gaps. Worked pretty well, the largest gaps are at the very bow. When I clamped the stern so there were no gaps it pulled the deck back far enough that there is a gap at the bow. I suppose I can fill it with something, or I guess it could be covered by planking. I'll send a pic in the morning, too tired to now. As always, thanks for the help. I'll start putting the floor in tomorrow and probably do some deck planking. Looks like those first planks that go along the edge of the deck could be a challenge...

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #33 on:** April 29, 2012, 09:38:07 am »

Good Morning Mr Muleears,Do not worry about time diference, I am a bit of a night owl and, I think you are about 5 hours behind me, not that great a difference. As far as the first planks around the deck go, start at the bows and work towards the stern, gluing about 2 inches at a time, take your time and ease the plank around the curves, gluing as you go, use cyano and, if you have any, a little spray of activator. Soaking the bow end of the plank in boiling water helps, and the damp will also activate the superglue, when you get to the stern, leave a half inch overhanging, so after fixing the two side planks down you can mitre in the piece that goes across the stern, leaving a neat join. The forward bulkhead can be fixed in place any time now, but dont glue in the rear one yet as you have to tilt it out of the way to get the engine bay floor in and out, you will probably have to do this a few times when trial fitting the steam plant. I found this set of photos on the net, they are a good reference source, he has made a nice job, but personally, I think he has gone over the top with all the extra planking. Its off to play in my mates model shop for me today, so bye for now.
Keep up the good work,
Nick.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/90322523@N00/sets/72157605148425113/

muleears · « **Reply #34 on:** April 29, 2012, 12:43:30 pm »

I had seen those pics, they are useful and yes, he does plank everything doesn't he! Below are a few pics of where I stand, Fifth is the gap I have at the bow, what can I fill this with? I don't believe I can just plank over it as there is nothing to glue to. Once I get those on, I can plank the rest of the deck, entirely? Or should I wait to finish certain portions? Did you apply your finish as soon as it was planked or did you finish the inside of the boat first. What about the cabin, did you finish the cabin before assembly in the boat or do it after building? Other pics below are where I stand on some of the other parts. Thanks and enjoy your day. I finally got the grass done yesterday but have to do the trimming and change the oil in two cars today. Maybe pick strawberries with the grandkids too, have to check with the missus.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #35 on:** April 29, 2012, 04:48:34 pm »

Greetings from the UK on a cold, wet and windy afternoon. No photos have appeared this end, if you are having trouble uploading them, try reducing the image size with an image editor, 640 x 480 seems to work OK. I had the same problem with some the other day, they were taken with a really good camera, but the file size was ridiculous. As far as the deck goes, you could either put slivers of wood in the gap and sand flush, or fill it with the filler of your choice, makes no difference as it will be hidden beneath the planking.I gave the deck a few coats of varnish to protect it while I was doing other work, as new woodwork is added do the same, then go over it all at the end of the build. Once the margin planks are laid, start in the centre and work out toward the sides, that way everything remains symmetrical, I did not have the problem of very thin strips at the edges like the bloke on the flikr photos says he had. Draw an accurate centre line down the middle of the deck and you should be OK. I have not built the cabin or fitted out the rear cockpit yet, the hull is being painted at the moment, my mate is doing it for me, he is a painter by trade and does a much better job than I can do, He takes for ever, giving the job about 10 coats but it is worth waiting for. the cabin actually has to be built on to the boat and is not removable, but there is plenty of room inside to work.
Have a nice day,
Nick.

muleears · « **Reply #36 on:** April 29, 2012, 07:08:25 pm »

That's odd, all the pics appear on my end. When I upload them I pick the 640 x 480 size. Oh well, not much of import in them anyway. I have since added the rod to the rudder and I have the strips along the outer edge of the hull in place. That went surprisingly well. Now I'll find the center and start planking. How did you manage to make the joint between the planks and the planking edge a sharp close joint?

I think the gap between the hull and the deck is small enough that I can deal with it with a little filler.

Are you painting the entire hull or just below the waterline? Which brings up another question... how do you determine the waterline?

When you built your rudder did you drill a hole for each nail? Or are they very short and glued in place?

Weather here today is cloudy and about 18 C. Supposed to rise to almost 30 C by mid week. Enjoy what's left of your weekend and again, thank you.

Cal

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #37 on:** April 29, 2012, 07:46:27 pm »

I drilled right through the rudder, using the brass banding (which I had already shaped and drilled) as a template, don't forget to cut the pins down to about 3/32" or you wont be able to get a pin in either side, and do it in a plastic bag as the fly every where. To make a neat join at the plank ends, lay the mahogany strip in place with the end overhanging the margin plank and then follow the line with a sharp pencil, once the line is drawn on you can cut to fit, fine adjustments being made with sandpaper. Use a sharp 4H pencil for accuracy, its amazing how thick a pencil line can be and if you cut the wrong side of it errors will occur. The underside of the hull is painted and tomorrow umpteen coats of white will be applied until the job looks good. The waterline is easy, take the marks off the plan, I use a compass for this, or a set of dividers, and transfer to the hull, one at the bows and one at the stern, the stern one being just below the lower rudder mounting block.Turn the hull upside down and prop up untl the two marks are level then make a block of the correct height, tape your pencil to it ans slide the block along the table using the pencil to join the marks together. I have attempted to do a diagram in 'MS Paint' I hope you can understand it. alternately, you could use an engineers height gauge instead of a block of wood, if you can get hold of one. Time for me to take the old dog for a walk now whilst there is a lull in the rainfall.
Take care,
Nick

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #38 on:** April 29, 2012, 08:00:17 pm »

Here's a little diagram showing (I hope) how to mark the ends of your planks....

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #39 on:** April 29, 2012, 08:02:49 pm »

And your pictures have suddenly appeared. Nice work, you are doing fine.

muleears · « **Reply #40 on:** April 29, 2012, 10:38:52 pm »

Hope you and the hound stayed dry! Thank you for all the diagrams, they were very helpful. Later tonite I'll post a pic of the planking I have gotten done. Unfortunately its back to work tomorrow, so no fun till 4 pm or so...

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #41 on:** April 29, 2012, 11:15:54 pm »

He doesn't go far, he is a 15year old Yorkshire Terrier called Monty, and does not like long walks any more, so we were out and back before the rain started again.

muleears · « **Reply #42 on:** April 30, 2012, 09:36:45 am »

Well, here is the planking I got done yesterday. Got a little carried away on the first side I did and planked too far aft, I know I couldnt tear it up so I matched it on the other side.

Well, off to work, enjoy your day and thanks again!

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #43 on:** April 30, 2012, 06:28:43 pm »

Hi there, nice neat job you have done there. I usually do alternate sides so the planking progresses symmetrically across the deck, on mine I carried on going straight right down the deck, across the engine bay and cockpit openings, trimming the openings as I went along and using the short bits on the bulkheads that way you get a straight run of planks the whole width of the boat, you may have a bit of fiddling when you do the middle bit and the rear end, but looking at your work so far I am sure you will do a good job.
Keep at it,
Regards,
Nick.

muleears · « **Reply #44 on:** May 02, 2012, 11:17:52 pm »

Nick, the coaming for the hatches and floor supports, all the directions say is "plywood 3mm" I don't find any 3mm plywood. Should I make them out of scraps or is it here somewhere?

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #45 on:** May 02, 2012, 11:46:45 pm »

Hi there, the hatches themselves are the parts you push out of the hatch openings in parts 53 and 98. You need to glue some strips around the underside of the openings, anything will do, I used offcuts of planking, they support the hatches and are not seen.

Heres a link to a rather good video of a modified Victoria, brilliant sound track!

Have fun,
Regards,
Nick
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gHFgeC1c85A

muleears · « **Reply #46 on:** May 03, 2012, 02:04:54 am »

I suspected I'd have to fab something. I can do that. Thanks again Nick and great video!

muleears · « **Reply #47 on:** May 06, 2012, 08:22:23 pm »

I haven't dropped off the earth! Building has just been OBE (overcome by events). I'll get back to it shortly, otherwise my wife will want her kitchen table back!

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #48 on:** May 07, 2012, 10:05:54 am »

I await your next post with baited breath! Nearly finished the paint job on mine, then I can start on the cabin etc....

muleears · « **Reply #49 on:** July 04, 2012, 11:26:33 am »

Quote from: pettyofficernick on April 27, 2012, 08:21:22 pm

No 5 is a view of the baseplate I got from Tony Green Steam Models here in the UK, it started life about 12.5 inches long and was slowly whittled away during the engine bay planning stages. and finally No 6 is the boiler sitting on its baseplate.

I have found Tony Green's site, but I cannot find any information on the baseplate, I do need one, otherwise I'll have to fabricate out of the 1/8" aluminum door push I have. Any other sources?

Cal

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Author Topic: My Krick Victoria - MkII (Read 116787 times)