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[NFMike]

As with spanners, knowing whether you need a metric or imperial Allen key can be a problem, except I find it easier to sense with spanners.
With hex keys the wrong one can feel fairly good - but it isn't really.

[irishcarguy]

You are right Mike, but what I do is keep all the sets separate & when I find one close or a reasonably good fit I try the ones from the other sets as well that nearly match & that way I nearly always find the correct one. It is one of those times you have to take great care. Mick B. 

[HS93 (RIP)]

You can always use these from prop shop, I prefer to not use a coupling on medium power to high applications
http://www.prop-shop.co.uk/index.php?id=26&section=services&sub_section=products&product_type=26

Peter

[irishcarguy]

Thats a nice simple coupling that looks well made Peter, there is knowledge like yours & oldirons (John) about. We need to explore the subject further thats for sure, Mick B.

[Stavros]

So why do we suddenly want to reinvent the wheel


Dave

[malcolmfrary]

So why do we suddenly want to reinvent the wheel


Dave

Because we have largely got used to runners.  So to speak.  To work properly in all circumstances, Huco type couplers need better engineering than most of us are prepared to pay for.  Anyway, whatever comes along next will still need a grub screw or similar unless someone really clever develops something like a chuck.  Then again, a 3 jaw chuck is probably at its best when gripping a hex shaft...........

[Circlip]

We were using the "Rip-Max" ball and socket couplings fifty years ago similar to this one :- http://www.puffinmodels.com/product.php?prod=1706. and as far as a collet type clamp, been using these on toy aircraft to fasten propellors onto the out/inrunner shafts for yonks.   http://www.thefind.com/family/info-collet-prop-adapter

  Regards  Ian.

[Norseman]

So why do we suddenly want to reinvent the wheel

Maybe for the same reason they keep reinventing your car paints Dave 

You know guys in workshops or labcoats - Per Ardua ad Astra

Dave

[irishcarguy]

The joint that you show Ian is better than the Huco I think & the big surprise is the chuck type fittings for props. I had never seen them, I will buy some to play with. For those that are interested my milling machine is now home but it was pretty heavy (600 LBS.) to lift on to its stand, so we used straps & an engine crane,there were some sweaty & scary moments though.Mick B.

[boatmadman]

Hmm, just wondering if 2 collet type connectors with a short length of flexi shaft between might work?

Any comments?

Ian

[HS93 (RIP)]

The joint that you show Ian is better than the Huco I think & the big surprise is the chuck type fittings for props. I had never seen them, I will buy some to play with. For those that are interested my milling machine is now home but it was pretty heavy (600 LBS.) to lift on to its stand, so we used straps & an engine crane,there were some sweaty & scary moments though.Mick B.

have you bought all the tooling for your mill yet,  that cost  is normally more than the mill. Even just a set of collet chucks to hold your cutters safely is not cheap,

Peter

[CF-FZG]

So why do we suddenly want to reinvent the wheel

I don't think anyone is trying to reinvent the wheel - however, there's nothing wrong with trying to improve it


Mark.

[Martin (Admin)]

Hmm, just wondering if 2 collet type connectors with a short length of flexi shaft between might work?

......  cost.

[irishcarguy]

I have bought some Peter. The collet set was $149.00, 20 piece end mill set metric & imperial were $99.00 each & ball mills were $15.00 each 1/16, 1/8, 3/16 & a 1/4 so far. I am not sure how good the quality is yet. If you look up Busy Bee or Craftex on the net I bought the CX601 model mill. It will be a whole new ball game for me, I have never used a mill. I also got a 4 inch rotary table/chuck so should be O/K to start. It came with an R8 Arbour & drill chuck. I am sure I will be buying lots more when I have some more cash LOL. Mick B.   

[irishcarguy]

When I look @ the cost of a good kit & all that goes into it Martin the joints are a very small part of the overall cost. I hope that a good joint can be made in bulk for what we pay for the ones we are using @ present, I will certainly give it a good go, even if I fail. I will not keep it to myself I hope we all can benefit in the end. Mick B. PS = Martin how much more gooddies have you got left to sell, LOL.

[essex2visuvesi]

Hmm, just wondering if 2 collet type connectors with a short length of flexi shaft between might work?

Any comments?

Ian

Someones already done it
http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/graupner-flexshaft-couplings.html

[HS93 (RIP)]

When I look @ the cost of a good kit & all that goes into it Martin the joints are a very small part of the overall cost. I hope that a good joint can be made in bulk for what we pay for the ones we are using @ present, I will certainly give it a good go, even if I fail. I will not keep it to myself I hope we all can benefit in the end. Mick B. PS = Martin how much more gooddies have you got left to sell, LOL.

what problems have you had in BOAT'S with Huco couplings ? as If used correctly and not asking to much of them they tend to work fine. they don't like side loads. I would use them in the correct setting

peter

[oldiron]

what problems have you had in BOAT'S with Huco couplings ? as If used correctly and not asking to much of them they tend to work fine. they don't like side loads. I would use them in the correct setting

peter

  That's the problem, they're not used correctly. For a Huco , or any single universal, the shafts have to be perfectly aligned in order to eliminate the noise and vibration any shaft misalignment may cause. After all this is the purpose of universal joints, to compensate for misaligned shafts. If the shafts are that perfectly aligned, there is no need for any universal joint.
  To work properly and as they should you need to two universals back to back and phased by 90 deg. There are very few models boaters who do this. Any other hobby that uses rotating shafts with any hint of misalignment knows you use a double universal joint. Just look at the drive shaft on your car and it will tell you all.

John

[steamboatmodel]

Any time I am installing a Flexible Coupling I measure its length and make up a solid straight coupling to align the prop shaft and the motor shaft. One they are aligned I then replace the solid one with the flexible one.
Regards,
Gerald.

[oldiron]

Any time I am installing a Flexible Coupling I measure its length and make up a solid straight coupling to align the prop shaft and the motor shaft. One they are aligned I then replace the solid one with the flexible one.
Regards,
Gerald.

Then why not just leave in the solid coupling, because a single u joint is far from flexible, and save yourself the money.

John

[Norseman]

I've seen Peter's alignment and you couldn't shim anything with a Gnat's danglies
but I bet every one of you guys chere could nominate and post  a photo from Mayhem
that proves Mick's point about people not aligning motors and just relying on the huco.

Dave

[RAAArtyGunner]

Then why not just leave in the solid coupling, because a single u joint is far from flexible, and save yourself the money.

John

Yes my thoughts also and a good question.
As it is already "aligned" why introduce a 'problem"

[Peter Fitness]

Hmm, just wondering if 2 collet type connectors with a short length of flexi shaft between might work?

Any comments?

Ian

I made some for my Armidale Class patrol Boat which work very well, see here - http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=18654.0 reply #27, photo #18

Peter.

[irishcarguy]

Hi Peter, I had seen your flex joints in John's (oldiron) previous post and attached again in this thread & remarked how well made they were. Once more you have attached pictures of a boat built to a very high standard & a pleasure to see, showing the home made joints & thank you for that, they look well made & I can see they will work well too. What we tend to forget on a forum of this type where members are always coming up with new ideas & ways to "improve" things that we do & use is that not everyone can & do build to your & John's standards. I have been on the forum about 18 months & to be honest have learned most of my boat "education" from members like yourself & John & many others as well who are always willing to share their ideas & fixes with us all. My background in automotive has given me a solid grounding in things mechanical & I find myself applying that to what I feel are issues that I perceive are not right mechanically or could be improved. My quest for a better joint started when I saw the vibration & heard the noise the Huco's made in my boat so here we are at this point where I have found & modified a joint from the model car hobby that works( needs more testing & a lathe to modify) & one of my own design that requires a milling machine to produce to a more accurate configuration before I can say it will or won't work . If it works I will be glad to share it with all the forum members. I am not looking for a slap on the back for being such a "nice fella". When I raced Cars & Karts I always shared any improvements that I made along the way if anybody was interested, back then we did not do things with the idea of "whats in it for me". Mick B.   

[Colin Bishop]

There is nothing new under the sun - anyone remember the Elmic Thrust Pak  http://www.ascotscalemodels.co.uk/vintage-elmic-thrust-pak-3-6v-1950s-full-working-order-508-p.asp