Topic: My Krick Victoria - MkII (Read 116330 times)

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #175 on:** September 30, 2012, 11:00:35 pm »

Hi Cal, good advice from Jerry there, As you have basically the same plant as me you will e fine with a few ounces in the stern, low down.
Looking good,
Regards,
Nick

derekwarner · « **Reply #176 on:** October 01, 2012, 12:16:17 am »

Cal....you were asking a few days back on the need for a sump or what ever

Many oscillators do have the tendency to spit fluid from the cylinder valve faces across to the hull....I have seen on a number of French sites where this has occurred

Below are two examples......one as a form of protection & one as a possible consequence

Some simple steps could be taken after commissioning if you do find a problem......Derek

muleears · « **Reply #177 on:** October 01, 2012, 04:22:52 pm »

Thank you Derek, I'm sure I will need something to take care of the 'cast off' from a twin oscillator. It will be a few months before commissioning I suspect.... Winter is approaching, so I'll guess April to May.

Following up on Jerry's comments, below are some pics of the only alternative location I can find for the gas tank. I don't see where it could be put in the cabin, so that only leaves the bow (where I had it) or the location in the pics. There is very little clearance around the tank, it is only about 5mm from the engine. The other side will be occupied by the throttle servo (inside a crate of some sort). Will the placement of the gas tank in the bow cause a serious balance problem? I guess the only way to tell is to put it in the water. If anyone has any other suggestions, I'm listening!

muleears · « **Reply #178 on:** October 01, 2012, 07:14:48 pm »

I forgot to mention, that is also the location I was going to put my condenser/oil separator. So I'm in a fix...

muleears · « **Reply #179 on:** October 02, 2012, 09:11:46 am »

My first plumbing attempt!

Between the boiler and the engine. I cut and threaded each brass section, the one to attach to the engine needs to be soldered and I need the proper fitting to attach to the boiler, but I guess its a start. Anyone see any problems with it? Provided it doesn't leak of course

. I guess, generally in plumbing I have a choice between bending brass or copper to meet the needs or I can do as I have done and only employ straight brass and utilize fittings to make my turns. Suggestions and comments welcome!

essex2visuvesi · « **Reply #180 on:** October 02, 2012, 09:53:50 am »

that steam line looks very neat and professional :) makes a huge difference, really stands out!

When/If I get round to building one I think I will use the same technique

muleears · « **Reply #181 on:** October 02, 2012, 09:02:42 pm »

Thanks for the compliment, but you haven't seen my soldering skills.....

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #182 on:** October 04, 2012, 07:18:31 pm »

Quote from: muleears on October 01, 2012, 07:14:48 pm

I forgot to mention, that is also the location I was going to put my condenser/oil separator. So I'm in a fix...

Hi Cal, I saw a Victoria with the gas tank mounted along side the engine, the condenser was mounted on the opposite side. The crate for your servo could go along side your condenser. In saying that, my gas tank is in front of the boiler, and I have had no problems with the trim.
Regards,
Nick.

muleears · « **Reply #183 on:** October 04, 2012, 09:26:06 pm »

I'm hoping, I can put the condenser on one side of the engine and the crate/servo on the other and the gas tank in front.

I have been pussyfooting around too much lately, too afraid I'll make a mistake, this weekend I am going to do some serious assembly, not just little doo dads like I have been recently. I may make some mistakes but significant progress will be made by Monday morning!

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #184 on:** October 04, 2012, 09:32:07 pm »

Good form Cal, that's the spirit! I will be driving home from Weymouth tomorrow, some 300 miles and the weather looks bad, so it looks like being a long drive. Get stuck in mate, and she will soon be on the water.
Regards,
Nick.

derekwarner · « **Reply #185 on:** October 05, 2012, 02:59:20 am »

Cal....just thinking.....

..if you wanted to minimise your soldering.......you could simply use Loctite Type 567 liquid Teflon paste for all of those screwed joints

The thread form takes all of the mechanical loading.........the lightest smear of the 567 provides the steam tight seal up to 205 degrees C

The alternative to this is a small roll of Teflon tape from any hardware store for about $1.00 ....................Derek

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #186 on:** October 05, 2012, 04:11:19 pm »

I either use PTFE tape or 'Boss White" a pipe jointing compound used by plumbers.....
Regards,
Nick.

muleears · « **Reply #187 on:** October 05, 2012, 10:15:22 pm »

I have some Loctite 565 "PTFE thread sealant for metal fittings" I read somewhere this was the stuff to use. Comments?

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #188 on:** October 05, 2012, 10:35:30 pm »

Just had a look at the spec sheet for this stuff, looks good.

http://www.ibtinc.com/artman/uploads/1/loctite565tech.pdf

Regards,
Nick

muleears · « **Reply #189 on:** October 05, 2012, 10:50:17 pm »

Quote from: muleears on October 02, 2012, 09:11:46 am

In the above pic, can someone tell me what I need to connect the pipe from the engine to the boiler? It is 5/32 pipe and fittings, Nick tells me the boiler is 1/4 x 40. How do I connect the two??? I am very ignorant when it comes to plumbing fittings so please be specific! Include a link if you can! Do I need a nipple adapter, a tube union, a bushing of some sort? In this case I realize I'll need another inch of 5/32 pipe, but what connects that to the valve on the boiler? Thanks in advance.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #190 on:** October 05, 2012, 11:57:54 pm »

Hi Cal, there are a couple of ways of going about this, the easiest way is to contact PMR, as they do an adapter to connect their pipe thread to Maccsteam boilers, I got one with my V twin for the same purpose. You may also need to make up a small length of copper or brass pipe with a 1/4 x 40 nut and nipple on each end.. alternately, use a femail type fitting directly to the stop valve, you would have to assemble the pipework from the boiler to the engine though.Here's a couple of photos to show you what I mean...

muleears · « **Reply #191 on:** October 06, 2012, 08:01:10 pm »

I've finally got the mechanics mounted on the template. Worked out well. Had to shorten the bolts for the gas tank and boiler (burned my finger doing it too

). There seems to be enough clearance between each. Some concerns I have though are: the aluminum plate is not as stiff as I would like, I may double it using the brass as the top plate. The valve for the gas tank faces away from the burner, or it is on the other end, not sure how I want to deal with that. I think now I need to figure a way to attach this plate to the boat. I'm thinking of adding some solid blocks to the hull that I can put some countersunk brass nuts into (not sure what they're called (last pic)). Then I can attach and remove from the top at will.

These things screw into the wood then you can screw a bolt in to them.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #192 on:** October 06, 2012, 08:53:11 pm »

Good evening Cal, you could always turn the gas tank around the other way, so the outlet faces inwards. If I remember rightly, there is some M3 captive nuts supplird with the kit, and the bolts to go with them, they are about 10mm in diameter with 4 little spikes on them, they go under the deck, or have you fixed the deck down now? Failing that, some 1/2 inch round headed brass wood screws would be fine. I must say it is all coming together nicely and very neat.
Regards,
Nick.

muleears · « **Reply #193 on:** October 06, 2012, 09:28:08 pm »

I hadn't realized there might be something in the kit to use, I'll take a look. I haven't fixed the deck down yet so I still have time. I have bought some of the nuts with the spikes on them too. I think my next problem will be the sump beneath the engine. I'm not sure how to handle that yet.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #194 on:** October 06, 2012, 09:49:10 pm »

Do you have a printers nearby, if so, you could try and scrounge a bit of old litho plate it is very thin aluminium sheet easy to bend,you could make a little sump from that and epoxy it in place, I have used this method in the past with success.....

derekwarner · « **Reply #195 on:** October 06, 2012, 10:18:51 pm »

Cal....your hobby shop will have the Du-Bro "threaded inserts" as below......however not to be confused with a "blind nut"

...Derek

muleears · « **Reply #196 on:** October 06, 2012, 11:39:59 pm »

Thanks Derek, I'll be sure not to confuse them! Actually I already have some of both. I think the threaded inserts (thanks for reminding me what they are) I have are too small. Fortunately my local hardware store carries them also.

muleears · « **Reply #197 on:** October 07, 2012, 08:51:03 pm »

Progress on the mounting of the mechanics. Below are some pics of how I have attached the plate to the engine room floor. I used blind nuts and epoxied them when I got them in the right place. I also had to counter sink (in this case just drill a hole) where the mounting bolts for the boiler and gas tank meet the engine room floor. I still haven't figured out a sump yet. I need to do that next so I can fix the floor in place. I know the mounting bolt locations aren't symmetrical but I had to put them where I could get to them. Comments are welcome. First a few shots of the floor and engine/boiler/gas tank out of the boat then a couple of it in.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #198 on:** October 07, 2012, 09:18:42 pm »

Hi Cal, looking at your photos, I think what I would do would be to frame around the edge of the cut out in the engine room floor with something like 1/4 x 1/2 timber and cover with 1/8 ply. sizes are not critical, use whatever you have and give it plenty of primer and paint to seal it all up against oil and water. I think that is probably the easiest way.
Regards,
Nick.

muleears · « **Reply #199 on:** October 08, 2012, 01:07:53 am »

That is pretty much what I have done, Nick. I used the plywood scraps that the stand came out of and built a frame around the opening. I had to go around the blind nuts also. I glued 1/8" ply across the opening to close it. I then painted the inside black and commenced to soak it with poly. That is about where I am now, waiting for poly to dry so I can put more on. Next I'll epoxy it to the underside of the floor, then I'll poly the outside as well. I will have to cut away some of the supports under the floor to make it fit. I'll only remove as much as necessary and try to attach the sump to it to make it stronger. I'd post some pics but it's really ugly

. I'll post some from the top when I get it finished. Thanks for the help Nick. I feel I've made some progress this weekend, plus I'm off tomorrow and it is supposed to continue raining so no work outside, I'll have to work on the boat!

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Author Topic: My Krick Victoria - MkII (Read 116330 times)