Topic: MMM Portgarth build (Read 463886 times)

Taranis · « **Reply #1250 on:** May 01, 2020, 10:10:18 am »

Hi Peter
The superstructure I used Rover Arum white
The hull is Renault royal blue
The deck and lower hull are red primer and everything over coated with satin lacquer
As far as I know all are still available from Halfords online for click and collect at a store near you.

Glad you found my thread useful

Fazer · « **Reply #1251 on:** May 01, 2020, 08:29:01 pm »

Hi Andy
Thank you for taking the time to reply to my query regarding paint colour. Unfortunately I am having a problem finding the Renault Royal Blue from Halfords. When I search it only comes up with Renault Extreme Blue. Is this the same colour?
Sorry to have to get back to you but your advice appreciated.
Peter

Taranis · « **Reply #1252 on:** May 01, 2020, 09:11:43 pm »

Looks like it is yet one more colour they have discontinued

There are other royal blues but significantly different

Actually google does come across it at £3 which is a sure sign remaining stock was cleared
They did this last week with Ford balliol blue

coch y bonddu · « **Reply #1253 on:** May 01, 2020, 09:43:56 pm »

Renault extreme blue is a perlesant paint in other words a metallic and is not at all the same

Dave

coch y bonddu · « **Reply #1254 on:** May 01, 2020, 09:44:42 pm »

do an ebay search plenty of places that will do a mix up for you

Dave

coch y bonddu · « **Reply #1255 on:** May 01, 2020, 09:48:15 pm »

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RENAULT-400ml-Car-Paint-Aerosol-ROYAL-BLUE-460/221131937526?hash=item337c7d96f6:g:MxcAAOSwA2hZvvhi

You would have to ask them if this is a base coat which will need a laquer over it or a gloss one

Dave

Fazer · « **Reply #1256 on:** May 01, 2020, 10:13:19 pm »

I think that the paint on Ebay is a base coat. Could this be used and then sprayed with Halfords satin lacquer?

coch y bonddu · « **Reply #1257 on:** May 01, 2020, 10:14:58 pm »

cant see why not

Dave

Taranis · « **Reply #1258 on:** May 01, 2020, 10:16:18 pm »

Sorted

Glad I kept some stock

RST · « **Reply #1259 on:** May 02, 2020, 12:04:40 am »

Quote

You would have to ask them if this is a base coat which will need a laquer over it or a gloss on

..gosh that takes me back a bit. My first MR2 had a flat base coat applied by factory before assembly before body colour appied on exterior panels (engine bay, boot ec etc). What a nightmare it was to get base coat match to try and repair some bits as there never was a colour code and nobody had a scanner with long enough lead to reach the car!! Aquaramarine metallic on top of an unmatchable base just added insult to injury, there were something like 12 shades of aquaramarine in the same paint code. Base coat for me means a little different I guess

Fazer · « **Reply #1260 on:** May 02, 2020, 07:49:54 am »

Renault Royal Blue ordered on Ebay. Thanks everybody for your help, stay safe
Peter

Fazer · « **Reply #1261 on:** May 31, 2020, 01:18:51 pm »

Please could you give me some advice regarding the building of the brass mast for my Mobile Marine Models Afon Alaw. When you built your mast and railings, which were to a very high standard, was the soldering done using soft solder or silver solder. My only experience with silver solder is fitting nipples on copper pipe on my steam loco. I would suspect that if I try this on thin tubing the very high temperature would melt the brass. Once again your advice would be appreciated.
Peter

Southern Sailor · « **Reply #1262 on:** May 31, 2020, 03:01:59 pm »

Hi Peter. I used soft solder. I don't think silver solder is necessary on this application, but then I am not an expert. Soft solder is more than strong enough. Brian

Taranis · « **Reply #1263 on:** May 31, 2020, 03:06:55 pm »

All my soldering is lead free solder I use a temperature adjustable iron on max 480 degrees and control my solder with duration of contact.
Non of my soldering has ever broken except in a crash and there are far more delicate items on scale models to break for those who are careless. Use a flux paste in the joint and make sure parts are clean before proceeding. I spend a lot of time with needle files shaping each finished joint to my satisfaction. If doing multiple solders like with railings don't worry if they are not straight and square first go but just keep going as once all the joints are done it becomes self supporting so easy then to re adjust ones that were not perfect.
Masking tape is perfect for holding parts it withstands the heat no problem

Fazer · « **Reply #1264 on:** May 31, 2020, 03:37:53 pm »

Thanks for all your great and detailed advice to a newbie and it is reassuring to know that soft solder has adequate strength for the mast of my tug.

All your help is appreciated, especially the very prompt replies.

Peter

Taranis · « **Reply #1265 on:** May 31, 2020, 04:44:16 pm »

Anytime Peter

Afon Alaw is a nice boat

Hande · « **Reply #1266 on:** June 03, 2020, 06:22:07 am »

Quote from: Taranis on May 31, 2020, 03:06:55 pm

All my soldering is lead free solder I use a temperature adjustable iron on max 480 degrees and control my solder with duration of contact.
Non of my soldering has ever broken except in a crash and there are far more delicate items on scale models to break for those who are careless. Use a flux paste in the joint and make sure parts are clean before proceeding. I spend a lot of time with needle files shaping each finished joint to my satisfaction. If doing multiple solders like with railings don't worry if they are not straight and square first go but just keep going as once all the joints are done it becomes self supporting so easy then to re adjust ones that were not perfect.
Masking tape is perfect for holding parts it withstands the heat no problem

Thank you again, Taranis! I, too, will savour this nutshell. I still have the dreaded railings waiting in 30cm long pieces... Hande

Southern Sailor · « **Reply #1267 on:** June 03, 2020, 11:33:48 am »

Peter, hand railings are always daunting until you get into them. If the railings have been bent on a decent jig and are all the same they go well and are such a rewarding job when finished. I think a secret is to make sure each rail is bent true to the jig. Good preparation - good result. Enjoy. Brian

Fazer · « **Reply #1268 on:** June 03, 2020, 12:09:11 pm »

Thanks Brian. I think that it will be an interesting challenge doing the railings so your advice appreciated and I shall look at making a jig to ensure that I create consistent bends. It is the attention to detail that pays rewards on the finished model.

Regards
Peter

Southern Sailor · « **Reply #1269 on:** June 03, 2020, 01:36:17 pm »

Peter, you will obviously develop your own techniques, but I place a mark at the beginning of every curve and then grip the rail at that point every time or place the centre of the round former at that point every time I bend a rail. That way you get a bend in the rail that corresponds to each of the other rails in the railing. Are you using round or flat stanchions? I am still to develop a technique to manufacture round stanchions for myself. Any ideas? Cheers. Brian

Fazer · « **Reply #1270 on:** June 05, 2020, 01:56:58 pm »

Andy, sorry to come back with another question. I am now about to start painting the wooden upper structure however from my research I may have a problem with the Sanding Sealer that I have bought. There appears to be a potential chemical reaction to using Acrylic paint on top of Cellulose Sanding Sealer that could cause crazing of the top coat. Having been through your build log you indicate that you used Sanding Sealer and the Halfords Acrylic car paint. Was your SandIng Sealer water or Cellulose based? Are there any risks in what I am trying to do as I would hate to ruin what has been weeks of hard work.
Again any advice appreciated.
Peter

Taranis · « **Reply #1271 on:** June 05, 2020, 02:51:53 pm »

Pretty certain it was cellulose
Best test on a scrap of wood or use acrylic lacquer to fill grain
Will need just as many coats and just as much sanding

Fazer · « **Reply #1272 on:** June 06, 2020, 12:13:50 pm »

Once again thanks for your advice Andy, always appreciated.
Peter

Barras · « **Reply #1273 on:** February 19, 2021, 12:17:24 pm »

Thank you to all who have contributed tho this blog.
Without it i would not have had the courage to start the Portgarth.
Portgarth is my second build, having just completed the Rotterdam.

Is there ayone out there starting or in the early stages of the build?

regards
Ian

Taranis · « **Reply #1274 on:** February 19, 2021, 12:29:46 pm »

I used everything I learned building this on my current build with new methods and materials.
This will offer you the option of alternative ways.
https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,62247.75.html

Edit I've just twigged who you are. Welcome to the forum Ian

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Author Topic: MMM Portgarth build (Read 463886 times)

RST