Topic: HMS Ready Build (Read 50151 times)

ballastanksian · « **Reply #100 on:** June 14, 2017, 10:48:18 pm »

I used an Arrow head sculpting tool both to impress the crosses and pull the edges back to get a more worn look.

I look forward to see your mats Nick.

derekwarner · « **Reply #101 on:** June 15, 2017, 12:08:38 am »

Yes Ian, those Kapoc filled splinter bags look very realistic indeed

.......I am assuming that you will leave them as that drab olive canvas tone

Derek

tonyH · « **Reply #102 on:** June 15, 2017, 09:01:59 am »

Hi Ian,

There may not be a switch since it was possibly an arc lamp, so there would have been positive and negative feeds. This may be of help. http://www.hnsa.org/resources/manuals-documents/single-topic/24-inch-searchlight-model-24-g-20-spec-17s21/

Tony

ballastanksian · « **Reply #103 on:** June 15, 2017, 08:10:26 pm »

Blooming heck, all that machinery to provide illumination! It is more complex than an artillery piece

Thanks for that information Tony. It does give me an idea of what gubbins to put on the model.

Regards the splinter mats, I will probably painthem in a thin coat of grey so the original colour shows through just to add depth and show they belong to the navy!

tonyH · « **Reply #104 on:** June 15, 2017, 10:26:43 pm »

Hi Ian, it should have been a simpler version but the principle was the same.
If you get to see Bob K's model of Descartes, there were 4 remotely controlled searchlights on her, one being behind doors on the bow. Each had a control tower, either on deck or even on the top of the citadel, with a small director table (looking like a binnacle) and a lever control.
I can let you have the wiring diagram if you want

Have fun!

Tony

ballastanksian · « **Reply #105 on:** June 15, 2017, 10:42:57 pm »

Thanks for the heads up Tony. I will study the pictures of Descartes in a moment. Regarding wiring, I don't think I will go quite that deep into the detail as she is not a 100% accurate model of the class, so I will make her pretty and pleasing before moving on to other models.

Bob K · « **Reply #106 on:** June 16, 2017, 08:55:54 am »

This beautiful model was built by TonyH, and is now sailed regularly by myself. Some of you will have seen Descartes at Wicksteed Park.

Hopefully the above photo will reasonably show one of the searchlights and it's controlling bandstand.

ballastanksian · « **Reply #107 on:** June 16, 2017, 09:09:11 pm »

I can see a vertical thing behind the searhlight and assume it is a conduit or similar.

Thanks for your help chaps:O) I fitted all the portholes in the hull this week using my new porthole-rigol castings.

Pictures to follow. M19 gets glazed next week.....

ballastanksian · « **Reply #108 on:** July 13, 2017, 09:18:46 pm »

Good evening,

I recently did some more work on the destroyer including a new weapon.

Early M class had two 2pounder Pompoms mounted beside the wheel house; one on each side. So I whittled one out of styrene and moulded it. I now have enough for the destroyer, and eventually a Big gun monitor, which had one of these and a HA 3 pounder on the back of the foredeck.

Later the bandstand for the stern searchlight was converted to mount a single Pompom replacing the two astride the wheelhouse. This was done as part of a greater refit, though as with all classes of warship, ships differed in detail.

I will pop images up of the guns when built.

ballastanksian · « **Reply #109 on:** August 12, 2017, 06:18:15 pm »

I am getting there slowly!

I checked the electrics over and she is ready for her test sail tomorrow. I then decided to start the quarter deck.

I made one from Styrene, but it was a bit flimsy given that it would have mots of details on it and be required to lift off occasionally, so worried that it might shed bits from time to time, I decided to make one from 3.2mm ply. I already had the blank cut out that was to become the deckwale, but decided that this should be styrene so that I could weld it firmly to the hull making a box girder.

The camber was created with the Japanese file and sandpaper. It was then painted with several layers of thinned dope and a neat layer.

The superstructure was made from 1mm styrene with internal supports to strengthen it and then pieces of 6mm ply were epoxied in for two reasons.
1. To provide places where glue could be applied to help fix the superstructure to the deck.
2. To provide places to drill through and mount things like the mast and also a combination Torpedo tube mount/deck fastner.

A small section of the deck was cut off and glued to the hull along with a section of the superstructure that was filled with ply and glued to the deck.

Once cured, the deck was put in place and the superstructure glued onto it matching with the small section forward.

You can see the section of deck now clad in .25m styrene representing the deck covering, which while not haphazard, was certainly added in large patches which will be represented on the deck.

More soon

Bob K · « **Reply #110 on:** August 12, 2017, 08:09:40 pm »

Coming along very nicely sir

Getting close to when you can install some of those well detailed sub assemblies.

raflaunches · « **Reply #111 on:** August 12, 2017, 08:19:01 pm »

I concur, lovely deck work

Such love and care has gone into getting that curvature.

ballastanksian · « **Reply #112 on:** August 24, 2017, 08:44:16 pm »

Evening all.

I have clad the quarter deck with .25mm styrene to represent the plating.

The plating has a partial logical and haphazard look to mit, so I added a patch here and there to make it look more interesting.

Then I started what is to me the oddest structure on the Destroyers of this period. I would describe it as a pill box or ottoman with screw down catches for a hinged lid and a tubular frame on the front. In an image it shows an erectable jack mounted on this frame supporting an oil pipe that seems to descend into the pillbox. Ironically, the destroyer is making smoke at this time, so am not sure if they are testing systems, have a temporary fuel tank on board, or are in the midst of taking on oil when an enemy unit was sighted.

Mine is made from 1mm and .5mm styrene sheet, with beading and catches made from half round strip and T profile plastruct.

The frame was made from a length of iron wire and a piece of C channel brass solderd on.

I have now mastered the solder paste (I think) as I had to cut the soldered assembly from the length of brass without the joint failing and it didn't

Here it is on the superstructure.

Next up, I will build a couple of cradles for the carly floats, a couple of cupboards (possibly food safes?) and a Maxim and pintle to sit on the air intakes.

ballastanksian · « **Reply #113 on:** August 26, 2017, 05:23:27 pm »

How do?

I made the cradles that hold dinghies above the air intakes today from styrene. There seem to be various designs of holding system suggesting that these were designed and made individually by each ship's crew. Some look quite flimsy. The Dinghies are from J R Haynes.

Mine sits lower than others and so means I do not need to make much else for this area on the Destroyer.

Being daft, I realised I had made the slots in the cross trees that hold the long parts were on the wrong side, so I had to cut the ends off and place them at the upper edge. This does add the little raised bit I was going to add at the same time.

More soon.

Bob K · « **Reply #114 on:** August 26, 2017, 08:46:40 pm »

The cradles look very well produced Ian. This ship is going to look really good.
I must admit I do prefer working in styrene, especially the detail stuff.

raflaunches · « **Reply #115 on:** August 27, 2017, 11:08:02 am »

Very smart styrene work Ian.

I've just bought a load of styrene sheet, rod, I-beams, etc for my build in preparation for my detail work.
Keep up the good work.

ballastanksian · « **Reply #116 on:** December 08, 2017, 08:51:04 pm »

Again, engage your imagination as the camera has died

I am working on the masts, and like M19, they will be made from brass rod and tube and fancy bits from Copper sheet (Because I have it and it is nice to cut with a piercing saw).

The Foremast comprises a lower section from tube, and a 'Gallant' (I suppose) stepped with two copper collars. The lower collar incorporates the eyes for mast stays, while the upper one has two eyes to control the lower signal yard.

A question:

With her being a little sluggish using 3x 20mm props powered by a 7.2 volt NIMH, would she be faster with 3x 25mm props or would I be better upping the volts?

radiojoe · « **Reply #117 on:** December 08, 2017, 09:16:17 pm »

Hi Ian, I hope you have a new camera on your Christmas list along with some Hobnobs.

I would think larger props would give a little more speed but ultimately more revolutions would better, so more voltage if your ESC will take it.

Joe

ballastanksian · « **Reply #118 on:** December 09, 2017, 11:57:20 am »

Thanks for the tip. I will obtain a new box brownie of some sort soon!

ballastanksian · « **Reply #119 on:** December 16, 2017, 09:15:33 pm »

I hope a camera of some sort will materialise around Christmas, but to keep you in the picture

I soldered the main mast parts together.

I found that solder paste will fix bigger things if you use more! I had to solder the mast cap into the top of the mast and so slavered it in paste, stuck it in the hole and waved a gas torch at it with successful results.

My initial worry about wasting it was offset by fellow Mayhemers observing that it goes off, so I thought it better to slightly over use than throw half pots away.

Off to Sussex for Christmas now where I will pick up lots of brass rod.

ballastanksian · « **Reply #120 on:** January 03, 2018, 10:52:11 pm »

Evenin all'.

Here are pictures of the mast under construction. I had already soldered the main parts together before the camera came alive so hopefully these pictures will show the shape of the parts.

The mast had a pair of legs supporting the mast so I made a plate with holes for these and the lower mast and soldered this on.

Above this was soldered a plate with five holes. One for the mast and four eyes for stays to be tied onto.

Between this and the upper support plate, the lower yard was fitted using a strap made from .3mm scrap etch cut and drilled to accomodate the mast and the yard.

The upper support plate was designed to mount the tackle controlling the lower yard and thus, it had two eyes as well as the hole for the mast.

You can see the nail head I used for the top of the mast. There should be enough soler paste to fix it in place as it didn't wiggle after it had cooled.

Finally, the whole mast as it stands to date. There more bits to add such as rings for the signalling gear and aerials.

More soon....

warspite · « **Reply #121 on:** January 04, 2018, 11:22:27 am »

Have you accounted for this top weight, when I did Soveriegn, I did not realise that even though the brass masts weighed very little, that this weight has a massive effect on the above water weight.

raflaunches · « **Reply #122 on:** January 04, 2018, 05:30:42 pm »

Lovely soldering work you've displayed here Ian. I'm looking forward to soldering my masts too. Got some good ideas from your layout of how the yardarms and spars are fitted on smaller vessels.

ballastanksian · « **Reply #123 on:** January 04, 2018, 08:20:54 pm »

Hi Warspite, I am sort of winging it and will make up any top weight with a bit of ballast. The mast will not have much more added to it so should not weigh too much. I can imagine that the top hamper of a capital ship weighs in proportion to the ship's size especially as the navy adds more and more to them. Those Pagoda masts the IJN adopted weigned loads didn't they?

Hi Nick, My idea was to save complexity by combining jobs within components, so while in the right place on the masts, and doing what they are meant to do, the parts might not be accurate. I know you will do more research than me and so your result should be a good mix of accuracy and utility.

radiojoe · « **Reply #124 on:** January 04, 2018, 08:41:42 pm »

Hi Ian, neat work on the mast I do like the solder paste but as you say it dose get thicker once opened, I had to throw a bit away that got too hard to use after about ten months, I'm guessing it must be due to being open to the air because I opened another pot I bought the same time as the one I binned and it was good as new, but even with a bit of waste it's great stuff.

Joe

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Author Topic: HMS Ready Build (Read 50151 times)