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[david48]

Hi Mark  have a look at the drawing that DM done for Mick Burke all the parts are there it's in Actions part of Component Shopweb site .
David

[hama]

What an outstanding paint job!! I could never, ever produce something like that. She will be a masterpiece once finished. Can't wait for the rest!
Hama

[Mark T]

Thanks David that diagram is great and thanks Hama too.  Its coming out OK but photo's do hide a lot if errors 

OK so onward with some more painting.  But first up - you guessed it more masking     Time to paint the blue blocks on the hull.  If I was doing this again I would paint the blue before the green.  It would have been so much easier to mask that way around.

Masking up



Then Painting (Rover Tahiti Blue)



Which turned out ok - It passes the 3 foot test anyway





I just could not resist naming the ship at this point.  I was going to leave it until all of the paint was on but my resolve faltered.  The rescue zone decal had to be cut into three parts due to the rubbing strips that I had fitted.  The decal was designed for a flat surface.







This was a real milestone for me in this build.  A ship with a name - simply magic 

[Mark T]

A bit more painting - This time the RED

As per usual loads of masking followed by degreasing and a tack cloth before shooting the paint.  Once again it was bit awkward getting around the props and korts but a bit of patience on my part and it went ok!  The colour used was "Seat Flash Red"











I was pretty pleased with the way this turned out - It proved to me that all of the hours of prep work were worth the effort 







Thanks for looking - Mark

[Stavros]

Mark that looks superb I would put my name to that paint job with no problems
....as I have allways advocated Preparation is the KEY to ANY PAINT job.....attention to detail with Masking like what you have done is the way to go,this is without a shadow of a doubt.Keep up the good work.
 
 
Dave

[Mark T]

Mark that looks superb I would put my name to that paint job with no problems
....as I have allways advocated Preparation is the KEY to ANY PAINT job.....attention to detail with Masking like what you have done is the way to go,this is without a shadow of a doubt.Keep up the good work.
 
 
Dave

Crikey - Thanks Dave in more ways than one.  Back in May via PM you gave me some excellent advice regarding paint and I guess this is the result.  I really can't thank you enough for that help 

[Stavros]

AH HA another Pupil of Mine I like it 
 
 
Dave.....who's head is now far to big for his hat

[Mark T]

Just a little update - Now I know that this is definitely not part of either the kit or original ship, but I decided that it would look better with a white waterline.

This was just personal choice but for some reason I just didn't like the transfer from green to red, it was just a bit severe and I wanted to break it up a bit.

Now there was a bit of an issue of a step on the paint between the two colours so this had to be sanded down.  Well it should of but I lost my bottle after giving it a slight rub down.  Therefore there is a slight line in the white but nothing I can't live with.  I just could not bring myself to rub the join in the paint down any further

Same procedure as before but the whole boat had to be masked for such a little job!  You can't beat cut up bin liners for this job 









Note to self - Let the paint dry a bit more before removing the tape.  Fortunately these marks were very easily removed but I forgot to take photos but it does look a lot better 






I think it looks nice like this and I hope you do too - I'm sure I'll find out in a minute 


Oh and if anyone knows how to spray joints without getting a line can you please give me some advice - Thanks Mark

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

I do like that.  Well done indeed.   

Cheers

Ken

[Mark T]

I do like that.  Well done indeed.   

Cheers

Ken

Thanks Ken for your kind comment     I do like the result but I know many modellers really like being true to the original which is why I was a bit worried about posting this part of the build.

[david48]

Hi Mark the White boot topping line looks good ,there is a trick on  here somewhere about rubbing down the join line with a finger or thumb Stavros will know . I think it will take a lot of nerve to rub in the join an the paint that has not quite dryed .
All the best and a happy new year .
David

[Mark T]

Hi Mark the White boot topping line looks good ,there is a trick on  here somewhere about rubbing down the join line with a finger or thumb Stavros will know . I think it will take a lot of nerve to rub in the join an the paint that has not quite dryed .
All the best and a happy new year .
David

Hi David I did read about that some where but I can't remember where     In all honesty I do not think that I would even try that mainly due to my lack of experience with paint.  I just had too much to loose!  Happy new year to you mate :)

[Mark T]

Time to paint the stern roller - In hind sight I would have liked to have made this working and I over blended that back with a bit too much sanding.  So the paint will have to bring it out

Masking up



The result





And then to break it up a bit I edged it with the same blue that I used on the hull







Thanks for looking - Mark

[Shanew79]

Hi Mark,
The boat is looking fantastic so far. I'm new to the forum and am just about to start building one of these. I'm a little bit like you in that I haven't built boats before but I have built some aircraft in my time. I keen to now if you intend to convert it to RC or is it going to be static. I'm really keen to RC mine but am looking for some advice on what motors etc. to use! You're doing a great job with the thread, keep it coming.

[Mark T]

Hi Shanew79 welcome to the forum you will certainly find a lot of help here, I know that I have     Thanks also for your kind comments on my build 

I am setting up for RC which is why I have swapped the supplied propshafts with Raboaesh items and also installed the bow thruster, different korts and altered the rear deck to make it water tight.  I have decided to use MFA geared motors on my build but this is not the only way to go.  There is another member David48 who I believe is using a pair of 740 motors in his Fairmount build.  There are many options open to you and I guess its personal choice.  I'll try and add as many part numbers as I can as my build progresses but if you need to know anything sooner drop me a PM and I'll do my best to help. 

Good luck with your build and get some photo's of it up on here 

[bassplayer1]

Great work !!! She's looking really good!!!

[Shanew79]

Thanks for the Welcome Mark, from my experience I've found these types of Forums very helpful in the past and I expect no different here. Great to here you are going the RC option, I think this boat would look fantastic on the water, especially with all the bells and whistles on it operational. Been looking at the Action Electronics gear, looks to be good stuff? I think the geared motors will be great with some nice big scale props. Look forward to seeing your progress in the future. As soon as I'm underway with mine I'll post some pics.
Cheers

Shane

[Mark T]

Great work !!! She's looking really good!!!

Thanks bassplayer1 

Thanks for the Welcome Mark, from my experience I've found these types of Forums very helpful in the past and I expect no different here. Great to here you are going the RC option, I think this boat would look fantastic on the water, especially with all the bells and whistles on it operational. Been looking at the Action Electronics gear, looks to be good stuff? I think the geared motors will be great with some nice big scale props. Look forward to seeing your progress in the future. As soon as I'm underway with mine I'll post some pics.
Cheers

Shane

I'm also going to be using Action Electronics Shane - In fact all of the Fairmount builds that I have seen have used them too.  I'm going to have working fire tenders and lights; and maybe sound I'm not sure about this yet - Mark

[Shanew79]

Sounds Great Mark, I've just been researching a supplier for Action Electronics and Raboesch products here in Australia. So that should keep the shipping costs down.

Cheers

Shane

[inertia]

Shane
Now that John Darke has retired I don't think you can buy ACTion items from an Australian agent, but Component Shop (who now make the stuff) will supply world-wide. Electronics are not large-volume items so the shipping costs are surprisingly low e.g. £15 for a 1Kg, £250-insured Airmail, tracked parcel. http://www.componentshop.co.uk/shipping/  I would suggest initial contact via E-Mail to make sure you get a VAT-Exclusive price!
Let me know if you need any changes to the published Fairmount Alpine wiring diagrams.
Dave M

[david48]

Hi Mark
I have put two 720BB Graupner torque motors in my build. Going to use SLA batteries I made up dummy ones out of timber so I could see what room there is . Useing DM drawing I have not gone down the fire monitor route . In the kit it is a piece of ally rod for the monitor pipe work ,instead I used plastic . Buy the quality of your work you will work it out its a bit complicated where the pipe comes through the railings ,again it's order of work . Send me PM and Tel no and I will have a crak with you.
David48

[david48]

Hi Inertia
I Am thinking of putting in a cooling fan on my build of Fairmount and trying to control it with temp sensor useing the Alpine drawings would this be possible ? If so how would I go about it ,controlling the fan so it is not on all the time only on a temp rise and cuts of when it cools . There is a lot in the hull and the heat sinks  I suspect will need something to dissipate the heat . I know I will have to alter the superstructure to get air flow so the fan is not just moveing the hot air about . If all this takes up too much room it might be a none starter. If there was another battery solution instead of the two the 12v 9amph that would give me more room but I then would need more lead as ballast
Thank you again for your help
David48

[inertia]

If you are using 720 Torque motors (or similar spec) on 12v with a P94 then you will find that maybe after about a day's continuous running at full throttle you might just be able to feel a tiny amount of warmth on the heat-sinks. In other words don't waste you time worrying about it - it will not be a problem. A fan connected through a thermostat would be a pain in the backside to set up and adjust, especially as the rise in internal temperature would be so small and slow. Just vent the funnels to air if it makes you feel better and you'll be doing more than enough.
As regards the batteries, you trade off weight and size against duration. The 720 motors take very little current and unless you are running a lot of lights, a sound system and fire monitors etc then smaller-capacity batteries would be fine. I would personally use a 9AH 12v SLA battery for the motors and a smaller NiMH pack for the auxiliary functions - say 10 x Sub-C or even AA cells, depending on exactly what functions you have fitted.
Dave M

[Mark T]

Hi Dave M - I am going to use 2 gel 12v batteries mainly as a simple way of ballasting the hull but also because it will run all day without a charge.  What I want to do though is set up a charging system through 1 plug that can also work without disconnecting the batteries from any of the systems in the boat.  Would you be able to give me any advice regarding how to go about this?  Thanks Mark

[cos918]

Mark may i give you another idea.
A 12v 7ah bat weighs about 2.5kg . A 3s 11.1v 5ah hard case weighs about 320g. My ferry is powerd by x2 720 bb torque motors. Like it has been said they pull naff amps. so a 5ah bat will last a very long time . Here is the good bit . with lead sheet you can get it down very low in the hull a lot lower than a 7ah bat. This will make your boat more stable . If your 7ah bat is fitted so the terminals are at the top,then the top of bat will be above the water line . It was like this in my ferry. I noticed a bit improvment in stability by swaping from x2 12v 7ah bat to a 3s lipo and lead sheet.

john