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[Jerry C]

OK, I'm back and feel the need for steam, so here's the plan. I want to scratch build a 4 1/2" to 5 1/2" Scotch return flue boiler, all the fittings, where possible, and an up-scaled version (loose crib) of the TVR1A engine. Finally put the lot in another Launch half as big again as S.L.Wear. However to speed things up I intend to use a GRP hull of some sort.

I have been kindly lent a Taig/Peatol lathe and with the assistance of some Christmases and birthdays I've kitted it out with all it's accessories including the milling attachment.

Over the last year I've been watching MRPETE222/Tubalcain on youtube learning as much as I can suck in.
As with my steam launch build I will put as much on  the forum as I'm able and hope it will be of use to you.
Watch this space.
Jerry.

[steamshed]

Just a thought Jerry, did you see the Piston valve engine that "Bogstandard" built, pretty powerful and made from bar stock???, drawing are provided I believe on Paddleducks site.
Mike

[Jerry C]

Thanks Mike. I'll look into it.
Jerry.

[steamshed]

http://www.machinistblog.com/bogstandards-paddleduck-engine-plans/
Its moved, plus a video of it running
Mike

[southsteyne2]

Hi Jerry I also have a taig lathe and has great potential .I built this 5/8 " x 3/4" mostly brass stainless steel and cast iron and have run on steam plenty grunt so far and will be turning 85mm prop on my clinker launch
Cheers
John

[SailorGreg]

Great news!  Jerry's back in the building business 

Looking forward to this one.

Greg

[boatmadman]

I have a peatol lathe, it is surprisingly competent for its size.


I used it for the turning required for the engines pictured. These are paddleduck engines.


Build log here:


http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,22541.0.html


Ian

[Jerry C]

Thanks for the input guys, it's good to know the lathe's up to the job. Hopefully here's a pic of the Taig lathe in my arrangement. We threw out an old nest of tables so I wizzed the legs off the biggest and mounted Lathe, motor and switchgear on the top. I drilled numerous holes in the base to put the most used tools in handy places to help keep me tidy when working. As I seem to be unable to put my pics in a post where I would like them to be in relation to the text. I'm going to do one pic per post.
Jerry.

[Circlip]

Could do with a cover between the lathe and the motor slots Jerry. It saves the next question.
 
  Regards  Ian.

[Netleyned]

Do you have to stretch over a spinning lathe to reach the on/off switch?




Ned

[Circlip]

Isn't a stretch, but as the basic material to be turned is hard brass, it's surprising how far the "Spray" of turnings travels, so the type of switch used and its position means it possibly won't last long. Brass is an excellent conductor and gravity acts downwards.
 
  Regards  Ian.

[Jerry C]

I started off by making some ferrule nuts in 1/4" x 40tpi 5/16" A/F. I copied some that I bought for my previous plant on Wear.
 Safety first:- taped up my jacket cuffs with duct tape. Remove all rings and donned rubber gloves, (contact dermatitis), and put on safety specks. Lathe cleaned and lubed.

Please note this lathe is imperial so it's fractions and thou from now on but I'll include the odd mm when it helps.
First problem, the 5/16"A/F bar is too thick to feed through the headstock and into the chuck. This means I had to cut the bar to what will go in the chuck plus 1 1/2" overhang. This means waste as the bit left over when I'd made enough was 3/4".
So what size will go through? A quick check says maximum is 8.5mm,or 11/32" or 0.340".

I was working with 5/16" A/F or 8mm.
1)put stock in chuck with 4x diameter max overhang(got this figure from TUBALCAIN)
2)attached tool holder to cross slide.
3)put tool in holder with minimum overhang.
4)faced off the end of the bar.(noted the little tail in the middle disappeared so tool tip very near to axis)
5)brought up tailstock chuck fitted with 1/4" shank center drill and drilled a center in the end off the hex bar.
6)replaced center drill with 11/64" drill and drilled through for about 4 nuts worth. (this is the clearance hole for 5/32" OD pipe as will be using collets not ferrules).
7)drill 7/32" x 0.220" deep.
8)put 1/4" x 40tpi M.E. taper tap in chuck. This keeps tap square to the work.
9)turning the 3 jaw chuck by hand(unplug motor) gently feed tap into work until thread well started, back out and replace with plug tap and finish thread to 7 1/2 turns.
10)measure depth of hole and add 24thou for depth of nut.
11)turn away the hexagon on the end of the nut for 75thou, leaving a 45deg slope on the hex. Make note of depth setting on cross slide wheel.
12)then mirror cut on other end
13)cut or file small chamfer on sharp edges/ holes before finally parting off holding a toothpick in the finished nut so it doesn't get lost.
14)quick polish on buffing station.
repeat until stock too short for chuck.

Simples.

Hopefully here come the pics.
Jerry.

 

[Jerry C]

Thanks Ian and Ned, all well received re switch and motor vents.
Here's the finished article. The turning I did dry with no cutting fluid. For drilling and tapping I used the last of my Rocol RTD left over from a previous life.
Jerry.

[Jerry C]

Next I made some collets.
1)fed 12" x 1/4" round bar through the chuck with 1" overhang. (too much overhang and things get noisy and juddery as tool force bends the stock off its axis). Faced off the end.
2) center drill the end.
3) drilled 5/32" for pipe.
4)turned down from 1/4" to 7/32" diameter.
5)Part off at 45deg for 1st one.
6)part off at 90deg for 2nd one
repeat as required.

I understand that this may be teaching lots of nanas to suck eggs but the idea is to show peeps, who may think they can't do it, my thought process and how I find things out and learn myself. Any constructive criticism, advice or safety comments are welcome.
I hope this thread will give peeps the push they need to get started.

I'm using a tiny, imperial, American lathe.I know it's not a Myford, or an Atlas etc. but it's what I've got.
Jerry.

[boatmadman]

Nice work.


I made a cheap simple dro for my peatol. Its a digital tyre depth guage with magnets fitted to the base to hold it on the bedplate and a socket turned to hold a magnet on the depth spindle - easy, cheap and v effective.


I would also recommend you look at a rear parting tool for this lathe, it makes a world of difference!


Ian

[Jerry C]

Next I tried my hand at making a complete, 90deg valve, using some drawings obtained from a friend.
This is as far as I got before breaking the last tip on my only center drill. I meant to order 6 from Tracy Tools (also from a previous life) when I ordered my taps & dies but left them off the list, doh! Moral, order before getting down to last one.
Jerry.

ps. Ian, ref back tool. I got the back tool holder and you're right, its brilliant. I didn't know what it was at first until I put it alongside the original tool holder and saw it was a bit taller. A good while later I twigged I needed to put the tool in inverted.
A pic of your dro in situ would be great. Digital Read Out ( I had to look that up too!) but that's what this is all about.

[boatmadman]

Here you go.


I have also included a pic of the diamond tool holder, another great bit of kit, easy to use, sharpen and set up. I now use it almost exclusively for straight turning, it gives great results.


Got mine here:


http://www.eccentricengineering.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=2&Itemid=17


Ian

[Circlip]

Just to clarify, "Spray" I referred to was the shower of fine swarf that's thrown off when turning Brass. Brass is also one of the few materials that don't need a coolant or lubrication when being turned, drilled, tapped or milled and NO top rake on cutting tools.
 
  Regards  Circlip (tother Ian.)

[Jerry C]

Thanks again Ian and Circlip. put a sheet of plasticard stuck to the motor and keeps the motor clean. As for the switch it seems to stay clean itself. Now I've seen the depth gauge in place I understand. Simple but as you say cheap but effective.
I ordered half a dozen center drills, should be here tomorrow so in the meantime carried on and made the spindle.

1) put a foot of 3/16" stainless steel in the chuck and faced off the end.
2) turned the first 1/4" down to 0.0865".
3) cut an 8 BA thread in it.
4) turned 2nd diameter down to 0.115" for 5/8".
5) turned 3rd diameter down to 5/32" for 3/8".
6) cut 5/32" x 40tpi thread.
7) parted off leaving a 90deg point on the end.

Nearly there.
Jerry.

[hammer]

Yes I noted the Tracey tools ( 6 mile from me ) catalogue in one of your photos. Although I use my lathe most days I am always looking for new tips, so I will be watching your excellent post. One of my projects below. Hammer

[derekwarner]

Yes Gerry C  ....watching with interest from afar......... 
hammar.....that's a funny looking paddle wheel arrangement  .......Derek

[hammer]

You should know me by now Derek, try any thing once. 

[Jerry C]

I love tinterweb. 6 center drills and (Cos I'm having issues with wandering drills and a little eccentricity) some stub drills arrived this a.m.
      So started on the valve wheel.
1)Faced off some 9/16 bar.
2)Turned 5/8" down to 1/2"
3)Center drill (spot only)
4)Drill for 8BA.
5)Tap hole 8BA.
6)Put Knurling tool into tool holder,offered wheels to c/l, wound them down until in contact with work, backed out slide, wound down 1 turn. wound the slide back in until left end of wheels made contact with work 1/8" from end of work. Switched on lathe on slowest speed, put plenty oil about. fed the slide in to c/l. wheels turning OK so fed the knurls up the work slowly until made contact with step, then backed out.
7) switched off and gave the work a wipe and RESULT, my first knurl.

I should add that while I was in the shed a'knurlin', I missed GB(Scotland) win the bronze a'curlin'!!! BZ Ladies!!!!

chamfered end with file.
9) removed top center with boring tool.
10)used parting tool to remove underneath to 3/16".
11) parted off leaving a 1/16" depth boss.

Final job on lathe was to make the separate outlet male union but forgot to take pics.

boiled the body and nozzle in washing up liquid, rinsed, dried fluxed and silver soldered in position. Again forgot to take a pic before I put it in to pickle. Tomorrow, OK?
Jerry.

[ooyah/2]

Next I made some collets.
1)fed 12" x 1/4" round bar through the chuck with 1" overhang. (too much overhang and things get noisy and juddery as tool force bends the stock off its axis). Faced off the end.
2) center drill the end.
3) drilled 5/32" for pipe.
4)turned down from 1/4" to 7/32" diameter.
5)Part off at 45deg for 1st one.
6)part off at 90deg for 2nd one
repeat as required.

I understand that this may be teaching lots of nanas to suck eggs but the idea is to show peeps, who may think they can't do it, my thought process and how I find things out and learn myself. Any constructive criticism, advice or safety comments are welcome.
I hope this thread will give peeps the push they need to get started.

I'm using a tiny, imperial, American lathe.I know it's not a Myford, or an Atlas etc. but it's what I've got.
Jerry.

Jerry,
As Ian has said ,machine brass dry, it saves having to clean and degrease before Silver soldering.

When you are making the ferules cut them at 30deg ( 60 deg included ) not 45 deg, as the center drills have a 30 deg angle and when you drill into the female part to take your pipe it is a better fit.

Also machine the O/All dia of the ferules to a tad under 7/32" as when tapping the holes in the nut the thread becomes a little proud and the ferule will not fit into the nut.

Well done with your little lathe.

George.

[Jerry C]

I had a great time with my daughter in Cardiff and at the Millennium Stadium watching Wales play France in the Six Nations series. Terrific atmosphere both inside and outside the stadium. Man those French guys know how to party!
   Anyway, back to the valve. I finished it last week but it leaked, so this morning I stripped it down, marked the pointy end of the spindle with magic marker, (I don't have marking blue) and then reassembled it and screwed the valve down before stripping it again and looking at the mark made in the ink. It's the eccentricity problem so I shipped the compound top slide and machined a more pointy point on the seating end of the spindle then using one of my new stub drills, re-cut the seat in the valve body. Then I put the body in the 3 jaw chuck and the spindle in the Jacobs chuck with a dab of fine grinding past on the seat of the spindle and gave the seat a quick grinding by hand. I gave everything a good clean, re-assembled valve and it's now tight and not passing.
    Back to the eccentricity problem, I suspect the tail stock or top slide is not quite right, so with this in mind I've ordered an imperial dial gauge and magnetic stand kit from Chronos because he's been very helpful to me over the phone in the past. I should have got one earlier I know but put it off. I'll have to get a small parallel test bar and also, for the milling vice, some small parallels.
Any way, after a long time and a quick polish using a 4" multi-metal polishing kit from Metal Polishing Supplies UK Ltd mounted on one end of my Aldi/Lidl Parkside 300watt 6" bench grinder, Its finished.
     I've also noticed I've got 4 thou backlash on the cross slide. I don't think it's a problem but can't see a way of removing the slop. The thread runs in a slotted brass bush attached to the underside of the slide. The slot gives the impression that it's possible to squeeze the block and thus tighten it up. That goes against the grain with me so, if anyone out there knows better, I'd be obliged if they'd tell me. Remember it's a Taig/Peatol lathe.
Jerry.