Topic: My Krick Victoria - MkII (Read 117367 times)

derekwarner · « **Reply #50 on:** July 04, 2012, 08:57:09 pm »

Cal.....if you do go down the path of fabricating your own base plate...make sure it is long enough in one piece to mount all of the boiler + engine components + gas tank + oily water seperator + any other component that is hard tube connected ....steam regulator valve...+ gas regulator if fitted etc........

...much easier to tube up as one unit & remove as necessary as one unit

The mounting of the servos can be externally connected as necessary........ Derek

muleears · « **Reply #51 on:** July 17, 2012, 01:30:07 am »

Sorry for the tardy reply, I have been out of town.
That sounds like excellent advice, but don't they get kind of large and cumbersome?

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #52 on:** July 18, 2012, 05:37:18 pm »

Hi Cal, I had to mount my engine at an angle of about 15 degrees in order for it to line up with the shaft, so mounting all on one plate didn't work for me. Try emailing Tony Green, as he also has stuff not listed on his site.
Regards,
Nick.

muleears · « **Reply #53 on:** July 28, 2012, 11:18:12 am »

Nick,
In looking at the pics of your Victoria, I see some parts with the finish already applied and some raw. At what point are you doing the finishing work? After assembly, or do you finish each piece before assembly? As you know I have the deck almost completely done, but mine has no wood finish on it. Also, I have been using a polyurethane spar varnish, is that ok? It says it is for outdoor use. I usually apply 4 or more coats.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #54 on:** July 28, 2012, 02:33:08 pm »

Hi Cal, Its a bit of both really, once I had the deck down, I gave it a couple of coats to protect it, then more at the end of the job. If a part will be difficult to get at once it has been fitted, paint/varnish it first. There are no hard and fast rules, its down to personal preference and whats easiest for you. Polyurethane varnish is fine and gives a hard long lasting finish.
Keep up the good work,
Regards,
Nick.

muleears · « **Reply #55 on:** August 04, 2012, 03:46:56 pm »

Well, I have the Alexandra put away for the time being and have replaced it with the Victoria. I need to look back over this thread to figure out just where I am in the building process!

Nick, from the plans it appears the ribs go up under the gunwale and extend down to the lower deck. Do they go below the deck or just stop where they meet? I have some spare 1x5mm mahogany that is darker than what came with the boat that would look nice there. Which brings up another question, do you paint the inside of the hull with anything or leave it white? Thanks for any and all input.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #56 on:** August 04, 2012, 04:45:40 pm »

Hi Cal, the ribs go from the deck to up behind the coaming/gunwhale, just enough so you cant see the ends, I used a set of dividers to space them out correctly. As far as painting inside goes, its up to you, I painted between the ribs white to hide a few stray glue marks. I fixed the ribs in place with thick cyano.Keep at it,
Nick.

muleears · « **Reply #57 on:** August 05, 2012, 01:19:22 pm »

Minor milestone today. Put the last mahogany deck plank on. I think next I'll sand it and put a few coats of Nick's 50% polyurethane on it. Then on to the floor and mounting the motor.

Nick, I have emailed Mr. Green regarding a base plate, I'll let you know what I hear.

I have some glue spots to get rid of, cut off all the excess, sand and then put some finish on. If I'm getting out of order please let me know!

Cal

PS: Where can I find a pin and disk coupling? All I can find is universal joints.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #58 on:** August 05, 2012, 03:33:44 pm »

Hi Cal, I made my pin and disc coupling from a Meccano wheel and a small brass flywheel with a roll pin in it, if you look back through the thread I think you will find some photos of it. otherwise you are doing fine. hrer is a link to the Mechano wheels I used, you could use 2 of these with a bolt through one of them for the pin, then cut a slot through from the edge to just past one of the holes in the wheel its self. I think I may have had to open the hole in the boss slightly to suit the shaft.
Looking fine so far,
Regards,
Nick.

http://www.meccanospares.com/shop/article_24b./Bush-Wheel-6-Hole-Original.html?sessid=x6vywrEluNqCjNpbHijZVntJ0odX4Lh2oDNXohai8uJm3Y7YhKIkpqn7SqyX9v7V&shop_param=cid%3D68%26aid%3D24b.%26

muleears · « **Reply #59 on:** August 06, 2012, 02:11:11 am »

Nick, thanks for the link. I realized as I was assessing the status of my build today that I hadn't put on the rubbing strakes and spacers. I located the lumber and stained it dark mahogany, the spacers will stay natural in color, I'm hoping for a little contrast. I am no artist so I hope this attempt at adding some flair doesn't backfire on me! Regarding the rubbing strakes, did you leave yours square or did you round them somewhat? In this pic: http://www.flickr.com/photos/90322523@N00/2486899945/in/set-72157605148425113/ it appears the builder rounded the corners some. What do you think.? It doesn't look like mahogany though. Foolishly, I have already stained the rubbing strakes, so if I decide to sand them, I'll be back to staining...

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #60 on:** August 06, 2012, 07:19:45 am »

Good morning Cal, once the rubbing strakes/spacers have been fitted, just take the sharp edge off the rubbing strakes, it is easier to do this once they are fitted as it is easier than trying to hold thin pieces if wood.. You may need to soak the ends in boiling water to coax them around the shape of the bow, and the short pieces across the stern will also be helped with the same treatment, as there is a bit of a compound curve to overcome.
Regards,
Nick.

muleears · « **Reply #61 on:** August 06, 2012, 11:37:21 am »

Thanks Nick, when I get home from work I'll attach them and we'll see how my little artful experiment works out!

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #62 on:** August 07, 2012, 09:16:58 am »

Hi Cal, once you have sorted the rubbing strakes out, you should be looking at fitting the propshaft and steam plant.. If you are using the PMR engine, you will have to nount the servo for the throttle/reverser in the engine compartment, disguised as a crate or tool chest, the method shown on the plan would not be suitable unless you fit a bell crank as the lever runs athwart-ships on the PMR, mounting the servo in the cabin is for engines where the lever moves fore and aft
Happy building,
Regards,
Nick.

muleears · « **Reply #63 on:** August 07, 2012, 03:45:21 pm »

I forgot to tell you, I got a reply from Tony Green and they were unable to help me. Any other sources?

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #64 on:** August 07, 2012, 05:46:55 pm »

That's strange, I got one from them last year, I will phone them and see what they say. I will have a look and see what I can find and let you know. Failing that, you could make one from Aluminum sheet, an old kick plate from the bottom of a door is a good source of aluminum for this sort of job, or brass if you can find some. Do you have a scrapyard near you, here in the UK most scrap dealers are quite happy to sell bits and pieces of metal.
Regards,
Nick

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #65 on:** August 07, 2012, 06:00:07 pm »

Have a look at this link, scroll down to the bottom of the page and you will find what you are looking for, Its a bit pricey but it will do the job. There may be a distributor for Miniature Steam in the US, they are actually an Australian company, so It may be worth looking there as well as you may get a better exchange rate......

muleears · « **Reply #66 on:** August 07, 2012, 07:30:32 pm »

Should I have the floor and the middle bulkhead mounted before I do this or do they all need to be done together? I had been thinking about the throttle servo. I was originally thinking about the bellcrank setup but there is no way to disguise that. I hadn't thought of a separate crate to hide it in. How did you finish the floor? The standard polyurethane or some other method. I'm thinking it will see a lot of water and some oil. I don't want it coming apart at some later date. Thanks again.

muleears · « **Reply #67 on:** August 07, 2012, 07:32:43 pm »

Quote from: pettyofficernick on August 07, 2012, 06:00:07 pm

Have a look at this link, scroll down to the bottom of the page and you will find what you are looking for, Its a bit pricey but it will do the job. There may be a distributor for Miniature Steam in the US, they are actually an Australian company, so It may be worth looking there as well as you may get a better exchange rate......

Thanks for the suggestion Nick, but the link didn't make it to me for some reason.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #68 on:** August 07, 2012, 08:59:09 pm »

Oops, silly me, I must have forgotten to paste tie link in, so here it is.

http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Minature-Steam-Engines-Accessories.html

muleears · « **Reply #69 on:** August 08, 2012, 12:48:01 am »

Regarding the tray for the boiler/engine/gas tank. I am going to check with a local welding/fabrication shop and see if they can fab one up for me. Maybe make it out of sheet brass? Aluminum?

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #70 on:** August 08, 2012, 01:58:50 am »

Either will do , try and get 0.5mm brass to keep the weight down, not such weight problem with aluminum.

muleears · « **Reply #71 on:** August 10, 2012, 11:05:51 am »

Still slowly plugging along, not much time for building lately. Hopefully this weekend. I do have the top rubbing strakes stained and installed. I'm currently working on the spacers. I found that I am one mahogany rubbing strake short, so I have bought some 1/8" square spruce and stained it to match. I don't think anyone will be able to tell the difference. I couldn't find any 3mm square mahogany strips locally.

I am going to have to get creative with the stern, the strakes and spacers are all (except the ones I bought) about 3-5mm short. I really didn't want to splice them to add 3mm...

I'll update again when I get the strakes/spacers all on.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #72 on:** August 10, 2012, 03:15:15 pm »

There is a laser cut part for the spacer at the stern, it is slightly curved top and bottom, on one of the 0.5mm laser cut sheets. The part number will be on the plan, cross reference that with the sheet layouts in the instructions and you will find it.

muleears · « **Reply #73 on:** August 10, 2012, 05:45:01 pm »

Quote from: pettyofficernick on August 10, 2012, 03:15:15 pm

There is a laser cut part for the spacer at the stern, it is slightly curved top and bottom, on one of the 0.5mm laser cut sheets. The part number will be on the plan, cross reference that with the sheet layouts in the instructions and you will find it.

Thanks Nick, I should have known, if all else fails... read the instructions

I should get all of this done this weekend and hopefully get started on the boiler room floor.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #74 on:** August 10, 2012, 06:44:19 pm »

There should also be 2 short lengths of 1/8 square mahogany in one of the fittings boxes the correct length for the stern parts of the rubbing strake...

News:

Author Topic: My Krick Victoria - MkII (Read 117367 times)